• 대한토목학회논문집
• /
• 제28권1B호
• /
• pp.115-123
• /
• 2008

본 연구에서는 파 잠제 해빈의 상호간섭에 의한 파동장 및 흐름장의 변화를 검토하기 위하여, 2기의 잠제와 모래해빈을 설치한 경우를 대상으로 허와 이(2007)에 의해 개발된 모델(LES-WASS-3D)을 이용하여 잠제 주변의 3차원적 흐름특성과 파고분포에 대해 고찰하였다. 그 결과, 잠제단부를 중심으로 회전하는 순환류를 확인할 수 있었으며, 여러 단면의 평균류 및 평균와도를 검토함으로서 잠제주변의 3차원 흐름특성을 고찰하였다. 아울러 잠제 천단상의 쇄파점분포, 잠제주변의 파고분포 및 wave set-up에 대해서도 논의하였다.

• 한국해양공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국해양공학회 2004년도 학술대회지
• /
• pp.96-101
• /
• 2004

When the wind blows hard, most waves are breaking in sea. Breaking waves occur, exceeding limitation of wave steepness(wave height/wave length=l/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at two dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies. We research how are the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force. We compare the force in a regular wave which has same specifications(wave height, period and length) as the breaking wave. Also the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated by comparison on the analytic results using the potential theory.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제24권1호
• /
• pp.116-122
• /
• 2010

The aim of this study is to examine the effects of shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters on 3-D wave breaking characteristics over them. First, the numerical model, which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), has been validated by a comparison with Goda's equation for breaking wave heights. And then, using the numerical results, the wave breaking points over the crest of submerged breakwaters have been examined in relation to the shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the wave height distribution and upper flow around submerged breakwaters have been also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the beach.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제23권1호
• /
• pp.7-15
• /
• 2009

The aim of this study was to survey the effects of the beachface gradient on 3-D currents around the open inlets of submerged breakwaters. First, the numerical model was validated by a comparison with existing experimental data. This model is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve?Structure?Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D). Using the numerical results of this model, the 3-D currents around the open inlets of submerged breakwaters were examined in relation to the beachface gradient. Moreover, the wave height distribution and mean flow around them are also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the crest.

• 한국해안해양공학회지
• /
• 제18권2호
• /
• pp.166-177
• /
• 2006

본 연구에서는 Boussinesq방정식을 지배방정식으로 한 기존의 강비선형 모형과 고차 모형(다층모형)의 정확도를 각각 검토하였으며, 사용된 다층모형은 Lynett과 Liu(2004a)에 의해 개발된 것이다. 수치모형으로 shelf 지형에서의 쇄파를 모의하였으며, 실험에 적용된 파랑의 비선형성(${k_0}{A_0}$)은 0.029~0.180 범위이다. 전반적으로 2층 모형의 해석결과가 실험결과와 잘 일치하였다. 1층모형의 경우에는 쇄파점 가까운 곳에서부터 파고가 빨리 증폭이 된 반면, 2층모형의 파고증폭 정도는 수리실험결과와 잘 부합하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
• /
• 제21권1호
• /
• pp.18-24
• /
• 2007

When the wind blows strong, most waves are breaking at sea. Breaking waves occur by exceeding the limitation of wave steepness (wave height/wave length = 1/7). Because a wave of single angular frequency couldn't generate the breaking phenomena at a two-dimensional ocean engineering basin, the breaking wave can be generated by the superposition of waves with various angular frequencies based on dispersion relation. This study investigates the particle kinematics in the breaking wave and the magnitude of the breaking wave exciting force at the breaking point and breaking region. We compare the regular wave load in a regular wave, which has same specifications (wave height, period and length), with the breaking waveload. Also, the experimental results of wave exciting force and particle velocity are investigated, by comparison with the analytic results using the potential theory.