• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.10
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• pp.1801-1808
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• 2001

본 연구는 노년여성을 위한 의복 원형을 설계하기 위하여 60∼80세 의 노년여성을 대상으로 직접 계측을 실시하여 체형을 유형화하고 동작에 따른 체표면 특성을 분석하였다. 인자분석을 실시한 결과 상반신 비만요인, 높이요인, 상반신 앞면길이, 어깨 형태, 상반신 뒷면 길이, 어깨 경사도, 목형태, 진동깊이의 8개 인자가 추출되었다. 군집분석에 의한 체형분류 결과, 유형 1은 상반신의 골격이 가장 작고 왜소하며 가슴의 하수가 작은편의 앞으로 굴신된 체형이며, 유형 2는 키가 작고 보통인 체형으로 상반신의 앞뒤면 길이가 짧으며 가슴의 하수가 크고 어깨가 넓고 약간 앞으로 숙여진 체형이다. 유형 3은 키가 가장 크고 등과 어깨가 두꺼운 골격이 큰 체형이다. 유형 4는 키가 약간 크고 마른 체형에 상반신 앞면길이 인자가 큰 유형으로 약간 뒤로 젖혀진 체형이라 할 수 있다. 동작에 따른 체표면의 변화를 델마토그래프법 (Dermatograph method)에 의해 측정 한 결과, 가로 방향에서 동작에 따라 유의한 차이를 나타낸 기준선은 뒤목점-어깨끝점길이, 어깨 길이 및 앞가슴둘레선, 후액와선이며, 세로 방향에서는 어깨끝점-BP-허리중심점, 어깨중심에서 앞허리선까지의 앞길이 및 옆선길이로 나타났다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.04a
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• pp.198-200
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• 2008

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.17-28
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• 1999

This study was to analyze factors of the body form and factors of bodice pattern through a surface developement figure for the tight bodice pattern design. Fifty replicas of the trunk surface were made by applying a surgical tape method of female subjects between 18 and 24 years old. The result was as follows: 1. The gaps between direct measurements and measurements of the surface development figure were regarded as allowances for the tight bodice pattern. 2. There are four factors of body form selected by factor analysis. The 1st factor signifies th degree of fatness in the upper body. The 2nd factor signifies the length of the upper body. The 3rd factor signifies the part of the front shoulder. The 4th factor signifies the part of the neck. 3. There are high correlations between center back line of the surface development figure and back length line side line front length line back neck depth back upper chest depth. There are high correlations between back bust line of the surface development figure and back interscye breadth line back upper chest line back armhole line. There are high correlations between front bust line of the surface development figure and front upper chest line front interscye breadth line front armhole line front neck breadth 4. The regression expressions of measurements of the surface development figure of the upper body were analyzed as(Fig. 3).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.349-361
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to develop bodice basic patterns fitted on different body types of adult women. To meet this purpose, first, human bodies were measured using tight fitting technique and classified based on the shapes of upper trunk. The subjects were 214 women $20{\sim}39$ years of age. For the measurement of female upper trunk, tight fitting technique was utilized. The development of figures of upper trunks were obtained from women. These development of figures were then digitized and analysed using the PAD system. A total of 155 measurements were taken from each of the development of figures. then, 32 measurements were selected for the further analysis. As complimentary data, 22 direct body measurements using an anthropometric method and 23 body measurements using a photographic method from the side view pictures of the participants were also obtained. The results and discussions of this study are as follows: Using the body measurements from the development of figures, a factor analysis and a cluster analysis were conducted. As a result, the body types were classified into 5 different types, which differ in terms of bust volumes, shoulder slopes, shoulder tilts, back silhouettes, body axises. The prominent characteristics of each type are as follows: The first type has a large bust volume. The second type has a right figure. The third type has a rounded back silhouette. The fourth type has a back silhouette of scapular coming backward. Finally the fifth type has a shoulder tilted forward.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.277-285
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• 2012

