• 복식문화연구
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.776-792
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.198-206
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• 2006

Hypertext is a web form consisted of HTML(hypertext markup language) which is used in Internet. Hypertext in costume is the product of modem industrial society. Hypertext is not a mechanical technique that enlarges external capacity of human beings. It is rather a motif that extends the internal ability of human beings. It brings about the social innovation by extending the expression realm of costume and providing the various views of recognition. This study regards costume not as an artistic work but as a text which interacts in the open relationship of human body, society and culture and causes dynamic generation of meaning. This study distinguishes Plasticitic Characteristics of Hypertext in Costume with intertextuality, rhizome, interactivity in the structural characteristics of hypertext which is a typical trait of digital culture of openness and variousness. In conclusion, this study clarified plasticitic value of modem costume, which expresses vague isms and the pargidm of multi-typed culture most sensitively and condretley, and expressional forms in relation with the structural characteristics of hypertext.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권5호
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• pp.880-890
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to find out the correlation between the spirit of the times and the characteristics of each eras fashionable silhouette and clothing in Gothic and Modern Period. Theoretical studies about the spirit of times, and the characteristics of clothing about each times were preceded. The results were as follows: The similarities of spirit of times were 1) emphasis on reason and rationality 2) centralization by christianity in Gothic Period, and modernism theory in Modern Period 3) times of the nobility and the churchman in Gothic, and elite class in Modern era. The similarities of characteristics of clothing were 1) preference of slim body form as the ideal body figure, 2) emphasis on convenience and function for freedom in action, 3) discontinuation of traditional way of clothing attitude, 4) emphasis on straight and simple on the silhouette and design, 5) tendency of eliminating ornaments on clothing.

• 한국IT서비스학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국IT서비스학회 2009년도 추계학술대회
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• pp.351-354
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• 2009

컴퓨터 프로그래밍에 의해 특정 모티브 이미지를 기반으로 다양한 규칙과 불규칙요인을 포함한 동적구성을 완성한다. 완성된 동적구성에서 타임 슬라이스를 통해 다수의 이미지컷을 생성하고 이를 단독 또는 혼합하여 그래픽디자인의 소스로 사용하는 등 예술적으로 활용하는 것이 본 연구의 목적이다. 이러한 방법을 '프로그래밍아트'라고 칭하고자 한다. 첫번째 시도한 모티브는 색동이다. 조선 복식에서 기쁨과 즐거움의 표현으로 사용된 원색들은 배열의 질서를 갖춰 색동의 형식을 취함으로써 원색 조화의 미를 보여준다. 이제까지 "탈 색동화에 의한 디자인 전개"는 색동의 조형요소를 다양하게 변형시키는 것으로 여러 분야의 디자이너들에 의해 색동의 색이나 색 너비등의 변형으로 시도되고 있다. 색동의 색상과 이미지틀을 유지하면서 변형할 영역을 도출하여 프로그래밍하였고, 몇가지 유형의 그래픽 재료를 생산하고 이를 재가공하였다. 예술의 창의적 과정에서 프로그래밍을 통한 자동화 영역을 찾는 것은 다소 불합리해 보이지만, 창의적인 작업과정을 세부적으로 나누면서 규칙적 영역을 발굴하거나, 그 영역 내에서도 인터랙션을 통해 인간의 의지가 반영될 수 있다. 이는 인간과 컴퓨터가 공조하여 창의성을 추구함으로써 컴퓨터를 또 하나의 생명체로 간주해가는 미래사회 협업의 새로운 유형의 시도라 생각한다.

• 복식
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• 제66권8호
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• pp.14-32
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• 2016

This study examines the morphological expression type and formative characteristics of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology. The results of the study are as follows. First, the morphological expression types of contemporary shoes that integrate 3D printing technology express a structural form created by repetition. Second, it expresses a dynamic form, which combines organic curves that create an external volume. Third, it expresses a surrealistic form centered on an object with the creation of a unique shape that utilizes objects easily experienced in local surroundings. Fourth, it expresses a hybrid form on a partial derivation. Each of the other system's components are fused to create another beauty that develops a new value in a colorful variation on the shape of 3D printing shoes. The first formative characteristic of women's shoes designs that integrate 3D printing technology is continuity. This creates an invisible form of a new space through repetitive unidirectional layers with a gradual expansion of a unitary seamless curves. Second, it is an exaggeration. This exaggeration elicits an enormous aesthetic quality by structuring the outward space in the difference of the volume formed based on the maximization of a specific part and the volume of a line's atypical movement. Third, it is a decoration. It displays the beauty of a decoration that evokes a unique artistic inspiration by partial unification or a practical representation of a specific form. This can also be seen as superimposing a 3D printing figure that has an outstanding shape onto part of the fashion shoes. Fourth, it concerns a geometrical characteristic that formulates a new structure with rationality in combining basic shapes such as circles, triangles and squares with lines, hexagons and interconnected geometrical forms to create a multi-dimensional space for shoes in a systematic and unidirectional pattern.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.62-78
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• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.261-276
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• 2010

