• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.56-67
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• 1999

At the turn of the 19C, the first development, spreading to the all classes that peculiar attitude of mind associated with the term prudery. The second changes of habit which affected both sexes and their undergarments were the novel idea of personal cleanliness. Drawers appear to have been of two lengths, short, when worn under breeches, and long when worn under pantaloons and trousers. The dandy wore corsets for beauty. In the early part of the 19C, the differences between day and evening style came to be accentuated. Not only the beau, but the soldier and hunting man were addicted to stays. The high standing collars of the early 1800s became fairly low in the middle of the century. in mid of the 19C, a woolen under-vest was worn next to the skin and studs were an usual fashion. At about 1850 the bottom of the shirt was cut in a curve. For evening dress the elliptic collar was introduced.

• 고문화
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• 62호
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• pp.87-112
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• 2003

본 고찰은 일본복식 중 고소데(小袖)의 역사와 복식문양의 의미를 알아보고자 했다. 현재 입고 있는 기모노의 원형은 헤이안(平安)시대 상류층에서 착용되었던 고소데에서 비롯되며 오닌(應人)의 난 이후 모든 계층이 입는 복식이 되었다. 원래 아무 장식이 없는 속옷이었던 고소데는 겉옷이 되어감에 따라 점차 화려한 장식이 생기게 되었고 하나의 예술작품으로 완성되어 갔다. 고소데의 문양에는 다양한 일본문화의 상징이 나타나 있다. 자연에서부터 일상생활 용품, 전설, 문학에 이르기까지 풍부한 소재를 일본 특유의 고유함과 예술적인 감성으로 표현했다.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.273-285
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• 2002

Three materials for sport underwear were manufactured by order for study, and among them, suitable material in order to perform an experiment on the effect of wearing was adopted. The results are as follows: The result of wearing an experimental clothes for sports manufactured as a foundation-type underwear for sports showed that if the same compositional materials were applied, laminating material had higher rate than that of others in the amount of sweat. Concerning relative humidity in clothes and the amount of sweat absorbed in clothes among the two kinds of materials which were produced by laminate, material 2(nylon+modal) was statistically exerts higher influence on the amount of sweat. The humidity in clothes keeps the optimal condition of 59.8%, and breast part showed the highest relative humidity. The material 2(nylon+modal) showed the highest comfortableness, the sense of warmth, humidity and voluminousness, and the sense of pressure. Follow-up survey revealed that in case of material 2, higher amount of sweat than that of the group objects in its early phase, and the amount of sweat varies from individuals. The temperature in clothes of folded parts of experimental clothes and maximum surface temperature was equivalent to that of average skin. With the lapse of time, the weight decreased of 11.03% in maximum, and 3.12% in minimum. The amount of change in the girth was greater in part of body frame than that of limbs, and especially, navel and waist part showed high decrease, and upper breast, breast and the largest part of abdomen showed relatively low decrease. The above experiment revealed that materials for suitable to the underwear for sports for loss of weight by an exercise should be made of doubled-nylon and modal, along with the laminate processing, which heightens the amount of sweat. Thus, wearing an experimental wear gave satisfaction in the view of the beauty of appearance as it did not discharge flowing secretion to the outside at the time of exercise.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.57-76
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• 1997

The maun purpose of this study os review and analyze the differences, among clothing terms, between the biblical definitions of the underwear terms and those used by the public in day-to-day life. According, the biblical definitions of the underwear terms which are widely used by the various literature are summarized. Also, the degree of recognition of the underwear terms by the public is studied by analyzing the results of the questionnaires which are distributed to 217 female college students, as the objects of data, who reside in Seoul metropolitan areas. As a result of this study, we find the following conclusions : First, there are considerable differences in definitions of the underwear terms between those used by the various literature and those used by the public. The personal definitions of the underwear terms, or alternatively those used by the public, are very reduced and limited and even misunderstood in some cases. Second, the definitions of the underwear terms which are actually used by the public are recognized mostly by the wearing goals, the wearing spaces, the wearing times, the wearers, the forms and the materials and, among others, the wearing goals are the most dominating factor for the recognition of the underwear terms. Finally, the comparison among the similar underwears reveals that underwears are recognized by the wearing goals, the wearing spaces, the wearers, the forms and the materials. But, the objects of data recognize the underwear terms in very limited and simple fashion instead of having definite recognition of the differences among similar items.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.261-271
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• 2000

In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제51권5호
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• pp.563-571
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• 2013

