• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

국내 패션관련 교육기관은 대부분은 졸업작품 쇼를 행하고 있는데, 학생들이 직접 제작하는 작품 쇼의 경우는 시간적, 경제적 인 여유 부족과 정확한 모델 치수 및 이에 따른 인대와 원형패턴의 부재로 의상 제작 후, 사이즈 수정에 많은 시간을 허비하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구는 대학의 졸업작품 진행 과정의 문제점과 필요한 원형의 종류를 조사하고, 현역 A급 모델의 신체 치수를 계측하여 표준 사이즈를 조사하였다. 이를 토대로 아이템에 따른 원형을 제작, 이를 현역 모델에 착장하여 졸업 쇼를 위한 기본 패턴을 제시하고자 하였다. 졸업작품 쇼는 학교에 따라 진행하는 과정과 기간에 차이를 보이지만 대부분 모델 가봉 후 수선 정도가 많고 경우에 따라서는 의상을 새로이 제작하여야하는 경우도 발생하여 모델 사이즈의 기본원형에 대한 필요성이 많이 나타났다. 모델의 신체 계측결과 모델은 일반인에 비해 슬림하고 가는 체형이며 키가 크고 다리가 길다. 여자의 경우 어깨너비가 일반인에 비해 넓지만 가슴둘레와 허리둘레는 더 가늘게 나타났으며 어깨를 편 바른 자세여서 뒷품과 앞품의 차이가 적었다. 이는 남자 모델의 경우도 같게 나타났고 전체적으로 다리길이와 소매길이의 비율이 크게 나타났다. 여자의 경우 토르소와 스커트, 바지패턴을, 남자의 경우 재킷과 바지 패턴을 머슬린으로 제작하여 현재 활동 중인 A급 남녀 모델 각각 2명씩에게 착장하였다. 제작원형들은 그 맞음새가 모두 적절하였고 남녀 모두 상의 경우는 편차가 적은 어깨너비는 고정하고 품과 둘레항목에서 편차를 주어 패턴을 수정하는 것이 바람직하다. 하의의 경우 여자 모델은 엉덩이 부분에 여유가 없는 바지원형을 설계 제시하고, 이는 타이트 핏 팬츠나 스트레치 소재에 사용에 적절하고 여유 있는 바지의 경우는 엉덩이둘레 폭과 밑위너비 폭에 변화를 주는 것이 바람직하다. 남자모델의 경우 하의는 비교적 잘 맞아 수정이 필요한 부분이 없었으며 전체적인 둘레 편차 역시 3cm 내외로 작아 수정의 폭은 작다. 다만 키에 따른 다리길이 편차가 심해 모델에 따라 길이조정 이 필요하지만 전체적인 맞음새에 영향을 주지 않았다. 이와 같이 본 연구에서 제안한 모델 치수는 현재 우리나라에서 활동하고 있는 A급 모델을 기준으로 제안되었으므로 평균적인 모델 치수와 근접하다고 할 수 있다. 또한 연구패턴 역시 현재 모델의 신체에 적절하게 잘 맞았으며 모델 개인에 따른 신체 치수의 편차에 따라 차이를 보이겠지만 본 연구에서 제시된 패턴의 품 조절만으로도 충분히 잘 맞는 패턴으로 사료된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권4호
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• pp.112-129
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• 1997

