• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.87-87
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• 2005

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.283-298
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• 1999

Bei-Wei(北魏) arose from Ta-ba clan(拓拔氏), a race belonging to Xian-bei(삼배) and it was the first foreign dynasty that reigned the central area of China in A.D 386-534. Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝) found it necessary to adopt the ruling mechanism of Han race's 'Sino-centralism' so as to establish orthodoxy of Xian-bei dynasty. He ordered Xian-bei people to channge their own costume for the costume of Han race. Costume was one of ruling means in Xiao-wen-di's case. However the revolutionary policy of Sinonizatio by Xiao-wen-di brought abuot serious conflicts and confrontations among classes of Xian-bei Xiao-bei wore their own costume and opposed Xiao-wen-di(孝文帝)'s policy Consequently Xian-wen-di(孝文帝)'s Sinonization policy accelerated the downfall of Bei-Wei(北魏). In the course of reformation and downfall of Bei-Wei(北魏) costume played an important role of representing national indentity.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2004.04a
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• pp.37-39
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• 2004

본 연구는 한반도에서 19세기말 중국 흑룡강성으로 이주해간 조선족의 복식을 문화접변과 정과 관련시켜 분석한 것이다. 연구의 범위는 19세기말 이주시기로부터 2002년 까지 이며 이 시기를 문화대혁명 이전 시기, 문화대혁명 시기, 개혁개방 시기 등 3시기로 시대적 성격을 구분하여 19세기말∼1965년, 1966년∼1977년, 1978∼2002년으로 나누어 분석하였다. 문화접변과량은 부분적 해체, 외래문화의 수용, 저항, 외래문화요소의 교해석, 부분적 해체의 계편, 교구성 등으로 나누었다. (중략)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper is a perspectiveon the reformative costume expressed by Gustav Klimt who led the Secession Movement as a great master in Vienna. Klimt actively expressed a new costume style in his paintings, which influenced heavily on the modern costume design. This paper may contribute to reestablish the constructive direction for the 21st century fashion design based on Klimt's pursuing holistic art concept. The reformative costume in Klimt's paintings has two characteristics; ornamentism, eroticism, and reformativeness. Ornamentism is expressed with fantastic colors, various motives, exotic features, simple style clothes, and so on. Klimt used independent ornaments to express carnal desires metaphorically, which set ornaments free to lead spectators to the dreamy or elusive state and even have spectators indulged in ecstasy. As the Secession Movement focused on reforming all areas of life artistically, the costumes of Klimt's paintings symbolically express the reformativeness; he portrayed the woman in the early 20th century and sought to reform its contemporary value as a visual sensuality. Klimt tried to disrupt from the former era by over-emphasizing eroticism. The erotic expression with the colors and the style of ornaments substitute naturally for suggestive eroticism of the feminine body. With has creativity, Klimt has spectators extract the various senses from the female image in his paintings. Klimt's creative spirit on the holistic art concept could be helpful to develop a unique design as a catalyst foreseeing over the present.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.45-54
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• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.162-175
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• 2014

This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.157-166
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• 2013

This study searches a transparency of financial management of Local government and then, tries to find a solutions to a management scheme to strengthen financial reform effectively. To summarize main contents: First, requirement of continued Public Accounting System. Second, contact of items of an account and items of a program budget, Third, requirement of construction cost accounting to estimate total cost inputting to public program objectively. Forth, improvement of rotation assign system and guaranteeing to professionalism and public official ethics. Fifth, requirement of strengthening inter-control and monitoring system. Sixth, auditing and role of accounting specialist group. Finally, construction of effective and practical computer system and continuing practice of R&D program.