• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.127-138
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• 2002

The recent fashion trend of knit wear is now changing to the various fibrous color combination which emphasizes the plain texture. It supports the human body curvature which is influenced by the slim style of woven wear. In this research work, the general characteristics and knit wear fashion trend are studied. The metallic fiber and fancy yarn are used widely as fiber materials for knit in nowadays. However, the light and functional materials are preferred. The general characteristics of knit which gives the feeling of light and warm are still prevailing using pure wool, kid mohair, and mixed wool with polyester. In order to provide the soft touch feeling, smoothness of fine fiber, and feeling of sponge, several kinds of finishing techniques such as bulky, felting, bonding, and quilting process are usually adopted. The knit wear fashion trend is mainly consisted of the basic design items, and it gives the feeling of luxurious and elegance. The more youthful feeling is adapted for the general style of knit wear of the certain target age. The woven wear trend such as season color, line and pattern are applied in knit wear trend in recent days.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.57-71
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• 2021

The purpose of the study is to derive an appropriate knitting method that can increase the appearance, wearability, and functionality through empirical research on the sleeve height knitting ratio of seamless knit wear. The study was conducted by producing seven types of experiment clothes according to knitting ratio to examine the characteristics according to the body armhole and sleeve height ratio. Specifically, after fit evaluatins, variance analysis (ANOVA) was performed to analyze the results of the evaluation, and the evaluated contents were converted into data. Among them, the items with significant results were intensively studied using the Duncan-test. The result showed that the height and the width of the sleeves vary depending on the knitting ratio. Test sweater A was the highest at 16cm, followed by test sweater B, test sweater C, test sweater D, test sweater E, test sweater F, and test sweater G at 4cm. The 1:1 ratio of test sweater A, was the highest, which is knitted in the same course as the body. The larger the difference in the ratio of body and sleeve, the lower the height of the sleeves. As a result of the appearance sensory evaluation, a significant difference was confirmed in the result values (p<0.001) from all items on the front, side, and rear. Specifically, the appearance of the test sweater B(2:4:2) on the front and test sweater C(2:4:3) on the side and rear side was the best. When the sleeves height is properly set, the ratio of the arm line to fit the design with a natural curve is analyzed as a very important factor. The results of this study are expected to be of practical use in product development and production that can increase the feeling when wearing and design satisfaction.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.34-49
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• 2011

This study is the design case analysis of seamless knitwear in order to suggest a new direction of high value-added seamless knitwear and seek for its possibility. Seamless knitwear is the up-to-date knit product that is made by a knitting machine without sewing, and it maintains elasticity of a material itself and is the closest type to the essence of knitwear. The seamless knitwear can satisfy satisfaction of customers with more elegance and individuality and become a method to develop a high value-added design. This study suggests a new direction for the 21st century knitwear design through a practical approach of seamless knitwear designs, pursues a high value fashion, and contributes to improving national competitiveness of fashion industries in order to be a practical research data for seamless knitwear designs.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.43-53
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to show inherent and differentiated beauty by designing costume knitwear using Dancho patterns representing peculiar beauty, thus expressing free and convenient knitwear in the modern sense for women with the image of reasonableness and elegance, proposing knit design using high-class materials for satisfying the demand for the highest. With regard to expression technique of works, I selected computer Jacquard method to indicate effective comparison effect of expression material and made expression with $12{\sim}14$ gauge as base by using computer knitting machine. Through above-mentioned research process and design using Knit CAD system, I obtained following conclusion. First, it is possible to express variously and widely traditional patterns by making the most of the beauty of the orient and by recomposing the patterns of plant patterns representing "feminine image". Second, it is possible to widely represent the sense you can feel from knit by expressing variously diversity of knit structure and Jacquard knitting structure and gauge. Finally, it is possible to express designs more freely and imaginably by using computer Knit CAD system instead of actual knitting of various knit expression technique and materials application.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.61-71
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• 2008

Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. This article aims to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2005 to 2007 had been analyzed. The knitting techniques, and designing characteristics and aesthetic values of Korean knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are the following: 1. Korean knit fashion applies various knitting techniques. The knitting techniques used in Korean knit fashion are hand-knitting technique, crochet techniques, lace techniques, plain stitch, rib stitch, and purl stitch technique. 2. Decorations by trimming and matching with different textile materials are used more frequently than decorations by knit material itself. Decorating methods include fringes, spangle, beads, Rhine stone, motif and embroidery decorating. Matching with different textile materials made contrasting decoration effect. 3. Patterms by knitting structure and by arranging colors are applied. Cubic effect by knitting structure patterns, and geometric patterns by arranging colors are emphasized. 4. The formative feature beauties are natural beauty, feminine beauty, and decorative beauty. Korean knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.41-51
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• 2018

