• Title/Summary/Keyword: 변퇴색

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유물복식의 전통색 추정을 위한 천연염색물의 변ㆍ퇴색과정에 관한 연구

  • 박명자
    • Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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    • 2003.04a
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    • pp.65-66
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    • 2003
  • 본 연구는 천연염색물 유물의 본래색인 전통색 추정을 위한 기초 실험중의 하나로, 천연염료와 전통섬유의 종류를 달리하여 전통염색방법을 따라 얻은 천연염색물을 이용하여 색변화에 가장 큰 영향을 주는 주변환경 중에서 세탁과 일광에 의한 천연염색물의 변퇴색의 거동경로를 분석하고자 하였다. 천연염료로는 우리나라에서 재배되는 홍화, 소방목, 치자, 황토, 능소화꽃잎, 지초, 먹물, 감물, 황련, 황백, 생쪽, 생쪽, 쪽, 산죽재, 신나무 등과 같은 15종류의 염료를 단독 혹은 혼합하여 이용하여 적색, 주황색, 연한 갈색, 진한 갈색, 황색, 청색, 자색, 흑색계열의 8종류의 색상을 지닌 천연염색물을 얻었다. (중략)

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Color Change of the Dyed Materials by Ultra-Violet and Visible Irradiation (자외선 및 가시광선에 의한 염색시료의 변퇴색)

  • 김홍범;한종성
    • Proceedings of the Korean Institute of IIIuminating and Electrical Installation Engineers Conference
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    • 1995.10a
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    • pp.13-18
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    • 1995
  • To evaluate the color change of the dyed materials by ultraviolet and visible rays in the museum, a system that accelerates dye fading was developed. Radiation energy from a Xenon lamp is irradiated on the samples through the filters of defferent cut-on wavelengths. As a result, the color change as a function of the wavelength and irradiation is calculated.

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The Color Fading and Staining of Fabrics by Drum-type Washer (드럼세탁기 사용시 세탁물의 변.퇴색 방지에 관한 연구)

  • Ryu, Hyo-Seon;Kim, Eun-Ah;Yun, Chang-Sang
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.32 no.6
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    • pp.947-958
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    • 2008
  • To study the effect of a washing machine with silver nano technology on its detergency, the discoloring of the dyed clothes and the staining of standards adjacent fabrics were examined. As the laundry specimen, cotton fabric dyed with reactive dyes and Polyester fabric dyed with disperse dyes were chosen; and as the adjacent fabrics, undyed cotton. polyester and nylon fabrics were chosen. The colorfastness was evaluated after washing under conditions that those washing temperature, liquor ratio, detergency concentration and the type of water were varied. When the clothes were washed with the tap water contains silver ion, the deposition of silver compounds into the washed clothes was measured. As a results, after the washing in the various conditions, discoloring of the dyed clothes was not intense. The higher the washing temperature and the lower the liquor ratio, the larger the staining appeared on the white fabrics; especially for the white nylon fabrics. The concentration of detergent and the type of water affected hardly the colorfastness. After the repeated washing with the water contains silver, whiteness of the cotton and the nylon fabrics were lower than the result after the washing with the tap water, and a quantity of silver ions was found on the washed clothes.

Research on changes of color measurements and pH Value During the Fumigation Treatment of Paintings (훈증(燻蒸)소독에 따른 서화류(書畵類)의 안료변색(顔料變色) 및 pH변화 유무(有無) 조사(調査))

  • Yoo, Hye-young;Kim, Kyoung-su;Yi, Yong-hee
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.1
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    • pp.43-51
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    • 1999
  • This is a brief study on the influence of fumigation (using mixed gas of methyl bromide and ethylene oxide) on old paintings. Fumigation is principally used to prevent biological damage of objects. Thirteen objects, including old colored map from Chosǒn Dynasty and some paintings, were selected for this research. Before and after fumigation, color measurements were made and changes of pH value were measured. The result is that the fumigation did not affect on discoloration of colored area and acidity of paper, as far as the standard of application(such as concentration of gas, exposing time and ect.) of fumigation was kept.

