• 복식
• /
• 제23권
• /
• pp.25-43
• /
• 1994

앙드레 꾸레쥬는 자신의 디자인에 건축적 조형미를 표현한 대표적인 디자이너이다. 그의 디자인들은 라인 뿐 아니라 색채, 소재, 액세서리에 이르기까지 건물을 짓듯이 설계, 구성되어 있다. 최근 복식미의 건축적 조형성이 강조되고 있는 것을 감안할 때, 60년대 이미 선구자적인 역할을 하면서 자신의 건축가적인 기호를 유감없이 발휘해온 꾸레쥬를 연구한다는 것은 21세기를 향한 패션의 발전 측면에서 조금이라도 의미가 있지 않을까 생각한다. 본 연구에서는 앙드레 꾸fp쥬가 가장 활발히 활동했던 1974년에서 1970년까지 그의 디자인들을 집중 연구하였는데, 그의 패션디자인에 건축양식의 특징들이 어떻게 나타났는지에 연구의 초점을 맞추었다. 본 연구의 대상으로 사용된 실제의 옷 샘플들은 뉴욕 메트로폴리탄 예술박물관내의 Costume Institute Storage 에 있는 의복과 액세서리들을 직접, 관찰 , 분석한것이고 그 박의 사진들은 패션과 건축에 관한 서적과 잡지, 박물관내의 Slide Library , 그리고 Costume Institute Library Collection에서 발췌 , 비교 연구한 것이다. 일찍이 엔지니어링과 건축을 공부했던 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 50년대의 패션 디자이너의 거장 발렌시아가 밑에서 10년 넘게 일하다가 독립하였는데 그의 디자인 세계는 줄곧 여성들이 입고 편히 활동 할 수 있는 기능성을 강조하면서 단순하고 편안한 의복 구성에 중점을 두었다. 그리고 그는 이러한 자신의 패션 철학과 의복제작 과정들은 현대건물이 갖는 단순성, 기능성의 특징과 일치한다고 믿었다. A. 라인(Line) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 패션 디자인에서의 비레는 건축에서구조를 쌓아가는 것과 같은 것이라고 생각하고 옷에서의 기본 구성을 기하학적인 라인에 두었다. 그래서 그의 옷들은 A-라인, 사각형, 사다리꼴,,, 등의 분명한 실루엣을 이루고 있는데 이러한 기본라인을 뒷받침이라도 하듯 소매가 아주 짧거나 없는 것이 특징이다. 황금분할이 아닌 1 : 1 구성은 그가 독특하게 사용한 비례방법의 하나인데 그것은 자켓과 스커트의 길이비례, 요크와 몸판간의 면적비례 등에서 잘 나타나고 있다. 그리고 그는 , 의복구성의 비례를 강조하기 위해 사용한 강한 색상의 대비를 현대건물의 인테리어에 빛을 사용하는 것과 같은 이치라고 설명한다. B.색상(Color) 흰색은 그러한 그의 비례강조 의복에 가장 적절한 색으로 사용되었다. 그는 빨강, 오렌지, 녹색, 분홍등 강렬한 원색을 사용하였는데도 불구하고 흰색은 그의 건축양식 발상의 Ideo를 완성시키는 완전한 색이었다. 뜨거운 날씨에 흰색이 가장 기능적인 색인 것처럼 강한 원색 대비를 통해 비례강조를 하면서 동시에 그것을 뒷받침하는 가장 합리적이고 기능적인 색은 흰색이라고 믿었다. C. 소재 (Material) 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 건물을 짓듯이 사람위에 옷을 건축한다고 믿었기 때문에 자연히 둔탁하고 딱딱한 소재가 많이 사용되었다. 비닐, 금속류, 시퀸스처럼 광택나고 투명한 재료 선호는 그 당시 현대 건축에서 선풍적으로 많이 사용되었던 유리, 금속류, 크리스탈 등 비치고 광택나는 건축재료와 일맥상통하는 것이다. 그러한 선국적인 내료 사용결과로 보여진 괴상하고 선정적인 그러면서도 아주 단순한 패션은 미래 지향적인 건축양식 구조의 " Simple", "Plain" 느낌과 정확하게 같은 것이다. 이상과 같이 앙드레 꾸레쥬는 옷을 디자인 했다기 보다는 건축했다. 주목할만한 점은 60년대 말 당시 발표되었던 그의 건축 구조적인 디자인의 특징들이 21세기를 앞둔 90년대에 다시 크게 유행하고있다는 점이다. 꾸레쥬 역시, 최근 자신의 디자인을 통해 건축적 조형미와 미래지향적 이미지를 더욱 강조하고 있는 것을 볼 수있다. 단순하면서 우주공간을 선회하는 듯한 입체적인 라인, 흰색을 비롯한 자연에 가까운 색을 중심으로 하되, 밝은 색조의 하이라이트, 플라스틱, 금속류와 같이 딱딱하고 광택나며 비치는 재료 사용,, 등등이 바로 그것이다. 그리고 이러한 그에 미래 지향적이고 조형적인 디자인들은 앞으로 어떻게 더 모험적인 모습으로 선보일지 우리 모두가 주목할만한 일인 것이다.

