• 복식문화연구
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.485-499
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• 2012

This study suggests designs for fashion-cultural products that can communicate the uniqueness of Korean traditional culture. To this end, motives and printing patterns were created based on the formative beauty of traditional sewing crafts. A literature review was completed to identify characteristics of Korean traditional sewing, and the motives were developed through Adobe Illustrator CS4 and Adobe Photoshop CS4. Those motives were applied to handkerchiefs, neckties, pouches, and handbags. The sewing crafts used in this study included thimbles, bobbins, and chumoni (a Korean traditional pouch). The motives were produced in a manner that best exemplified the unique formative beauty of the sewing crafts while also presenting modern images of the crafts. The motives from thimbles reflected the lateral side of their originals, while the motives from bobbins adopted fan- or rectangular-shaped bobbins. The motives from chumoni were based on Duruchumoni and Guichumoni. A total of 12 motives were developed, and a total of 36 textile designs were suggested based on those motives. A total of 42 designs for fashion-cultural products, including handkerchiefs, neckties, pouches and handbags, were developed. Among them, motives applied to handkerchiefs were expanded to apply to scarfs, as well.

• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.98-112
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• 2014

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권4호
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• pp.705-725
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• 2015

A Beoseonbongip is a pouch that holds patterns for making Beoseons. This study aimed to identify the aesthetic and symbolic contents of the embroidery patterns by analyzing the kind, combination types, expression and arrangement types of patterns. In total, 140 Beoseonbongip artifacts, which were mostly made in the Joseon Dynasty, were quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. The results indicated that about 83% of the total had flower patterns. Various kinds of embroidery patterns used for Beoseonbongips were newly identified. About 73% of the total had different kinds of patterns. Pattern combination types were identified by the kinds of patterns, the number of paired patterns, and the traditional painting styles used. The patterns of Beoseonbongips were expressed schematically more than realistically or abstractly. Beoseonbongips with different patterns on the four triangle tips of the front face and Beoseonbongips with the same/similar patterns on two opposite tips of the front face were observed more than the other types. On the back face, the embroidery patterns were symmetrically arranged, showing various division structures. It was inferred that wishes (e.g., marital harmony, fertility, good health and longevity, happiness, and wealth and fame) were expressed through the symbolic patterns embroidered on the Beoseonbongips. In terms of Korean traditional beauty, the union with nature, the harmony of yin and yang, symmetric balance, and neatness were also emphasized as a esthetic characteristics of Beoseonbongips.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.270-282
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• 2002

This study was established to understand how Arte Povera has affected the contemporary fashion based on the analyses of its characteristics and may provide a prospective view to predict style of future fashions. The results were as follows : 1) “The poverty” shows such characteristics as patch work, intentional mismatch, and tendency to prefer slightly used style. This meaning can be explained as direct expression from a sense of alienation, against to consumer economy, and dual-expression between poverty and wealth. 2) “Anti-formativeness” can be described for misinterpretations of creation, arrangement, and informal silhouette due to distortion of the human body. This expression includes such meanings as against to traditionalism, ignorance of rationality, and disorganization of the concepts between the beauty and the ugly. 3) “Naturalism” indicates as characteristics of use of natural materials and primitive expression. This expression could be generated from adaptation to the nature and desire toward uncivilized society due to skepticism about modern society. 4) “Symbolism” shows such expressions as an isolated feeling from society, and metaphoric sense from specific situations because there are too many applications of imported materials. This tendency can be also explained with the creations of spaces for opened concepts through disorganizations of territory, obscurity, and irregularity.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.98-110
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• 2009

This study has outlined and summarized academic meaning of formative characteristics of Organic Modernism represented by various aspects of design, art, industry and architecture, then has intented to define concept of Organic Modernism Fashion. Eventually, this study is to make a analysis of formative characteristics of Organic Modernism Fashion Design. Based on example of Organic Modernism applied to architectural structure, industrial products and pure paintings, this study has analyzed and researched into formative characteristics of Organic Modernism represented by fashion design. As a consequence of study, its characteristics are defined as below; The first, the beauty of simple formation using delicate curve. The second, the expression of symbolic formation based on surrealism. The third, the expression of continuous 3-dimensional curved surface. And the last characteristic is a providing transformable multi-function. Through those characteristics mentioned above, it may be expected to define a concept of Organic Modernism Fashion Design newly and to set a precedent for providing a basic criteria to classify formative characteristics of Organic Modernism Fashion Design.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.151-171
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.

• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.39-56
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• 2012

For a long time, architecture has functioned as something that is inevitable for humans, a necessity that provides housing settings and living spaces for human lives. In the creation of art, architecture is a genre that has a field of infinite possibilities of endless inspirations of the present and the future with its unimaginable various styles and functions. This study aims at analyzing the figurative formation and characteristic expression style of nude architecture with modern fashion design, reinterpreting it by a modern edge, and expressing it into an originative costume work. Furthermore, the purpose of this study is to provide a new motive for the potential of continuous development of modern fashion in the future through an endless study on artistic architecture that includes nude architecture and an originative expression style that will prepare a momentum that indicates the direction into a new line of fashion.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.116-132
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• 2008

Continuity and discontinuity is a relative concept, and there are various categories of the continuity and discontinuity in our circumference. In the thought of postmodernism of the late of 20th Century, continuous creations of the difference and the repetition have being regarded as a discontinuity. But, because of that catches the moment occurring qualitative skip though the flowing of the everlasting time, this has been known to a shortsighted viewpoint overlooking characteristic of the qualitative continuity of an organism, which have being created continuous formation for life through the flowing of the time. Therefore, this had studied like this complex social condition and various relationships expressed in modern fashion focusing on permanently creative movements and behaviors equal to the qualitative continuity. This Thesis is following study about continuity, and aims at understanding of those formative characteristics through consideration about characteristics of qualitative continuity. And, this analyzes formative characteristics of the qualitative continuity into 5 sets: enlargement, conversion, structural variability, mutual combination, and deconstruction. This thesis intends to grasp complex modern social phenomenon and modern fashion into qualitative continuity that means continuous formation and the change of various relationships according to recognition about the course toward open thinking.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.130-146
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• 2007

Thought of postmodernism accepted between variety and differentiation is characterized by variability and indeterminacy aimed at continuous change. For that reason, modern fashion has been grouping a lot of manners for creation of the various different form and structure. This paper studies the characteristics of the folding system, which expands efficiency of the spatial utility and shows various forms. Folding system expressed in modern fashion could be divided the pleats, which were made of the folding, and the dreaperies, which were made of bending. This selects the pleats as a enlarged concept of the folding system that contains between the former and the letter. Pleats did not mean two dimensional folding surfaces, but three dimensional spatial structures. For understanding of the folding system as a three dimensional spatial structure, this is utilized with the thought of the 'le pli' of G.W.Leifniz and G.Deleuze. The pleats expressed in modern fashion can subdivided into 4 sets; crinkle system, origami system, fractal pleats by folding system, and drapery system. And Formative characteristics of the pleats are analyzed with enlargement, fluidity, deconstruction, irregularity.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제15권6호
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• pp.1063-1077
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to comprehend the various range of expressions of fantasies and to summarize the expressive effects of fantasies that appear most commonly in today's popular culture such as film and fashion. The followings are the results of the research: Fantasy means a genre of literary arts, which uses magic and supernatural figures as the themes or plots. The characteristics of the expressive effects of the costumes in fantasy movies are summarized as metaphor and symbol, hybrid, otherness, grotesque. After analyzing the costumes in fantasy movies, it is concluded that these characteristics can be conceptualized as the characteristics of the expressive effects in the field of fashion and they can be used as the basis in setting the visual images. This research also aims at recognizing and predicting the fashion trend by understanding closely at the popular cultures, using the films as a tool, which can be led to examining the possibility of combining various popular cultures.