• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.77-78
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• 2001

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.381-393
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• 2007

This study was intended to analyze and investigate a diversity of aesthetic values expressed in the military look of the Milan collections by using content analysis method to find what design characteristic and image emerged concretely in the later 20th century. A total of 334 military look works shown in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Collezioni Donna over the period between 1996 and 2000 were collected as research data, which were classified into 5 categories such as item, silhouette, color, color coordination, fashion image. The results were summarized as follows: first, it was found that coat was the most preferred item in expressing the military look image. Second, it was found that the straight line was the most preferred silhouette, which indicates that it was the most suitable silhouette in expressing the bisexual image of the military look. Third, in the colors of the military look, achromatic colors such as black and white were found to be of the highest frequency, which shows that achromatic colors continued to be proposed as fashionable colors around 1996 and this influence was reflected in the military look. Finally, in terms of the item of color coordination, monochromatic coordination accounted for more than half of the military look, through which it could be explained that designers utilized it greatly to make an effective expression of the masculine image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.11
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• pp.1844-1858
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• 2010

Ethnical tendency follows the current political, economical, and cultural influence eastwards, highlighting films, architecture and interiors as well as fashion. With this tendency, the ethnic outfits are expressed by various styles. This study analyzes the features of current ethnic styles with 1,535 ethnic image pieces from 2005 S/S to 2010 F/W of Pr${\^{e}}$t-${\'{a}}$-Porte in Paris and Milan. First, 'ethnic' is to refer to the distinct features of an ethnic group or a country. 'Ethnic look' refers to the adaptation or re-arrangement of various ethnic group's traditional costumes, dying, textile, patterns, color, silhouettes, and accessories. Second, the most popular ethnics in the modern fashion is the African style, followed by India, Japan, China, and Latin America in both collections. Third, the proportion of ethnics decreased, 2005 (14.9%), 2006 (12.8%) and 2007 (8.2%). In 2008 the proportion increased again. 2010 (27.3%) and compared 2010 to 2007, it increased by 20%. By season, S/S had 1.4 times more ethnic styles than F/W with the prevalence of African and Indian styles. Fourth, as of 2005, the ethnic style became colorful and went through changes to combine various images. This is from the polycentric tendency of co-existing various styles with a prevalence of low tone and various colors. It also shows warm colors in front to show a sense of nature.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.8 no.12
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• pp.151-159
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• 2008

Today, every social phenomenon has there own trend. However, the lead of all trend is taken by fashion trend connected with the change of clothes. Fashion collection shows overall trends and characteristics of fashion trends, and fashion collections in Paris, Milano, New York, and London, known as the world's top four collections, are creating latest trends. Collections of fashion designers, who deliver these trends in a quickest way, show all elements ranging from fashion to make-up, hair, and accessories. New make-up trends of every season are introduced in fashion collection, since a fashion collection is a venue where not only various designs or colors, but also diverse image concepts are experimented. Therefore, this study aims to analyze make-up trend found in the world top four fashion collections and get into the influence on new trend of cosmetic brands.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.6
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• pp.881-892
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• 2001

Applying the globalization theory to the fashion phenomena which regarded the phenomena of the contemporary culture as globalization, this study had an object of looking into the globalization tendency of the fashion phenomena shown Paris, London, Milno, New York, Tokyo, and Seoul collections from 1995 to 1999. The results of this study were as follows; 1. It was the blend of romanticism that was the most common trend shown at the six world collections. 2. The works appeared at the six world collections showed the regional peculiarity under the historical background or the sociocultural influence each city had. 3. Another character appeared at the six city collections was the appearance of multi-ethnic style mixed various regional motive at a work. After all, the world fashion phenomena in the second half of 1990's could be condensed into globalization appeared homogenization, regionalization and hybridization at the same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.145-162
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• 2019

This study reviewed photos of women's jackets shown at Milano Collections from 2013 S/S to 2017 F/W to identify the variations and trends in their structural components and design elements with respect to year and season. 576 photos, which consist of 276 S/S jackets and 300 F/W jackets by renowned Italian luxury fashion brands; Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara and Jil Sander, were analyzed. Some of the highlighted findings are as follows; in the structural aspects, the H-line silhouette, below waist to hip line length, natural shoulder line and single button closure were the most frequently appearing components among all the jackets. For the design elements, the largest number of jackets was made of woven fabric in single color, while fur was mostly used in F/W seasons for its warmth, heaviness and bulky appearance. From the results, it was established that variations were made to the jacket components and design elements to the extent that they convey predominant jacket styles with a certain level of practicality and performance. However, the study also found that some of the jackets demonstrated design diversity and innovation by adopting daring styles, bold materials and colors. As the findings of this study identified the variations and trends in women's jacket components in recent years, they can be applied towards developing high end women's jackets to meet the demands and distinctive needs of luxury clothing buyers and distributors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.144-158
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• 2010

The concept and the typical characteristics of ethnic fashion were studied. 267 fashion designs from pret-$\grave{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: The major types of ethnic fashion are Africa, American Indian, Japan, India, China, and Inca. Among these types, the first volume is Africa, the second is American Indian and others are Japan, India, China and Inca in order. Ethnic fashion changes in years showed reduction from 2001 to 2004, but much rise in 2005 showed more than 30% from 2001. Much more ethnic fashion designs were presented in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. Africa ethnic fashion designs were more popular in S/S seasons. India ethnic fashion designs were more popular in F/W seasons. In the comparison of the Milan and New York collection, ethnic fashion designs appeared more in Milan collections than in New York from 2001 to 2003. But ethnic fashion designs appeared more in New York collections than in Milan in the year of 2005.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.116-130
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• 2011

Ethnic fashion and makeup were studied. 264 fashion designs from pret-$\`{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: 1. The major types of ethnic fashion and makeup were Africa. American Indian. Japan, India. China and Inca. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were soft smoky, smoky, retro, nature, avant-garde, eastern. 2. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were used for the image for the designer's collections rather than ethnic features. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more used than others. 3. Soft smoky makeup types were more expressed in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. In F/W seasons soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than other types. 4. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than others in Milan and New York collections commonly. 5. To emphasize the ethnic image for ethnic fashion, ethnic makeup arts like China, Japan, India, Africa, American Indian, Inca makeup arts and soft smoky, smoky makeup arts were represented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.343-353
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• 2003

In this research, the fashion images, which expressed the same theme during the same season in four different fashion collections, were interpreted as emotional characteristics stemming from different factors according to the emotions and images of the regions where the collections were held. The theme, futurism appeared to be hackneyed and oppressive in Paris fashion which emphasized artistic representation of the theme. And futurism appeared to be expressed to be dazzling, unnatural in London fashion which was innovative and avant-garde. And the New York fashion, which accentuated practical, sportive, and elegant styles created active and graceful image about the futurism and the Milan fashion showed the balanced mixture of the three cities' images above. It is interpreted that our domestic fashion consumers think artistic, formative, original, and emotional images as hackneyed and oppressive. On the other hand, they feel comfortable, cheerful, unaffected and graceful about the images that are functional (rather than artistic), sportive, and moderately elegant. And the innovative and avant-garde images like the ones in London collection seem to make people feel unnatural, dazzled, and even depressed. In short, domestic fashion consumers think that the excessive, innovative, original, and formative fashion images appeared I London and Paris are hackneyed and dark rather than artistic, original, or dynamic. On the contrary, the moderate, practical, sportive and elegant New York images and the Milan's which equally showed the three cities' characteristics are regarded as comfortable, elegant, bright, and positive. This result indicates that the fashion market in certain regions seek shared fashion trends and the difference between the regions reflects the different interpretation of fashion themes.