• 한국도로학회논문집
• /
• 제1권1호
• /
• pp.107-119
• /
• 1999

줄눈콘크리트포장의 줄눈은 슬래브의 온도나 습도변화에 의한 구속변형에 의해 슬래브 내부에 종방향 균열이나 횡방향 균열이 발생하는 것을 제어할 목적으로 설치한다. 이러한 줄눈은 줄눈부에서의 불연속성의 원인이 되어 두 슬래브 사이의 하중전달기능을 감소시키며, 상대적으로 취약함을 지녔기 때문에 손상을 유발시킬 수 있는 가능성을 지니고 있다. 따라서, 줄눈콘크리트포장 줄눈부 손상유형 및 정도에 대한 객관적이고 과학적인 평가가 이루어져야 합리적이고 경제적인 보수방법을 결정할 수 있다. 본 연구는 콘크리트포장 해석프로그램인 ILLI-SLAB를 이용하여 줄눈 평가시스템을 개발하고 이를 FWD 시험결과에 이용하여 줄눈콘크리트포장의 상태를 평가하고자 하였다. 이를 위해 먼저 줄눈부에 영향을 줄 수 있는 변수를 선정하고, ILLI-SLAB를 사용하여 민감도 분석을 실시하여 줄눈부에 영향을 크게 미치는 변수를 찾았다. 이러한 변수들을 분석해 줄눈부의 하중전달효과 및 표면 처짐의 관계를 나타내어, 현장에서 FWD를 실시하여 얻은 하중전달효과와 재하위치의 표면 처짐값을 이용해 줄눈콘크리트포장을 평가하였다. 그 결과 노상지지력 계수(K)와 다웰/콘크리트 상호관계 계수(G) 두 변수가 가장 크게 영향을 미침을 알 수 있었으며, 그 임계값은 각각 300 poi와 500,000 lbs/in.임을 알 수 있었다. 이 두 변수와 현장 FWD 시험을 이용하여 줄눈콘크리트포장의 평가시스템을 개발하였으며, 실제 중부고속도로에서 실시한 FWD 측정치를 이용해 평가한 결과 한 개의 줄눈부만이 다웰/콘크리트 상호관계 계수가 임계값보다 낮고, 대부분 줄눈부의 두 인자값이 임계값 이상으로 콘크리트포장 줄눈부가 양호함을 알 수 있었다.이며, 관목층훼손 식생지와 단층구조 식생지는 소극적 복원지로서 군집유형별로 상림내 안정된 다층구조의 자연식생구조를 모델로 하여 생태적 천이발달을 유도하여야 할 것이다. 또한 잔디광장과 조경수식 재지는 적극적 복원지로서 다층구조의 참나무류군집과 낙엽활엽수군집 (개서어나무 우점)을 모델로 하여 관리해야 할 것이다.저서무척추동물이었다. 우점도지수는 가을 0.22～0.51(평균$\pm$표준편차 0.42$\pm$0.09), 겨울 0.31～0.96(0.62$\pm$0.23). 여름 0.30～0.89(0.57$\pm$0.18)였고, 다양도지수는 가을 3.50～4.26(3.80$\pm$0.24), 겨울 1.55～4.50(3 10$\pm$1.01), 여름 1.35～3.77(2.55$\pm$0.69)였다. 홍수 후의 조사에서 노린재류, 딱정벌레류, 복족류 등 이동성이 높거나 완전히 수중생활에 적응한 종류의 회복이 빠른 것으로 나타났다. 전체 조사지점 중에서 우포와 사지포의 평균 다양도지수가 가장 높게 나타나서 그 지역이 양호한 저서무척추동물의 서식처를 형성하고 있음을 시사하였다.한 독창성을 보여주고 있다. 또한 내재된 패션 이미지를 분석해 보면 정확함과 차가움의 의미를 지닌 이지적 이미지와 우주의 질서를 반영하는 상징적 이미지, 복잡한 자연으로부터 간결한 형태로의 경향성이 이루어낸 인공적 이미지를 느낄 수 있었으며, 미래적 이미지와 전통적 이미지의 상반된 개념의 이미지를 같이 내포하고 있음을 추론할 수 있었다. 이와 같이 현대 패션에 표현된 기하학적 패턴은 복식을 조형예술 분야로

