• Proceedings of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association Conference
• /
• 2004.06a
• /
• pp.60-64
• /
• 2004

스커트는 여성을 표현하는 심볼이기도 하며 스커트를 입은 모습의 인물 실루엣은 국제적으로 통용하는 여성의 마크로 되어 있다. 또한 여성의 하반신을 커버하는 의상이라는 성격을 가지고 있기 때문에 스커트는 오랫동안 유행의 초점이 되어 왔고 앞으로도 창작의 흥미가 끊이지 않는 부분이기도 할 것이다.(중략)

• Proceedings of the SOHE Conference
• /
• 2003.10a
• /
• pp.77-77
• /
• 2003

본 연구의 목적은 후프(hoop)의 기원 및 변천과정을 고찰해보고 시대별로 후프의 유형을 분류한 후, 포스트모더니즘 이후 더욱 다양해진 후프가 현대패션에서 어떻게 응용되고 있는지를 살펴봄으로써 후프의 역사적ㆍ미적 가치를 재인식하여 오늘날 복식디자인에 창조의 영감을 줄 수 있는 하나의 모티브를 제시하는데 있다. 후프가 발생하였던 르네상스시대에는 신 중심에서 인간중심으로 사고가 변화하면서, 복식에 있어서도 인간의 신체미를 과시하려는 의도로 인체의 실루엣을 과장ㆍ확대하고자 하였다. 따라서 속옷의 중요성과 역할에 따른 심미적인 기능이 복식에 절대적으로 필요하였고, 뿐만 아니라 기교적인 면에서 속옷에 요구되는 장식성은 어느 시대보다 절실하였다. 그 결과 겉옷이 확대되고, 이에 따라 속옷도 인체를 크게 보일 수 있는 후프가 고안되었다. 후프는 스커트를 부풀리기 위해 철사나 고래뼈 등을 세공하여 만든 테를 넣은 속치마를 말한다. 16세기 중엽 스페인에서 유행한 종형의 파딩게일(farthingale)을 시초로, 영국과 프랑스에서는 드럼형의 휠 파딩게일(wheel farthingale)과 오쓰뀌(hausse col)가 유행하였다. 17세기 초기에는 후프를 착용한 16세기 복식이 유행하였으나, 1625년 이후 슬림한 스타일의 17세기 복식이 유행하자 후프의 착용은 점차 쇠퇴하였다. 18세기에는 파니에(panier)가 유행하여 옆을 부풀린 스커트의 실루엣을 형성하였고, 19세기에는 크리놀린(crinoline), 벗슬(bustle)이 유행하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.6
• /
• pp.812-825
• /
• 2020

This study compared and analyzed the interaction visual effect of skirt silhouettes and skirt length by body mass index. This study provides basic data for women in their 20s and 30s to choose suitable skirts for their image. Twelve skirts were made, consisting of two categories of body mass index, three types of skirt silhouette and two levels of skirt length. Men and women in their 20s and 30s evaluated the visual effects of the experimental skirts using a questionnaire. The interaction effect of the visual effect following the skirt's length and silhouette by body mass index were analyzed by three-way ANOVA. Overall, a shorter the body and lower body length resulted in better vertical effects in normal weight. In terms of horizontal effects, such as lower body thickness and full-body shape, the 40 cm skirt, 50 cm tight, and A-line skirt were generally shown as better images. Skirt length helped supplement body type rather than silhouette in the overweight section. When the length was 40 cm, three skirts showed a more positive image. This study provide results for women in their 20s and 30s to choose skirts that are suitable for their image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.11 s.158
• /
• pp.1598-1607
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the proportion of gathered skirts using a three-dimensional measurement system. And in this experiment, we have attempted to accumulate three-dimensional data of wearing model and find out adequate methods for analyzing shape of clothes. The experimental design consists of two factorial designs. We established three different kinds of fabrics, ratio of gathers. The measurement tool for three-dimensional model was whole body 3D scanner(Exima-WBS2H). Analysis program used in experiment is RapidForm 2004 PP1 and Pattern Design 2000. Data analysis utilizes SPSS WIN 10.0 Package. As the results show, there were different effect of gather and proportion of shapes among the measurements of width, thickness and areas made by different lines of vision in cross-sectional silhouette. And there were difference shapes of section area at each part of gathered skirts between vertical-outline silhouette and vortical-plane silhouette made by gathering conditions. And also the cross-sectional silhouettes and vertical silhouettes were related to shape of clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.63 no.6
• /
• pp.140-149
• /
• 2013

The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.9
• /
• pp.1603-1613
• /
• 2001

본 연구는 동작분석장치를 이용하여 하지동작분석을 시도함으로서 실제 동작 시 적응 할 수 있는 의복설계를 위한 기초 자료로서 하지부 실루엣 변화의 특성을 밝히고자 하였다. 대퇴돌기점을 기준으로 본 하지동작의 진행방향 이동과 상향 방향이동을 살펴보았는데 보행유형에 따라 여유량이 특히 요구되는 부위가 각기 다르며, 부위별 필요 여유 량도 각기 다르다는 것을 알 수 있었으며 , 이러한 보행유형 별 스커트 실루엣의 특징은 기능복 설계 시 고려되어야 하겠다. 평지보행 시는 발목부위가 전면방향보다 후면방향으로 이동의 범위가 크므로 트임이나 주름이 뒷면에 있는 것이 적합하고, 계단승강이나 버스승강의 경우 무릎전면에 여유량이 필요하므로 주름이나 트임을 앞쪽에 주는 것이 바람직하며 그 길이는 대퇴돌기점 높이정도에서 시작하여야 하고 무릎아래에 있는 앞트임은 하지동작에 도움이 되지 않음을 알 수 있었다.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.5
• /
• pp.91-108
• /
• 2017

