• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.143-151
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• 1990

The sediment transport in shallow water regions has been studied in various ways and, accordingly, many formulas have been proposed. However, when these formulas are applied practically in the field, they are not sufficient to fully estimate the sediment transport rate yet. The primary reason is how to take into account the effect of irregularities of field waves : wave heights, periods and directions. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate stochastic and kinematic characteristics of waves in three dimensional random seas in order to more accurately estimate it. In particular, the asymmetrical properties of directional spectrum become significant and play an important role in various phenomena in a shallow water region. In this study, their effects of incident waves the joint distribution of wave heights, periods and directions are investigated through field measurements.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.106-121
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• 2020

In order to make harbor outskirt facilities robust using the reliability-based design, probabilistic models of wave heights at varying stage of shoaling process optimized for Korean sea waves are prerequisite. In this rationale, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling process of random waves over the beach with a sandbar at its foreshore. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES [Large Eddy Simulation], dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used. Considering the characteristics of swells observed at the east coast of Korean Peninsula, random waves were simulated using JONSWAP wave spectrum of various peak enhancement coefficients and random phase method. The coefficients of probabilistic models proposed in this study are estimated from the results of frequency analysis of wave crests and its associated trough detected by Wave by Wave Analysis of the time series of numerically simulated free surface displacements based on the threshold crossing method. Numerical results show that Modified Glukhovskiy wave height distribution, the most referred probabilistic models at finite water depth in the literature, over-predicts the occurring probability of relatively large and small wave heights, and under predicts the occurrence rate of waves of moderate heights. On the other hand, probabilistic models developed in this study show vary encouraging agreements. In addition, the discrepancy of the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution from the measured one are most visible over the surf zone, and as a result, the Modified Glukhovskiy distribution should be applied with caution for the reliability-based design of harbor outskirt facilities deployed near the surf-zone.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.73-78
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• 2010

Wave energy is dissipated mainly by friction on the seabed until the waves reach the surf zone. Many researchers have investigated the mechanism of wave friction and the bottom shear stress induced by wave motion at a certain point is now well estimated by introducing the wave friction factor related to the near bed velocity given by linear wave theory. The variation of wave energy or wave height over a long distance can be, however, estimated by an iteration process when the propagation of waves is strongly influenced by bed friction. In the present study simple semi-theoretical equation has been developed to compute the variation of wave height for the condition of wave propagation on a constant beach slope. The ratio of wave height is determined by the product of shoalng factor and wave height friction factor (frictional wave energy dissipation factor). The wave height estimated by the new equation is compared with the wave height estimated by the solution of numerical integration for the condition that the waves propagate on a constant slope.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.72-82
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• 1992

To accurately estimate nearshore current in shallow water regions. it is necessary to investigate the irregular wave transformation characteristics and radiation stress produced by random sea waves. This research is to investigate the application or the individual wave Analysis Method. the Component Wave Analysis Method and Representative Wave Analysis Method in the shallow water region. These methods were estimated by wave shallowing transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region b)r generating regular waves, two component waves and irregular waves (Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu type). That is, the Indivisual Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the viewpoint of shallow water transformation of wave statistical characteristics and their zero-down-crossing waves (wave height period and wave celerity). And the component Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the view point of shallow water transformation of basic frequency component wave and their interference frequency component wave. In addition, this research is to compare the measured mean water level elevation with the calculated one from radiation stress of irreguar waves that is assumed in the three methods above.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.263-270
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• 1993

A study on the variation of radiation stress and mean water level is carried out for the shoaling and breaking waves on a plane beach. In general, the radiation stresses computed based on the linear wave theory are overestimated. which results in the discrepancy between the computed results and laboratory data of mean water level in the surf zone. In this paper, by modifying the Svendsen's approach (1984), radiation stress is expressed in terms of water depth. The computed results are compared with the results calculated by a linear wave theory and Sawaragi's approach (1984) based on the spectrum of breaking wave components, and published laboratory data. The computed results of the modifed Svendsen's approach are favourably compared with the laboratory data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-94
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• 1996