This research studied how to develop tight upper sportswear from 3D scan data considering fabric stretch property. Subjects were five Korean men of average figure in their 20's. Scanning was done for ten postures via vitus smart/pro(Techmath LTD). Analyzing from 3D scan data, more than 70% of the upper body surface showed surface change rate under 20%. It was shoulder and under arm side part that showed most noticeable body surface change when moving. A parametric model with convex surface was generated and flattened onto the plane, resulting 2D pattern. The error rate occurring in the process of 3D to 2D conversion was 0.2% for outline and 0.13% for area, respectively. Thirteen kinds of stretchable fabrics in the market were collected for this study. Stretch property was in the range of 16.0~58.2% for wale direction; 23.1~78.4% for course. Based on wear trial test, four fabrics were chosen for making the 1st experimental garment and finally one fabric was chosen for the 2nd one, which was developed applying 4 kinds of crosswise reduction rate on 2D pattern: 0, 5, 10, and 15%. Through wear trial test and garment pressure measurement, experimental garment applied with 10% pattern reduction rate was evaluated as most comfortable and considerable.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.203-214
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to classify the upper body of women into several kinds of somatotypes, using the method of Surgical Tape and making their shells. The subjects are 53 females 30 to 39 years-old. Fifty-three anthropometric data are measured per shell of bodysurface; six somatotype factors are obtained through principal component analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax, Somatotype of women's upper body is achieved by cluster analysis, using the standardized factor score as an independent variable and the FASTCLUS of SAS by Kmeans. The results are as follows: 1. The number of the factors which explain the somatotype is six and those factors comprise 76.12 percent of total variance. Factor 1: related to the size of shape in the front of upper body Factor S: related to the size of shape in the back of upper body Factor 3: related to the type of the upper chest over the chest circumference line Factor 4: related to the length of·the upper body Factor 5: related to the part of the neck Factor 6: related to the type of the lower chest under the chest circumference line 2. Cluster analysis results in classification of upper body into five clusters. Cluster L: the length is the largest and the circumference is small. The part of waist is the largest and widest among surface areas. Cluster 2: Slender body line from chest to waist is characteristic. The length is longer. The part of upper and lower chest is larger among surface areas. Cluster S: the circumference is the smallest and armhole is small. The length and surface area are small. Cluster 4: the circumference and armhole is the largest. The length is the smallest. Cluster 5: the circumference is average and the length is a little long. The body line(silhouette) from chest to waist is curved slightly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.170-182
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to classify the upper body of women into several kind.; of somatotypes, using the method of Surgical Tape and making their shells. The subjects are 50 females 20 to 29 years-old. Fifty-one anthropometric data are measured per shell of body surface : eight somatotype factors are obtained through principal component analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax, Somatotype of women's upper body is achieved by cluster analysis, using the standardized factor score a.: an independent variable and the FASTCLUS of SAS by Kmeans. The results are as follows : 1. The number of the factors which explain the somatotype is eight and these factors comprise 81.63 percent of total variance. Factor 1 related to the degree of fatness in the front of upper body Factor 2 related to the degree of fatness in the back of upper body Factor 3 . related to the length of the upper body Factor 4 : related to the type of the upper chest over the chest circmference line Factor 5 : related to the armhole and neck Factor 6 : related to the type of lower chest under the chest circumference line Factor 7: related to the part of the back shoulder Factor 8: related to the depth of front neck and side dart of front independently 2. Cluster analysis results in classification of upper body into five clusters. Cluster 1 : the of circumference i.: lager and that of length is longer than the average The louver part of chest is the lagest and widest among surface areas. Cluster 2 : the circumference is the smallest , the length and surface area are small. The upper and lower chest is small Cluster 3 : the length and surface area are the smallest , the circumference is average. The body line (silhouette) from chest to waist is curved slightly.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.63-77
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• 1992

The purpose of this study is to improve clothing construction by analyzing form variation of upper trunk & upper arms with the use of plaster cast. Experimental research was performed by plaster gypsum method. The subjects were males between age 21 and 25, classified Standard somatotype by their bust size and Rorher Index. Arm movements were consisted of 5 types(0$^{\circ}$, 45$^{\circ}$, 90$^{\circ}$, 135$^{\circ}$, 180$^{\circ}$) to each vertical motion in front. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation, repeated mesure design. The result obtained from this study were as follows; 1. As a result of investigating into the rate of the expantion and contraction of basic body-surfact-lines, the side seam length showed the maxium rate of expantion in 180$^{\circ}$ degrees, the shoulder length showed the maxium contraction in the same degrees. 2. The variation of the upper part of the body form by increasing the upper limb motions, shoulder point was moved to be the inside or upside. And the anterior armfit point, posterior armfit point and armfit point were moved to upside. The form of the armhole-line in Drafts of a body surface was differently changed by increasing the movements. 3. Increasing the upper limb motions, the height of sleeve cap decresed and width of the sleeve decreased but girths of the sleeve cap was not show consistant change.