• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제38권2호
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• pp.175-179
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• 1996

천연염료의 염재중 적색 색상을 발현하기 위하여 소목에 의한 견 및 모시직물의 염색에 있어서 염색조건과 매염제 종류에 따라 염색직물의 색채변화, 염착농도(K/S) 및 염색견뇌도를 측정한 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 소목량에 따라 염색한 견과 모시직물의 색채변화는 다소 있는 것으로 나타났으며, 염착농도는 약 15g/l 소목량이 사용된 경우가 적당하였다. 2. 염색액의 pH별 견직물에 대한 염착농도(K/S)는 pH 3.5~6.5 범위내에서는 큰 차이가 없었으나, 모시 직물은 pH가 높을수록 염착농도(K/S)가 증가하였다. 3. 염색온도 30~9$0^{\circ}C$에서의 염착농도를 비교하여 보면 견 및 모시직물 모두 9$0^{\circ}C$에서 가장 높았다. 4. 매염재 처리 염색으로 견 및 모시 직물에 다른 색채의 발현이 가능하였으며, 염색견뇌도를 다소 향상시킬 수 있었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권3호
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• pp.380-390
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• 2005

The effect of high purity chitosan was studied on its application to the natural dyeing using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were introduced on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, we found that, in the case of cotton, chitosan untreated fabrics were not dyed enough, and the dyeing effect was not developed even though the mordanting was introduced. However, the chitosan treated fabrics developed excellent dyeing result even in the non-mordanting case. Through the results of cotton fabric dyeing, it was presumed that the dyeing affinity of the chitosan toward the Rhusjara ica, which prefer specific dyestuff (mainly black color), is selectively high. In the case of nylon, the dyeing effect is not developed easily under all conditions regardless of the chitosan treatment or the mordant treatment. It was inferred that a certain portion of the Rhusjara ica dyestuff made direct bonding with the functional elements in the nylon molecules without the help of the mordant. Through the results of nylon fabrics, it was presumed that some functional elements of the nylon molecules had selective affinity toward the specific colorant (mainly yellow color) of the Rhusjara ica.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권8호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

Ash solutions derived from vegetation have been known for their good mordanting action. They are used as finishing agents because they are able to promote dye uptake. It is expected that the types of ash solutions may have been different worker by worker since the workers have employed easy-to-get plants, when we reviewed old literature. However, the ash solutions are being used without clear distinctions between their characteristics. In this study, camellia ash solution and rice straw ash solution were prepared according to traditional methods. Using these solutions as mordanting agents, natural dyeing experiments with Caesdpinia Sappan were peformed. Following the dyeing procedure, the effect of the type of ash solution on the color of the dyed fabric was evaluated. The results showed that the ash solution mordanting effect us not dependent upon the components of the ash solution. It was also demonstrated that the mordanting effect was not based on the action of the metallic ions in the ash solution. The pH values of the ash solutions were adjusted in order to investigate the effect of changes in ash solution alkalinity on the dyeing process. The pH values ranged from neutral or weak acidity to the alkaline range in order to evaluate the characteristics of the mordanting tv the ash solutions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.256-265
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.92-101
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• 2007

This research was carried out following the preceding research on natural cellulose fabrics dyed with extract of fresh african marigold petals. Dyeability on fabrics was tested by dyeing with wool and silk which are natural protein fibers. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants, examining the changes in the surface color, K/S value, and maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. Wool fabrics showed color tone of medium or less saturation and brightness, in dark yellow color series. An orange color of high saturation was only obtained by tin mordanting. Wool showed higher K/S value than cellulose fibers. In summary, marigold dye has more affinity for protein fibers. It showed better dye effect in wool than silk. The chitosan pre-treatment and pre-mordanting lowered the K/S value of wool, which showed that chitosan pre-treatment does not improve dye uptake. However, different from the dyeing carried out by pre-mordanting without pre-treatment with chitosan, more diversified colors could be obtained by mordants. Therefore, for the dyeing natural protein fibers with marigold extract, post-mordanting does not require chitosan pre-treatment. However, pre-mordanting with chitosan pre-treatment could implement diverse colors. Considering its dyeing behaviors which are similar in both natural cellulose and protein fibers, african marigold extracts can be evaluated as a stable and highly practical dye.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.240-247
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• 2005

In this study, cotton fabric specimens were pre-mordanted using Sn, Al, Cu, Cr, and Fe, and subsequently dyed using cochineal, maintaining the pH of the dye bath constant using pH buffer solutions of 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8. In the cases of Al, Cr, and Sn mordanting, the dye-uptake was well accomplished in the acidic range of pH 4 and 5. However, the dye-uptake was not accomplished in the range over pH 6. In the cases of Cu and Fe mordanting, however, the pH value did not affect the dye-uptake and the dyeability in the alkaline range was not decreased remarkably. In the case of non-mordant, the dye-uptake was not accomplished at all, and the Cu and Fe mordanting gave rise to the best dyeability. In the cases of non-mordanting and Al, Cu mordanting, there was no change in the $\lambda_{max}$, and in the cases of Sn and Cr mordanting, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved toward the shorter wavelength. In the case of Fe mordanting only, the $\lambda_{max}$ moved gradually toward the longer wavelength, and due to the pH effect deep-dyeing effect was revealed.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.825-833
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• 2013

