• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.673-684
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to find out the correlation between the \"spirit of the times\" and the characteristics of each eras clothing in Renaissance and Post-modern Period. Theoretical studies about the \"spirit of times\" and the characteristics of clothing about each time were preceded. The results were as follows: Similarities of \"Spirit of times\" were 1) emphasis on humanity 2) anti-centralization 3) destruction of social status 4) deconstruction of christianity in Renaissance and modernism in Post-modern Period. Similarities of \"characteristics of clothing\" were 1) emphasis on erotic aspects of female body 2) emphasis of erotic aspects on clothing 3) tendency to revert to the old fashion 4) popularization of certain social groups fashion 5) tendency of deconstructionism in fashion 6) tendency of \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.f \"No match mix\" 7) androgynous style.ous style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.135-148
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis is to examine how typography, which has become apparent in many areas of modern society, is expressed, portrayed and how its value, function and significance in fashion can be understood. In order to undertake this study, the concept of typography was examined in detail, the verbal and formative function of typography carefully considered, and the different types of typography were analyzed and categorized in to the below areas : - Typography for the increasing of brand logo recognition - Typography as a social slogan - Typography for the increasing of collective belongingness - Typography as an image - Typography as a symbol. As a result, the typography plays an important role of a verbal tool in modern fashion design. Through typography, fashion was able to explain in much detail the overstatement of society criticizing character and functionality of information conveyance. However, the role of typography will continue to change and evolve according to the constant changes of fashion

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.749-759
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• 2007

As the traditional style is treated as one of the important themes in fashion recently, how to apply the formative character in Korean and Japanese traditional dress to modern fashion is searched through actual analysis of photograph material, Both design formative elements were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors through visual data so that 20 pieces of them were selected as final analysis object. Korean traditional dress form in modern fashion emphasizes curvaceousness as plane division. On the other hand, that of Japanese shows straight line, layered, belt, big look through up & down connection style. Color in Korean traditional dress prefers white and original color and modern fashion displays the natural beauty through harmony of similar colors ; that of Japanese based on natural color such as persimmon color cherishes natural beauty and implicit moderation showing harmony of various original color with brilliance and neutral color. While texture in Korean traditional dress was fine and exquisite, that of Japanese preferred coarse and tactile ones. In motif, Korea was natural and geometric but Japanese variously used complex and geometric ones. Likewise, the result suggests that the formative character in Korean and Japanese modern fashion affects the modern dress format as new aesthetic sense and takes on more complicated and subtle aspect in basic form, not just use so far.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.122-139
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• 1999

Paco Rabanne, who has created experimental and prophetic avant-garde fashion by cutting edge techniques and revolutionary new materials, is known as one of the most influential fashion designer of modern times. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various factors, including some major artistic movements, which influenced on the formative characteristics of Paco Rabanne\`s fashion design. First, Paco Rabanne\`s fantastic new materials is also influenced by his study in architecture and his own fantasies -which other people can hardly imagine- during his early childhood. Second, light one of the most important element in Paco Ranbanne\`s fashion design, shows some influence of medieval symbols of love and salvation. Third, the artistic trends which influenced on Paco Rabanne\`s fashion include surrealism, opart, and kinetic art. His use of new materials and avant -garde style represents the influence of surrealism. his experimental use of waving plastics and glittering metal during his early period is especially related with opart and kinetic art in the early 1960s which emphasize the artistic effect of light and movement. Fourth, the geometrical figures like triangles, rectangles, and circles represent the influence of Egyptian architecture like pyramids and the geometrical characteristics of Eguptian art. Fifth, Paco Rabanne\`s distinctive use of metal chains in his fashion shows the influence of the chain mail hauberk, the medieval knightly armour. By using the medieval material Paco Rabanne properly expressed the modern person\`s pain and suffering. Sixth, the ethnic elements of Egypt, Africa, Spain, and Japan reflect the experience in his former lives he insists he lived. The ethnic elements of his dresses emphasize the natural vitality and inheritance from the past.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.713-725
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• 2007

