• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.39-48
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• 2021

The experiment of rip current at successive ends of breaking wave crests was conducted in a laboratory wave basin, and its time-varying evolution according to incident wave durations was observed by using ortho-rectified images. The experiment utilized the generation of a quasi nodal line of the honeycomb-pattern waves (i.e., intersecting wave trains) formed by out-of-phase motion of two piston-type wave makers arranged in the transverse direction, instead of the original honeycomb pattern waves which are generated when two wave trains propagate with slightly different wave directions. The particle moving distance and velocity caused by the rip current were measured by using the particle tracking technique. As a result, the rip current was survived for a while even without incident waves after its generation due to several successive ends of wave crests, and it moved the particles further out to sea.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Navigation and Port Research Conference
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• 2004.11a
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• pp.159-166
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• 2004

The beach, a margin between the sea and the land, is an extremely dynamic zone, for it is here that the motion of the sea interacts with the sediment, rock of the land or the artificial barriers. In order to prohibit or retard erosions due to the extreme Typhoon or storm induced waves, man has constructed these of temporary or more permanent nature, but they caused problems of other erosions from the secondary effect of them and a bad influence on the seascape. In considering the energy available to accelerate sediment transport and erosion in the surf zone, where the waves are broken, and offshore beyond the breaker line, the wave height and the wave period should be taken account. Hence, we tried to present an applicability of the submerged artificial Bio-reefs analyzing waves by a numerical model such that they could reduce the wave power without the secondary effect and restoration of marine ecologies. A new technique of beach preservation is by artificial reefs with artificial and/or natural kelps or sea plants. By engineering the geometry of the nearshore reef, the wave attenuation ability of the feature can be optimized Higher, wider and longer reefs provide the greatest barrier against wave energy but material volumes, navigation hazards, placement methods and other factors require engineering considerations for the overall design of the nearshore reefs.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.55-68
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• 2020

In order to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of a boundary layer streaming over the beach cusps appeared in swells prevailing mild seas, we numerically simulated the shoaling process of Edge waves over the beach cusp. Synchronous Edge waves known to sustain the beach cusps could successfully be duplicated by generating two obliquely colliding Edge waves in front of beach cusps. The amplitude A_B and length L_B of Beach Cusp were elected to be 1.25 m and 18 m, respectively based on the measured data along the Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that boundary layer streaming was formed at every phase of shoaling process without exception, and the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to occur at the crest of sand bar. In RUN 1 where the shortest waves were deployed, the maximum boundary layer streaming was observed to be around 0.32 m/s, which far exceeds the amplitude of free stream by two times. It is also noted that the maximum boundary layer streaming mentioned above greatly differs from the analytical solution by Longuet-Higgins (1957) based on wave Reynolds stress. In doing so, we also identify the recovery procedure of natural beaches in swells prevailing mild seas, which can be summarized such as: as the infra-gravity waves formed in swells by the resonance wave-wave interaction arrives near the breaking line, the sediments ascending near the free surface by the Phase II waves orbital motion were carried toward the pinnacle of foreshore by the shoreward flow commenced at the steep front of breaking waves, and were deposited near the pinnacle of foreshore due to the infiltration.