• Geophysics and Geophysical Exploration
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.93-98
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• 2008

Abstract: Surface topography has a significant influence on seismic wave propagation in a reflection seismic exploration. Effects of surface topography on two-dimensional elastic wave propagation are investigated through modeling using a weighted-averaging (WA) finite-element method (FEM), which is computationally more efficient than conventional FEM. Effects of air layer on wave propagation are also investigated using flat surface models with and without air. To validate our scheme in modeling including topography, we compare WA FEM results for irregular topographic models against those derived from conventional FEM using one set of rectangular elements. For the irregular surface topography models, elastic wave propagation is simulated to show that breaks in slope act as a new source for diffracted waves, and that Rayleigh waves are more seriously distorted by surface topography than P-waves.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2009.02b
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• pp.126-126
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• 2009

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.12-23
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• 1995

Currents driven by irregular waves are modelled using numerical model with various empirical relations improved. Kitaigorodskii's equilibrium equation is refined to account for shoaling effect and used for checking the breaking condition. In order to compute the bottom friction realistically. equivalent roughness blights are estimated considering the ripple shape and bed load transport which may be significant the surf zone. Two sets of equations are employed to evaluate the ripple shape: one is suggested by Nielsen and the other by Madsen and Rogengaus. Both equations give similar shape of ripples. but Madsen et al. give lower value of ripple factor than Swart suggesting that the equivalent roughness becomes relatively small. Optimization technique is used to determine the proper values for the empirical parameters of $\kappa$-ι equations, and the longshore current velocity is computed using the values of empirical parameters determined by the optimization technique.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.491-504
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• 2013

In this study, wave breakings over a shelf region are investigated under irregular wave conditions through laboratory experiments in a wave flume. Numerical simulations based on the Boussinesq-type equations are also conducted. The characteristics of breaking waves such as significant wave height, crest and trough heights, the mean water level and the stable wave height are obtained by analyzing laboratory measurements in detail. Obtained results are compared with those of the Boussinesq-type equations model. A very reasonable agreements is observed. The broken waves over a horizontal bottom asymptotically approach a stable wave height($H_{stable}$). In this study, the relative stable wave height is found as $H_{stable}/h{\fallingdotseq}0.56$ for irregular wave.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.565-573
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• 2007

The effect of wave and current interactions on irregular wave transformation over a submerged elliptic shoal is investigated based on numerical simulations of the Vincent and Briggs experiment [Vincent, C.L., Briggs, M.J., 1989. Refraction-diffraction of irregular waves over a mound. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 115(2), pp. 269-284]. The numerical simulations are conducted by a combination of REF/DIF S(a wave model) and SHORECIRC(a current model) and a time dependent phase-resolving wavecurrent model, FUNWAVE. In the simulations, the breaking-induced currents defocus waves behind the shoal and bring on a wave shadow zone that shows relatively low wave height distributions. The computed results of the combined model system agree better with the measurements than the computed results obtained by neglecting wave-current interaction do. In addition, the results of FUNWAVE show a good agreement with the measurements. The agreement indicates that it is necessary to take into account the effect of breaking-induced current on wave refraction when wave-breaking occurs over a submerged shoal.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-94
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• 1996

Random wave breaking is one of the most important phenomena in coastal engineering. For two and half decades, various models have been proposed to predict wave height variations in the surf zone. However, some models are applicable to plane beaches only, some requires clumsy computation for a joint probability density of wave heights and periods, and some others need calibration with individual wave data. The present study aims at formulating a model simple enough but reasonably accurate. The merits of the present model are as follows: It is applicable to any shapes of bottom profiles; It requires the input data of incident wave heights and periods only without necessity of coefficient calibration with field data; and its computation time is minimal because it deals with representative waves directly.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.429-438
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• 2008

