• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.38-50
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• 2005

A chronological classification of Sangbok(상복) and Sibok(시복) for officers in Joseon Dynasty is proposed in this paper. The classification results in four distinct periods according to the usage of Sangbok and Sibok as well as their colers and naming: 1) the mixed usage period, 2) the usage-differentiation period, 3) the name-differentiation period, and 4) name-reversal period. During the mixed usage period which lasted until the early 15th century, Sangbok and Sibok were used with no distinction. In the usage-differentiation period, the King Sejong first made a regulation on the use of colors of Dal-lyung according to the occasion and black colored uniforms were used only for daily cabinet meetings. In the 16th century, the names of Sangbok and Sibok began to be used distinctively: Sangbok for formal clothing in black color and Sibok for ordinary clothing in pink color This period is defined as the name-differentiation period in this paper. In the name-reversal period f·hick begun around the 17th century, the usages as well as the colors of Sangbok and Sibok are totally reversed because of some confusions of the understanding on the previous government publications. However, the distinction of formal clothing and ordinary clothing remained.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.71-82
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to examine Sibok of king and prince in Choson dynasty. In the first half of Choson the official uniform was not established. Sibok was worn for expediency. so there is a difference between Shillok and Gukzooraeyi Sibok in Shillok but Sangbok Chobok, Myounbok in Gukzooraeyi as the costume of same ceremony. But we can recognize that king 'Sibok' in that process took the place of Gongbok of Korea dynasty and was beyond simple working uniform though it was degraded than Gongbok Chobok, Myounbok. In the latter half of Choson the number of appearance of Sibok in Shillok was largely decreased in addition to is in interpretation of Sibok it was regarded as Sangbok Especially prince Sibok in a coming-of-age ceremony was regarded as an ordinary dress.

• 프린팅코리아
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• v.10 no.8
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• pp.118-119
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• 2011

돈보스코는 이탈리아 출신의 로마 가톨릭 신부였다. 살레시오 수도회를 창설하고 평생을 어린이와 청소년 교육에 헌신하였다. 1929년 교황 비오 11세가 복자로 시복하였고, 1934년 4월 1일에 비오 11세에 의해 성인으로 선포되었다. 청소년들을 위해서 헌신한 그의 생애는 이탈리아 영화<돈 보스코>로 만들어지기도 할 정도로 많은 사람들의 존경을 받고 있다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.7
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• pp.767-777
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• 2012

This study analyzed the system and arguments on the light-pink official uniforms and investigated the backgrounds and principles on the changes of the Sibok system. A study on light-pink danryeong in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty is a de facto study on Sibok since the name of the light-pink official uniforms (implemented at the time of King Seonjo) changed from Sangbok to Sibok. Sangbok is discussed to explain the name change from Sangbok to Sibok and distinguish their usages; in addition, Gongbok is examined to understand the characteristics of the Sibok system. The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty (books written by scholars) and related laws are used as research materials. The research results are as follows. The name of the light-pink uniforms (a custom before the Japanese invasion in 1592) changed from Sangbok to Sibok at the time of King Gwanghaegun and the light-pink uniform was used as a relatively light formal uniform compared to Sangbok. Sibok was added to the law Sok-dae-jeon at the time of King Yeongjo (because the king respected the custom) and its color rank system was denoted from light-pink and red. Sibok was revised to light-pink, blue, and green under the law Dae-jeon-tong-pyeon that was promulgated at time of King Jeongjo. In the development of the Sibok system in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty, the color rank system of Gongbok was reflected. The sovereign ideas in the official uniforms in the latter part of the Joseon Dynasty (revealed in the study of the system and arguments on the light-pink official uniforms) were the thoughts that respected the custom and the principles that distinguish ranks to establish a Confucian based hierarchy.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.112-122
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• 2007

