• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1995

A numerical shallow water wave deformation model to solve unsteady mild slope equation was develope(1. The energy equation of Izumiya and Horikawa(1984) for wave breaking and bottom friction was incorporated to estimate more realistically energy damping resulted from wave breaking and reflection. A numerical scheme for variable grid spacings was also introduced to complement the defect of unsteady mild slope equation limiting the grid spacings. This model was tested and compared with the existing analytic solutions and physical modelings, and applied to a practical situation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 1989

Theoretical studies have been made to analyze combined refraction diffraction of the wind waves propagating on a large scale current in water of varying depth. The governing equation for monochromatic waves was derived through splitting a mild slope equation into two equations. A numerical model is developed using finite difference scheme which is computationally very efficient for modelling large area. Numerical examples concerning the interactions between waves and rip currents over a gentle slope are presented, in which the current effects on the wave diffraction in the caustic region are closely examined.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.1 s.68
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• pp.63-68
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• 2006

Recently, it has been widely recognized that coastal vegetations may have great value in supporting fisheries, protecting from wave attack, stabilizing the sea bed and maintaining good scenery. Hydrodynamic factors play a major role in the functions of water quality and ecosystems. However, the studies on physical and numerical process of wave propagation are few and far behind compared to those on the hydrodynamic roles of coastal vegetations. In general, Vegetation flourishing along the coastal areas attenuates the incident waves, through momentum exchange between stagnated water mass in the vegetated area and rapid mass in the un-vegetated area. This study develops a numerical model for describing the wave attenuation rate in the complex topography with the vegetation area. Based on the numerical results, the physical properties of the wave attenuation are examined under various wave, geometric and vegetation conditions. Through the comparisons of these results, the effects of the vegetation properties, wave properties and model parameters such ac the momentum exchange coefficient have been clarified.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.27-33
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• 2008

One of the central problems in astudy of the coastal surface wave environment is predicting the transformation of waves as they propagate toward the shore. The transformation is mainly due to the existence of obstacles, such as breakwaters and vertical cylinders. In general, the types of wave transformation can be classified as follows: wave diffraction, reflection, transmission, scattering, radiation, et al. This research dealtwith wave transmission and dissipation problems for two dimensional irregular waves and vertical circular cylinders. Using the unsteady mild slope equation, a numerical model was developed to calculate the reflection and transmission of regular waves from a multiple-row circular breakwater and vertical cylinders. In addition, hydraulic model experiments were conducted with different values for the properties between tire piles and the opening ratio (distances) between the rows of the breakwater. It was found that the transmission coefficients decreased with a decrease in the opening ratio and an increase in the rows of vertical cylinders. A comparison between the results of hydraulic and numerical experiments showed reasonable agreement.

• Journal of Navigation and Port Research
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.341-347
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• 2008

Recently, it has been widely recognized that water-front and coastal vegetations may have great value in supporting fisheries, protecting from wave attack, stabilizing the sea bed and maintaining good scenery. Hydrodynamic factors playa major role in the functions of water quality and ecosystems. However, the studies on numerical and analytical process of wave propagation are few and far behind compared to those on the hydrodynamic roles of water-front vegetations. In this study, in order to express wave attenuation into water-front vegetation, a numerical model based on the unsteady mild slope equation is developed. This result is compared with an analytical model for describing the wave attenuation by assumed simple long wave condition. Based on both the analytical and numerical results, the physical properties of the wave attenuation are examined under various wave, geometric and vegetation conditions. Through comparisons between the analytical and numerical results, the effects of the vegetation properties, wave properties and model parameters such as the momentum exchange coefficient have been clarified.