• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.28-28
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 한국 특산종으로 남해안 섬에서만 자라는 황칠나무(Dendropanax morbifera Lev., 황칠이라고 함)를 사용하여 염색하였다. 황칠나무는 면역력 증진, 신경 안정, 항균, 항산화에 효능이 있는 것으로 알려져 있다. 황칠염색은 $60^{\circ}C$에서 이루어졌으며, 발효한 액체 황칠을 염료로 사용하였다. 매염제에 따른 염색을 실시하고 CCM을 사용하여 색발현 특성을 알아보았다. 면직물의 경우 대조직물의 K/S값이 0.13에 비해 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 동시매염, 고백반 선매염, 황수(영천지역의 약수) 후매염은 각각 1.53, 0.99, 1.62, 1.65, 2.21로 차이가 있었다. 울직물의 경우 대조직물의 K/S값이 0.48에 비해 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 동시매염, 고백반 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 선매염, 황수 후매염은 각각 2.61, 1.97, 3.20, 3.07, 4,59로 차이가 있었다. 견직물의 경우 대조직물의 K/S값이 0.30에 비해 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 동시매염, 고백반 식소다 동시매염, 고백반 선매염, 황수 후매염은 각각 2.06, 1.21, 1,77, 1.80, 3.23로 차이가 있었다. 황수 매염이 식소다나 백반 매염보다 효과가 있는 것을 알 수 있었으며, 매염의 순서에 따라서도 차이가 나는 것을 알 수 있었다.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.40 no.8
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• pp.99-105
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• 2002

This study was to investigate the natural dyeing materials in domestic, trials to detect new Inula Britannica. An appropriate dyeing condition ;was bath ratio 1:20, 50% (o.w.f.)conc., $80^{\circ}C$, 50min. The K/S values of silk fabric was the most efficient for the pre-mordanting method. The value of dyed fabric was mostly dark, for the mordanting, the chroma was best clear when using the Cr-mordant, color difference was distinct when using the Fe-mordant. The antimicrobiality of Inula Britannica itself appeared as a 6mm halo zone, dyed fabric was excellent with result of over 90% in mordant. In the case of dye fastness, the drycleaning and wet cleaning fastness was excellent, rubbing and perspiration fastness was improved, and light fastness was over level 2.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.19-27
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• 2002

This paper surveys the mordanting and dyeing properties of Sophora japonica L. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Sophora japonica L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Sophora japonica L. solution was 367.6mn, rutin solution was 365.6mn. The color of Sophora japonica L. solution was affected at pH 2 and pH 8~9. The optimum temperature to extract Sophora japonica L. was during 1 hour in 8$0^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were 10$0^{\circ}C$, 60min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by pre-mordanting treatment, especially Fe, Sn, Cr. In the case of Sophora japonica L. light fastness was increased by Fe mordanting. Perspiration fastness was better in acidic solution than that in alkaline solution. Fastness to rubbing and dry-cleaning were good in general.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.324-333
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• 2011

This study was accomplished for the purpose of developing a textile processing ingredient that is harmless to the human body and environment. The research method consists of dyeing cotton textiles by extracting the dye solution from ginseng. Then, chrominance, after treatment, antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio of cotton fabrics dyed with ginseng extracts were tested and results were examined. The research procedure involved first extracting the dye solution from the ginseng's by-product (fine roots) and then dyeing was effectuated differently according to the test samples temperature and dyeing time requirements. Brightness in all dye substances was lower in pre-mordanting. Beige color could be extracted from pre-mordanted samples. And dark orange from postmordanted samples. Color-festness was high in all samples. Most of samples show a big antibacterial ratio and deodorization ratio. Through this research it has been discovered that, when applied to textiles, Korea's ginseng extract possessed reproducibility features as a natural dye and a possibility to be used in cutting which plays a crucial role in hygienic processing. In addition, by using ginseng's by-product for dyeing processing as the dye solution, efficient application of resources and occurrences of no water waste damages were demonstrated and thus, proved to be environmentally-friendly. Specifically, through this experiment, it was found that saponin, ginseng's special characteristics, possessed excellent antibacterial odor repelling functions to clothing as well as the capability to prevent skin disease.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2010