Cable knitting, one of the most representative structures of knitwear has been applied to a number of knit items in a variety of expressions every season. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various types of expressions applied with cable knitting techniques to make the necessary data for planning cable knit designs. The types of cable knitting were devide into two categories which are based on the cable knitting pattern and structure. Based on the pattern, firstly, formal type is a reproduction of traditional Aran knit style and is usually applied to a practical and comfortable timeless knit product. Secondly, informal type is irregular applied to patterns and directions to highlight the dynamics of cable patterns. Thirdly, contrasting type emphasizes the cable pattern by contrasting the color of the part of the cable pattern. Fourthly, figurative type is the expression of the conceptual motifs and using the cable knit pattern itself as motif. Based on the structure, firstly, open type is to emphasize patterns and spaces by utilizing open spaces created by the intersection of cabling stitches. Secondly, decorative type is to enhance the ornamental effect of cable knitting by various methods and other subsidiary materials. Thirdly, avant-garde type is applied in various ways with exaggerated volumes or textures using the three-dimensional effects of cable knitting. Through this study, we look forward to the possibility of expressing the unique aesthetic characteristics of each of the various knitting techniques.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.522-537
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a knitwear design with the potential for practical use through a combination of science and design by examining the concept and formative characteristics of fractal geometry and applying them to the development of 3D virtual clothing knitwear design. This study produced five main conclusions. First, the sub-concepts of "Repeatability," "Scale variability," and "complexity," which are based on self-similarity, appear together with simple regularity in the fractal formative characteristics shown in fashion design. Second, fashion fields apply fractal geometry in three-dimensional surface textures and optical textile patterns as a method of expression. Third, it was confirmed that various expressions can be created with fractal patterns by using the SDS-ONE APEX 3-4 design system; moreover, fractal patterns are a suitable design source for the development of Jacquard knitwear patterns. Fourth, in the development of knitted jacquard fractal patterns, by arranging the patterns in perspective, the effect of emphasizing or reducing the human body by optical illusion was shown. Fifth, a knit Jacquard structure with a pattern that exhibits fractal modeling characteristics and applying it to a 3D virtual clothing sample design reduces the time required for sample production while expanding the knit design's expression area and reducing costs. Thus, the clothing sample confirmed the effectiveness of practical knitwear design development.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.151-166
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the Russian abstract artist Kazimir Malevich's works during the period of absolutism and thereupon, suggest some knitwear designs practical, decorative and creative. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed domestic and foreign literature, dissertations and academic journals to determine the Russian abstract fine art and the significance of Kazimir Malevich's works in the history of arts and thereupon, examined Malevich's works or the champions of absolutism in terms of their geometric formative elements or forms and colors. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, paintings may be important motives for the contemporary costume designs, while being a major driving power for development of some original designs depending on artists' personal thoughts and expression techniques. Second, this study is deemed to suggest creative and original techniques and motive applications for fashion designs by introducing the elements of Kazimir Malevich's paintings into costume designs, and provide for an opportunity to suggest new values by combining arts and fashion. Third, the knit jacquard technique, one of the major techniques for the knit design works using Kazimir Malevich's absolutism works, is considered a tubular jacquard featuring the deepest sense of thickness. The intarsia technique is preferred in the recent trend for light fabric because it features clear background patterns and allows for thinner fabric. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will serve to expand the domain of expression by means of an art marketing or meeting between arts and fashion in our contemporary industries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.91-106
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to offer some directions for the design of men's knitwear and provide basic data helpful for design conception and product development for creative and unique men's knitwear. As for the methodology, the investigator examined the works of these following ten designers that consistently participated in the men's Milano Collection for the last ten years from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W: Burberry Prorsum, Costume National, D & G, D squared, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Iceberg, Prada, and Vivien Westwood. We identified the design elements expressed in knitwear, categorized examples for each element, and reviewed their characteristics. The results of this study are as follows. The designers usually adopted the H-silhouette with some room until 2006, after which the slim tubular silhouette became prevalent. Most of the designers made knitwear with normal yarn and expressed them by dyeing or printing regardless of seasons, which meant the usage level of fancy yarn was low. The much usage of the basic pattern was particularly salient. The most popular basic structure was plain, which was followed by rib and color pattern, which included the jacquard and intarsia pattern. The designers presented thick outer items made of thick yarn for F/W seasons and many thin inner items made of thin yarn for S/S seasons. The popular colors were brown from the Red Group(R) and beige from the Orange Group (YR) regardless of seasons. When achromatic colors were used a lot, there was a development of various grey shades. For the most used basic structure, plain, the designers employed such technical methods as printing, pleat treatment, and dyeing in high frequency.