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제13권1호
• /
• pp.51-66
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to fashion-design the image of Cleopatra on the basis of Cleopatra's characteristic, clothing and its symbolic meaning shown in movie . In movie , Cleopatra(69B.C-30B.C) is described as passionate, intelligent, dignified person and even as enchantress. Costume that Cleopatra wears compound the type of ancient Egyptian costume in New Kingdom, the change of it, and the trend in the 1960's. Their color and pattern also symbolizes religion by adding ancient Egyptian myths to show the absolute royal authority. Therefore, design concepts, determined on the base of Cleopatra's characteristic and symbol meaning, are applied to make creative costume with Cleopatra's image of God Isis. In order to show Cleopatra's dignity, confidence, territorial ambition, black is used as a general base color. To represend Cleopatra's passion and the image of Isis, red is used. And the word 'Kemeto' represents all these symbols. As a whole, dress named 'Kemeto of Cleopatra' is designed and created.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제31권11호
• /
• pp.1634-1644
• /
• 2007

This study is to define correctly the concept of exotic image that evolved in domestic fashion since 2001 and to analyze the characteristics and current tendency of the domestic fashion items of the exotic image. Thus this study will be helpful in establishing an academic field of the exotic image in the domestic fashion industry which can offer the ideas necessary for the style and item developments. As for the research method of this study, the frequency and content multi-dimensional analysis were used in the investigation of the exotic images appearing in the domestic fashion brands. The types of exotic image are #ecological#, #folk & ethnic costume#, #kitchy bricolage#, #womanish#, #period# types by analyzed with the elements of exotic images in the domestic women#s fashion brand. The exotic image in domestic fashion market in the middle of 2000s is the results of fusion phenomena among various trend styles, and through the compromise and mixture of different elements, exaggerations, and historically different times of old and new. In conclusion, the contemporary concept of exotic image is expanded by the sum of many contributing images. They are the folk ethnic costume image originating from various different cultures and also the fusion images of folk ethnic costumes from non-urban, not-modern, not-industrialized images compromised with unfamiliar codes.