The present study is to predict the multidiretional random wave height at the front face and concave corner of a refracted breakwater which is not straight. The numerical simulation on wave height at the front face of an insular breakwater is performed by using the boundary element method, and obtained results have been compared with those of exact- and analytical solutions of the eigenfunction presented by Goda et al. (1971) and the other existing numerical solution. Also, the results of wave-height distribution due to the refracted breakwater have been validated through comparisons with previous results of analytical solution. Based on the validation through these comparisons, several wave-height distributions at the interested region have been illustrated for various conditions related with concave corner angles and the wave incidence, and then the prediction of wave height are simulated at the front face and concave corner of a refracted breakwater under construction currently. Excellent agreements have been obtained in all cases, and this study can effectively be utilized for predicting random waves for various breakwater system.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.151-158
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• 1990

Various factors may contribute on the mixing processes in the surf zone formed by irregular waves. The turbulence motion driven by wave breaking may be one of the major causes, the effect due to spatial variation on current velocity be a secondary one, and the additional process may result from the irregular superposition of radiation stresses or wave breaking dissipation incurred by random breaking waves in a broadened surf zone. In the present study a numerical model of spectral waves and induced currents was developed using a superposition technique with ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ closure for mixing process and applied to a field situation of longshore current generated by spectral waves on a uniform beach. It was found from the application that the surf-zone mixing processes formed by irregular waves can be well described by using ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ equations if the source of ${\kappa}$ is properly represented. The nonlinear energy transfer was also found to have some influence on the velocity profile of longshore current particularly in very shallow water region near coast.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.20-35
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• 2017

In the case of the seabed around and under gravity structures such as submerged breakwater is exposed to a large wave action long period, the excess pore pressure will be significantly generated due to pore volume change associated with rearrangement soil grains. This effect will lead a seabed liquefaction around and under structures as a result of the decrease in the effective stress, and eventually the possibility of structure failure will be increased. The study of liquefaction potential for regular waves had already done, and this study considered for irregular waves with the same numerical analysis method used for regular waves. Under the condition of the irregular wave field, the time and spatial series of the deformation of submerged breakwater, the pore water pressure (oscillatory and residual components) and pore water pressure ratio in the seabed were estimated and their results were compared with those of the regular wave field to evaluate the liquefaction potential on the seabed quantitatively. Although present results are based on a limited number of numerical simulations, one of the study's most important findings is that a safer design can be obtained when analyzing case with a regular wave condition corresponding to a significant wave of the irregular wave.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2016.05a
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• pp.163-163
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• 2016

선박의 대형화 등으로 인한 세계적인 항만들이 하역능력의 제고를 위하여 선박의 대형화, 고속화, 전용선화에 있어 큰 움직임을 보이고 있다. 또한 항만의 연간 작업가능일수 확보를 위하여 신항만 건설시 항 내 정온도 향상을 위하여 최적의 방파제 배치 및 최선의 소파기술에 대한 연구지원을 아끼지 않고 있다. 이뿐 아니라 최근 파랑 수치모형의 정확성이 향상되고 계산시간이 단축됨으로써 각 격자 상에 입력된 수심정보와 입사경계에서의 입사정보 경계면에서의 경계(반사율) 정보로부터 손쉽게 천해파랑 정보를 산출할 수 있게 되었다. 본 연구에서는 스펙트럼을 통해 각각의 파고와 주기를 추출하였으며, 쌍곡선형 완경사 방정식을 수치 해석하여 불규칙파의 설계파를 산정하였다. 또한 Matlab을 사용하여 전 프로그램이 toolbox화 됨으로써 운영하는데 편리하고 특히 다양한 지형의 적용에 용이하게 되었다. Matlab은 다른 언어와 달리 전 프로그램이 vectorizing 되어 계산시간이 상당히 단축되었다. 본 연구를 통해 실무자들이 항만이나 어항 등 연안해역 개발시 유의파고를 사전에 예측하여 연안해역 개발하는 데 큰 도움이 되리라 기대한다.