This research, focused on the curved of the lower body, designated abdomen and hip gradient, crotch depth and crotch width the factors for which are able to influence on the appearence and the function of Divided Skirt and analized the changes when that were applied to a real pattern, and so the purpose of this research is to show the basic documents needed to design a Divided Skirt pattern fitting with the wear purpose and usage. The following are the results of this research. 1. The abdomen and hip gradient turned out as the most influential factor on the appearance and the function of Divided Skirt. The pattern of which the abdomen and hip gradient was designated as vertical zero degree, showed an excellent appearance and in case of function, the pattern of which thw angle of the abdomen and hip gradient of human body type was applied to itself without a particular designation turned out excellent. 2. In case of crotch depth, the pattern which had crotch depth＋2㎝, had a better appearance but influced nothing on function. 3. The factor of crotch width didn\`t have any influence on the appearance and function of Divided Skirt. 4. Referring to the results of the above, the Divided Skirt pattern of which the appearance and the function turned excellent, had the angle of abdomen gradient 4 degrees, the angle abdomen gradient 4 degrees, the angle of hip gradient/2+2.5 degrees, crotch depth+2㎝ and crotch width following human body type. In case of Divied Skirt worn when going out, the pattern which had the angle of abdomen and hip gradient vertical zero degree, crotch depth+2㎝ and crotch width following human body type, turned out suitable. Also, the suitable pattern of Divided Skirt for working had the abdomen and hip gradient following human body type, crotch depth+2㎝ and covering girth diameter/2±1㎝.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권4호
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• pp.652-663
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to the body types to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0cm and W - lcm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+0cm and H-2cm for thin body type were suggested for the best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as fDllows. W+Ocm, H+Ocm for thin body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.3 ∼ 5.0% of waist, 4.8 ∼7.2% of hip for thin body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For thin body type, W+0cm, W - lcm for waist and H+0cm, H-2cm for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern. Therefore, different ease has to be applied to stretch skirt pattern according to the body parts, to make the skirt looks good, is appropriate for thin body type, and is satisfied with appearance and wearing satisfaction test.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.433-446
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• 2001

Recently, according to changes in fashion trends, the importance of stretch fabric stands out. A lot of studies on non-stretch woven fabrics have been made, but few studies on stretch fabrics has been made yet. Especially, the study on ease for the patterns, according to body types, of stretch has not been made at all. The purpose of this study was to make clear reduction ratio due to the stretch ratio and to find out the ease for the patterns of stretch skirt according to standard body type to improve the aesthetics and wearing satisfaction. Therefore, fundamental data for aesthetic and functional patternmaking of the stretch skirt can be suggested. The results from the study were as follows: 1. The results from the appearance test were as follows. For the ease on waist, W+0㎝ and W-1㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best fit. For the ease on hip, H+2㎝ and H+0㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing best fit. 2. The results from wearing satisfaction test were as follows. W+0㎝, H+2㎝ for standard body type were suggested for the best wearing satisfaction. 3. Based on the results from the above tests, the pattern reduction ratios for stretch skirt were as follows: pattern reduction ratio 3.0∼4.6% of waist, 2.1∼4.3% of hip for standard body type were suggested for the appropriate reduction ratio for stretch skirt. 4. The result from this study for stretch skirt was as follows: For standard body type, W+0㎝, W-1㎝ for waist and H+2㎝, H+0㎝ for hip were appropriate for stretch skirt pattern.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.392-406
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to recognize of the size conditions of ready to wear skirts and analyze the patterns of them so that some educational patterns can be complemented. For this purpose, the investigation of the size conditions was focused on the body sizes and products sizes of the care labels. The patterns of them produced through CAD have been classified into 24 items for the effective and practical analysis. Thus, 9 brands were selected and the basic skirts marketed in 2002 spring were analyzed. The results were as follows. 1. Designs of the backs of the basic skirts produced by 9 brands have the similar designs with two darts. Regarding the designs of the front, 6 brands of them have the designs with no darts, 3 of them have the one with two darts. Designs of waists are composed of low waists and round belts. 2. Regarding the waist circumference as the basic composing elements of skirts, 55.6% of the patterns have the composition of the styles with larger front than the back but 33.3% of them have the same front as back. As to the hips, 77.8% of them have the composition of the patterns with larger back than the front. As for the comparison of waist lines, 55.6% of them have lower front lines than the back lines. 3. Regarding darts placement, it was moved to the side lines from the middle of 1/2 of waist lines, dart intake was 1.8-2.4㎝, the length of the front darts was 7.8-9.5㎝, and the length of the back darts 8.4-11.1㎝ 4. The results of wearing-tests by the sensory evaluation, it showed that almost all the items of the results were satisfactory.

