• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.454-464
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• 2012

In this study, fitness tests for slacks were divided into shape fitness test and motion fitness test, and the fitness test conditions for slacks were designed as the first step for standardization of measuring scales. Shape fitness test consisted of analyzing the parameters of appearance sensory tests as described in preceding studies, performing a simulated appearance sensory test, collecting and considering apparel experts' opinions about the test parameters, and establishing test conditions in terms of test regions, descriptions and faces. For the regions of the abdomen, hip, crotch, thighs, and knees, the parameter of unnecessary wrinkle/stretch was observed from the anterior and posterior body, and then evaluated; for waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the parameters of ease and horizontality were observed from the anterior body and posterior body followed by evaluation; and, at the levels of waist, hip, crotch, knee and hem circumference, the division of the lateral line were observed from the lateral body followed by evaluation. Motion fitness test was composed of reviewing and analyzing comparatively the methods of motion fitness tests as mentioned in preceding studies, and establishing test conditions in terms of test motions and test regions. For each of the waist, abdomen, hip, crotch, and knees, wear sensation was tested in the positions as follows: upright standing, moderate walking, chairsitting, bending forward to the maximum, and kneeling down, provided that as the measured points of garment pressure, anterior waist, abdominal protrusion, buttock protrusion, crotch, and midpatella were set and tested.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.181-196
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• 2016

This study intended to suggest criteria for selection of subjects by lower body shape types necessary for evaluating slacks. For this, the characteristics were examined by lower body parts which would influence the fit of slacks on 3D human body shape data of the front and sides of the lower body for lower body shaping. The frequency of subjects by lower body shape types and the boundary points for discrimination of each type were suggested so that they could be available in selecting subjects. Using the data from Size Korea(2004), indirect measurement values measured on the front and sides of the lower body among 3D human body shape data of 175 subjects were analyzed. Their height, waist, and hip circumference fell under the range of standard deviation based on the mean of women aged 18~24 years, and then lower body shaping was conducted by combining the front and side shapes of the lower body. The front of the lower body was classified into four sections: average waist/average hip type(F1), average waist/narrow hip tyle(F2), narrow waist/narrow hip type(F3) and narrow waist/wide hip type(F4) and the sides of the lower body were divided into four sections: average abdomen/average hip type(S1), flat abdomen/average hip type(S2), average abdomen/protrude hip type(S3)and round abdomen/flat hip type(S4), and thus total 16 lower body types were created by cross analysis. Besides, discriminant analysis suggested the boundary points for each shape type of the front and sides of the lower body as a criterion for deciding lower body shape type of each subject

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.80-90
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• 2016

This study presents quantitative evaluation standards for they mobility test, conducted in the process of a slacks fit test. This study quantified the subjects' evaluation on the wearability of slacks to provide objective qualitative evaluation methods for existing mobility tests. The subjects were women of standard bodytype between the ages of 18 and 24 wearing slacks designed to test their mobility based on differences in ease in waist girth, hip girth, crotch length and knee length. A qualitative evaluation tested the wearability of slacks. Clothing pressure and gap area between the body and slacks were measured based on a quantitative evaluation. The clothing pressure and the gap area between the body and slacks (which reflect the results of the wearability test) were presented in this study as quantitative evaluation standards. Clothing pressure tended to increase as the ease of slacks decreased; however, clothing pressure standards, that induce discomfort, differed by body parts. The hip, crotch, and knee area were relatively less sensitive despite the waist and the abdominal area sensitivity to clothing pressure. This study suggests the minimum ease for the appropriate wearing comfort of slacks by region and motion as standards for the quantitative evaluation of mobility tests. These was reset in accordance to the limits of clothing pressure when the minimum ease was considered as wearable but exceeded the clothing pressure limits.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.145-156
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to improve the fitness of Korean manufactured apparel products being exported to China and to provide for the basic data useful to the development of a torso prototypes for the Chinese women. For this purpose, Chinese college women aged between 18 and 24 were sampled to test the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women sample and address the problems of unfitness and thereupon. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; As a result of testing the fitness of the Korean manufactured apparels for the Chinese women, it was found that Chinese women felt more or less comfortable for the front of the jackets, but felt less comfortable with their side and back. Such a finding suggests that the Chinese women's postures are more turned back than the Korean women's. And also for the slacks, lack of a crotch length causes unnecessary pulls and creases from the back part to the crotch of a pair of slacks and the side line was not suitably placed. For this reason, the differences between the body shapes of Chinese and Korean women should be thoroughly considered when drawing the patterns to export to China.