• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.261-265
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• 2002

To propose a basic material that can improve the crumples in the knee area and can be applied as an element of garment design, the present study examined the elongation rates of the samples by differentiating the number of cutting lines according to the direction of the fabric, and then determined the puckering phenomenon by judging the conditions of the seams based on the looks of seam lines after bi-axil elongation. After the subjective evaluation on the knee areas of both the standard and modified trousers, the following conclusion was drawn : The elongation rates of the samples are: warp (3.98%)cross-legged (-0.2)>squatting down (-0.4); those in the modified trousers feel more comfortable when sitting on a chair (0.2)>cross-legged (0)>squatting down (-0.6). In the cross-legged posture, the modified trousers (0) has higher scores in the subjective evaluation than the standard ones (-0.2). The evaluation on the looks of needleworks in the samples with cutting lines along the direction of the fabric: weft2 (5.0)

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.778-789
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. Mixed components of flavonoid and tannin seem to be the components of guava leaf extract. The temperature and time for dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3. Fe-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. High K/S values were shown in the post-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $40^{\circ}C$ and the pre-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $90^{\circ}C$. After repeated dyeing and mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatment. Surface colors were changed to YR color in alkaline water extract and to Y color in acidic water and ethanol extract, respectively. The washing fastness was level 3-4 for Sn-mordanted fabrics and level 4 for Fe-mordanted fabrics, and the dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory with level 3-4. The light fastness was above level 4 only when Fe-mordanting was conducted, and the rest of dyed fabrics was not fast enough. In the antibacterial activity, the powder of guva leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity and Staphylococcus aureus showed 99.6% in dyed fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.453-459
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to provide the basic knowledge to determine the proper seam finish according to the design of sewing products. Four seam finishes(no seam finishes, over-edged seam finishes, turned-and-stitched seam finishes, and bias-bound seam finishes) were constructed with seams in warp, weft and bias directions of the fabric. Using a drape measurement system involving two 18cm diameter supporting disks and a digital camera, the images of draped specimens were captured and processed. Drape behavior was evaluated in terms of drape coefficient, node number, and drape profile. Drape coefficients of the fabrics increased with seam formation and varied by the seam finishes, however no significant differences in drape coefficients by the seam finishes were observed on the heavier fabric. Node numbers of heavier fabric were more deeply affected by the seam finishes than those of lighter fabric. The specimens with turned-and-stitched seam finishes and bias-bound seam finishes showed significantly smaller node numbers compared to the specimens with no seam finishes and over-edged seam finishes on heavier fabric. The length of the seamed part showed positive correlation with the weight of the specimens and negative correlation with the number of nodes in each seam direction. The maximum length of all draped specimens was found in the same direction as the seam direction. In the case of the lighter fabric, the seam and the seam finish had a great influence on the shape of the draped profile.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.242-248
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• 2008

This study was aimed to find whether the Chelidonium majus which grows naturally in Korean soil and has a various medical ingredient is valuable as a natural dyeing material and to examine the functionality of Chelidonium majus extract. As the test result of dyeing colorfastness, colorfastness to sunlight was 1st grade for all the dyed fabrics. The colorfastness to laundry for discoloration showed from 1st to 4th grade and that for discoloration showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to perspiration, rubbing, and drycleaning showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. In the result of antibiosis test, the dyed cotton fabric showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli evenly when washed one, three, and five times, The dyed silk fabric, when washed one, three, and five times, showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus, but didn't showed the significant bacteria reduction. As the test result of sun protection test, in the case of the cotton fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one-time washing, S.P.F.(Sun Protection Factor) showed 20.4, the interception rate of UV-A showed 94.3%, and that of UV-B showed 95.2%. After five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 14.3, the interception rate of UV-A showed 90.0%, and that of UV-B showed 93.2%. In the case of the silk fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one time washing, S.P.F. showed 30.5, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.9%, and that of UV-B showed 96.9%, after five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 31.0, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.6%, and that of UV-B showed 96.7%.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.462-468
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• 2014

This study investigates the dyeability of soybean protein fabric after dyeing with gallut. In this study, the colorants of gallnut were extracted with boiling water at $60^{\circ}C$ and 60min. Soybean protein fabric was dyed with extracted solution from gallnut according to concentration, temperature and time. After dyeing with gallut solution, dyeability (K/S) was obtained by CCM observation. Al, Cu and Fe were employed as a mordanting agents. Various color changing were produced by the interactions of mordants that were different from soybean protein fabric; however, Al mordant was not indicated as a variable color change. Fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Consequently, the dyeability of the soybean protein fabric dyed with gallut showed reasonable results at 100% o.w.f, $90^{\circ}C$, for 60min. Fastness to washing according to concentration indicated good result as more than grade (4-5) in general. Fastness to light was almost the same compared to fastness to washing at all concentrations. Fastness to washing according to mordants indicated good grade (4) in principle at Al, Cu, and Fe; in addition, fastness to light indicated a good grade too. Fastness to light also indicated the highest dyeability at Fe mordant. This study shows that gallut is a reasonable dyestuff to soybean protein fabric and that it is possible to manufacture a variety of products that use soybean protein fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.286-293
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• 2013