The analysis of an art trend in the principle dimension starts by observing the object of work in the perspective of formative composition and recognizing it as a universal system. It can be said that it is consistent with an interpretation method for a form theory of formal history by Heinrich W$\ddot{o}$lfflin, a leading form critic in art criticism. Hence, the purpose of this study was to find out what are the formative principles in Renaissance Classicism as a design principle to be applicable to modern fashion by reviewing the formative characteristics of Renaissance Classicism Architecture with which W$\ddot{o}$lfflin directly dealt. As for the theoretical literature review, I used W$\ddot{o}$lfflin's theoretical framework and looked at the Renaissance Classicism Architecture that he studied and examined the possibility of utilizing his theory as a layout principle and the characteristics. As for analysis of design cases, I applied the aforementioned architecture layout principle to modern fashion and conducted case study analysis to delve into distinctive layout principles found in fashion. The study showed that the Renaissance Classicism Architectural Style is marked by linearity, planarity, closing and multiple unity: linearity was expressed in the observation form in fixed frontal view and an emphasis on a tangible silhouette homeogenous and definite line structures; planarity was achieved in the form of paralleled layers of frontal view element, planarity style, and identical and proportional repetition of various sizes.; closing signified the pursuit of complete and clear regularity, and architecture developed in a constructive phase through organizational inevitability and absolute invariability.; multiple unity was expressed in self-completedness and independent parallel of discrete forms and harmony of emphasized individual elements in a totality. Applying these layout characteristics of the Renaissance Classicism Architectural style and to see their individual expressive features, I found out that in adopting layout principles of the Renaissance Classicism Architecture to modern fashion, it turned out to be an emphasis of individual silhouettes, a flattened space, completed objects, organic harmony among independent parts: the emphasis of individual silhouettes was expressed in individual definitiveness of formative lines of clothes in accordance with body joints and an emphasis on formative lines of clothes; the flattened space was marked by single layer structure, planarity of elements of clothes, and listing arrangement by appropriate proportion.; the completedness of the objects was expressed by the stationary state where overall image is fixed, the construction of homogeneous and complete space, and absolute inevitability of internal layout in proportion; lastly, organic harmony of independent parts was stressed in independent completedness of each detail, and organic harmony of the whole. The expressive features would lead to a unique expression style of linear emphasis, proportion, constructive forms, and two-dimensional arrangement. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.57-74
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• 2015

The history of foot-binding was once regarded as a unique practice accentuating the beauty of a woman and the culture of the costume, to be found nowhere except in China. This thesis makes it an aim to understand the culture of costume in China by analyzing the beauty of foot-binding, and its meanings associated with the historical background of the costume. The method of investigation was by both previous literature on the topic and case analysis. The shoes were analyzed by colors, patterns and decorations; selecting 70 pieces easily accessible in the Tianjin Huaxia Shoes Culture Museum. In terms of form, the general type was of the most frequent, followed by one with an elevated toe, mixed type, and one of the downward toe, sequentially. The color of foot-binding shoes were mostly vivid chromatic colors, while the achromatic ones like black and grey constituting significant portions. In view of the patterns, plants patterns were the most frequent, followed by the mixed patterns of mostly flowers with butterflies, bats, and birds desiring the prosperity of descendants. In view of the ornaments, embroidery was the most frequent, while the mixed shoes included tassels, sequins, applique, and shoes without ornaments were of distributions. The forms, colors, patterns and ornaments clearly associated with the wishes of artistic beauty, sexuality, and rise in women's social status may be in the hope of leading others to understand the costume culture embedded in the Chinese by providing important clues about them.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.117-133
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• 2022

In order to reflect traditional elements in modern design, designers should be able to creatively apply elements of traditional Chinese clothing. To understand this, a deep understanding of and insights into the traditional clothing culture are required. In this study, the characteristics of traditional Chinese women's clothing from the Wei, Jin, and Northern and Southern Dynasties of China to the Qing Dynasty were analyzed by dividing them into silhouette, color, pattern, materials, and detail. The characteristics of the silhouette were classified into A, H, X, and O types, of which types A and H were the most common. As for the color characteristics, there are relatively many five cardinal colors, and for the contrast of colors complementary colors were mainly used. As the for pattern characteristics, real patterns, animal patterns, character patterns, geometric patterns, and mixed patterns were used. Four types of materials were mainly used: silk, hemp, cotton, and wool. The detail characteristics were also anlyzed by classifying them into collar, sleeve, neckband, and gusset. Based on the results of this analysis, a satisfaction survey was conducted on the design of modern Chinese women's clothing. The result of satisfaction with design elements showed that the images of vest and suit were most preferred, H and X silhouettes, and yellow and white were the most preferred. Geometric and plant patterns were preferred, as were silk and acetate materials. Based on the result of chi-square analysis of design element preferences according to the characteristics of the subject, there was no difference according to occupation, residential area, or income, and there were differences in silhouette, color, materials, and detail according to age.

• 복식
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• 제67권3호
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.