• 복식
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• 제52권7호
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• pp.45-55
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• 2002

This study aimed at proving the fact that Men also wear SOKGOT similar to women's pants in early Chosun era unlike the general opinion that the men's pants is SAPOK-BAJI. From what SAPOK-BAJI didn't show up in the contemporary remains and the fact that men also wear GAE-DANG-GO (the pants opened low parts). which is one of SOKGOT types in ancient time of China, the assumption above can be guessed. Since the clothes style in Chosun era centered on PO. and the pants were designed not to show out. it can be considered there are any troubles for men to wear the SOKGOT style pants. But through Japanese invasion of Korea in 1592 and Chinese invasion of Korea in 1636. changes happened. Due to reflection and awaking about wide and burdensome clothes. the change seemed to be happened from wide SOKGOT style to narrow SAPOK style. The SOKGOT style pants seemed to settle down for women's only as men's pants become SAPOK-BAJI.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.909-917
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• 2005

Based on the theory that formation of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is related to Mobius strip, this study researches correlation between distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers and historical background based on old documents and restoration. Distinctive construction of Korean Men's Traditional Trousers are as follows. First, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers is manufactured just like Principle of Mobius strip that the square is twisted once, considering its materials' conditions. Second, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, manufactured larger, feature cubic effect and twisted formative beauty because its waist and ankle parts are tightened with bands. Third, Korean Men's Traditional Trousers, composed of big Sapok and small Sapok in oblique, are suitable for active play due to its high functionality.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제46권9호
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• pp.137-146
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• 2008

This study was conducted in order to spread out lower body 3D scan data of men in their twenties. The aim was to achieve slacks pattern with ease allowance through comparison with existing flat patterns. For conversion of 3D scan data into 20 pattern, reference lines were established by using Rapid Foam in 3D shape analysis software. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD were used to convert 20 pattern earned with straight posture of 3D scan data into slacks pattern by using Triangle Simplification & Runge-Kutta Method. In order to achieve this we needed to set a line 9cm below the hip line, to array vertex of each block to crease line while maintaining the horizontal line. And then we needed to set ease allowance in back crotch and to set waist circumference or hip circumference ease allowance in side seam of slacks. Results showed that long front crotch length can be achieved if 3D scan data is compared with 20 existing flat pattern. Slacks pattern that raise front crotch by about 1.5cm compared to back crotch and also possess ease allowance in back crotch area are great in appearance evaluation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.195-209
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• 2014

This study aimed to identify the preferred jeans design and needed improvements through survey research aimed at men aged 20~29. In order to identify the current wearing trends and problems of jeans, the study carried out survey research aimed at men in their twenties who had purchased and worn jeans. As a result of survey research aimed at consumers, it was discovered that fit was deemed most important during the purchase of jeans. As to the question which type of slacks was worn most frequently, the answer was slim type jeans. Regarding body parts that became the selection standard during the purchase of jeans, the answer was thigh and waist. The body parts that showed the lowest assessment result appeared to be thigh circumference, waist measurement, slacks length, and slacks bottom. To a question asking about things to be repaired and to be improved, they replied that there were problems in measurement fit, dissatisfaction with materials, and washing and management.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.146-154
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of man's Korean traditional trousers (Hanbok Baji). The IBM-PC/AT Computer was used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows. 1. Basic pattern of Hanbok Baji was selected. 2. Co-ordinate points were instituted for indicate of relative location of all necessary points in drafting. 3. A program for drafting was developed. 4. The pattern of Baji for man's Hanbok was automatically design by inputting individual body measurement (trouser length and hip girth). 5. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

• 복식
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• 제47권
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• pp.61-72
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• 1999

