• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.18 no.8
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• pp.353-365
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• 2018

This study is on the usage of bojagi recorded in Yeongjo Jeongsun Wanghu garye dogam uigwe. Major findings are as follows. The eighteenth century marked a period of entrenchment of Neo-Confucianism in the Joseon dynasty and the royal wedding was a tool to propagate Neo-Confucian values to the people. The bojagi used at King Yeongjo and Queen Jeongsun's wedding were made of simple red silk produced domestically to avoid extravagance. Uasge of costly flower-patterned silk from China was restricted to comply with the rules of the Kukhon jeongrye, which codified the royal marriage ceremony and the Sangbang jeongrye, which regulated royal attire. This modesty also shows King Yeongjo's determination to abandon lavishness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1883-1896
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• 2009

This paper explores the use of Korean wrapping cloths (bojagi) in the late Joseon period and the types of decorations applied to them. Korean wrapping cloths called bojagi are pieces of cloths used by households of all social classes for practical purposes such as wrapping presents and covering food. In addition to the basic purposes, the making of bojagi was also an activity to express the down-to-earth wishes and the satisfaction of creation by the designer. With regard to the decorative feature of Korean wrapping cloths, five types of, patchwork, embroidered, painted, printed, and oiled-paper wrapping cloths, were examined. The patchwork wrapping cloths (jogakbo) show the frugality of Joseon women in addition to the well-developed composition skill of lines and colors. The embroidered wrapping cloths were prepared for special rituals and ceremonies such as weddings. Painted wrapping cloths were decorated with a Chinese-colors technique (called dangchae) or sometimes with black ink painting. For printed wrapping cloths, various sizes of woodblock printings and roller printings were used. Although monotone black ink was the main color applied to the printing, there was also wrapping cloths made from chintz having brilliant fast colors. Oiled-paper wrapping cloths called sikjibo were in use only for covering food. Cut-out work was employed to decorate it.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.8
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• pp.71-79
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• 2007

The Conservation Science Team at National Museum of Korea has Reproduced the silk wrapper that was used the sarira reliquary found from Pagoda in the Bonginsa, in order to use it in the process of alternating the relics on display in the Hangeul(the Korean language) of the Historical Gallery. Silk fabric of the same texture as the original was used for reproduction. As for the process of dyeing silk fabric, fermented Indigo deposits was used for bluish color, while fruits of the alder trees were used to express the parts that have been faded into yellowish. The Korean characters(court style hangeul) written on the wrapper have been replicated through the use of Ink-stick.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.23
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• pp.49-60
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• 2020

The wrapping cloth with Cloud and Treasures Pattern donated by the head house of the descendants of Lee Hangbok (1556-1618) at the National Museum of Korea underwent conservation treatment for its protection and display. It was then compared with other ancient fabric objects for dating and analysis of the design. The subjects of Cloud and Treasures Patterns of clothing excavated from tombs dated to some point between the birth and death of Lee Hangbok and with Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the covers of Uigwe copies from the same period from the late 16th and 18th centuries were compared. The results of comparison with relics with clear dating are as follows: First, The Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the late 16th and 17th centuries the differences in the proportion between the head and the tail of the cloud among. Second, the Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the covers of Uigwe copies and fabrics excavated from tombs dated no later than the early 1700s share similarities with the Cloud and Treasures Pattern on the donated wrapping cloth in terms of the arrangement and size of designs and the proportion between each portion of the design. Though the study failed to identify the exact use of the wrapping cloth, it was estimated to be produced in early 18th century when the portraits of Lee Hangbok were copied.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2000.09b
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• pp.32-32
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• 2000

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.7 no.12
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• pp.1-12
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• 2007

In this study, the use of wrapping cloth was studied by examining documents and drawings from the past that reflect the life of people of the time with a focus on "minbo" (a wrapping cloth used by civilians) and "gungbo" (a wrapping cloth used by the ruling class). Unlike the bag culture of industrialized society, wrapping cloth has diversity, dynamic and receptiveness to changes as well as coexistence of 2 and 3-dimension. Environment-friendliness of recyclability of the cloth used for making wrapping cloth is not found in any other traditional transportation device cultures of the world. Such polysemous elements converge into a various functions with the development of technology and raw material and allow a package design from a new perspective. This study analyzes the above factors from a package design perspective to suggest an innovative modern package design that has fusional, diverse features.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.11-26
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• 2022

