• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.92-101
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• 2007

This research was carried out following the preceding research on natural cellulose fabrics dyed with extract of fresh african marigold petals. Dyeability on fabrics was tested by dyeing with wool and silk which are natural protein fibers. Dyeing tests were carried out under different pH of the dye solution and mordants, examining the changes in the surface color, K/S value, and maximum absorption wavelength. The probability of improving dyeability was investigated by pre-mordanting with pre-treated chitosan. Wool fabrics showed color tone of medium or less saturation and brightness, in dark yellow color series. An orange color of high saturation was only obtained by tin mordanting. Wool showed higher K/S value than cellulose fibers. In summary, marigold dye has more affinity for protein fibers. It showed better dye effect in wool than silk. The chitosan pre-treatment and pre-mordanting lowered the K/S value of wool, which showed that chitosan pre-treatment does not improve dye uptake. However, different from the dyeing carried out by pre-mordanting without pre-treatment with chitosan, more diversified colors could be obtained by mordants. Therefore, for the dyeing natural protein fibers with marigold extract, post-mordanting does not require chitosan pre-treatment. However, pre-mordanting with chitosan pre-treatment could implement diverse colors. Considering its dyeing behaviors which are similar in both natural cellulose and protein fibers, african marigold extracts can be evaluated as a stable and highly practical dye.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.4 s.57
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• pp.540-549
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• 2005

It was the purpose of this study to investigate the effect of chitosan treatment and mordanting on the air-permeability, fastness of the dyestuff to washing, fastness of the dyestuff to light, and antimicrobial effect of cotton and nylon fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica. In the dyeing experiment, examinations were made on the difference between the chitosan treated fabrics and chitosan untreated fabrics, and on the difference according to the type of mordanting agents and the mordanting methods. Dyeing was carried out for the chitosan treated and untreated fabrics under the conditions of non-mordanting and Al, Sn, Fe mordanting. As a result, due to the dye-uptake of the dyestuff component of the Rhusjara ica, the air-permeability values decreased considerably. And due to the action of the mordanting agents, the air-permeability decreased also. The air-permeability decreased more conspicuously in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the chitosan components than in the case of the dyestuffs uptake to the cotton fibers or nylon fibers. Nylon dyed fabric exhibited better wash fastness than the cotton dyed fabric. As the number of washing increased, the color of the cotton fabric specimens and nylon fabric specimens, dyed using Rhusjara ica, shifted toward yellowish. The light fastness values were in the range of grade 1${\~}$2, which were very inferior. The light fastness values did not improve according to the mordanting or to the chitosan treatment. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics dyed using Rhusjara ica, the growth rate of the bacteria promoted, on the contrary, compared to that of the control white fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.83-100
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• 2003

It has been known that the chitosan pre-treated fabrics can be dyed without the aid of mordanting process. It is due to the fact that chitosan treatment increases the dye uptake. However, the effect of chitosan on the dyeing mechanism has not been elucidated thus far. Following explanations have been presented regrading the action of the chitosan on the dyeing mechanisms: 1. Chitosan absorbs dyestuffs and facilitates dyeing since the chitosan itself has a good affinity toward dyestuffs. 2. Chitosan acts as a metallic mordant between the fiber molecule and dyestuff. 3. Fiber molecules and chitosan form a coordinate covalent bond. This study aims the quantitative investigation on the effect of the chitosan and the effect of sequence of the mordanting, pre-mordanting or post-mordanting, on the dyeing of the fabrics. Cotton fabrics and acylic fabrics were pre-treated with chitosan before dyeing with cochineal dyestuffs. Method 1: Fabrics were, firstly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; mordanted fabrics were, secondly, treated with chitosan; mordanted and chitosan-treated fabrics were, thirdly, dyed. Method 2: Fabrics were, firstly, treated with chitosan; chitosan-treated fabrics were, secondly, mordanted with Al, Sn, Cu, and Fe; these were dyed then. Method 2 gave distinguished specific color development with darker shade. Apart from this, chitosan-treated fabrics yielded darker shade compared to the pre-mordanted fabrics without chitosan-treatment.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.15-22
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• 1999

This study investigated the mordanting effect of natural mordants such as camellia ash, bean chaff ash and pyrolignite of iron(Iron(II) Acetate) on silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts. Experimental variables include the conditions of extraction and dyeing, and types of natural mordants. Inorganic ion contents In natural mordants were analysed by Induced Coupled Plasma Atomic Emission Spectrometer. In the ash Al, Fe, Si and Mn were in % unit, Cr and Ni were detected in ppm unit, and in the aqueous extracts of the ash all the metal ions were in ppm unit. On the other hand, fairly high content of Al(2.13% ) in camellia ash extract and Fe(7.91% ) in the aqueous extracts of pyrolignite iron were detected. The absorbance intensity of green tea extracts in UV-Visible spectrum increased with the temperature and time of extraction. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 272.5nm and 210.5nm. The US values of silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts were increased with temperature and time of dyeing. Surface color of silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was 9.1YR, but it was changed from 7.9YR to 7.5YR by camellia ash extract and 7.4YR to 6.4YR by bean chaff ash extract with increase in mordant concentration. Pre-mordanted and post-mordanted fabrics with pyrolignite of iron were changed from 1.4YR to 1.1R and 7.2P to 4.2P, respectively.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.1-9
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• 1994