• 대한전자공학회논문지TC
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.115-119
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• 2008

본 논문에서는 도허티 전력증폭기의 출력 정합단에 새로운 광전자밴드갭(PBG) 구조를 적용하여 높은 효율을 유지하면서 선형성을 개선시키도록 하였다. 제안된 나선형 PBG 구조는 비평면 제조 공정을 요구하지 않는 유전체 판 위에 패턴을 뜬 2차원의 규칙적인 격자이다. 실험결과를 통해서 보면, 이 구조는 접지 평면에 세 개의 셀을 식각시킨 기본적인 PBG 구조보다 더 넓은 저지대역과 더 높은 저지 특성을 갖는다. 또한 더욱 가파른 스커트 특성을 갖는다. 이 새로운 PBG 구조는 선형성 개선을 위하여 도허티 전력증폭기에 적용되어 질 수 있다. 나선형 PBG 구조를 적용한 도허티 전력증폭기의 3차 혼변조 왜곡(IMD3)은 코드분할 다중접속(CDMA) 응용에서 -33dBc이다. 제안된 PBG 구조가 없는 도허티 전력증폭기와 비교했을 때, PAE는 유지하면서 IMD3은 -8dBc 개선되었다. 더욱이 나선형 PBG 구조는 기본적인 PBG 구조보다 물리적인 크기가 줄어서 전력증폭기의 전체 크기를 줄일 수 있었다.

• 한국전자파학회논문지
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• 제17권12호
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• pp.1199-1205
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• 2006

본 논문은 두 개의 대역 저지 반파장 슬롯을 방사체에 삽입하여, 향상된 대역 저지 특성을 갖는 보우타이형 광대역 모노폴 안테나를 제안하였다. 제안된 안테나는 전자기적으로 급전된 보우타이 형태의 방사 평면과 접지면 사이에 반원 모양의 기생 접지면을 추가한 구조이다. 향상된 대역 저지 특성을 얻기 위하여 두 수평 슬롯간의 결합량을 조절하였다. 측정된 안테나는 $4.96{\sim}5.51GHz$에서 저지 특성을 갖고, $2.7{\sim}6.9GHz$에서 정재파비 2.0 이하를 만족하는 광대역 특성을 나타내었다. 단일 슬롯 사용과 비교하면, 넓은 저지 대역폭과 향상된 스커트 특성을 나타내었다. 측정된 안테나의 방사 패턴은 이상적인 모노폴 안테나와 유사한 특성을 가지며, 저지 대역에서의 안테나 이득은 다른 동작 주파수에 비해 x-z 평면을 기준으로 $5{\sim}10dB$ 이상 감소되었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권6호
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• pp.756-764
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze of size and patterns of ready to wear basic for middle age women. For this purpose, I select 9 brands and analyze the basic skirts size system marketed in 2002 spring in Korea. To study the actual size system, I have compared size labeling, which I researched, with Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. And I also have compared body measurement with the product size. To study the pattern, I have classified the composition of the skirt into 24 items. The different result shows between this study and Korean Industrial Standard Size Chart. The waist circumference is smaller than it should be, and the hip circumference is larger than it should be. As I have examined the body measurement and the product size, variability of the waist circumference depends on the location of the waistline. For the hip circumference, I have found that both the body measurement and the product size are same, or the product size is smaller than the body measurement. Both cases have been found to be over 67%. I have classified the analysis of the pattern into four components; circumference, relevance to waist line, dart, and length. For the waist circumference, the same size of the front and the back is 44.4%, and making the front larger is 44.4% also. In the hip circumference, the identical size of the front and the back is 66.7% and the larger size of back is 22.2%. Regarding darts placement, it is moved to the side lines from the middle of 1/2 of waist lines, dart intake was 1.3~3.2 cm, the length of darts is 7.2~12.7 cm.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.989-996
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic knowledge for the pattern development of a flared skirt. Two flat pattern (FP) methods, the concentric circle method and the corrected concentric circle method, and a draping were used for pattern making. Using these patterns, skirts were made with lengthwise grain in the centerline. The influence of pattern making method on the silhouette of the flared skirt was evaluated by the hemlines formed at the skirt worn in a dress form. Moreover, the combined influence of pattern making method and cutting direction on the silhouette of the flared skirt was examined with the draping pattern (DP) skirt and a FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline. The DP skirt had more uniform nodes and formed a stable wave form than the FP skirts throughout the whole hemlines. The number of nodes was reduced with lining in the two FP skirts, whereas the number of nodes was not changed in the DP skirt. The unit wave form of all the skirts by three patterns showed long loop form, and the slope angles of the unit wave form of the two FP skirts were higher than that of the DP skirt. The silhouette of the flared skirt was highly influenced by the shape of the waist circumference line in patterns. The DP skirt with lengthwise grain in the centerline showed good silhouette with uniform nodes and high marking efficiency, compared to the FP skirt with $45^{\circ}$ bias grain in the centerline.