• Disaster Prevention Review
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.138-139
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• 2013

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.394-404
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• 2013

In the present study, the characteristics of spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$, bandwidth parameter ${\varepsilon}$, and spectral width parameter ${\nu}$ were analyzed as a first step to define the swell waves quantitatively. For the analysis, the joint probability density function of significant wave heights and peak periods were newly developed. The MCMC(Markov Chain Monte Carlo) simulations have been performed to generate the significant wave heights and peak periods from the developed probability density functions. Applying the simulated significant wave heights and peak periods to the theoretical wave spectrum models, the spectral shapes parameters were obtained and analyzed. Among the spectral shape parameters, only the spectral peakedness parameter $Q_p$, is shown to be independent with the significant wave height and peak wave period. It also best represents the peakedness of the spectral shape, and henceforth $Q_p$ should be used to define the swell waves with a wave period. For the field verification of the results, wave data obtained from Hupo port and Ulleungdo were analyzed and results showed the same trend with the MCMC simulation results.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.381-387
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• 2014

Recently the large-height swell-like waves generated in the eastern coast of South Korea have been observed frequently. The characteristics of the runup and overtopping of the large-height swell-like waves formed in deep water and attack the coast, causing damages to both lives and facilities have been studied. The correlation between spectral shape parameters and significant wave height has been investigated by analyzing long term wave spectrum data. Numerical runup experiments using MIKE21 BW Module were performed with $Q_p$, additional shape parameter, and identified the variations and characteristics of runup heights with respect to the variations of spectral shape.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.81-95
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• 2014

In the present study, the statistical analysis on the storm waves in the East Sea have been carried out, and the several storm waves were reproduced by the modified WAM as a first step for the accurate and prompt forecasting and warning against the swell waves in East Sea. According to the present study, the occurrences of the storm waves from the North were the most probable, while the waves from the Northeast were most frequently observed. It was found that the significant wave heights of storm waves from the North and Northern northeast were larger than those of storm waves from the Northeast. But due to long fetch distance, the significant wave periods of storm waves from the Northesast were longer than those of North and Northern northeast. In addition to the wave analysis, the numerical experiments for the storm waves in East Sea were carried out using the modified WAM, and three periods of storm waves in 2013 were calculated. The numerical results were well agreed with wave measurements. However the numerical simulation results in shallow water region showed lower accuracies compared to deep water, which might be due to lower resolution of wind field and bottom topography caused by large grid size, 5 minute, adopted in the present study. Overall computational efficiency of the modified WAM found to be excellent compared to original WAM. It is because the modified WAM adopted the implicit scheme, thereby the present model performed 10 time faster than original WAM in computation time.