• 복식문화연구
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.700-713
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics and symbolism of peony, the traditional noble flower, create knit fashion designer applying the aesthetic beauty of flower, and suggest the various possibility of developing knit fashion design. As for the study method, the study conducted review on literature and previous studies to investigate on history, characteristics, symbolism of peony, and examined various expressive technique through previous studies about fashion design using flower images. To express characteristics of peony in three dimensions, the study investigated and reflected on crochet expressive technique to design 4 women's knitwear. The results are as below. First, as shape of peony is big, voluminous, fancy and noble, it symbolizes wealth and beauty. Including red which is the generally known color of peony, there are yellow, white, pink, purple, green, blue, black, gray, white purple, white color. This study reflected characteristics and symbolism of peony and created knit fashion design applying abundant aesthetic characteristics of flower. Second, crochet method is advantageous as it is operable with thread and hooked crochet hook without time and space restriction, it can create unique fashion design. Crochet knitting on hand knit can diversity changes to express relief textures, and as there is no limit in size, it can be applied to small props to big pieces. This study suggested the various possibility of knit fashion design development and various expressive possibility on modern fashion design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.157-165
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to investigate the actual conditions of the manufacturer's design processes. Questionnaires were sent out, and 57 interviews were used as research methods including designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, followed by a frequency analysis using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: knitted fabric goods were the top choices in casual wear. Brand image depended on 'elegance', 'modernity', and 'romanticism', among other lifestyle pursuits. The distribution ratio of the 'basic' and the 'trendy' knit was at 3:7 or 7:3, while the ratio of 6:4 or 4:6 was more common. Knit structure was proven to be the most important factor in the changes in designs. Style and yam ranked second and third, respectively. In addition, details (embroidery and beading), color, pattern, and processing were among the other factors, in order of importance. Based on the difficulty in designing and manufacturing knitted fabric goods, 'manufacturing cost:' 'lack of a manufacturing facility for small production,' and 'limited delivery time' were among the reasons cited in the questionnaire. These results appeared to have been caused by small-scale manufacturers or small-scale manufacturing facilities that made small volume production difficult. The results of the interviews on knitted fabrics that were most frequently used and with the highest sales volumes showed that plain, lace, links & links, miss, and 1:1 rib were ranked accordingly for S/S use, while jacquard, cable, 1:1 rib, links & links, milano, plain, and half cardigan were ranked accordingly for F/W use.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.277-289
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to develop naturalistic knit designs inspired by Yann Arthus-Bertrand's works. For this purpose, we examined the present style of naturalism and history of naturalism though literature research, and then developed designs. The results are as follows: First, as scientific realism originated from a philosophical concept was adopted in literature and other genres, its meanings have been altered and comprehensively expanded according to the genres of which the term is being used. Naturalism of the modern times carries strong message of ecology and environmental protection. Second, the modern naturalism in fashion is manifested in expressing the image of nature and plasticity, instead of a mere use of the natural materials. As the aspects of ecology become more significant, elements of retro, recycle, or grunge are additionally integrated in fashion. Third, Naturalism expressed in knitwear is similar with that of other clothing in terms of color and textile, however, silhouette in knitwear is unique in its general naturalness and flowing effects. Embroidery, knitting of Jacquard and Intarsia, or crochet is used to express forms of objects from nature. Visual effects regardless of the contents of yarn, and pattern effects after knitting by using yarn, have influences on the material. Forth, the eight knit designs in expressing naturalism presented in this study took a motif from the works of Yann Arthus-Bertrand. They were created by rendering rhythm of the landscape with emphasis on brown color. Contour and surface touch were expressed through yarn and the structure of knit.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.99-116
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• 2003

Knit is classified into two such as basic texture and applied one according to knitting principle, and the basic texture of weft knitting consists of single knit. rib knit, purl knit and interlock knit. The basic texture of warp knitting consists of double knit texture, double code knit texture and double vandyke knit texture. Fourteen costumes were produced with eighteen (18) different types and twenty four (24) raw materials, and we were trying to show a wide range of costumes produced with knitting by making two different brands at random and making different designs depending on four seasons. Knitting technique is very important element in that it allows special surface effectiveness and decides the characteristic of knitting materials. Knit designer plays very important roles such as selection of raw thread, deciding knitting technique and type of knitting machine in designing the knit. Therefore, the knit designer requires the ability to utilize the function of knitting machine to the maximum, the effort to acquire the variety of knitting technique, develop the new knitting technique and for the improvement of knitting design.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.484-498
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to explore the applicability of QFD to product development of clothes by empirically applying it to development of a specific clothes, middle and elderly women’s formal knitwear. The voices of customers(VOCs) for formal knitwear was collected through in-depth interviews with 25 customers, shop masters, and designers. Also, questionnaires of which respondents were 230 customers were used to rank the importance of the items of VOC. A QFD team of 10 knitwear experts implemented the task of translating VOCs into design attributes and measuring the values of the relationships between VOCs and design attributes. Importance ranking of the items of design attributes was obtained based on Lyman's method. The results of this study were as follows. First, the customer requirements for formal knitwear were classified into five dimensions, that is, symbolism, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and maintenance. Second, the descending order of the necessity of improving the quality was maintenance, aesthetic, fitness, usefulness, and symbolism. Third, three-staged design attributes were obtained as a result of translating of VOCs into design attributes. Lastly, the descending order of the importance of design attributes was "sorts of yarn", "sorts of color jacquard", "color", "tone", "ease", etc.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.11-24
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• 2010

