• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제17권3호
• /
• pp.396-406
• /
• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권8호
• /
• pp.114-126
• /
• 2011

Many varieties in folk costumes have inspired fashion designs for a long time. Each country, with a unique style of its own reflects their own traditions, beliefs, customs and morals into their traditional costumes. The traditional methods of creating different ways of drapery methods by using only a rectangular piece of cloth have been passed down from generation to generation and it is still used today. This way of styling has been developed mainly in the Middle East, Asia and Africa and the modifiable ways of creating drapery wearing methods are as follows. The first modifiable styling method is changing the purpose of wearing costumes according to the needs and the wants of the person who wears it. The second method is exposing the knots on the surface of the garments and by doing this, there was no visible difference on the aesthetic formation and it did not alternate for a long time. This means that simple knot shapes have been used to tie edges of rectangular fabrics. The third method is a wrapping type of modifiable styling method, which has been used most commonly in folk costumes because there are lots of ways to wrap a rectangular cloth around the body. The fourth way is the fixed type of modifiable styling method and this method can only be noticed only in the Moroccan Izar using fibulas and belts to alter the shape of the Izar. The fifth method is the composite type of modifiable styling method. This method starts by cutting out cylindrical shapes of fabrics and then wraps or twists it to fit the body. The most significant character of modifiable styling methods in folk costumes is to use rectangular cloths, which varies only in ratio of length, width and sizes. Therefore, this study suggests that rectangular cloths can create enormous amounts of fashion styling which can be easily adapted and created in everyday fashion life.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권1호
• /
• pp.130-146
• /
• 2007

Thought of postmodernism accepted between variety and differentiation is characterized by variability and indeterminacy aimed at continuous change. For that reason, modern fashion has been grouping a lot of manners for creation of the various different form and structure. This paper studies the characteristics of the folding system, which expands efficiency of the spatial utility and shows various forms. Folding system expressed in modern fashion could be divided the pleats, which were made of the folding, and the dreaperies, which were made of bending. This selects the pleats as a enlarged concept of the folding system that contains between the former and the letter. Pleats did not mean two dimensional folding surfaces, but three dimensional spatial structures. For understanding of the folding system as a three dimensional spatial structure, this is utilized with the thought of the 'le pli' of G.W.Leifniz and G.Deleuze. The pleats expressed in modern fashion can subdivided into 4 sets; crinkle system, origami system, fractal pleats by folding system, and drapery system. And Formative characteristics of the pleats are analyzed with enlargement, fluidity, deconstruction, irregularity.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제17권4호
• /
• pp.117-129
• /
• 2015

This study is to find out the changes and features of male consumers' life style and purchase tendency according to the change of Korean fashion market, and based on which to suggest the design for the 20s men as well as a proper distribution channel for it. Documentary research and investigation were done together for the study. By reviewing documents focused on previous studies and declaring the change of men's fashion shopping tendencies and the following changes and features of their fashion sense and styles a conceptional frame for a design suggestion was presented. Ways to investigate were men's wear collection research, Q-technique. First of all, they tend to boldly reduce unnecessary purchases and do not hesitate to focus on the wanted item, expanding the trend of 'value purchase.' Secondly, men's wear use various design elements with feminine images, while the materials, colors and design expressive techniques that have been exclusively used for women's wear, began to be applied to men's one, turning them into gentle styles with womanhood is stressed. Thirdly, Korean distribution channel is rapidly diversified from departments to new-concept ones such as multi-brand stores. Especially, displaying and selling various optional products, multi-brand stores lead such diversification of fashion distribution channel. Fourthly, features of the drapery types favored by the 20s men are that they like no-chromed dark or blackish colors with fixed structure and partially-applied drapery on the clothes. Fifthly, it turns out that men in their 20s set a premium on design and price while they buy clothes. In addition to that, they buy clothes mainly during discount period and displayed much bigger satisfaction for the purchase on discounted price that those on normal price.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제22권4호
• /
• pp.115-125
• /
• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제33권6호
• /
• pp.958-967
• /
• 2009

세계의 여러 종교들은 각기 다른 믿음체계를 바탕으로 다양한 체계를 갖추고 있으며, 종교적 의미의 표현인 종교복식 역시 종교별로 각기 다른 형식을 띠고 있다. 그러나 본 연구는 인류의 다양한 종교복식에서 나타나는 보편적 특징을 연구하는데 목적이 있다. 종교는 그 범위가 불분명하고, 연구의 한계성이 분명하므로 본 연구에서는 세계 4대 고등종교를 대상으로 연구한다. 본 연구의 목적은 첫째, 세계 고등종교에 대한 고찰, 둘째, 종교복식에 나타난 조형적 특징 연구, 셋째, 종교복식에 나타난 보편적 조형미와 미적가치에 대한 연구 및 논의 등이다. 세계 4대 고등종교의 종교복식에는 조형적 보편성이 존재한다. 첫째, 구성과 형태, 착장법 등에서의 비구조적 특징, 둘째, 인체를 감싸는 풍성한 실루엣, 셋째, 장식의 절제와 억제, 넷째, 무채색계열의 선호와 모노톤의 특징 등이다. 종교복식의 보편적 미적가치로는 종교적 절대성과 정숙성 등으로 인한 '감춤의 미', 장식이나 문양 등의 억제와 단조로운 색상 등에서 '절제의 미' 그리고 드레이퍼리와 비구조적인 특징에서는 '자연의 미'가 나타난다. 인간은 종교를 통해 본질적인 것을 추구하고 인체를 은폐함으로써 신성한 것과 접촉하려고 한다. 종교복식은 초자연적 타계와 믿음에 대한 표현이며, 의식의례 행위이다. 각 종교의 종교복식은 물론 종교의 영향을 받은 복식에도 이러한 감춤과 절제의 형식들이 고스란히 반영되어 있다.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
• /
• 제18권1호
• /
• pp.359-369
• /
• 2018

중세 기독교 회화에서 그리스도를 표현하는데 있어 가장 중요시한 문제는 그의 신성과 인성을 동시에 나타내는 것이다. '그리스도의 변형' 도상은 다른 어떤 주제보다 그리스도의 두 가지 속성을 뚜렷하게 보여준다. 본 연구의 목적은 예형론과 기독론을 통해 중세 그리스도 변형 도상의 신체와 복식에 나타난 그리스도의 신성과 인성의 표현을 고찰하는 것이다. 이를 위해 그리스도의 두상표현과 자세, 복식의 종류와 색상, 형태, 재질 및 장식, 조형성을 살펴보았다. 연구 결과 신성은 푸르거나 어두운 색조의 얼굴과 삼위일체와 강복을 상징하는 오른손, 오란스, 공중부양 자세로 나타났고, 인성은 홍조가 도는 따뜻한 색감의 피부를 지닌 장년 남성의 얼굴과 콘트라포스토 자세로 나타났다. 복식에서 흰색, 푸른색, 보라색, 금색 및 탈색효과는 신성을, 붉은색 및 고채도의 색상대비는 인성을 강조하기 위한 표현으로 분석되었다. 또한 비구조적인 주름과 직선적인 드레이퍼리, 목둘레의 장식선 등은 신성의 특징으로, 구조적이며 사실적인 주름의 묘사는 인성의 표현으로 나타났다. 중세 그리스도 도상은 인간의 모습으로 이 땅에 내려온 신의 형상을 구현하기 위해 철저히 계획된 의도의 산물이다. 이는 화가 자신의 신앙의 고백이자 중세 신학의 도그마를 전달하는 수단으로서 중요한 의의가 있으며 추상적인 개념을 시각화하여 전달하는 이미지의 중요성을 시사한다.