• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.179-196
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• 2013

This research is about the mechanical properties of knit pullover of Shaping and WholeGarment according to structured patterns and form of the armhole. For the study 12 samples are prepared under different conditions and through comparative analysis of each sample's armhole around armpit in basic properties, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation after repeated extensions, the conclusion is as follows. As a result of comparing basic properties of structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, in all structured patterns Shaping samples weighed more. According to the comparative analysis of tensile strength & elongation of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, Machi on both sides of WholeGarment samples showed the highest strength. By comparing outcome of residual elongation by structured pattern of Shaping and WholeGarment samples, both types were observed to have the residual elongation increase in the order of Plain

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.52-68
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• 2012

To achieve the aim of this study, 9 different types of samples were made to examine mechanical property according to structured pattern and type of Machi of pullover armhole of WholeGarment(seamless knitwear). With respect to samples, from which comparisons are made and anaylzed among basic characteristics of material, tensile strength & elongation and residual elongation due to repeated extension of armhole connecting part, the following conclusions could be obtained. It's revealed that the tensile strength of Machi part as being armhole connecting part of samples is more affected by Machi type than pattern structure. Of Machi types, it showed stronger tensile strength in the order of Normal(Normal Machi)< Machi_B(unilateral Machi)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.15-27
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to find texture which suitable for the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age. The study was carried out 2 parts. The first part was to choose the pattern fitted in the body shape of women in the middle age, and the second part was wearing test with 3 different textured acryl knitted jacket(half milano, milano, jacquard). The usable data of the test were coded for further statistical analysis including descriptive statistics (frequency and one way-ANOVA test, Student-Newman-Keuls Multiple Range Test) by using SPSSWIN 12.0. The results were as follows: It was found that first evaluation for the appearance test on fitness, pattern B(Brand: Morado) were better than the rest of them(pattern A: Trieste, pattern C: Escalier). It was found that second evaluation for the test, jacket with jacquard were better than the rest of them. Acryl knitted Jacket of women in the middle age should made of jacquard. Therefore it should be designed as possible as considering the physical characteristics of knitted materials. It was found that third evaluation for the test, it was opposite results that a general knitted fabric pattern was made smaller than a woven jacket. So, it was necessary that the acryl knitted jacket of women in the middle age follow a similar site tolerance such as a woven jacket. This result was due to a radical change of a middle age women's body shape.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.79-98
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.47-59
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• 2005

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the $2{\times}1$ rib stitch and $2{\times}2$ rib stitch, and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, $2/48's{\times}2$, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, 15gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results: From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the 20gf weight sample clothes of $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs were in high estimate. For the bust, B/4~ -4.6cm knit pattern was made of $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, B/4~5.3cm of $2{\times}2$ rib stitch. In conclusion, because $2{\times}1$ and $2{\times}2$ rib stitchs has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than $0{\times}0$ ad $1{\times}1$ rib stitchs, high stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.769-780
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• 2004

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the direction of the knit stitch course by the difference in the way of weaving rib stitch, the most elastic stitch of all the knit stitches and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, 2/48's 2, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, l5gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results. From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the l5gf weight sample clothes of 0×0 and 1×1 rib stitches looking similar to plain stitch. For the bust, B/4-1.0㎝ knit pattern was made of 0×0 stitch, B/4-1.2㎝ of 1×1 rib stitch. In conclusion, because rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches, low stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• Korean Journal of Social Welfare Studies
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.125-157
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• 2018

In the reality that the seriousness and concern about the youth problem is increasing, this study focuses on the vision plan project supporting the NEET youth in the social welfare field. Therefore, this study analyzed how the social workers recognized the NEET problem before participating in the project, what difficulties they experienced in the process of the project, and how they coped with these difficulties. The results of the study are as follows. Social workers were saddened by the seriousness of the youth problem before their participation, but they recognized that there was no way to solve it and many social workers were not fully aware of the youth or NEET issues. In this context, in the course of running a project with NEET youth, social workers experienced difficulties due to the nature of the NEET youth, difficulty in forming a relationship with NEET youth, and difficulties for young people not to spend time in the program. And social workers also faced difficulties due to the lack of know-how in the project, difficulties in operating the center alone, and difficulty in achieving employment goals. In the process of coping with these difficulties, social workers have actively sought, persuaded and supported the NEET youths to participate in the project, adapted the time, place and method to the youth, and removed the stigmatization element in the project. They also worked closely with local residents, local institutions and municipalities, formed networks, and changed the viewpoint of providing work experience rather than getting young people, but seeing long-term outcome. As a result, social workers have experienced not only individual change but also social welfare organization, field, community and local institutional change. Based on these results, this study suggested that the social welfare practice field should provide various activities in the process of supporting the youth gap year policy. In addition, this study suggests that the social workers play a role in connecting various actors rather than suppliers when working with young people, and that the social welfare field should expand the scope of project to include youth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.157-165
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2012.03a
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• pp.33-33
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• 2012

소비자의 기호에 따른 섬유 제품은 고급스러운 감촉 및 착용감, 신축성 등 기능성 측면이 증대되어 의류 및 인테리어용에 니트 제품 및 세데니아 원단의 수요가 급증하고 있다. 그러나 니트 제품은 조직이 복잡하며 장력에 의해 형태 변화가 심해 제품 개발에 대한 문제점이 발생하고 세데니아 원단 또한 장력에 매우 민감하다. 특히 정련/염색시 고부가가치 제품의 품질문제에 영향을 미치며, 제품손상과 불량률이 문제점으로 대두되고 있다. 나노버블은 기포의 크기가 작고 에너지를 보유하고 있기 때문에 생지에 부착되어있는 호제들과 쉽게 결합할 뿐 아니라 생지로부터 쉽게 분리시킴으로써 정련성을 높이는 역할을 수행하게 된다. 정련제와 결합된 나노버블은 정련시 물에 잘 용해되지 않는 스판오일, 방사유제등을 잘 흡착하여 분리시키기 때문에 정련효과를 병행해서 얻을 수 있다. 즉 정련효과가 현저하게 향상됨으로써 정련제의 양도 기존의 정련 방식에 비하여 적게 사용하여도 동일한 정련효과를 얻을 수 있었다. 발생기포의 양을 조절할 수 있어 소포제 없이도 기포발생에 의한 현장사고를 방지함으로써 고품질의 정련제품을 얻을 수 있었다. 또한 기존 정련기술에 비해 정련시간 단축으로 인한 에너지 절감효과 및 이산화탄소 배출량 감소, 나노사이즈의 버블의 높은 분산력으로 과량의 수세공정 생략 등 친환경적 정련/염색 공정이 가능하다.