• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.15-19
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study was to determine the thermal characteristics of men's suits ensembles and their fabrics. For the study, 100% wool fabrics were woven with various fabric structure, fabric density and yam count and With the use of these, 12 men's suits were made with the same design. Physical characteristics that affect thermal transport properties, including drapery, cover factor; bulk density, keeping warmth ratio, vapor permeability, air permeability and porosity of the fabrics were measured. In addition, thermal resistance of men's suit ensembles, including Y-shirts, inner wear and socks was measured on the thermal manikin in the environmental chamber. The result of the study was as follows: 1. In terms of fabric structure, keeping warmth ratio of plain woven fabrics was higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics and also, vapor and air permeability and porosity of plain woven fabrics were higher than those of twill and satin woven fabrics. 2. The result showed that thermal resistance of 12 ensembles were in the range of 0.77clo~0.97clo. 3. There was little correlation between woven condition such as, including structure, fabric density and yam count and thermal resistance of ensembles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.1 no.4
• /
• pp.387-392
• /
• 1999

The effects of the ratio of warp diameter to filling diameter (${\beta}$-ratio) and warp thread crash on the crimp factor and the yarn curvature were studied theoretically in this paper. The models of 2/2 twill fabric derived square cloth and sinusoidal curved cloth were used for the theoretical analysis. The crimp factors (C) for the models were given theoretically as follows; (1) Derived square cloth(general equation for b) $$C=\frac{(1+{\beta})({\theta}-sin{\theta})}{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}+{\alpha}}$$ (2) Sihusoidal curved cloth $$C=\frac{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}\[1+\{\frac{{\pi}(1-cos{\theta})}{4sin{\theta}}\}^2\]+{\alpha}}{(1+{\beta})sin{\theta}+{\alpha}}-1$$ The curvatures(${\kappa}$) for the models were given theoretically as follows; (1) Derived square cloth $${\kappa}=\frac{2}{d_w+d_f}$$ (2) Sinusoidal curved cloth $${\kappa}=\|{^{\;\;\prime\prime} \atop r}(s)\| \\ where \;s=\frac{p^'}{{\pi}}\(u+\frac{k^2u}{4}+\frac{k^2}{8}sin2u\)$$.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.10 no.4
• /
• pp.537-543
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the comfort and fabric hand characteristics of selected lining fabrics made of acetate and polyester. The comfort of the linings was determined by human subjects wearing suit blazers constructed with different lining materials in an environmental chamber controlled at $30.6^{\circ}C$ air temperature and 50% relative humidity. The hand characteristics of the lining fabrics were determined by five trained panelists using standard fabric reference samples. The effect of lining fabrics on the subjects' thermal sensations was not statistically significant. But the subjects voted warmer when wearing the polyester surah lined blazer or the polyester taffeta blazer than wearing the acetate blazers. The results of the subjective comfort evaluation indicated that, in general, the subjects rated the acetate linings significantly less sticky, clammy, damp, and non-absorbent than the polyester linings. Acetate surah was rated a little higher than the other acetate fabrics on these comfort descriptors. The results of the subjective hand evaluation indicated that the lining fabrics rated low on the geometric and mechanical hand characteristics and rated moderate on noise. Acetate surah scored the highest on most of the hand characteristics, whereas, polyester taffeta scored the lowest.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.4
• /
• pp.445-449
• /
• 2007

The results of warmth retaining, heat transfer and compressive elastic recovery of the five kinds of bedspread fabrics, which were produced from packing weft of 2700 denier and 3600 denier batt yarn treated with raw material of Polyester $150^D$/48 DTY, are as follows: 1) 3600 denier packing weft showed lover count in compressive elastic recovery than 2700d packing weft, so it took longer time to recover. 2) When packing weft of the same count is used, a sample of packing weft with higher density showed lower recovery. 3) It took 2700d packing weft 30min to get approximately 98% recovery in temperature $30^{\circ}C$. But, 3600d packing weft stayed under 98% recovery in the same temperature. Considering only the result of compressive elastic recovery, we should use 2700d packing weft. 4) The higher the density of packing weft is, the higher warmth retaining becomes. Although sharp increase appeared until 5min, equilibrium was kept without any increase after that time. 5) When 2700d packing weft was used, the maximum warmth retaining was approximately 60% and 64% in the conditions of density 12(thread/in) and 22(thread/in) respectively.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.3 no.2
• /
• pp.105-114
• /
• 2001