Random wave breaking is one of the most important phenomena in coastal engineering. For two and half decades, various models have been proposed to predict wave height variations in the surf zone. However, some models are applicable to plane beaches only, some requires clumsy computation for a joint probability density of wave heights and periods, and some others need calibration with individual wave data. The present study aims at formulating a model simple enough but reasonably accurate. The merits of the present model are as follows: It is applicable to any shapes of bottom profiles; It requires the input data of incident wave heights and periods only without necessity of coefficient calibration with field data; and its computation time is minimal because it deals with representative waves directly.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.3-11
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• 2001

To know the seawater infiltration into tidal flat sediment in coastal area is very important, because it is significantly correlated with the infiltration and transportation of pollutants in soil, the supply of dissolved oxygen, nutrients and organic matter to benthic organisms for survival of benthic organisms and the seawater purification. So, we set up purpose to clarify the infiltration behavior of seawater by wave action in tidal flat, to clear the effects of slope of tidal flat and breaking wave height on seawater infiltration and to quantify the infiltration volume of seawater. For purpose, the seawater infiltration was studied with visualization method by using coloring tracer and transparent glass beads replaced as natural sediment in model tidal flat. Specific conclusions derived from this study are as follows. The semi-circular type infiltration of seawater by wave action into saturated sediment was a new infiltration behavior that was not considered in previous studies. The infiltration rate of seawater was increased with increasing of breaking wave height and slope of tidal flat. However, the effects of the slope was bigger than that of breaking wave height on seawater infiltration into tidal flat sediments. It was possible to calculate the infiltration volume of seawater by wave action in natural tidal flat sediment and in fields. Therefore, we can point out that wave action play an important role in the supply of dissolved oxygen, nutrients and organic matter to benthic organisms, transportation or diffusion of pollutants and seawater purification. So, we hope to be studied the supply of food to benthic organism, pollutant transport and seawater purification on the base of these results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.39-50
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• 2018

In this study, the nonlinear interaction of irregular waves with wave breaking and currents around permeable submerged breakwater was investigated with the aid of olaFlow model which is open source CFD software published under the GPL license. The irregular wave performance of olaFlow applied in this study was verified by comparing and evaluating the target frequency spectrum and the generated frequency spectrum for applicability to irregular waves. Based on the applicability of this numerical model to irregular wave fields, in the coexistence fields of irregular waves and currents, the characteristics of wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater with the respect to the beach type and current direction versus wave propagation were carefully investigated. The numerical results revealed that the shape of wave breaking on the crown of the submerged breakwater and the formation of the mean flow velocity around the structure depend greatly on the current directions and the type of the beach. In addition, it was found that the wave height fluctuation due to the current direction with respect to the wave propagation is closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2007.05a
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• pp.570-576
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• 2007

수중천퇴가 있는 지형을 통과하며 변형하는 파랑을 실험한 Vincent와 Briggs (1989)의 실험조건을 수치모의하여 파랑과 흐름의 상호작용 효과를 연구하였다. SHORECIRC 흐름모형을 결합한 파랑모형 REF/DIF 1과 SWAN, 그리고 파랑과 흐름을 동시에 수치모의 할 수 있는 FUNWAVE를 이용하여 수중천퇴상을 통과하며 변형하고 또 다시 수중천퇴상에서 발생한 쇄파에 의해 발생된 쇄파류에 의해 변형하는 규칙파를 수치모의하였다. 수중천퇴상에서 쇄파가 발생할 때 잉여파응력의 급격한 변화에 따른 강한 유사제트류가 발생하고, 이 흐름은 수중천퇴후면의 파집중현상을 방해하여 파랑을 천퇴중심축으로부터 바깥쪽으로 굴절시켜, 파고를 상대적으로 감소시키는 역할을 한다. 이러한 역학은 실험결과와 본 연구의 수치모의를 통해 확인할 수 있었고, 이는 파랑쇄파류의 파랑변형에 미치는 역할의 중요성을 확인시켜주는 것이다. 규칙파 모의에 한계가 있는 SWAN과 규칙파 특성상 강하게 나타나는 중복파의 잉여파응력계산에 한계가 있는 REF/DIF 1과 달리 FUNWAVE를 이용한 수치모의는 실험결과와 완벽히 일치하였으며, 수중천퇴 후면에 발생하는 쇄파류와 쇄파류에 의한 쌍 vortex의 발달과정을 잘 보여 주었다.