This study aimed to investigate the effects of somatotypes and body-related variables such as body exposure and body satisfaction on underwear evaluative criteria. Usable questionnaires were obtained from a total of 250 male and female students in their 20s. The data were mainly analyzed by t-test, ANOVA and analysis of variance using SPSS ver. 21.0. The results of this study are as follows: First, differences between underwear and outerwear evaluative criteria were found. For example, size, comfort and washing were important for the underwear but design, brand and fashionability were meaningful for outerwear. Price, color, material, and sewing were important for both outerwear and underwear. Second, the groups divided by somatotypes, a thin person group, a moderate person group and a fat person group, showed no difference in underwear evaluative criteria. Members of all the somatotype groups evaluated underwear similarly. Third, the groups divided by body image distortion showed different evaluative criteria for underwear. The negative discordance group emphasized the importance of the practicality factor, but the positive discordance group stressed the significance of the symbolism factor. Finally, the groups divided by body exposure and body satisfaction showed different evaluative criteria for underwear, too. The effects of socio-cultural variables on the underwear evaluative criteria proved to be significant.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.171-180
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• 1998

This is a study on the Men's Underclothes of Renassience Ages. The changes associated with the Tudor regime were sufficiently profound to afect the nature and purpose of underclothes. Ceasing to be merely a layer serving to protect the skin, they now began to assist the external costume of both sexes in expressing class distinction. In order to attract still greater attention, the edge of the shirt was ruffled at the neck, a decoration which soon developed into a separate accessory, the ruff. The waistcoat, which originally was an under-garment, was shown, when the doublet was taken off, en deshabille. Thus we see that for men in the sixteenth century the undergarment was no longer an obscure drudge, but was promoted to serve in the general mode of expressing what the whole costume so extravagantly announced ; and likewise to share in that extreme degree of the social superior. The pinched waist of both sexes was not so much for sex attraction, but to signify social superiority. In the period under considera-tion, then, from the Tudors to the end of the Jacobeans, the new function of underclothes was much the same for both sexes ; to exploit the grandeur of the costume as evidence of rank, and only by that indirect method to add to the wearer's sex attractions.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.65-71
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• 2007

This research is to explore relationship between the underwear shopping value and purchasing behaviors, as well as to figure out how the underwear store VM information has influence on consumers' purchase behaviors. Focus is placed on subdividing consumers into different groups according to underwear shopping value, and then verify whether VM information influences the consumer groups differently or not. This study, based on systematic understanding of an underwear consumption, will provide strategic suggestion to establish effective VM information of the underwear brand. The results of this study show that VM information is being utilized by the important clue when the consumers go shopping underwear. That's why the underwear brands should concentrate on developing VM by causing an interest and purchasing of consumers through corresponding with store's individuality and image. Also, the manner of performance should be related to brand image and theme reflected consumer's life style.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.75-85
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• 2005

This study analyzed the factors of change of women's underwear in the Renaissance, which had a sudden change of shape. First, the spirit of the Renaissance was focused on human-attached importance to glamorous beauty of the body and pursued the glamorous well-proportioned figure as the ideal of the human body. This expressed a woman's beautiful curved lines by reduction of their waist size and emphasis of breast and hip lines. It also created and emphasized one's physical figure, which is a characteristic of sex. Also the materials and size of underwear cleared up the classification of class. Second, through the development of weaving techniques, more textiles were produced, from linen, the most common material used, to silk in underwear and stomacher, and chemise, which was made more splendid be devising elaborate embroidery techniques. Third, as we know that the farthingale was devised in Spain and transmitted to France because of the prevalence of printing and trade, where it changed and developed to more convenient style, this shows that information interchange was active, and we can see the phenomenon that it is developing continually through the prevalence of printing and trade.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권4호
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• pp.574-582
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to investigate the clothing pursuit benefits of female consumers in twenties, and explain the differences in underwear purchase behaviors among them. For data collection, research questionnaires were responded by 232 female consumers living in Busan. The collected data were analyzed by the frequency factor analysis using SPSS 12.0 for Windows, the factor analysis using Varimax, reliability analysis, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and ${\chi}^2$-test. The results of this study were as follows: First, consumers' clothing pursuit benefit was drawn from six factors: Self-esteem, Individuality, Fashion, Brand, Practicality, and Price pursuit. The results of the factor analysis of clothing benefit were divided into four groups: Brand pursuit group, Fashion pursuit group, Self-esteem pursuit group, and Individuality/rationality pursuit group. Second, the results of analysing underwear purchase behaviors among clothing pursuit benefit groups showed significant differences in purchase motive, source of information, evaluation criteria, and purchase practices. The underwear purchase motives were significantly different in diversity purchase factor between the groups; sources of information used for underwear purchase were significantly different in the window display factor. The underwear evaluation criteria were significantly different among the groups in decoration and practicality factors, while purchase practices were significantly different among the groups only in underwear purchasing places.