The result of this study is on textile expressed in the costume of the Kazakh tribe, Kirgiz tribe, Tajik tribe. Basically the material of costume is fur, cotton flannel, felt, silk, cotton outwear, velvet cloth and beads, silver, earing, bracelet is used frequently. The tribes did embroider on the shoes, made of sheepskin or calfskin and collar, belt, button, pocket with the sketch of national trait. Eventually their cultures of costume seem to be very similar because of the resemblances in circumstance of nature, religion, custom of life but definitely they show conservatism in itself and independent culture. In the basic structure of traditional costume by races, there is no big difference. Then, in men, the trousers and the shirts of tunic type become the basic with the style which is convenient to act. And, to wear vest, or jacket, or chaban, over it makes a little difference. In women also, same structure shows with the form to wear vest or outwear, on the basis of one piece. But, in a small hat, head wear, color contrast, and decoration element etc., strict difference is showing. After all, they show very similar clothing life culture basically in natural environment, religion, and life habit etc., But, the discrimination is made in the detailed side. So, it can be said that they show the conservative nature of nationalities, and have preserved the unique identity of their own culture.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.6
• /
• pp.702-708
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing-property and antibacterial activity on nylon fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The maximum UV-visible absorption band of cochineal extract was 495 nm. The dyeability on nylon fabric was good because of having a amine group. The optimum dyeing conditions of nylon fabrics are dyeing concentration 1.5%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method is preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one is preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal are mordanting concentration of 0.5%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Nylon fabrics dyed with cochineal show a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Sn mordanting. MIC test results in antibacterial activities revealed that the antibacterial activity of Cu was the highest among mordants, but Sn mordant was the most effective in antibacterial activities after mordanting treatment of nylon fabric. The fastness properties of dyed nylon fabric showd a little worse or a similar level and there was no significant difference between a mordanted and non-mordanted fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.3
• /
• pp.474-480
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to prepare the hardness of polyester(PET) fabric by thermal bonding with low melting component of bicomponent fiber and to describe the change of physical properties of thermal bonded PET fabrics. The PET fabrics were prepared with regular PET fiber as warp and bicomponent fiber as weft. The bicomponent fiber of sheath-core type were composed with a regular PET core and low melting PET sheath. The thermal bonding of PET fabric was carried out in pin tenter from 120 to $195^{\circ}C$ temperature range for 60 seconds. In this study, we investigated the physical properties and melting behavior of PET fiber and the effect of the temperature of the pin tenter on the thermal bonding, mechanical properties. Melting peak of warp showed the thermal behavior of general PET fiber. However, melting peak of weft fiber(bicomponent fiber) showed the double melting peak. The thermal bonding of the PET fabric formed at about temperature of lower melting peak. The optimum thermal bonding conditions for PET fabrics was applied at $190{\sim}195^{\circ}C$ for 60seconds by pin tenter. On the other hand, the tensile strength of the PET fabric decreased with an increasing temperature of thermal bonding.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.791-799
• /
• 2014

For development of dyeability, the rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by padding mangle. The merit of padding-based dyeing was easier color reproduction over traditional hand dyeing where various colors and color fastness to light and laundering are hard to obtain. We evaluated the mechanical properties and hand value by Kawabata Evaluation system for dyed rayon fabrics. The results obtained from this study were as follows. With the increase of repeating padding times of dyeing, the linearity load-extension curve and tensile energy per unit length of the rayon fabrics were increased, but the tensile resilience of fabrics were decreased. The value of shear stiffness and shear hysteresis were increased. Also compression resilience and linearity of compression thickness were increased. The rayon fabrics dyed with persimmon juice had shown the thickness and weight increase as the number of padding increase. As repeating times of dyeing with persimmon juice were increased, among the 6 hand values, the item of koshi(stiffness) and Hari(anti-drape stiffness), fukurami(fullness and softness) were increased. while Shinayakasa (flexibility with soft feeling) and Shari(crispness) were greately decreased. The amount of coated persimmon juice on the surface of the fabric was gradually increased as the padding times of dyeing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.5
• /
• pp.637-646
• /
• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.18 no.6
• /
• pp.878-888
• /
• 2016

In this study, wool/nylon(50/50%) blend yarn and its fabrics for tra-biz(complex word of travel+business) garment were prepared, and its wear comfort characteristics were investigated through thermal manikin and human-body wearing experiment. In addition, tactile wearing performance from fabric mechanical properties and the dimensional stability and the pilling of the fabric specimen during wearing and dry-cleaning were measured and compared with those of wool 100% fabric specimen. Heat keepability of the wool/nylon(50/50%) blend fabric by thermal manikin experiment was superior than that of wool 100% fabric, this result was verified with human-body wearing experiment and its result coincided well with this experimental result. Tactile wearing performance of the wool/nylon(50/50%) fabric from fabric mechanical properties measured by FAST system was better than that of the wool 100% fabric. The dimensional stability of the wool/nylon(50/50%) fabric was more stable than that of the wool 100% fabric. Because relaxation shrinkage was lower and hygral expansion of wool 100% fabric was more high. However, the breathability and pilling property of the wool/nylon(50/50%) fabric were inferior than those of the wool 100% fabric. The possibility of application for tra-biz garment of wool/nylon(50/50%) blend fabric was observed because of good heat keepability, tactile wearing performance and washing fastness.