To investigate natural dyeing properties of bast fiber, properties of pre mordanting dyeing of sappan wood, gardenia and gallnut such as K/S values, developed color, and fastness were evaluated. Silk showed the most increased K/S values by pre mordanting treatment when Fe was uses as a mordant. The optimized amount of Fe was 3%. The colors of sappan wood was a series of YR. After pre mordanting treatment with Fe, the colors of bast fiber of mulberry and silk showed a series of RP, and the color of cotton showed a series of Y. The color of gallnut was a series of Y regardless of pre mordant treatment. Sappon wood (YR), gardenia (Y), and gallnut (Y) showed various colors such as YR, R, and RP, respectively. Sunlight fastness was not improved by pre mordanting treatment. The effect of pre mordanting treatment was not good. Especially the treatment with Al showed poor sunlight fastness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.92-101
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• 2007

This research was carried out following the preceding research on natural cellulose fabrics dyed with extract of fresh african marigold petals. Dyeability on fabrics was tested by dyeing with wool and silk which are natural protein fibers. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants, examining the changes in the surface color, K/S value, and maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. Wool fabrics showed color tone of medium or less saturation and brightness, in dark yellow color series. An orange color of high saturation was only obtained by tin mordanting. Wool showed higher K/S value than cellulose fibers. In summary, marigold dye has more affinity for protein fibers. It showed better dye effect in wool than silk. The chitosan pre-treatment and pre-mordanting lowered the K/S value of wool, which showed that chitosan pre-treatment does not improve dye uptake. However, different from the dyeing carried out by pre-mordanting without pre-treatment with chitosan, more diversified colors could be obtained by mordants. Therefore, for the dyeing natural protein fibers with marigold extract, post-mordanting does not require chitosan pre-treatment. However, pre-mordanting with chitosan pre-treatment could implement diverse colors. Considering its dyeing behaviors which are similar in both natural cellulose and protein fibers, african marigold extracts can be evaluated as a stable and highly practical dye.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.135-145
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• 2017

In order to analysis on color difference of yellow natural dyes, I have dyed cellulose and protein fabrics. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. The results from these analyses are as follows : Bud of pagoda tree, Amur cork, and Curcuma showed greenish yellow color, Gardenia Jasminoides showed reddish yellow color. Barberry root showed reddish yellow color with post-mordanting method on cellulose fabric. Moreover, Dupioni silk was dyed in reddish yellow color by Barberry root and Rhubarb. In addition to Chroma index, Gardenia Jasminoides and Curcuma showed clear color overall. However, dyeing rayon and silk by Barberry root, and dyeing silk by Rhubarb showed clear color. Comparing all the results to actual dyed materials, Bud of pagoda tree had small dye uptake, and both ${\Delta}a$ and ${\Delta}b$ value were short which can't recognized the yellow color easily. Dye uptake of Amur cork and Gardenia Jasminoides was small just like Bud of pagoda tree. However, ${\Delta}b$ value order was Gardenia Jasminoides>Amur cork>Bud of pagoda tree. Therefore, Gardenia Jasminoides recognized reddish yellow because of big value of red color and yellow color. In case of Barberry root and Rhubarb which have larger dye uptake, Baberry root recognized yellow color on rayon only, and couldn't recognized yellow color on bleached cotton fabric, ramie, silk, and dupioni silk. Rhubarb recognized yellow color on rayon with pre-mordanting method only, but recognized silk and dupioni silk as brown like color. Moreover, we could not analyze color by dye uptake, Lab, and H(v/c) for Barberry root and Rhubarb. As a result, I think we need to attach color table for the research paper which handled the color of dyeing materials.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.186-193
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• 2005

This study was conducted to clarify the effects of different natural mordants and mordanting methods on the dyeing degree of silk using extracts from Coreopsis drummondii. Surface colors were shown as an order of descent Y in control, and an order of descent Y and YR treated by mordants. Extracts from Coreopsis drummondii was sufficient for the natural dyestuffs. $10\%,\;20\%\;and\;30\%$ mordants made from lime-juice of Camellia japonica, oyster shells. and Symplocos chinensis (Lour) Druce for. pilosa (Nakai) Ohwi were used for the dyeing of silk. Surface color of silk was not affected by the concentration of mordants and mordanting methods, however, $20\%$ mordant was suitable for the dye coloring. It was shown that dye coloring concentrations were highly in the order of mordanting later > mordanting ahead > co-mordanting, and so on. Silks were naturally dyed by the extracts from Coreopsis drummondii, and twenty-nine kinds of natural mordants were treated and screened. Surface color of silk was shown as an order of descent YR treated by the mordants made from the lime-juice of Camellia japonica and Eurya japonica, and as an order of descent Y by the other mordants. By the treatment of natural mordants, concentrations of dye coloring were significantly increased compared with control (none-mordanting), and the potentials as a natural mordant for the effective dye coloring was sufficiently ascertained.