This treatise is designed to discover the principle of timeless continuity of Korean design from the perspective of modem accomodation of formative beauty of tractional dress style with the focus on measurement analysis of dress from visual perspective. For this purpose in this research the following subjects are studied with concentration: the 1st phase debate on the dress style appearing in the Kokuryo murals and genre painting during the later period of Chosun Dynasty regarding the formative beauty of dress style. 2nd phase debate on the points of changes and transformations during given age and given principle of Korean designs being maintained across the span of time in the context of madern accomodation of such traditional dress. From historical perspective characteristics of each given age and principles of visual formative principles appear in various ways variety attributable to mutually interactive principles according to historical background and culture. For this reason it can be said that they are determined by different paradigm or forms from characteristics of Korean style design in the present and future and those for traditional forms of dress in the past.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.2
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• pp.26-39
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• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.165-181
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• 2016

This study looks into the Korean traditional costume formation and the thoughts of the Korean people that form the foundation of that Korean traditional costume formation. And the goal of this study is in linking the thoughts and formative characteristics reflected in the Korean traditional costume formation to the fractal geometry, in an attempt to reveal correlation between Korean traditional costume formation which have existed for thousands of years to contemporary science of the West. The fractal theory that appeared as the new paradigm of contemporary science displayed similarities with the traditional ideologies of Korea, and the fact that formation principles of fractal appear in the formation of Korean costume, formed based on the Korean ideologies, show magnanimous capacity of the traditional Korean culture. When we look at the concept of fractal, the word fractal refers to the structure in which the shape repeats, where small structure is similar to the whole structure in form in endlessly repeating structure. In other words, 'fractal' means a structure that geometrically untangles the concept of 'self-similarity' which possesses the same shape in parts and in whole, and its major characteristics include 'self-similarity', 'circularity' and 'repeatability'. Korean costumes were formed based on the Han-thoughts, with a structure that possesses parts within the whole and the whole within parts, in accordance with the self-similarity theory of 'fractal'. This study compared studied fractal phenomenon which appear in formation characteristics of Korean traditional costume, which were formed based on the Korean traditional ideology, in other words, Korean costume formation and formation principles of fractal geometry were compared studied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.407-419
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• 2017

Based on clothing prohibition modelling characteristics, this paper studies historical costumes through the traditional Chinese historical dramas of the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'; represents the research object as a representative Chinese historical drama. This paper systematically analyzed the utilization and reflection of royal women clothing prohibition. The results of the study are as follows. The royal women clothing prohibition of this drama shows three aspects of characteristics found in traditional Chinese costume modeling. First, some special colors that integrated ancient and modern styles were mainly used in this drama such as champagne color, wine color, and macaron color. Second, it mainly utilized the modelling of modern artificial pigments and floral patterns that are different from Chinese traditional female costumes of the 'Qing Dynasty'. Third, stage costumes for this drama are focused more on using a personality method to reflect the beauty of each actress by the application of individual elements. This study analyzed and studied the clothing prohibition of female costume from to show the traditional Chinese costume prohibition in a Chinese historical drama as well as reveal a few aspects of traditional female costume characteristics in the 'Kang-Qian' heyday during the 'Qing Dynasty'. This study examined traditional female costumes characteristics in modern historical dramas based on different figures and dynasties as well as discussed the factors at a deeper level and from varied aspects.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.294-309
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• 2015

This study aims to clarify the aesthetic values between emotion of human and expression of technology in contemporary fashion as it analyzes formative characteristics of related cases in fashion based on principles of 3D Printing technology and the viewpoint of mechanic aesthetics. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, 3D Printing fashion is not only expressed diverse variations by its principles of formative methods, materials and properties, but also changes of silhouette by applying system of designers. Second, general characteristics of 3D Printing fashion is represented by various applications in SLS system, and it can be specifically explained application to a portion of clothing, decorative roles of clothing, complicated pattern making through crossing fabrics using 3D scanner and displaying a certain object changing fashion styles, and so forth. Third, the formative characteristics of 3D Printing fashion from the perspective of mechanic aesthetics is as follows. It can be analyzed as the integration of metaphysical values through compared symbolization of natural feature and technical evolution, partial dynamics and interactive velocity-based, formative combinations for abstract expression using architectural components, cosmos images and substantialized structures through images of organic space interacted human shapes. As the mention above, 3D Printing technology can creative a diverse area of fashion, and express images of new technological fashion through various works with continuous development of techniques.