• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.32-43
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• 2006

Excavated fabrics from Papyeung-yun's tomb totals at 208 in their numbers. They comprised 118 pieces of silk tabby(紬), 16 pieces of thin silk tabby, 8 pieces of thin filament silk tabby (絹), 43 pieces of satin damask(段), 8 pieces of compound satin(金線), 1 piece of twill(綾), 1 piece of complex gauze(羅), l piece of simple gauze(紗), 4 pieces of cotton(綿布), 4 pieces of hemp(麻布) and 3 pieces of ramie(苧布). As shown in the preceding list, $95\%$ of all the items are weaved from silk. To list a few characteristics of excavated fabrics from Papyoung-Yun's lineage, there are A vivid gold-colored compound satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 4-end complex gauze of Neoul that is women's head cover. To note, names of the fabrics used in this article are based on the information from the literatures and are as following silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby, filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), compound satin(金線), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), cotton(綿布), twill(綾), hemp(麻布)and ramie(苧布).

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.7 no.9
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• pp.62-71
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• 2007

Man kind has been doing a human body ornament as a expression of desire for beauty from the earliest times. The ornament might assume expression for the human body earlier than clothes it has protected human body from the exterior such as dishonor, cold weather and hot weather etc. because ornament has been excavated compare than clothes. for example. The aborigine's clothes and tools seem to be more splendid ornament than natural function. The ornament has been development with variety such as bone from the animals, Feather from the primitive ages to high technology new materials in the modern society. In this research contribute that development of jewelry contents industries through the vernacular of tradition korean jewelry.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.41-45
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• 1980

We must identify the forms of dress devised throughout ages, when we wtudy, interpret and analyze the numerous resource material of costume. The study which depends on reference to actual artifacts is necessarily limited. Whereas items of contemporary dress are readily available, much from earlier eras has been destroyed or has deteriorated through time. Such as cottons, linens, silks, wools, leathers and furs are perishable organic materials. Few garments dated earlier than seventeenth century has survived except armor, jewelry. We have many sources of the information are available to study on costume of earlier eras. These sources are wall paintings, sculptures, painting, monumental brasses, manuscript illustration ceramics, coins, medals, mosaics, archives, literature. Wall painting and frescoes provided an useful source for costume study. Many wall paintings and frescoes were destroyed, were changed in color. It si advisable to interpret the dress detail, form color carefully. Sculpture would be useful to see the back and side views of dress. One of the most important points which should be made abut the use of sculpture as a source for costume study in early periods is that the sculptor's style will often change the character of a costume. As the painting si two-dimensional evidence for a three-dimensional costume, paintings must be accurately studied. What we must do, as far as we can, is to look at all visual representations in the light of other contemporary evidence in order to interpret the information correctly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.74-88
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• 2010

This study investigates the relevance between the subjective age and clothing shopping orientation by adults women located in the cities of Seoul and Gyeonggi. The results are following. First, subjective age was identified with interest age, look age, and physical age. Customers were segmented into following five subdivisions: young activity group, actual age group, young appearance group, physical aging group and youth-oriented group. When the study examined differences between real age and subjective age, the study could see that they perceived themselves younger four years than real age- 50s: 7 years, 40s: 5 years, the latter half of 30s: 2.7 years and the former half of 30s: 1.7 years. Second, clothing shopping orientation was identified with planned shopping orientation, leisure shopping orientation, loyal shopping orientation, economic shopping orientation and convenient shopping orientation. Customers were segmented into following three subdivisions: shopping low-involved group, loyal leisure group and planned leisure oriented group. Third, interest age was of no relevance to clothing shopping orientation. On the other hand, look age had negative correlation with leisure shopping orientation and convenient shopping orientation and physical age had a negative relationship with leisure shopping orientation and loyal shopping orientation but had positive correlation with economic shopping orientation. Fourth, in clothing purchase, clothing purchase answerers who were younger five years than actual age had the highest frequency. It means that they purchase clothing according to subjective age perceived younger four years on average.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.141-153
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• 2014

Buddhist articles from various periods in the Vairochana Buddha statues, which are currently housed in the Haeinsa Temple's Supreme Buddha Hall and Beopbojeon Hall. This research concentrates on the artifacts found inside the storage boxes, which was placed inside the Buddha statues in 1490. A total of 24 pieces of fabric articles found inside the Virochana Buddha in Beopbojeon and 213 pieces from the Supreme Buddha Hall were examined. The types of textiles are as follows: bast fiber, silk, cotton, and union cloth. Bast fiber consisted of ramie and hemp. For silk, tabby woven with plain weave, spun silk, and thin tabby were found. And twill damask made with twill, Sa and Ra with the leno weave, and satin damask made with the satin weave were also found. Also the two Jeogoris and three Jogakbos were found, the one Jeogori was made with Hwan. The Buddhist articles in the Vairochana Buddha of Haeinsa have been preserved well and its colors have remained virtually the same from the time of its original placement. Therefore these articles are very important in understanding the textile characteristics, weaving techniques, dying techniques as well as traditional colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.684-698
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• 2013