This study reviewed the costume mainly on the Joseon Giroyondo(耆老宴圖) between 17th 18th Century. In Joseon Dynasty, they produced paintings to commemorate the meeting of Girohwe(耆老會), namely Giroyon(耆老宴); this painting is Giroyondo. The feature of Giroyon depended on political purpose and social phenomenon. Therefore, the composition of figures in Giroyondo and their costume were seen differently. By its character, Giroyondo was classified into official one from Giroso(耆老所), private one arranged by the participants and Court Giroyon(宮中腸宴圖). People figured in Giroyondo are roughly divided into costume in Girosin(耆老臣) officials and minor officials. Girosin officials wore Hongdalyong(紅團領) and Samo(紗帽) in official Giroyondo while they wore Hungnib(黑笠.) and Jingnyong(直領) in private Giroyondo. In Court Giroyon, which was for classy and formal Court event, they wore Dalyong(團領) and Samo but in colors of blue and green. Minor officials were observed in two categories; those who wore Samo and Gakdae(角帶), and those in Dugeon(頭巾). However, they were not showed up in private Giroyondo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.121-135
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• 2003

This paper is about the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty, just before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, through painting-Kiyeonghoido. In the Chosun period, dress styles played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The most remarkable signs of social standing are the hair ornaments. Officials in ranks, noksas, and seoris are wearing a same, a yugakpyeongjeongeon and a mugakpyeongjeongeon respectively. The head ornament for musicians in high ranks is a samo, and, for those in low ranks a hood or a heuklip. Accordingly, head ornaments were important articles among apparels, and especially ripja was an article that sensitively reflected the contemporary fashion. Such a trend also influenced the common people's styles of dress. Thus, the style of the heuklip worn by the chamberlain in Kiyeonghoido resembled of yangban's. Actual official uniforms also diverged from the specifications for them. Sangboks were red for both dangsanggwans and danghagwans, but their ranks were marked by the material of their dress rather than by the breast plates. Dress styles change over time as the society members influence and are influenced by each other. Therefore, owing to the social characteristics of a hierarchical society, dress styles are distinctive according to the wearers' social standings and roles, and various dress styles emerge that deviate from regulations. The significance of the present paper is to review the diversity of the dress styles during the 16th century of the Chosun dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.10
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• pp.99-111
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• 2007

This paper was built by following next steps. First, based on the records of the Tongshinsa, the official diplomatic mission Joseon dispatched to Japan, the actual conditions of wearing a Danryung, a official robe, in the 18th century were researched. Then the difference of wearing state between the missions - in 1719, 1748 and 1764- was found and the reason why was analyzed. In result two distinctions were found: 1) A black Danryung was worn in 1719 at the banquets and while receiving an official letter of reply, but a red Danryung, Gongbok or Sibok on the later trips. 2) In 1764 travel records there was some confusion of the names Gongbok and Sibok, which denote the same item of robes, according to the writer. The reason why those changes and confusion were caused is analyzed as follows: 1) After the Japanese Invasion(1592) and the Manchu Invasion of Joseon(1636), a black Danryung replaced the Gongbok for a while. But after the mid-18th century, when the Gongbok was revived, that was reappeared in the official ceremonies. 2) In the mid-18th century, both Gongbok and Sibok system had been revised. But because both color system was similar, those revision became a cause of confusion between Gongbok and Sibok. For a while all ministers wore red Gongbok and Sibok, but after those revision the color of official's robe was changed by officials' rank: the higher ranking officials' Gongbok and Sibok are red, the lower ranking officials' are bluish green.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