• 한국게임학회 논문지
• /
• 제18권3호
• /
• pp.103-112
• /
• 2018

캐릭터 디자인에 있어 '패션'은 캐릭터의 정체성과 성격, 개성과 설정을 한눈에 뚜렷하게 제시해주는 강력한 도구이다. '특정한 시기에 유행하는 복식이나 두발의 일정한 형식'으로 정의되는 패션은 의상뿐만 아니라 다양한 장신구, 헤어를 포함한 메이크업 등을 아우르는 하나의 '이미지'를 창조해낸다. 현재의 트렌드를 선도하고 반영하는 실제 런웨이 위의 패션 디자인과 게임업계 내의 캐릭터 디자인은 서로 영향을 주고 받을 수 밖에 없다. 하지만 이러한 패션의 중요성에 비해 캐릭터 디자인에서 패션 디자인에 대한 분석적인 접근과 접목은 잘 이루어지지 않고 있다. 본 논문에서는 게임 캐릭터 디자인과 패션 디자인 사이의 상호 영향에 대한 고찰을 하고, 패션 디자인에 대한 이론적 분석과 조형적 고찰의 접목이 보다 응용된 시각적 시도의 캐릭터 컨셉 디자인에 도움이 된다는 것을 제시하고자 한다.

• 복식
• /
• 제64권7호
• /
• pp.172-183
• /
• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제6권1호
• /
• pp.94-109
• /
• 1998

The objective of this study is to measure self-image of adolescence, analyze empirically clothing-purchasing-behavior of adolescence and clarify correlation of two variables, self-image and clothing-purchasing-behavior. For this purpose, the techniques involve theoretical studies and researches based on historical obtained from previous related studies and surveys, 431 high school female students who reside in Seoul are asked to answer selected survey questions to examine three aspects, clothing-purchasing-behavior, self-image and demographics. The evaluation of surveyed information is analyzed by statistical techniques to improve the accuracy of data. Statistical methods used are as follows; Descriptive(frequency, mean, percentage), Factor Analysis(varimax rotation), Crosstabs(Chi-square), T-test, One-Way ANOVA< Correlation Analysis, Reliability Analysis and Duncan's Multiple Range Test. The mjor results of this study were as follows: Firstly, there is a discrepancy between real self-image and ideal self-image. Furthermore more significant differences is seen from physical aspects than psychological aspects. Consequently, research proves that the difference derived from their ideal situation and real situation leads to psychological unstableness. In addition, making their real self-image is dependent upon several elements such things as family economic level, pocket money, expenditure on clothing. Therefore, it is critical to combine all factors in order to decide how much to spend for children's clothing and pocket money in parents point of view. Secondly, research shows that shows hat there is correlated relationship between average expenditure on clothing and presence of mother's job. Average expenditure on clothing is, generally, influenced by vogue which is tend to be changed seasonally. It, also, shows that there is positive linear regression between expenditure on clothe and sensitivity for vogue. That is to say, dependent variable, expenditure on clothing, is varied as independent variable, sensitivity for vogue, changes. Female high school students are likely to give much value on brand. Moreover people who are spending more money on clothes have higher tendencies in prompt purchases than who are not. Thirdly, the analysis of clothing-purchasing-behavior and self-image shows that the difference between real self-image and ideal self-image draws the main reason of dissatisfaction after purchase of clothes. As a consequence, their unfilled needs lead them to keep making another purchase to satisfy themselves. Therefore, it is strongly recommended that parents' advices and directions on their children's money spending on clothes are imperative to establish well-behaved purchasing patterns.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제8권5호
• /
• pp.681-706
• /
• 2000