This study investigates the attachment of glycyrrhizin to fabric using an X-ray photoelectron spectrophotometer( XPS). XPS spectra analysis showed that carbon content on treated fabrics with 0.2% glycyrrhizin increased to 2.699% for silk, 2.829% for nylon, 1.505% for cotton, respectively. The results show that glycyrrhizin is absorbed on treated fabrics. The glycyrrhizin extraction method makes radix glycyrrhizae powder 10g treat the first and the second treatment with ethanol, remove impurities on $75^{\circ}C$; subsequently, it is treated for 10 hours with ethanol 75% on $85^{\circ}C$ and lyophilizated. As the result, glycyrrhizin is extracted 1.7g in GL-I, 1.1 g in GL-II. As the result of abstracting glycyrrhizin with two methods, pure glycyrrhizin was abstracted 45.9% in GL-I, 74.9% in GL-II. GL-I, GL-II; in addition, glycyrrhizin( Japan) on TLC plate was separated in Rf 0.6. By GL-II extract method, this experiment obtained glycyrrhizin 15 g treated in a bath ratio set to 1: 100. Silk fabric was treated at $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min. in, nylon fabric $10^{\circ}C$, 70 min., and cotton fabric $30^{\circ}C$, 80 min.; subsequently, silk, nylon, cotton fabrics showed a 99.9% antibacterial activity for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• 한국산업융합학회 논문집
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.11-17
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• 2005

This study was performed to analysis the operation process when fabric pattern design was done by the use of CAD system compared with the manual work in order to determine the operation efficiency with the application of fabric design CAD system. The results of the study were as follows: 1. since 160,000 colors were supported by CAD system, color proposed by consumer was able to match exactly according to the its design. However, exact color matching was not possible by manual work. 2. Woven state of back of pattern design could be identified simultaneously with face of it for CAD system, while face and back of the fabrics should be designed separatedly in case of manual work. 3. Since the combination of warp and filling yarn was compatible with the fabric density in one repeat unit in CAD system, exact size of pattern design to be woven was able to expressed. 4. Only simple graphical expression by manual work was seen, while with the CAD system, texture and shade effect as well as graphical expression could be expressed and so fault could be reduced in advance with the simulation of actual feeling of fabrics in the screen. In conclusion, when CAD system will be introduced to the textile industry, operation time of designing pattern can be reduced. Since the operation is easy and simple, a beginner can operate CAD system easily. Thus, production and wage costs can be saved and this can be related directly with the improvement of productivity which is the main purpose of introducing CAD system.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.56-62
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• 2005

Fancy Yarn has developed diverse textures in fabrics, reducing the time in yarn and fabric production or apparel making in order to develop creative goods. In this study aimed to propose the use of a 4D box system to make fancy yarn shapes with loops, knops and spirals and the like. The change in texture was analysed and simulated to produce a suitable fabric image by using the fancy yarns fabric. The results are as follows. The plain weave, 2/2 basket weave, 2/2 twill weave, 2/2 2 complete broken weaves, and 5 harness sateen weaves were woven and a fabric image formed. In the case of the loop and the knop yarns fabric image, compared to the twisted fabric image the surface was covered by loops or some parts became partially black. In the case of the spiral shape it showed pattern continuity in spiral shapes 1, 2 and 3. The more twisted spirals produced a diamond shaped pattern or a twill line and a herring bone shaped twill line. An evenly distributed black fabric image appeared in 5 harness sateen weave. For the loop shape the broken weave or 5 harness sateen weave was produced; basket weave and broken weave for the knop yarn 1 or knop yarn 2; and for the spiral shape a plain fabric or 5 harness sateen weave were produced much similar to the fabric image. The surface texture of the mapped image compared to the twisted fabric image produces fancy yarn fabric images covered with loops or irregular spots caused by the knop and the spiral. Therefore it is appropriate or suitable for the simulation of tweed or woolen wool fabrics. The fabric image which produced consistent and continuous lines is therefore more suitable for simulations of twill or herringbone fabric images.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.79-85
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• 2002

To develope natural dyeing materials from the unused plant materials, we had several dyeing experiments to investigate the optimum conditions of dyeing fabrics with the waste grape juice. Dyeing experiments were done under different dyeing conditions of dyeing time, dyeing temperature, pH and concentration of dyebath and mordants which were treated after dyeing. Experimental fabrics were silk, cotton, ramie and hemp. Color difference(${\Delta}E$) and Munsell's HV/C of the dyed fabrics and color fastness of silk dyed fabrics to dry cleaning, washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were measured. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were very slightly increased with dyeing time and the color of dyed silk was light purple and the cotton, ramie and hemp was light red purple. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color became lighter with dyeing temperature increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were decreased and the color changed from light purple to blue with the pH of dyebath increased. The color differences of dyed experimental fabrics were slightly increased with the concentration of dyebath increased. The color of dyed fabric changed with the mordant treatment and were different among the experimental fabrics. On the whole, blue tone increased with the Al and Fe mordant and green tone increased with the Cu mordant. The color fastness of dyed silk fabrics to light, washing (change) and perspiration (change) was bad and color fastness to dry cleaning and rubbing were good.