• 디지털융복합연구
• /
• 제10권3호
• /
• pp.71-78
• /
• 2012

본 연구는 모브랜드로부터 상당한 거리가 있는 제품범주로의 브랜드 확장(비유사 브랜드확장)에 영향을 미치는 모브랜드의 컨셉과 사고방식의 주효과는 물론, 이들 변수간의 상호작용효과인 조절효과를 살펴보고자 하였다. 이를 위하여 속옷브랜드인 캘빈클라인(상징적 컨셉)과 보디가드(기능적 컨셉)를 모브랜드로 선정하였으며 확장제품으로는 지갑을 선정하였다. 연구결과 1) 기능적 브랜드컨셉보다 상징적 브랜드컨셉에서 브랜드 확장의 적합성 판단 및 평가가 높게 나타났으며, 2) 종합적 사고자들이 분석적 사고자들보다 브랜드 확장의 적합성을 높게 판단하고 호의적으로 평가하였다. 뿐만 아니라 3) 상징적 브랜드에서는 사고방식에 따른 적합성 판단 및 평가가 큰 차이를 보이지 않았지만 기능적 브랜드에서는 상대적으로 큰 차이를 보여 변수들 간의 상호작용 효과를 살펴볼 수 있었다. 이러한 연구 결과는 글로벌 시장 환경 하에서 기존의 브랜드컨셉을 고려한 다양하고도 실질적인 마케팅전략을 수행하는데 상당한 기여를 할 것이다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제19권2호
• /
• pp.255-268
• /
• 2011

This study carefully explored today's preferable beauty images, analyzed Korean adult purchasing trends of functional underwear and market analysis of the most popular items and their designs. Information and methods are based largely on reference book material as well as analysis of real domestic data. The paper's research timeline simply spans the last three years, as in accordance with project parameters. Helping improve body shape, foundation literally means 'substructur' and 'base'. The formativeness in these adult foundations typically has three main category classifications. First, natural modern image. This is where we find natural beauty including that which embodies a cool modern sense. Here, you can often see such patterns as either stripes and dots, or simply no patterns at all. Colors are green, red-brown, incarnadine, or khaki from a natural or basic human body color. Its products are marketed as both solid and durable eco-friendly materials, and lace-seethrough. Fashion's natural modern image is undoubtedly the most popular style purchase choice among both genders. Second, sweet romantic image. This mainly consists of two concepts : a sweet and romantic theme, and visual appeal. Patterns include flowers, lips, heart, stars, candies and various other appealing characters. Its main colors are pink, yellow, red, purple, and violet. Products are decorated with laces, frills and ribbons. Since only men's semi-girdles carry such designs, this fashion foundation is largely a women's world. While men show an obvious interest in foundation, they still mostly prefer the choice of natural modern images. Third, mystic sexy image. This is defined as all feminine images of mysterious and classic sexual beauty. Patterns are variously expressed as paisley, flowers, and geometric. Colors are largely purple, blue-green, royal-blue, cobalt, and black. Products are commonly decorated with beading, spangles, hot-fixes and so on. While this image can be found in all kinds of women's foundations, it typically appears only in men's corsets and girdles.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제5권4호
• /
• pp.12-31
• /
• 1997

This is a study on the changes of the ancient underclothes. Underclothing includes all such articles, worn by either sex, as were completely or mainly concealed from the spectator by the external costume. Functions of underclothes are follow ; to protect the body from cold, to support the shape of the costume, to cleanliness, to erotic use of underclothes and as a method of class distinction. Linen is the oldest as materials and cotton came into general use after the Restoration of 1660. We must suppose that woolen petticoat was at least as old as the Middle Ages and silk was rarely used until late in Victorian times. Until the middle of the last century underclothes were necessarily hand-made, and the absence of fit was noticeable until the introduction of man\`s drawers, fitting the leg, at the close of the eighteen century. Strings and ribbons were the fastenings for underclothes until the middle of the seventeenth century, when they were replaced by buttons. One outstanding example of the first type of figures is a Babylonian girl of about 3000 BC from Sumeria who wears that today would immediately be described as briefs. Female statues show no trace of anything being worn under the chiton, but there is literary evidenced that the Greeks. A band of linen of kid was bound round the waist and lower torso to shape and control it. It was known as the Zone or girdle. The apodesmos, meaning a band, breast band, occurs in a fragment of Aristophanes. A Roman mosaic shows female athletes wearing a bikini-briefs and bra in the fourth century AD. A similar band, called the mastodeton, or breast band, was also worn round the bust, apparently to flatten or minimise it, as in the 1920s, and not, to stress its curves. In Rome, too, women sometimes wore bands of material round the hips and bust-a cestus or girdle is referred to by the poet Martial and seems to have been similar to the zone, but wider, and the strophium, or breast band, is mentioned by Cicero.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제7권4호
• /
• pp.1-6
• /
• 2004

