• 제목/요약/키워드: 민속학

검색결과 186건 처리시간 0.022초

현대 산업 직물디자인에 응용된 수공예적 요소의 의미 (Meaning of Handicraft Elements as Applied to Modern Textile Design)

  • 박남성
    • 디자인학연구
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    • 제16권4호
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    • pp.299-312
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    • 2003
  • 현대의 산업은 고도의 첨단 과학기술과 함께 창의적 감각이 산업의 중요한 요소로 작용하고 있다. 현대 직물 산업에서도 이 두 요소는 서로 밀접한 연관을 맺으면서 전례 없는 고품질, 고기능, 고감도의 고부가가치 직물을 등장시키고 있다. 특히 창의적 감각은 직물의 부가가치 창출에 필요한 것으로, 현대인이 추구하는 다양화, 개성화, 차별화 된 제품 개발을 위해서는 더욱 중요하다. 본 연구는 현대 직물디자인의 부가가치 창출에 지대한 영향을 미치고 있는 수공예의 중요성을 인식하고 이 기법이 제시한 응용 가능성 및 미적 창출방법을 고찰하여 창조적 현대직물 디자인 개발에 기여하고자 하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같이 요약된다. 수공예적 요소는 현대 직물디자인에 응용되어, 1) 신소재에 수공예의 감성적 접근을 시도하여 과학과 예술이 결합된 미래적이고 전위적인 외관의 직물을 창조함으로서 산업직물의 예술화 경향에 기여하였고, 2) 수공예기법의 정교함을 기술적으로 완벽하게 산업직물에 구사하여 희소가치를 창출함으로서 직물의 고급화 경향을 선도하였으며, 3) 다양한 민속적 수공예 기법을 현대 직물디자인에 응용하여 문화의 혼합현상을 통해 이국적이며 다문화적 성격의 에스닉 경향을 제시하고 있다. 이상과 같이 수공예적 요소는 현대 산업 직물디자인에 응용되어 감성적, 시각적 측면을 부각시킴으로서 직물의 가치창출에 기여하였으며, 소재가 새로운 디자인 요소로 작용하여 새로운 직물 경향과 유행을 선도 할 수 있게 되었다.

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출토 의복의 표백과 유실된 직물의 추정 - 충장공 김덕령장군 의복(중요민속자료 111 호)의 보존처리 - (Bleaching Treatment of Excavated Costumes and Inference of Missing Fabrics - Conservation Treatment of General Kim’s Costumes -)

  • 이미식;홍문경;배순화;안명숙
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제30권7호
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    • pp.1160-1167
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    • 2006
  • The most ideal textile conservation is to block oxygen and light from historical textiles. However it is not possible because historical textiles should be examined, cleaned, restored, and exhibited to find out its historical value. Most of excavated costumes were severely stained and soiled. They are dark yellowish brown in color. To reduce the extent and intensity of the staining and to recover the original color of gray fabrics, bleaching would be required. Conservation treatment was carried out on the 8 historical costumes which belonged to General Duk-Ryung Kim(1567-1596). Two of them do not hold the fabrics. They hold only cotton wool and a little piece of fabrics. Even though these costumes underwent the conservation treatment in 1979, they were stained and needed re-treatment. This time, they were dual-bleached using hydrogen peroxide and sodiumborohydride followed by wet cleaning to reduce the soils and stains. The treatments improved the appearance of costumes. Through the analysis of the trace of fabric, carbonized fabric fragment, and fabrics remained in other garments, we concluded the missing fabrics to be ramie or cotton. It is different result from the primary report concluded to be silk.