In the early Joseon dynasty, the meritorious vassals' portrait of Jeokgae (1467, 1476), Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507), and Wisa (1545) were defined as the 2^nd period of the official uniform, in which the acheongsaek HeukDanryung appeared and settled. A total of seven portraits were analyzed, including three portraits of Jeokgae (1467, portrait production 1476) Son-so, Oh Jachi, and Jang Malson, and four portraits of Jeongguk (1506)·Jeongnan (1507) Yoo Sunjung, Hong Gyeongju, Lee Woo, and Yoo Hong. In the portrait of the Jeokgae wearing a Yebok HeukDanryung, in the case of the Samo, the height of the Samo, which had been raised at the beginning of King Seongjong, was lowered again, and the parietal part was rounded. The pattern was not expressed on the wide oval side wings of the Samo. In addition, the pattern was not expressed on the acheongsaek Danryung, Dapho, and Cheolrik. The colors of Dapho and Cheolrik were unified in green and red, respectively. The Mu of Danryung and Dapho was expressed as 'in and out wrinkled Mu', and the shoes were expressed in Baekhwa. Another feature is that the Jeokgae's portrait is expressed not as the Pumgye at the time of appointment, but as the Pumgye of the portrait production time. In the portrait of the Jeongguk·Jeongnan wearing a Sibok HeukDanryung, the height of the Samo lowered from the Jeokgae was maintained, while the parietal part was slightly narrowed and bent forward. The side wings of the Samo were expressed as an oval with a uniform width, and still the pattern was not expressed on the side wings. The pattern was not expressed in the costume of the Danghagwan's portrait, but the cloud pattern began to be expressed in the costume of the Dangsanggwan's portrait. And the Danryung was expressed as single Danryung without lining. In the portrait of Dangsang, the red Dapho and green Cheolrik were expressed, and in the portrait of Dangha, the green Dapho and blue Cheolrik were expressed. Therefore, it was found that the color of the undergarment was distinguished according to the Dangsang and Dangha. In Danryung and Dapho, the 'in and out wrinkled Mu' were maintained. The shoes were expressed in Heukhwa, and the rank badge and rank belt reflect the Pumgye at the time of the appointment. On the other hand, the portrait of Wisa could not be confirmed, but through the recording painting of the reign of King Meongjong, it was found that it was similar to the Danryung system of the reign of King Jungjong. Through the 2^nd period of the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeokgae, it was confirmed that the HeukDanryung outfit began to be used as the official uniform of the meritorious vassal's portrait, and that the Pumgye of the portrait production time was reflected in the portrait. After the meritorious vassal's portrait of Jeongguk, the pattern began to be expressed in the costumes, and in particular, it was possible to distinguish Dasang and Dangha by the presence or absence of the HeukDanryung's pattern. In addition, it was confirmed that the expressed aspect of the official uniform was consistent with the practices and regulations at the time.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.200-221
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• 2019

The National Hangeul Museum houses a document list of the wedding gifts that Queen Sunwon granted her royal son-in-law, Nam Nyeong-wie, in August 1837. A total of 55 items were recorded in Hangeul Gungseo style on yellow paper. This list included four types of government officials' uniforms, casual wear, accessories, etc. The results of studying the 19th-century male officials' uniforms through this historic record were as follows. The clothing record in the List of Wedding Gifts was more accurate than that in the Dukongongju Garyedeungrok. The four types of government official uniforms for Nam Nyeong-wie included jeobok, sangbok, sibok, and gongbok. For the joebok, there was geumkwan, daehong-hangrah joebok, baeksam, ahole, seodae, gakpae, peseul, paeok, husu, and mokhwa. The record of the List confirms that baeksam was used as jungdan for joebok. For the gongbok, there was daehong-hangrah gongbok, blue seolhancho duhgre, blue saenggyeonggwangju changui, and green waehangrah kurimae. The record of the List shows that the lining of the gongbok was duhgre, and confirms, for the first time, that changui and kurimae were worn inside the gongbok. For the sangbok, there was samo, ssanghakhyungbae embroidered with golden thread, dark green cloud patterned gapsa gwandae, blue cloud patterned gapsa duhgre, blue ssangmuncho changui, and Chinese purple hwamunsa kurimae. For the sibok, there was pink gwangsa gwandae, and blue gwangcho duhgre. For the lining, blue duhgre was used. Lastly, the fabrics used for those costumes were all suitable for the climate in August.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.