For the establishment of ready made Hanbok for the people in their 20's this study aims to develope Bagi-chogori pattern that revives the esthetic quality of the traditional Hanbok as well as comfortably fit the body. Direct method was used in Measuring the 33 parts of men which was selected as items needed for the analysis of the body and the development of patterns. In accordance with the body measurement and the analysis of the result the bust girth and height which has interrelation was chosen as the standard size for the development of pattern. Men's Baji-chogori(Korean traditional Jacket and Pants) which doesn't request fitness for instance we drew out a cross table by giving 5cm intervals each for breast waist hip girth and height. Size system of Baji-chogori was 4 steps. 1st was bust 95cm height 165cm 2nd was bust girth 95cm height 170cm 3rd was bust girth 100cm height 175cm and the 4th was bust girth 105cm height 180cm. In the case of Men the grouping of bodies was attempted by concentrating on the difference of the drop amount(Bust girth to hip girth), However 90% of men in their 20's showed a silhouette of an inverted triangle. Therefore attempt for an additional grouping wasn's Only calculation concerning the ease amount of items such as bust which and length was considered to enhance the silhouette of Hanbok when worn. Men's body for instance have a tendency to change to a rectangular shape as they get older. specially the abdominal girth trend to increase greatly. So study and development of pattern should be made for all age groups.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

국내 패션관련 교육기관은 대부분은 졸업작품 쇼를 행하고 있는데, 학생들이 직접 제작하는 작품 쇼의 경우는 시간적, 경제적 인 여유 부족과 정확한 모델 치수 및 이에 따른 인대와 원형패턴의 부재로 의상 제작 후, 사이즈 수정에 많은 시간을 허비하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구는 대학의 졸업작품 진행 과정의 문제점과 필요한 원형의 종류를 조사하고, 현역 A급 모델의 신체 치수를 계측하여 표준 사이즈를 조사하였다. 이를 토대로 아이템에 따른 원형을 제작, 이를 현역 모델에 착장하여 졸업 쇼를 위한 기본 패턴을 제시하고자 하였다. 졸업작품 쇼는 학교에 따라 진행하는 과정과 기간에 차이를 보이지만 대부분 모델 가봉 후 수선 정도가 많고 경우에 따라서는 의상을 새로이 제작하여야하는 경우도 발생하여 모델 사이즈의 기본원형에 대한 필요성이 많이 나타났다. 모델의 신체 계측결과 모델은 일반인에 비해 슬림하고 가는 체형이며 키가 크고 다리가 길다. 여자의 경우 어깨너비가 일반인에 비해 넓지만 가슴둘레와 허리둘레는 더 가늘게 나타났으며 어깨를 편 바른 자세여서 뒷품과 앞품의 차이가 적었다. 이는 남자 모델의 경우도 같게 나타났고 전체적으로 다리길이와 소매길이의 비율이 크게 나타났다. 여자의 경우 토르소와 스커트, 바지패턴을, 남자의 경우 재킷과 바지 패턴을 머슬린으로 제작하여 현재 활동 중인 A급 남녀 모델 각각 2명씩에게 착장하였다. 제작원형들은 그 맞음새가 모두 적절하였고 남녀 모두 상의 경우는 편차가 적은 어깨너비는 고정하고 품과 둘레항목에서 편차를 주어 패턴을 수정하는 것이 바람직하다. 하의의 경우 여자 모델은 엉덩이 부분에 여유가 없는 바지원형을 설계 제시하고, 이는 타이트 핏 팬츠나 스트레치 소재에 사용에 적절하고 여유 있는 바지의 경우는 엉덩이둘레 폭과 밑위너비 폭에 변화를 주는 것이 바람직하다. 남자모델의 경우 하의는 비교적 잘 맞아 수정이 필요한 부분이 없었으며 전체적인 둘레 편차 역시 3cm 내외로 작아 수정의 폭은 작다. 다만 키에 따른 다리길이 편차가 심해 모델에 따라 길이조정 이 필요하지만 전체적인 맞음새에 영향을 주지 않았다. 이와 같이 본 연구에서 제안한 모델 치수는 현재 우리나라에서 활동하고 있는 A급 모델을 기준으로 제안되었으므로 평균적인 모델 치수와 근접하다고 할 수 있다. 또한 연구패턴 역시 현재 모델의 신체에 적절하게 잘 맞았으며 모델 개인에 따른 신체 치수의 편차에 따라 차이를 보이겠지만 본 연구에서 제시된 패턴의 품 조절만으로도 충분히 잘 맞는 패턴으로 사료된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.367-374
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• 2003

