This study aimed at proving the fact that Men also wear SOKGOT similar to women's pants in early Chosun era unlike the general opinion that the men's pants is SAPOK-BAJI. From what SAPOK-BAJI didn't show up in the contemporary remains and the fact that men also wear GAE-DANG-GO (the pants opened low parts). which is one of SOKGOT types in ancient time of China, the assumption above can be guessed. Since the clothes style in Chosun era centered on PO. and the pants were designed not to show out. it can be considered there are any troubles for men to wear the SOKGOT style pants. But through Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and Chinese invasion of Korea in 1636. changes happened. Due to reflection and awaking about wide and burdensome clothes. the change seemed to be happened from wide SOKGOT style to narrow SAPOK style. The SOKGOT style pants seemed to settle down for women's only as men's pants become SAPOK-BAJI.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.29
no.7
s.144
/
pp.909-917
/
2005
Based on the theory that formation of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is related to Mobius strip, this study researches correlation between distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers and historical background based on old documents and restoration. Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers are as follows. First, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is manufactured just like Principle of Mobius strip that the square is twisted once, considering its materials' conditions. Second, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, manufactured larger, feature cubic effect and twisted formative beauty because its waist and ankle parts are tightened with bands. Third, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, composed of big Sapok and small Sapok in oblique, are suitable for active play due to its high functionality.
This study was conducted in order to spread out lower body 3D scan data of men in their twenties. The aim was to achieve slacks pattern with ease allowance through comparison with existing flat patterns. For conversion of 3D scan data into 20 pattern, reference lines were established by using Rapid Foam in 3D shape analysis software. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD were used to convert 20 pattern earned with straight posture of 3D scan data into slacks pattern by using Triangle Simplification & Runge-Kutta Method. In order to achieve this we needed to set a line 9cm below the hip line, to array vertex of each block to crease line while maintaining the horizontal line. And then we needed to set ease allowance in back crotch and to set waist circumference or hip circumference ease allowance in side seam of slacks. Results showed that long front crotch length can be achieved if 3D scan data is compared with 20 existing flat pattern. Slacks pattern that raise front crotch by about 1.5cm compared to back crotch and also possess ease allowance in back crotch area are great in appearance evaluation.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
/
v.16
no.2
/
pp.195-209
/
2014
This study aimed to identify the preferred jeans design and needed improvements through survey research aimed at men aged 20~29. In order to identify the current wearing trends and problems of jeans, the study carried out survey research aimed at men in their twenties who had purchased and worn jeans. As a result of survey research aimed at consumers, it was discovered that fit was deemed most important during the purchase of jeans. As to the question which type of slacks was worn most frequently, the answer was slim type jeans. Regarding body parts that became the selection standard during the purchase of jeans, the answer was thigh and waist. The body parts that showed the lowest assessment result appeared to be thigh circumference, waist measurement, slacks length, and slacks bottom. To a question asking about things to be repaired and to be improved, they replied that there were problems in measurement fit, dissatisfaction with materials, and washing and management.
For the establishment of ready made Hanbok for the people in their 20's this study aims to develope Bagi-chogori pattern that revives the esthetic quality of the traditional Hanbok as well as comfortably fit the body. Direct method was used in Measuring the 33 parts of men which was selected as items needed for the analysis of the body and the development of patterns. In accordance with the body measurement and the analysis of the result the bust girth and height which has interrelation was chosen as the standard size for the development of pattern. Men's Baji-chogori(Korean traditional Jacket and Pants) which doesn't request fitness for instance we drew out a cross table by giving 5cm intervals each for breast waist hip girth and height. Size system of Baji-chogori was 4 steps. 1st was bust 95cm height 165cm 2nd was bust girth 95cm height 170cm 3rd was bust girth 100cm height 175cm and the 4th was bust girth 105cm height 180cm. In the case of Men the grouping of bodies was attempted by concentrating on the difference of the drop amount(Bust girth to hip girth), However 90% of men in their 20's showed a silhouette of an inverted triangle. Therefore attempt for an additional grouping wasn's Only calculation concerning the ease amount of items such as bust which and length was considered to enhance the silhouette of Hanbok when worn. Men's body for instance have a tendency to change to a rectangular shape as they get older. specially the abdominal girth trend to increase greatly. So study and development of pattern should be made for all age groups.