Discoloration with Indigo Blue 1 dyed PLA Fabric - Washfastness (Indigo Blue 1으로 염색된 PLA섬유의 변.퇴색성 : 세탁견뢰도를 중심으로)

  • Jeong, Dong-Seok;Chun, Tae-Il;Lee, Mun-Cheul
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2012.03a
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    • pp.53-53
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    • 2012
  • Poly(lactic acid)(이하 PLA라 칭함)는 초기 연구에서는 제조비용과 희귀성으로 봉합사 등의 의료용 등의 용도가 제한적이었으나 1980년대의 유전공학의 발전과 이를 바탕으로 1990년 이후 농업의 혁신적인 변화를 거쳐 옥수수의 여러 측면의 이용 중의 하나로서 2000년 초에 양산화에 성공하여, 의류, 필름 및 플라스틱의 다양한 분야에서 적용되고 있다. PLA의 장점은 석유가 아닌 천연 원료에서 얻을 수 있으며, 기존의 합성섬유와는 달리 일정한 조건하에서 미생물 등에 의해 물과 이산화탄소로 분해되는 친환경적인 소재이다. 합성섬유 중에서 의류용의 대부분 차지하는 폴리에스테르(이하 PET라 칭함)와 유사한 물성을 가지고 있는 PLA섬유는 PET섬유와 유사한 분산염료로 염색할 수 있다. 따라서 PLA섬유는 분산염료에 의한 염색법을 중심으로 연구되어지고 있으나, PET 섬유의 융점이 $254^{\circ}C$부근인 반면, PLA섬유는 $160-170^{\circ}C$ 부근이다. 이로 인해 PLA를 섬유로 용도전개에 있어서 약점으로 작용하고 있다. 그러나 PLA섬유는 특유의 경량감과 새로운 촉감 등의 많은 장점을 지니고 있어 여러 가지 용도전개가 되어지고 있다. 배트염료는 그 자체로서는 불용성으로 섬유와 친화성이 낮지만, 알칼리성 환원욕에서 셀룰로오스 섬유 등에 친화성이 있다. 화학구조적으로 안트라키논, 인디고계가 주류를 이루고 있으며, 색상적으로는 화학구조의 제약으로 선명도가 약깐 낮은 중간색 계통이 대부분이지만, 견뢰도 면에서는 다른 염료에서는 얻을 수 없는 높은 견뢰도를 가지는 것이 배트염료가 지니는 장점중의 하나이다. 셀룰로오스계 섬유에 주로 이용되는 배트염료를 나일론과 폴리에스테르 중심으로 합성섬유에 적용하는 연구 및 실용화가 되어지고 있다. 본 연구에서는 Indigo Blue 1을 중심으로 염색된 PLA섬유의 반복 세탁에 의한 염색물의 변 퇴색성을 조사하였다.

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A Study on the Measurement of Colour Fastness by CCM and New Fastness Formula (CCM을 이용한 변퇴색 견뢰도 등급의 판정 및 New Fastness Formula에 관한 연구)

  • Hong Min-Gi;Park Ju-Young;Park Yong-Mi;Koo Kang;Huh Man-Woo;Kim Sam-Soo
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.18 no.2 s.87
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    • pp.15-23
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    • 2006
  • A new fastness formula based on CIEDE2000 color-difference formula is developed by B. Rigg and his coworkers. It is very simple to calculate fastness grade for color change than ISO 105-A05 fastness formula based on CIELAB color-difference formula. Sample pair sets which cover a wide range color space were accumulated from NCS(Natural Color System) color book. For those sample pair sets, visual measurement experiment and instrument measurement experiment of fastness grade were carried out and each performance of ISO 105-A02 fastness formula and newly developed fastness formula was compared through degree of agreement for visual measurement result. Newly developed fastness formula indicated improved performance for measuring fastness grade but current ISO fastness formula for assessing change in color, ISO 105-A05, was confirmed that it's performance is inadequate to measure fastness grade. Then fastness formulae were examined more closely according to particular color spaces and the correlation of hue, lightness and chrom for measuring fastness grade was also considered in this study.