서민복식문화에 관한 연구(II) -경북 금오산 주변지역의 민속조사 결과를 중심으로- (A Study of Folk Costume Culture (II) -Field Research Around the Mt. Kumo Area-)

  • 홍나영;이은주;임재영
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제19권1호
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    • pp.71-79
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    • 1995
  • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

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민속 마을 관리상 발생하는 사회적 갈등의 이해 -하회마을을 중심으로- (Understanding the Social Dilemma of Hahoe Folk Village Management)

  • 유영민;장혜진;박노천;김용근
    • 한국조경학회지
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    • 제33권5호통권112호
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    • pp.31-42
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    • 2005
  • This study has been conducted in order to better understand a concrete and evidential disagreement that resulted from a conflict caused by the exploitation of folk village for tourism purposes. The purpose of this study was to analyze more realistically the phenomenon of the disagreement that originated from sightseeing in the hahoe folk villages by focusing on the problem between the ive groups as a potential and continual impediment to tourism. Two groups, residents and tourists, were compared in order to determine the underlying factors of the disagreement regarding exploitation of folk villages for tourism The two groups were clearly split: inhabitants of the village considered such exploitation negative, while tourists accepted it as positive. The two groups showed different understandings of the topic residents were in favor of the preservation of the physical resources, but against exposure of their private lives to the public, while tourists strongly respected the preservation of the resources of the village. A comparison of the common phenomena of disagreement between the two groups was performed, Variables that showed different responses between the two groups were loss of privacy of individual houses, verbal aggression and physical conflicts between the groups, and lack of administration. In most of the cases of disagreement, residents considered the disagreement phenomena to be more serious than tourists did except in one case: tourists placed a greater importance on the ugly view of the street market. Finally, in order to analyze the factors that impacted the level of the disagreement, a multiple regression analysis was conducted. Disagreement factors affecting tourists were verbal aggression between the groups, complaints about lodging and dining facilities, complaints about tourist facilities, and negligence of the administration in responding to requests. Among these, the most influential factor was verbal aggression between the groups. In fact, individual feelings between tourists and residents proved to be the biggest influence on the level of disagreement.

불가리아 민족복식의 고찰 - 여성복을 중심으로 - (A Study on Bulgarian Folk Costume - Focusing on Woman's Costume -)

  • 나수임
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제11권1호
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    • pp.53-62
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    • 2009
  • Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

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A Textsetting for Reading SprungRhythm

  • Kim Key-seop
    • 대한음성학회지:말소리
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    • 제31_32호
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    • pp.141-162
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    • 1996
  • Hopkins의 도약률(Sprung Rhythm)은 영어의 운율자질인 강세에 의한 엄격한 정형률을 고수하고 있다. 즉 약강 5보격이나 약강 6보격의 정형률을 지킨다고 Hopkins는 주장한다. 일반 독자나 운율비평가는 이를 인정한다. 문제는 시인의 음량(quantity) 기준에 의하여 강, 약 자리를 어떻게 충족시키고 있느냐 하는 점이다. 모든 비평가는 Hopkins의 음량 기준의 지나친 편의성과 임의성, 및 응통성?에 대하여 그의 음량 이론을 수용하려하지 않는다. 그러나 Kiparsky는 Hopkins의 설명에 따라 시인의 도약률을 분석하면 시인의 음량 이론이 이유 있음을 설명해 보인다. Kiparsky의 분석에서 문제점은 없는가? 만약 있다면 그것은 바로 Hopkins의 음량이론의 문제점이 될 것이다. 이 연구에서는 Hopkins의 편지 속의 설명은 실제로 독자의 낭송 속에서 어떻게 실현될 것인가 즉 '귀로 듣고 감상(ear and taste)'할 때 나타날 리듬형, 즉 낭송의 틀에 의한 분석을 시도하였다. 그것은 도약률이야 말로 읽히기 위한 것이며 '보는 시'가 아니라는 전제에서이다. 여기에서는 낭송에서 나타날 도약률의 음량과 장단, 즉 지속시간을 하나의 '낭송보(Textsetting for Sprung Rhythm)'에서 투사해 보고자 했다. 그 낭송보는 Hayes & Kan(1994)의 '어린이의 민속노래 보(Textsetting for Children's Folk Songs)'를 원용하였다. 약강 4,5,6보격, 강약 4,5,6보격의 일정한 강세 모습과 일정한 지속시간을 보여주는 도약률의 '낭송보'는 다음과 같다('약'자리와 '강'자리의 간격은 일정하게 보고 '강'의 돋들림은 격자로 더 높게 표시하였다). 이와 같은 낭송보는 독자, 즉 낭송자의 낭송 가능 범위를 그려 준다. 즉 약자리의 두개나 그 이상의 음절을 한꺼번에 낭송할 수 있음을 보여 준다. 그 음은 자연히 연음(slurring)이 되기 마련이다. 그러므로 이 연구는 다음과 같은 사실을 규명해 준다. 첫째, 어떤 시행도 규칙적인 박으로 낭송된다. 둘째, 음량은 박자에 의하여 좌우된다. 즉 강과 약자리의 일정한 지속시간의 범위 내에서는 몇 개의 음절도 낭송이 가능하다. 그것은 일정한 간격의 자리를 나타내는 격자로 결정된다. 따라서 모라(morae)의 개념보다도 박자의 개념으로 도약률은 낭송된다. 셋째, 모든 약자리와 강자리는 일정한 간격과 실제의 박(묵박도 포함)에 의하여 규칙적이다. 넷째, 외율음보는 격자의 길이내에서 낭송된다. 그러나 이 연구의 기본은 시인과 독자의 율형(Metrical Pattern)에 대한 의식과 의도(intention)가 전제된다. 이것은 이 연구의 문제임과 동시에 장점이다. 시율의 분석은 보는 율형이 아니라 읽고 낭송하는 율형으로 분석되어야 함을 보여 준 것이 이 연구의 기여이다.