Interest and desire for analogue emotion increased with the dazzling development of digital technology. Especially, as analogue emotion got grafted in the design field, analysis through various expression media is being done. This study seeks to propose design of t-shirt using unique advantage of Hangeul calligraphy that can satisfy the modern flow and pattern design's various expressions. Calligraphy is being used in various fields such as advert, package, logo, movie poster, signboard, graphic design, calligraphy and abstract painting. Formative yet effective in readability and conveying meaning as it's expressed in letters, calligraphy is a field of attention with its contribution in extending the new design area. As a method of the study, altogether 8 pieces of t-shirts were proposed through related preceding research, literary research, co-work with calligraphy author, computer graphic program, and heat transfer. As such, the t-shirt designs which were created by suggesting various design and using traditional materials like calligraphy, can be used as novel and sensual factor, where one can get a glimpse at the potential of development as traditional fashion product.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.88-100
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• 2017

This study is for the textiles of at Sun Am Temple and characteristic of embroidery. Tak Ui was composed of orange body and green upper cover, and had no strings. The body plate was covered with embroidery, with Gauze base, and upper part was appliqued, by cutting dragon pattern, cloud pattern on satin damask. The thread for embroidery was silk floss, silk twisted thread, rapped gold thread, and rapped silk thread. For padding, it was used cotton thread in the part of dragon's scales. It was used satin stitch, outline stitch, split stitch, couching, and counted stitch, etc. as method of embroidery. In particular, it embroidered counted stitch of diamond shape consecutively on the whole of Tak Ui, it does so with counted stitch of same effect of weaving Brocade in the part of cloud. Besides, it is one of the characteristic for couching rapped silk thread. Such lead embroidery is the popular method in the Ming dynasty of China, in the 16~17 century. The design of Tak Ui is dragon, cloud, and wave in the theme. In the center, 'Seong-su-man-nyeon' was placed on the heads of dragon. This is similar to Dragon Robe of Four-petalled medallion patterns, period of Ming dynasty in China. Therefore, it confirmed that Tak Ui was remodeled the embroidered textiles, made for royal robe, originally, with Tak Ui at temple.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.167-179
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• 1998

The objective of this study is to examine the costumes of the period covered in the writings of Shilhak (practical science) scholars and to research the history of costumes and their characteristics by examining how they are worn in genre paintings which are said to describe the actual life of the period. This should be studied in order to correctly establish the history of costumes. To begin with, through the writings of the representative Shilhak scholars who are thought to have affected the changes in ordinary costumes for woman, this study examined how ordinary woman of the period looked in their costumes and how they regarded various costumes they had. Then, how their viewpoints of costumes influenced ordinary costumes was investigated. Not only relics, but what was commonly worn, as they appeared in the genre paintings that contain information about daily living of that period, were researched chronologically. The results of this study showed that the change in ordinary costumes for woman in the late Chosun period was affected by Shilhak scholars who had ideologies of Shilsakusi (use of positive methods in studying), Yiyonghusaeng (the promotion of commerce and industry and the development of techonologies), and Ky ngsech'iyong (pursuit of stability in a rural economy). Moreover, after those changes there were many more changes. However, the criticism of costumes of that time and the will of revolution affected some time, costumes changed directly. The forms of the costumes had been changed in a variety of ways following the tendencies of the times, but the origin of today's hanbok (Korean traditional dress) had already been fixed in the late Choson period. Yet, today's hanbok are for special occasions, not worn as ordinary clothing. Thus, there are several reasons why the hanbok is not suitable for daily life. One of the reasons is that Korean could not cope with the western costumes indepen-dently imported during Japanese occupation in the last period of the Choson Dynasty and con-tinuing the Japanese Colony. Thus, only a part of the ordinary costume of the late Choson period has remained until now.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.1-9
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• 1981

The object of this study lies in reviewing of the western costume history in the light of the negative regulations concerning costumes and adornments. Readings related with the subject lead to the following findings; 1. the principal purpose of the sumptuary laws has relationship with the social stratification of the feudalism and the frequency of their occurrence is related with the formation of feudal system, its decline, the appearance of imperial regimes and the start of civil revolutions. 2. Sumptuary regulations spread westward with the flow of civilization, eg., in the sequence of Italy, swiss, France, Britain and new world. 3. Sumptuary laws are also found in abundance in the english colonies of America, and their object seems to be rather of the moral concern than class distinction of economical restriction.4. The reviewed sumptuary regulations are concerned with : A. Material gold or silver clothes, silks, ermine, marten or miniver furs, velvets, laces and embroies. B. Colors-Purple, scarlet and red. Other colors do not show consistent pattern of color-status symbol; C. Form-Length and width of headdresses, shoes, collars, trains or hoops. E. numbers of dresses allowed to be worn.