When analyzing forms in the human body and clothes, we conceptualize each part into a cone, sphere, and cylinder, and the esthetic characteristics of our fashion culture and esthetic fashion characteristics of Koreans are composed by expressing with universal images such as circle, square, and triangle when forms are expressed in a plane. To determine how the structural principle of shapes that are the shapes of all things and basic to geometry, i.e., circle, square, and triangle, applies to clothes that cloth our body called the small cosmos, we discussed the symbolic meaning hidden inside the structure of Korean clothes based on the basic pattern drafting method of Korean men’s traditional trousers. We drew the conclusion that Korean men's trousers composed of circles, triangles, and squares express the five elements diagram through their plane structure, are designed in circles with cones and pyramids, and are made to well express the principle of the small cosmos of our body. Moreover, when the basic pattern of Korean men’s trousers explained with the antipathy diagram is viewed to create all things while maintaining opposite and complementary relationship with Sangsang (mutually benefitting factor), it would be correct to say that the principle of the top verse the bottom is viewed as conflicting. From the structural point of view, since the philosophy of the Samsu principle (the principle of 1, 2 and 3 in which 1 represents the heaven, 2 represents the earth, and 3 represents the people) is hidden in Korean men's trousers in which Hurimalgi (the part of trousers corresponding to the waist band of Western pants) is the circle representing the heaven, Marupok is the square representing the earth, and Sapok is the triangle representing the people, we could look at deep meaning of our ancestors expressed in our clothes.

• Journal of Yeungnam Medical Science
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.324-346
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• 1996

의사와 간호사의 복장에 대한 견해를 파악하기 위하여 1996년 3월1일부터 1996년 3월31일까지 영남대학교 의료원에 근무하는 의사 130명, 간호사 147명과 입원환자 211명을 대상으로 자기기입식 설문조사를 실시하였다. 의상의 복장에서는 의사와 간호사 모두 기존 코트 형태의 가운보다 다른 형태의 가운을 선호하였고, 특히, 의사보다 간호사들이 더 선호하였다. 환자에서 전체적으로 기존 형태와 다른 형태의 가운에 대한 선호도의 차이는 없었으나, 학력이 높을수록 다른 형태의 가운을 더 선호하였다(p<0.01). 의사의 가운 색상에 있어 의사와 간호사의 73.6%는 흰색을 선호하였으며, 환자는 86.3%가 흰색을 선호하였다. 남자의사가 여자의사와 간호사에 비해 흰색을 더 선호하였고(p<0.01), 환자에서는 색상 선호도에 대한 유의한 차이는 없었다. 진료시 넥타이를 착용해야 한다라는 응답률이 남자의사, 40세 이상 의사, 내과계 근무 의사, 그리고 교수에서 다른 군보다 유의하게 높았다(p<0.01). 환자에서는 여자가 남자보다, 60세 이상군이 다른 연령군보다, 초등졸 이하군이 다른 학력군보다, 기타 시지역 거주자와 군지역 거주자가 대구시 거주자보다 더 높았다(p<0.01). 주말 및 휴일 진료시 의사의 캐주얼 복장에 대해서는 전체적으로 찬성하는 편이었고, 의사의 연령이 젊을수록 유의하게 선호도가 높았다(p<0.05). 간호사 복장에 대해서는 의사와 간호사 전체의 78%가 바지 착용을 선호하였고, 간호사는 96%가 바지 착용을 선호하였으며, 특히, 40세 이상군과 외래, 지원 및 행정부서에 근무하는 간호사들은 100% 선호하였다. 환자들은 학력이 낮을수록 스커트를 선호하였고, 고학력군일수록 바지 착용을 선호하였다. 간호사의 가운 색상에 대해서는 의사와 간호사 전체의 46.7%가 흰색을 선호하였고, 의사들은 흰색을, 간호사들은 다른 색을 더 선호하였다(p<0.01). 환자들은 79.1%가 흰색을 선호하였다. 캡 착용에 대한 문항에서 간호사들은 95.9%가 착용하지 않아도 좋다고 응답하였으며, 특히, 40세 이상군과 외래 및 특수부서에 근무하는 간호사들은 전원 캡을 착용하지 않아도 좋다라고 응답하였다. 반면에 환자들은 77.7%가 캡을 착용하여야 한다라고 응답하였다. 이상의 결과로 보아 의사와 간호사의 복장은 기존의 전통적인 형태와 색상만을 고집할 것이 아니라, 의사와 간호사 본인들과 환자들의 의견을 만족시킬 뿐만 아니라 시대적 흐름과 현실감각에 맞게 가운의 형태와 색상에 변화를 주는 것을 고려하는 것이 좋을 것이라고 사료되었다.