This study is intended to understand an implication system and significance in the current community which a body image symbolizes by correlating it with fashion that is on the rise as a principal issue in various fields. For this study, the symbolism of the body image was contemplated in terms of philosophy and art, and then on the basis of it, the symbolism of the body image shown in modern fashion design was analyzed through fashion works. The research results are as follows, 1. The manifestation of sex can be taken as the symbolism of the body image which is expressed in modern fashion design. Recently sexual chaos and vagueness such as homosexuality and bisexuality are expressed through a dress and its ornaments. Though displaying sexual characteristics of male and female as they are exposing a sign or a diagram, decorating a part of body or representing sex in garments, uncertain sex identity in modern society is manifested in dress and its ornaments. It is to deny absoluteness regarding sex and emphasize diversity indwelt in human beings, and after all it shows to pursue the human essence. 2. Another symbolism of the body image is body expression as the human race and an ethnic group. The discriminating situations and the restoration of their status appeared in modern fashion too. Moreover, their cultures and issues came to alter the aesthetic standard of body made from a view of the Western white supremacist. Hereupon, fashion trends like ethnic fashion, Orientalism and African look etc. appear according to this tendency, which represents race and national identity and in addition, which signifies to present transcendental human conception embracing alienated human conception. 3. The symbolism of the body image expressed in a body, and a dress and its ornaments as nature can be considered in terms of the concern on environmental contamination and the respect of echo system. Getting away from reigning over, developing and stamping down nature at their will, the human beings pursue unity with nature, which is described in fashion. They are stressing that natural materials and objects such as animal, plant and soil etc. should activily be introduced into fashion and humans are a communal fate group and should reframe their status in nature at last. 4. The body image shown in a body, a dress and its ornaments as technology is transformed and recreated by modern scientific techniques and medical science to show post human conception namely, forthcoming future human conception as a cyborg which loses individual identity. This presents a perfect future human conception with high level of preternatural power but after all, leaves us a task to seek the meaning of human existence in alienation caused by the loss of human identity and existence. In this manner, the moderns crave for perceiving the identity of a natural human being in the current thoughts tendency of the modern times such as postmodernism, post structuralism, deconstructionism, feminism and so on, which build discussions affecting the art and fashion worlds. The categories, like sexual characteristics indwelt in a human body, racial classifications, the natural environment surrounding human beings and development of science, bring out the importance of the internal and external meaning in today's fashion which a human body contains, and present sew human conception in the coming future society.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제18권5호
• /
• pp.977-990
• /
• 2010

Today, as individuals show their social identities and reflect their being as the members of society with a culture, an art style and communication function are stood out in fashion photographs. Accordingly, the meanings of images into text are expanded in its interpretative width through the acceptor's various terms. This researcher looked into four theories of both positions on the textuality of language and image, and considered the point of discussion on image of each theory through modern fashion photographs. First, the theory which divides language and image as auditory and visual recognitions in the textuality of language and image is limited from the view it focuses on only one side without considering the ambivalent elements of each field. For the textuality in modern fashion photographs, the observer attempts to turn it into text to give meaning to it as the recognition through five senses conforming to the acceptor's condition. Second, the theory dividing language and image into the text of time properties and spacial properties has limitation in the text, for acceptor's experience of the object appears as the structured form in time and space rather than being defined as two things like time and space. Third, the theory classifying the language and image text into conventional taste and natural taste has limitation from the view that image text is hardly an object of consistent classification in ease of recognition by the code accepted in society. Thus, this can't be fundamental approach for the understanding of the text of decoding trend represented in modern fashion photographs. Fourth, accordingly, this researcher focussed on contextual and arbitrary text of fashion photographs through the theory of Nelson Goodman which discusses image text through the differences in textuality. Basic mechanism of perceiving and recognizing and distinguish image is closely related to habit and custom like language. So, each acceptor perceives the image as a text through arbitrary interpretation obtained by individual, empirical, historical, and educational viewpoints. The textuality of modern fashion photographs aims to widen the range of diverse knowledge and understanding, transcending the regulations of simple function of existing fashion photographs. Consequently, this researcher puts forward the opinion of consistent and diverse follow-up studies on instilling meaning into fashion photographs for the understanding de-regulatory and de-constructive through various senses by avoiding only one sense-dependent fixed and regulatory properties of it.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권1호
• /
• pp.25-42
• /
• 2005

Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.