The Hallyu wave based on K-pop and K-culture has increased the global interest in Korean culture. Therefore, to satisfy consumer demand, there is an attempt to develop a variable fashion design using traditional Korean culture. Transformable fashion design causes changes in form and meaning according to various situations and needs and can induce active participation of consumers. Therefore, we intend to propose a transformable fashion design that is based on traditional Korean culture but appears in a new form and meets the needs of consumers of fashion design. Among Korean traditional culture, wrapping cloths, bojagi are practically used by ordinary people until now, and their shape and use change according to the user's needs. This study intends to derive expression characteristics by examining the expression tendencies of bojagi and to develop transformable fashion designs through the derived data. The purpose of this study is to make and propose transformable fashion designs in real life using the expression characteristics of Korean bojagi. As the method of this study, we first conducted a literature review. Through this, a case study of empirical production was conducted in parallel with the development and production of transformable fashion designs using bojagi. A total of three illustrations and six variable fashion designs were developed. Two of the six works are transformable fashion design that change through movement and expansion of the square shape, the prototype of the bojagi, and two works are modular, bringing changes in function through combination and separation. The work was produced as a multi-purpose transformable fashion design that can be used as clothes or a bag.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.29-40
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• 2009

On April 28th of 2006, a set of Buddha's reliquary was excavated from the pagoda in n Nacsan Temple. According to the record, the relics were put in the pagoda in the 18th year of King SookJong in the Chosun Dynasty (1692). The present paper examines ten pieces of wrapping clothes covering reliquary found in the pagoda. They are especially precious data in the history of textiles because they were blocked off from outside and was preserved in good condition with vivid colors still remaining after more than 300 years. Of the ten pieces of wrapping cloth, five were double-layered and the other five were single-layered. They include 15 pieces of silk fabric but, excluding repeated use of the same silk fabric, the total of 11 pieces of silk fabric were examined. All 11 kinds of silk fabric were patterned, 9 of which were Satin and the other 2 were Twill. Of the 9 Satin pieces, 8 pieces were 5-end satin which had the ground of 5-end warp satin with the figure of 5-end weft satin. The remaining 1 Satin piece were more splendid with prominent figures by using warp and weft of different colors. The 2 Twill pieces used twill weave-the ground was 3-end warp twill and the figures were 5-end weft twill. Both of the Twill pieces were weaved with character patterns, partly using wrapped gold thread as supplementary weft. The patterns of 11 pieces of silk fabric include flower, dragon/phoenix, cloud, and geometric patterns. Five were flower patterns, three were dragon/phoenix patterns, two were geometric pattern, and one was cloud pattern. In addition, various treasure patterns, character patterns were utilized as supplementary patterns. The flower and phoenix patterns reflect characteristics of the textiles of the 17th century whereas check pattern and cloud pattern were very unique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.6 s.154
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• pp.948-960
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• 2006

Chogakpos are highly artistic works created by Korean women as a part of the Kyubang culture in the Chosun Dynasty from the late 19th century to the early 20th. Tessellation is a plaid pattern composed of squares that covers a surface or a space with figures completely without any gap or overlap. The present study purposed to make a comparative analysis of the formative pattern of Chogakp and tessellation in order to show the superiority of Korean Kyubang(the women's quarters called Kyubang in the Chosun Dynasty) culture. As for the research method, we analyzed relevant materials to examine the geometric characteristics and formative principles of tessellation. In addition, we analyzed the formative pattern of Chogakpo using Photographs. The scope of this study was limited to 148 old Chogakpos contained in Huh Dong-hwa's 'Yetpojagi'. According to the results of this research, similarities between Chogakpo and tessellation were as follows. First, in a regular polygon, the face was divided into regular triangles, squares and two or more regular polygons. Second, in a polygon, the face was divided into triangles and quadrangles. Third, the symmetry of tessellation was applied to Cintamani pattern Pojagi. Differences between Chogakpo and tessellation were as follows. First, different from Chogakpo, tessellation had various formative patterns utilizing different regular polygons including hexagons. Second, there was no overlapping repetition in tessellation. Third, there was no free pattern in tessellation.