There has recently been increasing male college students' interest in and expenditure on fashion apparel. Specifically, the younger generation has a tendency to take an interest in knitwear due to its potential benefits such as elasticity and flexibility. The purpose of this research is to identify male college student's knowledge and buying behavior of knitwear and to provide the related information to academicians and industrial personnel. The subjects of this research were male college students in their twenties who live in Seoul and Gyounggi areas. 450 questionnaires were randomly distributed to the 20s male students from April 20, to May 4, 2009, and 409 questionnaires were correctly received. The results are as follows: First, Male college students' interest in knitwear is not above the average. Second, they focus more on a practical value of knitwear than on an aesthetic value of knitwear. Third, when purchasing knitwear, male college students first consider design, followed by color, pattern and quality. Forth, male college students want to be shown as a neat image when they wear knitwear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1812-1823
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• 2010

The modifiable design of clothes is significant in that a single garment can be presented in various ways and can be modified by user adjustments as well different kinds of figurative beauty can be expressed through the garment. This study departmentalized the case of knitwear in the modifiable design of clothes to propose a possibility of a variable knit fashion that makes the most of the knit characteristics. This study investigated precedent research, arranged general terms, created fundamental notions, found the background of the advent, and located specific characters in the modifiable design as well as arranged a concept, type, structure, and traits for the knit. The following results were obtained through this study. First, the modifiable design of the clothes can express the change of the silhouette and the change of the item itself or a change in the item according to the change in the mode of wearing, manipulation, and technology. Second, the results show that modifiable knit designs by open & close are mostly used according to manipulation and have no existence in this study according to the technology. Third, there was a noticeable appearance of a modifiable knit design from 2002 to 2004. However, it was increased again in 2009 after a steady decrease in 2005 and 2008. Finally, it can create effects in several dresses in the visual aspect and functional aspect.

• 복식
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• 제60권10호
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• pp.88-99
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to express visual and functional diversity through modifiable design, and to suggest a methodological model. With this view, this study was aimed to departmentalize the case of knitwear in modifiable design of clothes and propose the possibility of variable knit fashion through make the most of knit's characteristics. Four wearable physical clothes using the most of flexible knits' characteristics were made for this study based on the modifiable design on the expressive tendency and analysis of plasticity. The following results were obtained. First, as modifiable knit design can create effects of several dresses in visual aspect and functional aspect, so it has practicality and functionality. Because modifiable clothes required wearer's participation, this have amusement that give enjoyment and freshness to wearer. Second, in mode of wearing, flexibility of knit is suitable character to open & close and change of wearing position. In manipulation, a prearranged plan for line of clothes and good choice of subsidiary materials are important. Third, the characteristics of knits allow using and mixing with different pattern and materials on the two sides of the same cloths except for the some of the parts. Moreover, there is no unraveled thread on the part of knits margin against woven, so it has the broad applicable range for the changeable design. Finally, the form and function, a prearranged plan for modifiable design of clothes have all contributed in creating new structure and patterns in design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.91-103
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• 2008

Because of comfortable texture and easy treatment, more and more knit products has been required for leisure such as sports, traveling, hobbies, and various social activities. Therefore, the demand of knit is gradually increasing in the clothing industry. There are, however, several issues, which require solutions, and we must develop higher value-added products, which differentiate from those of developing countries allowing us to compete and win in the world market. The patterns on porcelain of underglaze iron, which had been popular from late-l5th century to mid-16th century, are diverse, unique, and traditional--so valuable patterns of our own. The computer hitting machine enables the designer to conceive new designs and produce samples of fabrics within a few minutes, which allows us to save time for mass production. Therefore, it is an essential tool for the knitting industry. After collecting, analyzing, and choosing various patterns on porcelains of underglaze iron, This study reflects the actual experience of hitting the fabrics with the patterns through the computer knitting machine which is also used to produce patterns after designing the new patterns through Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop, which has several merits. This article compares and analyzes them for production, which uses the patterns that has been designed from the patterns on porcelains of underglaze iron.