• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.73-87
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to find the Dart Manipulation with good fitting and evaluate the aesthetics of Dart Manipulation that is used in the designs of the original tops for women in their 30's. Subsequently, it suggests dart manipulation with good body fitting and physical fitness when designing original tops. The findings of this study are as follows. First, in the fitting of Dart Manipulation for different body types, cross direction Dart Manipulation received good marks in the Square Body Type while mixed direction and diagonal direction Dart Manipulation received high evaluation in the Standard Body Type. Also, for the Reverse Triangle Body Type, mixed direction Dart Manipulation received high marks. Since there are only small changes in fitting for the Square Body Type, the position of Dart Manipulation should be determined in regards to the aesthetic view as well as the fitting of the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type. Second, in the fitness of Dart Manipulation for different body types, an approach from the aesthetic view should be considered for Square Body Types because of the differences in fitness according to the position of dart manipulation. The fitness should be considered when positioning Dart Manipulation for the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type because of these differences. Third, for the greater variance of drop for these different body types, the change of the amount of dart received lower evaluation in fitting since the amount of dart increased when the dart was located higher than B.P. The number of dart should likely increase when gathering or tucking is necessary when there is an excessive amount of dart in Dart Manipulation for the different body types. Fourth, as for the changes of wrinkles in accordance with the body type, wrinkles were likely to be formed at the breast or neck area when there was a larger difference in drop. To prevent such problems, one more dart should be made on the wrinkle. In conclusion, the study suggests designing the original top with a better look and comfort by setting the balance between aesthetics and fitting in the design stage.