In order to study the effect of mordanting on silk fabrics treated with tannin, those fabrics were treated with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe, Sn by pre and post mordanting. It was studied about color change, weighting effect, dgree of photodegradation by pre and post mordanting. The results are as fallows ; 1. On the addition of mordants into mimosa and tannic acid solution, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the former was slightly blue-shifted, on the other hand, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the latter was obviously Red-shifted. 2. In case of Cu, Cr, Pre mordanting, weighting effect were appeared. Weighting effect of silk fabrics treated with Tannic acid increased higher than mimosa by mordanting. 3. In color change, Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid generally changed to red direction and fabrics treated with tannic acid changed to yellow direction by pre and post mordanting. 4. In the photodegradation, the degree of photodegradation on mordanted fabrics increased. Its degree was slack in Cu, Cr, Post mordanting. On the other hand, Al, Fe, Sn were greate. Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid got inhibiting effect on photodegradation.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.23-29
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to improve the dyeability and the color fastness to light of cotton fabric dyed with extraction of cinnamon cassia. Cotton fabric was pretreated with chito-colla to enhance the dyeability, and K/S values were compared chito-colla pretreated fabric and untreated fabric. In addition, to improve of color fastness to light of dyed fabric, it was used FFC compound as mordant. Also, it was measured SOD-liked activity of FFC compound and lifht fastness of dyed fabrics. The results are as follow; K/S value of cotton fabric pretreated with chito-colla(5%) was much more increased than untreated fabric. SOD-liked activity of FFC compound was observed over 70%. Light fastness of cotton fabric treated with FFC compound was 3～4 grades.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.431-440
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to investigate the feasibility of applying the chitosan for a natural mordant. The chitosan, a natural chelate macromolecule, is acquired from the crustacean. Investigation was focused on the change of the dyeability according to the chitosan treatment based on the Caesalpinia sappan and the color change of the dyed fabric according to the application of heavy metal mordant. The change of air permeability of the fabric with the dyeing condition was also investigated systematically. The effect of dyeing with/without mordant on the air permeability of the fabric after the chitosan treatment. It seems that the increase in the dye-uptake is attributable to the fact that chitosan forms a complex with the Caesalpinia sappan and Al during mordant dyeing of cotton fabric. For nylon fabric, the darkest color was achieved on the occasion of non-mordant dyeing of the fabric. The mordant treatment or chitosan treatment, however, reduced the dyeability. While the dyed nylon fabric could maintain the same air permeability as the grey nylon fabric, the cotton fabric lowered the air permeability after dyeing.

• Korean Journal of Rural Living Science
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-6
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• 1999

Dyeing and discoloration effects on the fabrics of cotton, silk and rayon with unriped persimmon juice were investigated. Color of dyed fabrics treated with persimmon juice only, added 3% tartaric acid or 3% aluminium sulfate was not different each other. Dyeing assistants such as tartaric acid or aluminium sulfate were effective on the prevention from discoloration of dyed fabrics and ultraviolet rays. Discoloration were supposed to derive from tannin in unriped persimmon, ultraviolet rays, oxygen, enzyme and so on, ultraviolet rays at wavelength of 253.7nm was the most active the chromatophores and discoloration. The fabrics could be dyed, when unriped persimmon juice was store at low temperature or freezing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2001

To improve the dyeability and colorfastness of cotton and silk fabric dyed with natural dye of safflower, cotton and silk fabrics were pre-treated with different mordants such as halliic-acid, alum, brine and tannic-acid. Also, to investigate the effect of finishing treatment of fabrics on dyeability, cotton was treated with chitosan and mercerized before dyeing. L, a, b, ΔE and colorfastness(light, Laundry, sweat) of each samples were measured and compared. Mordant treatment didn't improved significantly dyeability and colorfastness on cotton and silk. But, on cotton mercerization and chitosan treatment improved dyeability and colorfastness. To compare the efficiency of extracted dye and Powered dye, extracted red dye of safflower prepared as powder. Cotton and silk were dyed with dyeing solution which made with powdered dye according to different concentration. Efficiency of powdered dye was found out lower than extracted dye solution.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.283-288
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• 2003

Large quantity of metal mordant in natural dyeing has been used. For environmental reason, there is a need to reduce the amount of metal mordant and suggest the optimum amount of metal mordant in dyeing process. In this study, the relationship between mordant concentration and dyeing property was investigated. Various metal mordant concentrations of AI, Cu, Fe, Sn, were studied (from 1 to 5%). After treatment of mordant on cotton fabric, the concentration of metal ion in used mordant solution was quantified. There was no significant difference of the tone of color in mordant concentration from 1% to 5%, Therefore, there is no need to increase mordant concentration over 1%. chitosan treated cotton fabric showed a significant increase in dyeing affinity compared to untreated cotton fabric (the value of ${\Delta}E$ was 20). chitosan increased dye affinity significantly in the presence of mordant. It can be suggested that chitosan itself can replace metal mordants in the future.