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우리나라 서민녀의 일상복에 관한 민속학적 연구 (조선조말~1950년대) (A Study on Everday Wear of Korean Common Woman with Folklore)

  • 이주원
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제28권4호
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    • pp.15-30
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    • 1990
  • From now, we've made a study of Korean Clothing about our Royal family's or high birth person's and made little of our plain folk's. Our traditional clothing is plain folk's clothing and that is our fundamental clothing, so plain folk's clothing has an important part in our life. In this point, first we were concerned about the plain folk woman's clothing in the plain folk's clothing and it consists of the way of ethnographic method like listening from the lod about their contant living wear-daily wear. This research covers the time from the end of the Yee-Dynasty to 1950's and the place, each province where the primitive dwellers still live and respondent's age range is about from 60 to 80. In the viwepoint of our climate and construction, women should be over-worn an underwear and they have worn the underwear for the purpose of their heating and the inflating of the skirt. The end of the Yee-Dynasty, high society person wore underwear 7-8 layers thick and also the sow society person wore it 3-4 layers thick. The Plain folk woman clothing's basic system is the skirt and Korean jacket and dari-sok-got, sok-sok-got, pants, dan-sok-got as an underwear, and Korean socks and Korean shoes(straw shoes) are added. This research discusses these clothing by dividing them into each part and enlighten the peculiarity, shape, cloth and how to construct and especially about the difficult-making Korean jacket, we handled the method of rough guess sizing. As the result, we found that each province had a similar peculiarity in the general clothing but they had a different cloth name and a wearing method. Especially, An-dong an Eum-sung, they'd worn their own traditional wear, sal-chang-hojaengiee. We made a good product of rough guess sizing data those have not been known.

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현대 패션에 나타난 민속풍(Ethnic look)에 관한 연구 (A Study on Ethnic look Expressed in Modern Fashion)

  • 정연자
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제31권4호
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    • pp.215-229
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    • 1993
  • As a result of making an inquiry into the ethnic look of each region appearing in present-day fashion by Asia. America and Oceania. Africa and Europe as mentioned above, its characteristics could be summarized as follows: Firstly the Asian ethnic look consists of Indian, Chinese and Japanese looks as mainstream. In terms of form, the draped form constituted its mainstream, and both the draped form and the tunic form are appearing Simultaneously in the Chinese look. And in respect to color the Indian look is using luxurious primary colors red, blue, yellow and green and other regions are making overall use of natural colors. With respect to ornament various kinds of ornaments is utilized in Indian's Sari and turban. Chines's Coolie hat, straw hat and embroidery, knotted button, and bead ornament, and Japan's Obi and Obijime, etc. Secondly in America and Oceania, costurme representing the Indian look in North America and the picture of Western pioneer, and the Peruvian, Mexican and chilean ethnic looks in South America were expressing much. Here, the form consistied a draped form as its main strem, such colors as yellow, purple, grey, etc were much utilized, and the material of costume comprised knits, cotton and the like. And the ornament consisted of hats, tassel ornaments, bead ornaments, metal chain belt, long braided hair, etc. Thirdly, the African ethnic look had an exposing form and a draped form, and such colors as black, white, yellow, brown, etc were used as the fashion color. Ornaments such as precious stone, bead ornaments, animal bones, straw metal ornament, etc were used as fashion decorations. Fourthly, Russia's Cossack look, Bulgaria's Bavshika look, spain's ethnic look cane to the fore as the European look Both the draped form and the tunic form were used simultaneously as fashion form. And grey, brown, purple, etc were much used as fashion color in the European look. Such ornaments as Cossack. Bavshka, boots, tassel ornaments were much used and paisley pattern also was used.