Interests in 3D virtual clothing technology and its application in online shopping malls are increasing with the advent of the Fourth Industrial Revolution. Most studies on 3D virtual clothing, however, are focused on observing drapes or ease of virtual clothing depending on fabric properties of representative clothing items. Therefore, the purpose of this study is: first, to determine if current input of typical material characteristics in 3D CLO are sufficient to formulate virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes; second, to determine if subjective appearance evaluation matched physical shape characteristics of those skirts. In this study, appearances of typical cotton, wool, silk, rayon, and polyester skirts with different front and back pattern were compared between actual and virtual clothing depending on fabric materials. Subjective appearance evaluation was conducted by 7 experts regarding similarity between actual and virtual clothing with a 5-point scale. For objective evaluation of the both types of skirt shape, degree of roundness at the cross section, displacement of side seam, position of back waistline, and the number of folds at the skirt back were observed. In the case of cotton and wool, not the subjective appearance evaluation as well as shape characteristics of virtual skirts were well matched to the actual shape of skirts with a few material inputs. However, current material inputs for silk, rayon and polyester were insufficient to cover material differences in formation of virtual skirts with different front and back silhouettes.

• Proceedings of the Korean Information Science Society Conference
• /
• 2001.10b
• /
• pp.544-546
• /
• 2001

움직임에 따른 변형을 실시간으로 처리하는 것은 가상 현실이나 게임 제작 분야에서 절실히 요구되고 있다. 반면에 캐릭터 등이 착용한 스커트나 바지 등과 같이, 복잡한 변형 특성을 가지는 옷감의 변혁은 캐릭터의 움직임에 따른 변형을 원하는 시간 내에 자연스럽게 생성하기가 쉽지 않다. 본 논문에서는 많은 수의 이산점을 필요로 하는 복잡한 변형을, 실시간적 처리를 고려하여 다단계로 시뮬레이션하는 방법을 제안한다. 제안하는 방법은 방향을 가진 표면 요소로 기본 frame을 구성하여 이들의 시뮬레이션 결과로 비교적 사실적인 표면 전체의 실루엣을 얻고, 이를 세분화시킴으로써 움직임에 따른 세부적인 변형을 생성한다. 기존의 시뮬레이션 중심의 계층적 방법과는 달리, 변형된 기본 프레임의 유한 요소간에 작용하는 움직임과 위상 관계를 기하학적으로 해석함으로써, 움직임에 따른 표면의 세부적인 모양을 얻어 낼 수 있다. 본 논문의 결과로 캐릭터의 돌발적인 움직임에도 안정적이면서 그럴 듯한 움직임을 생성하며, 움직임에 따른 자연스러운 모양을 실시간에 생성할 수 있다.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.20 no.10
• /
• pp.284-295
• /
• 2019

Celebrities form a dominant culture of one era and are cultivating influence to lead new fashion. Domestic women celebrities attending Seoul Fashion Week build their image as a fashion leader by exposing their own fashion aesthetics to the public. This promotes PR and sales of the brand of fashion designers in the collection. This study considers the fashion trends of women celebrities by analyzing the fashion style of women celebrities in Seoul Collection over the recent five years. The results of this study on contents analysis are as follows. First, straight silhouettes, achromatic colors, and an absence of a pattern or decoration comprised a high proportion. Celebrities preferred a modern and minimal style. Second, they preferred a feminine style that shows traditional feminine beauty through slim and princess silhouettes, one-piece dress or skirts, soft materials, and decorations with ruffles. In addition, as a matching jacket on one-piece dresses also appeared, it showed that celebrities attempted to change the chic feminine style with masculine beauty. Third, boxy silhouettes, multi-color mixed with colorful colors, graphic or lettering patterns, glittering materials and lots of details comprised a high proportion. This means celebrities pursue a maximal style that reveals their strong presence as fashion leaders.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
• /
• v.24 no.3
• /
• pp.399-409
• /
• 2013

The purpose of this study is to compare how the number of panels, the amount of flare and the flare starting point affect the silhouette of the gored skirt. This study consisted of (1) creation of 3D body representations (2) comparison of silhouette between 3D virtual gored skirt and actual gored skirt by pilot experiment (3) pattern drafting of twenty-seven different gored skirts for 3D body representations (4) a computer simulation of twenty-seven different gored skirts for visualization and assessment (5) visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts (6) comparison of ham shapes and measurements for the node and size analysis. A visual inspection of twenty-seven different 3D virtual gored skirts showed clear differences by the amount of flare and the flare starting point ; however, there was notably less difference in the width of ham among six-piece, eight-piece and ten-piece panels. This demonstrated that there was less influence on the number of panels than the amount of flare width of ham and extent of ham for the 3D virtual gored skirt.