The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.32
no.6
/
pp.999-1011
/
2008
To most of the students studying fashion related major, the graduation fashion show is a big challenge. They have to put together all they learn and show what they can do to their future employers. They design, pattern work, and make up garments for the show all by themselves. Unfortunately. while they make up their garments, they usually don't Dow exactly body measurements of the models. So quite often they have to alter their art works up to the last minute of the fashion show opening. Sometimes such unadequate work process ruins their work. The purpose of this study is to suggest block patterns of Korean fashion models measurements for basic items, such as jacket and pants for male models and torso length block pattern, skirt and pants for female models. 20 male and 20 female professional models were measured. The block patterns were based on their measurements. After the first fitting test, patterns were corrected by their body characteristic. For both male and female models, it was found desirable to fix the shoulder width and make an adjustment to the patterns with a deviation of width and girth items. In case of the resultant patterns the satisfaction was made better. Model sizes proposed in this study are considered closer to the size of average models, since they were based on A-grade models who are currently working in Korea. The resultant patterns can be produced by simply making a slight adjustment to the width of the proposed pattern in this study.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.13
no.2
s.30
/
pp.146-154
/
1989
The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of man's Korean traditional trousers (Hanbok Baji). The IBM-PC/AT Computer was used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows. 1. Basic pattern of Hanbok Baji was selected. 2. Co-ordinate points were instituted for indicate of relative location of all necessary points in drafting. 3. A program for drafting was developed. 4. The pattern of Baji for man's Hanbok was automatically design by inputting individual body measurement (trouser length and hip girth). 5. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.
When analyzing forms in the human body and clothes, we conceptualize each part into a cone, sphere, and cylinder, and the esthetic characteristics of our fashion culture and esthetic fashion characteristics of Koreans are composed by expressing with universal images such as circle, square, and triangle when forms are expressed in a plane. To determine how the structural principle of shapes that are the shapes of all things and basic to geometry, i.e., circle, square, and triangle, applies to clothes that cloth our body called the small cosmos, we discussed the symbolic meaning hidden inside the structure of Korean clothes based on the basic pattern drafting method of Korean men’s traditional trousers. We drew the conclusion that Korean men's trousers composed of circles, triangles, and squares express the five elements diagram through their plane structure, are designed in circles with cones and pyramids, and are made to well express the principle of the small cosmos of our body. Moreover, when the basic pattern of Korean men’s trousers explained with the antipathy diagram is viewed to create all things while maintaining opposite and complementary relationship with Sangsang (mutually benefitting factor), it would be correct to say that the principle of the top verse the bottom is viewed as conflicting. From the structural point of view, since the philosophy of the Samsu principle (the principle of 1, 2 and 3 in which 1 represents the heaven, 2 represents the earth, and 3 represents the people) is hidden in Korean men's trousers in which Hurimalgi (the part of trousers corresponding to the waist band of Western pants) is the circle representing the heaven, Marupok is the square representing the earth, and Sapok is the triangle representing the people, we could look at deep meaning of our ancestors expressed in our clothes.
A survey was conducted to study attitudes of physician, nurse and patient towards physician's and nurse's uniform, from March 1 to March 31, 1996. The study population was 130 physicians and 147 nurses engaged in Yeungnam University Medical Center and 211 inpatients of Yeungnam University Medical Center. A questionnaire method was used to collect data. The following are summaries of findings: In the respect of physician's uniform, both physicians and nurses preferred other type of gown to the traditional coat-typed one and especially, nurses preferred more than physicians. Patients showed no difference in the preference of the traditional one and other form of gown as a whole but those who had higher educational level preferred other form of gown(p<0.01). Regarding the color of physician's gown, 73.6% of physicians and nurses liked white color, and 86.3% of the patients also liked the white color. Male physicians preferred the white color more than female physicians and nurses(p<0.01). Patients showed no meaningful difference for the color. The opinion of insisting on wearing a necktie when physician see patients was given by male physicians, physicians of fifty or more, physicians working in the field of medicine and professors, which showed significantly higher percentage than other groups(p<0.01). In the group of patiens, the same opinion was given by female, the group of sixty or more, the group of elementary school graduates or less and people residing in other cities and counties more than male, the group of other ages, the group of having higher educational level and people of Taegu city(p<0.01). It tended to agree wearing casual wear of physician during the working time of weekend and holiday as a whole. Younger physicians showed significantly higher preference for it(p<0.05). Regarding the nurse's uniform, both physicians and nurses preferred trousers, and 96% of the nurses did. Especially, nurses who were forty years old or more and who served at outpatient department and administrative and aid parts expressed 100 percent partiality to trousers. For the patients, those who had lower educational level preferred skirt and those who had higher educational level preferred trousers. As to the color of nurse's gown, 46.7% of the physicians and nurses liked white color. The physicians preferred white and nurses preferred other color(p<0.01). Of the patients, 79.1% liked white color. Regarding the wearing cap, 95.9% of the nurses replied it didn't have to wear the cap. The nurses who were fifty or more and who served at outpatient department and special parts gave whole answers of not having to wear the cap. On the other hand, 77.7% of the patients answered nurse had to wear the cap. From the above findings, it would be advisable to give a change to the forms and colors of the gowns to match with the trend and sense of the time instead of insisting on the traditional typical ones.
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