본 연구는 동서양 문물 이미지 사진에 대한 여대생의 선호도와 패션잡지에서 의류광고 사진에 등장한 모델의 동서양 국적에 따른 소비자의 긍정적/부정적 인식 정도의 영향을 조사하고자 하였다. 100명의 여학생이 설문에 응답해 주었으며 20개 사진이 자극물로 제시되었다. 자극물은 주택, 실내, 식품, 미인도, 음료수로 하고, 패션 광고사진으로는 남성복 정장, 여성복 정장, 여성복캐주얼, 여성복 속옷, 여성손목시계 등으로 하여 동서양 모델 사진을 각 1점씩 선택하였다. 여대생들은 간식과 미인도에서는 서양이미지보다 동양이미지를 선호하였으나, 패션잡지의 의류광고 사진의 광고에는 모든 경우에서 서양모델이 사용된 경우에 긍정적인 인식정도를 나타냈다. 이러한 사실로서 여대생의 서양이미지에 대한 인식은 긍정적이며 이것은 의류제품 브랜드의 소비자 선호도에 영향을 미칠 것을 추측할 수 있었다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제7권1호
• /
• pp.152-159
• /
• 2003

The considerations on the costumes of the past, which have been conducted to the present for the purpose of creating a new design, are not just a simple imitation, but playing a role as a re-creation of fashion. A corset, one of the underwear items, has an important role to exaggerate, emphasize, or modify the beauty of a human body. It also contributes to form a beautiful silhouette of the outerwear. Specifically, the role of a corset today is more than a physical modification: making an underwear into an outerwear; using detailed decorations or materials of an underwear in the part of other garments. In doing these, decorative functions of costumes have been more and more emphasized. Therefore, a study on the composition or design of a corset would be an important study on the garment item that reflects fashions required by this age. The significance of the study is in its potential to provide reference materials needed in creating new underwear designs or the designs that can be made into outerwear products, by trying and producing a corset of the past. To make the corset, the definition of underwear and the characteristics of a corset were explored based on the review of the materials in the foreign museums, relevant photographs, and literature. The corset was made after understanding its minute details and examining its patterns. Pattern drawing was carried out using a Pattern CAD. As an intial phase of reproducing the corsets in the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries, the scope of the present study was limited to the late Renaissance age, when corsets began to appear.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제8권2호
• /
• pp.37-45
• /
• 2006

Jean Paul Gaultier, debuted in 1970's and referred to as a bad boy in Paris fashion industry with his abnormal and ingenious ideas such as skirts for men, underwear outfit, etc, is a leading fashion designer. This study nay find its meaning from the fact that this study defines how the voluptuous beauty, one of the figurative beauties inherent in Jean Paul Gaultier's design, expresses in the movie costume and understands the world of the designer's fashion to provide a foundation to fashion designers who are looking for a new area where they can actively involve in. For the study, the 'The Fifth Element (1997)', in which the voluptuous beauty, Jean Paul Gaultier's representative figurative beauty, is fully revealed, and also it is his latest movie he participated in as costume designer, was selected and costume design is analyzed using DVD screen capture program. Also, this study reviewed his design with his collections from 1997 when he was invited to Haute Couture and began to actively perform his works down to date and also referred to numerous materials, fashion magazines, movie magazines, Internet data and etc. From the results of analyzing Jean Paul Gaultier collections, firs, the beauty he is pursuing is projected broadly in three types- the voluptuous beauty from clothing innovation, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature, the voluptuous beauty from exposure. Second, the movie ${\ulcorner}$The Fifth Element${\lrcorner}$ is well revealed the world of Jean Paul Gaultier's art presenting visual amusement and variety of attractions. Finally, the results of analyzing costume by characters say that the clothing innovation and the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Leeloo's costume, the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Korben Dallas's costume, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature on Zorg and Ruby Rhod's costumes are well shown respectively.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권3호
• /
• pp.169-183
• /
• 2004

