• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 1998.09a
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• pp.39-39
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• 1998

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.9
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• pp.31-39
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• 2006

This study was conducted to reproduce the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Fourteen two-piece sleeve patterns of the ladies 'jacket of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The length and width proportion of the upper-sleeve and under-sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's were similar to the two-piece sleeve pattern of jacket which we see now. The elbow line of the two-piece sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was lower than the two-piece sleeve of jacket of today. The cap of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was gathered and this gave volume to the upper part of sleeve but the lower part of the sleeve was tight. The study pattern of two-piece sleeve pattern which had the characteristics of the sleeve pattern of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the sleeve of the ladies' jacket of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.700-711
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficult in draft of patternmaking, fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve under the controled situation. Five types of two piece sleeve that were originated from five countries including domestic companies which called A type, B type, C type, D type, and E type were used. In order to conduct the experiment fur the study, 10 persons who were well organized about the patternmaking drafted 5 types of sleeve and were tested for the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficulty in draft of patternmaking. Another panel were tested for fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve in jacket under the controled situation. The results of this study were as followed 1. C type was needed height of armhole in bodice and D type was needed height of armhole and width of armhole in bodice as well as all parts of sleeve measurements to draft patternmaking. 2. There were significant differences of the items such as cap height, ease amount around sleeve cap, width of sleeve, forwardness of sleeve and the length of elbow line of the five types patternmaking drafted. 3. There were significant differences of difficulty in draft of the five types of patternmaking. C type and E type were easier to draft. 4. There were significant differences in fitness of the sleeves in jacket. C type and E type were more fit. 5. There were significant differences in aesthetic view. A type, B type and E type were more aesthetic under the situation. 6. There were significant differences in fashionableness in jackets. A type and E type were more fashionable under the situation.