The Effect of Temperature Changes on Dyeing Characteristics in Natural Dyeing on Caesalpinia sappan using Machine Systems (기계화시스템을 이용한 소목 천연염색시 온도변화가 염색 특성에 미치는 영향)

  • Kim, Na-Ri;Cho, Kyung-Chul;Park, Si-Woo;Chun, Du-Hwan
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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    • 2012.03a
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    • pp.85-85
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    • 2012
  • 천연염색은 독성과 환경오염이 적으며 합성염료로는 얻기 어려운 자연스러운 색감 등을 표현할 수 있는 장점에 비하여 염색과정 및 보관의 어려움, 재현성 부족, 낮은 염착량과 견뢰도, 염색과정에서 노동력이 많이 소비되어 대량생산의 어려움 등의 문제점으로 인해 아직 공업화되지 못하고 있다. 천연염료는 합성염료에 비해 색상이 차분하고 은은하며 변퇴색이 일어나도 안정된 색감을 나타낼 뿐 아니라 매염제에 의해 다양한 명도와 색상변화를 꾀할 수 있어 천연염색물에 대한 소비자의 수요가 최근 증가하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 천연염색 공정의 기계화를 통해 대량생산 및 재현성 확보가 가능한 100yd급 염색시스템을 설계 제작하고 천연염료인 소목을 이용하여, 면 및 견을 포함한 10종의 원단에 염액비(1:20), 매염제($FeSO_4{\cdot}7H_2O$)를 사용하여 염색 온도변화($20^{\circ}C{\sim}80^{\circ}C$)에 따른 원단별 염색특성을 평가하였다. 평가결과 세탁견뢰도는 온도가 증가할수록 대부분의 원단에서 견뢰도가 상승하였으며, 염색된 원단내의 색차(${\Delta}E$) 평가에서 대부분의 원단에서 1.0미만의 균염성을 나타내었다.

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Color Changes in Natural-Dyed Fabrics for Inference of the Original Color -through Repetitive Washing- (천연염색물의 본래색 추정을 위한 변퇴색 경로에 관한 연구 -반복세탁을 중심으로-)

  • 박명자;윤양노
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.4 no.3
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    • pp.9-15
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    • 2002
  • Compared with synthetic dyes, natural dyes have inferior colorfastness as a result of the exposure of the material to any environment that may be encountered during the processing, testing, storage, display or use of the dyed materials. Especially, colors on fabrics fade excessively after washing. Therefore, it is problem to infer the historic textiles with natural-dyed fabrics. The object of this study is to analyse the factors affected to colorfastness and color change during washing. In experimental, fifteen natural dyes were dyed by the Korean traditional dyeing methods onto natural fiber fabrics: cotton, silk, ramie, and flex. Total 49 dyed fabrics in combination with dyes and fibers were used for the specimen. The Launder-Ometer was used for evaluating the effects of exposure to repetitive washing from 1 to 20 washing cycles (KS K 0430). Color difference(ΔE) in the CIEL*A*B* color-order system were determined by spectrophotometer at 100 bserver. Washing caused significant changes in the color of natural-dyed fabrics. The degree and nature of color changes on the fabrics were dependent on the combination of fiber and the dye type used. The groups of violet(Lithospermum erythrorhizon Sieb.et Zucc) and black color(Ailanthus altissima Swingle, Phus trichocarpa Miq) yielded excellent colorfastness to repetitive washing. The group of indigo blue color(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) was also very resistant to color change in washing except silk. Whereas the dye groups of Red, Yellow, Orange, Brown colors indicated greatest changes in color, particularly Carthamus tinctorius L.

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Analysis of Dyes and Mordants of 16~17th Century Textiles Excavated from Daejeon (16~17세기 출토염직품의 염료와 매염제 분석)

  • Baek, Young-Mee;Kwon, Young-Suk;Goto-Doshida, Sumiko;Saito, Masako
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.119-129
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    • 2012
  • Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.