In this study, the dyeing properties of Phellodendron amurense on cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated to establish a scientific database of dyeing methods using natural dyes with the ultimate aim of facilitating the practical use of these dyes. The optimal thickener and dyeing concentrations depending on the thickener type were identified when dyeing with P. amurense, and the fabric color, color fastness, and antibiosis were examined for various thickeners, fabrics, and mordants. The results were as follows.: The optimal concentrations of thickeners when dyeing on cotton and silk fabrics were CMC 3% (w/w), Mayprogum 7% (w/w), and Indalka 9% (w/w). The optimal concentration of P. amurense was 25% (w/w), irrespective of the type of thickener. To maintain the hue unique to P. amurense, thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al was effective for cotton, while thickening with Mayprogum or Indalka and mordanting with Al or thickening with CMC and mordanting with gallnut was effective for silk. The dry-cleaning fastness and abrasion resistance of cotton fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at the 4-5 level. Gallnut was effective for washing fastness and perspiration fastness against color degradation, and FFC was effective for light fastness. The washing fastness, dry-cleaning fastness, abrasion resistance, and perspiration fastness of silk fabrics dyed with P. amurense were excellent at level 4, except for washing and perspiration fastness, and FFC was effective for the improvement of light fastness. Dyeing cotton and silk fabrics with P. amurense thus yielded antibiosis and excellent washing fastness.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.540-549
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• 2005

It was the purpose of this study to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment and mordanting on the air-permeability, fastness of the dyestuff to washing, fastness of the dyestuff to light, and antimicrobial effect of cotton and nylon fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were made on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, due to the dye-uptake of the dyestuff component of the Rhusjara ica, the air-permeability values decreased considerably. And due to the action of the mordanting agents, the air-permeability decreased also. The air-permeability decreased more conspicuously in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the chitosan components than in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the cotton fibers or nylon fibers. Nylon dyed fabric exhibited better wash fastness than the cotton dyed fabric. As the number of washing increased, the color of the cotton fabric specimens and nylon fabric specimens, dyed using Rhusjara ica, shifted toward yellowish. The light fastness values were in the range of grade 1${\~}$2, which were very inferior. The light fastness values did not improve according to the mordanting or to the chitosan treatment. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica, the growth rate of the bacteria promoted, on the contrary, compared to that of the control white fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권5호
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• pp.83-100
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• 2003

It has been known that the chitosan pre-treated fabrics can be dyed without the aid of mordanting process. It is due to the fact that chitosan treatment increases the dye uptake. However, the effect of chitosan on the dyeing mechanism has not been elucidated thus far. Following explanations have been presented regrading the action of the chitosan on the dyeing mechanisms: 1. Chitosan absorbs dyestuffs and facilitates dyeing since the chitosan itself has a good affinity toward dyestuffs. 2. Chitosan acts as a metallic mordant between the fiber molecule and dyestuff. 3. Fiber molecules and chitosan form a coordinate covalent bond. This study aims the quantitative investigation on the effect of the chitosan and the effect of sequence of the mordanting, pre-mordanting or post-mordanting, on the dyeing of the fabrics. Cotton fabrics and acylic fabrics were pre-treated with chitosan before dyeing with cochineal dyestuffs. Method 1: Fabrics were, firstly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; mordanted fabrics were, secondly, treated with chitosan; mordanted and chitosan-treated fabrics were, thirdly, dyed. Method 2: Fabrics were, firstly, treated with chitosan; chitosan-treated fabrics were, secondly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; these were dyed then. Method 2 gave distinguished specific color development with darker shade. Apart from this, chitosan-treated fabrics yielded darker shade compared to the pre-mordanted fabrics without chitosan-treatment.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.15-22
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• 1999

This study investigated the mordanting effect of natural mordants such as camellia ash, bean chaff ash and pyrolignite of iron(Iron(II) Acetate) on silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts. Experimental variables include the conditions of extraction and dyeing, and types of natural mordants. Inorganic ion contents In natural mordants were analysed by Induced Coupled Plasma Atomic Emission Spectrometer. In the ash Al, Fe, Si and Mn were in % unit, Cr and Ni were detected in ppm unit, and in the aqueous extracts of the ash all the metal ions were in ppm unit. On the other hand, fairly high content of Al(2.13% ) in camellia ash extract and Fe(7.91% ) in the aqueous extracts of pyrolignite iron were detected. The absorbance intensity of green tea extracts in UV-Visible spectrum increased with the temperature and time of extraction. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 272.5nm and 210.5nm. The US values of silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts were increased with temperature and time of dyeing. Surface color of silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was 9.1YR, but it was changed from 7.9YR to 7.5YR by camellia ash extract and 7.4YR to 6.4YR by bean chaff ash extract with increase in mordant concentration. Pre-mordanted and post-mordanted fabrics with pyrolignite of iron were changed from 1.4YR to 1.1R and 7.2P to 4.2P, respectively.