This study attempts to understand women's underwear culture in the Later Chosun Dynasty, by investigating the kinds and constructions of them, which formed bulky and puffed silhouette of the lower half of the body. In the middle 17th century in Chosun, Confucianism settled down as fundamental idea of society, while whole country achieved considerable economic growth. As a result for upperclass women, female virtues was demanded more than any other period in Chosun. On the other hand, lower-class women including Kisaengs, had more freedom on their clothing behaviors. According to the literature on women's dress institutions and restrictions of the extravagance, the use of kinds of high-quality silk and false hair was criticized, compared to women's clothes in China. From this, one can see the luxury and affluence of women's clothes at that time, which also reflected in luxurious underclothes. Also, the movement of class, by economic development, led to changes in the costumes of middle-to-lower class women, relaxing restrictions on clothes. Underclothes included Bosomband(가슴띠; long sashes for bosom to wrap), Sokjucksam(속적삼), and Sokchogori(속저고리; Korean blouse, worn under the chogori) for upper garment, and Darisokkok(다리속곳; basic underwear like the panty), Soksokkot(속속곳; underwear paji to be wide of hem), Sokpaji(속바지;trouser front and back opening), Tansokkok(단속곳; large size underwear like Soksokkot), Noronpaji(너른바지; paji like the skirt or paji bulky than tansokkot,), Mujigi무지기; tiered skirt for underwear), and Daeshumchi'ma(대슘치마; Korean underskirt, shape hem as a pad into form) for lower clothes.

• 복식
• /
• 제50권4호
• /
• pp.165-180
• /
• 2000

Since fashion is considered to be a cultural product and belongs to the formative art as well, the changes in fashion reflect those of society. Modern fashion has emerged from the period when people would follow the popular fashion uniformly, and moved toward the age of diversity, expressing not only the inner desires and aesthetic sensibility of individuals but also the freedom from formality and traditional restrictions. This kind of changes in expression became important motives for modern dress design following the present cultural phenomena, and, so called "outerwearization" of the undergarment or "infra apparel" exemplifies this situation. Corset especially has been playing a vital role in exaggerating and emphasizing the beauty of female body and correction of its shape. Today, one can frequently witness corset in street fashion along with brassier, Its sister concept. This "outerwearization" of the undergarment is supplanted as a syndrome, and it is defined as "supra syndrome" using "supra" as the opposite meaning to "infra". This unique phenomenon of modern fashion cannot be explained by a single social aspect, but as a mixed state of eroticism, fetishism, feminism, demonstrationists and expressionism among several current phenomena. The advent of "supra syndrome" and its cultural background were illustrated and stand-out "supra syndrome" exhibited by many world-renowned designers were analyzed in this study. As the result of study, six design pieces were developed and produced in three groups, based on different corset motifs. This study reaffirms that creativity of design is limitless and the imaginative abilities alone cannot accomplish higher level of design and development of works of fashion unless they are accompanied by the understanding of historical background, periodical circumstances and cultural phenomena. In this study, utilizing the modern apparatus such as computer and the advent of the modern technology was also found helpful in creative fashion design process.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권8호
• /
• pp.991-1005
• /
• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제15권2호
• /
• pp.294-301
• /
• 2013

Sustainable fashion & textile is more than eco fashion & textile with the concepts for the next generation's happiness, prosumer value, and community responsibility. This study considers methods to enhance fashion and textile industry sustainability in accordance to clothing types (material, product life and washing properties) and to investigate company strategies. Company strategies are of redesign with stock, volunteering & measuring trash amount, participation by evaluation stores, clerk environment education, hiring QC specialist and reinforcing partnerships. For the case of daily innerwear, throwing away and recycling is more efficient for the environment than laundering in the consumer use stage; subsequently, we recommend the use of polypropylene fiber (a cheap and an eco-friendly material) for this item that can be recycled and reformed after use. For the case of single layer clothing (such as sportswear, blouse or pants) we recommend the use of thermoplastic materials with welding or fuse assembling technology instead of a sewing method of seams as well as the recycle design that is simply melted and reformed into new clothing without an after use dissembling process. Secondhand use or resale is suitable for denim/jean items if the clothing has a storytelling or private history tag. Lastly, module-type jacket or coat shows the variety of styles with one clothing worn w/o collar or sleeve details and changed into vest/coat; in addition, it is possible to add or partly tear off some jacket/coat fibers of the felt material to reform it into a new design.