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한국의 민속주에 관한 고찰(II) -전라도.경상도.제주도 지방을 중심으로- (Study on Traditional Folk Wine of Korea -In the Southern Region of Korea-Chulla-do, Kyungsang-do and Cheju-do-)

  • 윤숙자;박덕훈
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제9권4호
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    • pp.355-367
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    • 1994
  • This study aims at exploring the nature of the traditional Korean wines brewed throughout the Southern Region of Korea-Chulla-do, Kyungsang-do and Cheju-do describing their varieties and brewing methods and also comparing the similarities and differences of their features. When compared with the wines produced in the Central Region, the Southern varieties are very fastidious and complex in their brewing methods, which in turn show a wide range of diversity. First of all, all the 29 kinds of wines investigated, not a single one shows any resemblance to any one of the remaining, each exhibiting peculiar and particular characteristic features of its own. Especially, the distilling methods demonstrate very complex processes. Secondly, the majority of the Southern spirits are made from grains, added with fragrant flavor of pine tree, wormwood, chrysanthemum leaves and other medicine herbs such as Chinese matrimony vine and tankui. Thirdly, they are brewed with yeast made from wheat into kodupap(steamed rice) type of spirits, emerging as in the form of blended liquor. Fourthly, in brewing, different fermenting temperature and duration are required. Typewise, the temperature required for the basic spirit is $15{\sim}20^{\circ}C\;or\;25{\sim}30^{\circ}C$ : in the case of blended secondarily fermented liquor, from the minimum of $0{\sim}5^{\circ}C$ to the maximum of $75{\sim}80^{\circ}C$. The brewing duration is $3{\sim}5$ days for the basic spirits. In some cases, from the minimum of 3 days to the maximum of 100 days are consumed for fermenting. Fifthly, the wine extraction gadgets are yongsu (wine strainer), the sieve, filter paper, Korean traditional paper, the utilization of which implies that the brewers endeavor to observe and preserve the traditional and indigenous methods of wine making.

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한국의 민속주에 관한 고찰(I) -서울.경기도.강원도.충청도 지방을 중심으로- (Study on Traditional Folk Wine of Korea -In the Central Region of Korea-Seoul, Kyonnggi-do, Chungchung-do-)

  • 윤숙자;장명숙
    • 한국식생활문화학회지
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    • 제9권4호
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    • pp.341-353
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    • 1994
  • This study delves into the general characteristics of spirits brewed in the Central Region of Korea-Seoul, Kyonnggi-do, Chungchung-do-paying particular attention to their varieties and fermenting methods and also comparing similarities and differences of their features. It is found first of all that there are a wide range of variety in the kinds of liquors. Among the 21 spirits investigated, not a single one resembles any one of the remaining in terms of the raw material, and the brewing method and process. Secondly, all of them use locally produced grains and can be classifiable as belonging to the common category of yakju (clean spirit) with fragrant elements added for the purpose of enhancing health or decreasing any harmful effects after drink. Thirdly, these traditional folk wines are characterized by the addition of secondarily fermented spirits. The more secondarily fermented spirit a wine has, the more fragrant and palatable it becomes and also the less harmful. Fourthly, all the spirits of this region are fermented by using yeast kodupap (steamed rice). The brewing temperature is usually around $15{\sim}20^{\circ}C$ for $5{\sim}8$ days or $3{\sim}4$ days for the majority of the cases. Fifthly, purifying is done with the yongsoo (strainer), the sieve, traditional Korean paper, etc. As such, we can say that all the brewers endeavor to maintain Korean traditional methods of wine making.

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