• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.93-108
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• 2008

This study held physical measurement for male subjects in their 20s living in Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province in China, showing the biggest market in men's clothes. Their representative lower body types with average shapes and sizes were chosen so as to develop men's slacks patterns with better dimension fitness. The following are the results of the analysis: 1. Slacks patterns were made based on the mean measurement values of 5 people, who were closest to the representative body types, from the index*absolute group of 47 people. The dimensions of application for slacks pattern-making were 77cm(omphalion waist circumference), 91cm(hip circumference), and 103cm(slacks length). 2. For the comparison of high-fitness and more-room pattern dimensions, 5 styles of slacks were made: Korean, Chinese, British, Japanese, and industrial. In the dressing fitness tests, industrial patterns had excellent appearance and Japanese ones had the best function. 3. Based on the analysis results of slacks pattern comparison, the target slacks were experimentally made and received superior evaluation points to the compared slacks patterns in two times of evaluation for appearance and function. 4. The final slacks pattern in this research had the following dimensions: front waist circumference: W(1-2cm with room included)/4-1cm, back waist circumference: W/4+1cm, front hip circumference: H(9$\sim$10cm with room included)/4-1cm, back hip circumference: H/4+1cm, crotch length: H/4-1.5cm, hip length: crotch length-H/12, front crotch extension: H/16-1.5cm, back crotch extension: H/8+3cm, knee line: 33cm below crotch line, front tuck amount: 4cm, back dart amount: 2.5cm(center) and 1.5cm(side), and back dart length: 10cm (center) and 6cm(side).

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.36-60
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• 2021

This study aimed to provide basic data for establishing a sizing system for menswear by investigating body size changes and body shapes in adult men in their 30s to 50s. Data on 52 different upper body categories collected from 4,314 people during the 5-7th Size Korea surveys were analyzed. The waist height, hip height, torso and arm lengths, and torso and upper limb circumferences increased while the arm joint sizes decreased. According to factor analysis, factors 1 and 2 referred to 'the horizontal size of the upper body and limbs' and the 'torso height and upper limb length', respectively, while factors 3 and 4 represented 'shoulder size' and 'upper body length' respectively. In clustering analysis, types 1 and 2 were 'short and fat' and 'tall and thin,' respectively, while types 3 and 4 represented 'tallest and chubby' and 'shortest and small' respectively. Torso length increased in the 30 to 40s in type 1 while torso circumference increased in the 30s and late 40s in type 2. In type 3, shoulders got bigger in the 30s. In type 4, torso circumference increased in the early 30s, and torso length increased in the late 40s. 'Thin' was a typical body shape in the early 30s. Among early 40s men, distribution evolved from 'small' to 'thin.' In the late 40s, while the percentage of 'small' decreased, the ratio of 'obese' increased. In the 50s, 'small' was the most common.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.679-689
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• 2018

The purpose of this study was to investigate the wearing & fit of ready-made and online custom dress shirts by surveying middle-aged men aged 40-54 years in order to collect information necessary for making good fit dress shirts. Also, we analyzed whether there were significant differences in the actual wearing of dress shirts according to the stature of middle-aged men. The stature was classified according to KS K 0050 as $R(157{\leq}x<170)$ and $T(170{\leq}x<182)$. The 23 questionnaire items were divided into three categories: 'General purchasing behavior and wearing', 'Fit satisfaction of ready-made dress shirts' and 'Wearing and fit satisfaction of online custom dress shirts'. Through the results of the study, we could understand the actual wearing condition of ready-made and online custom dress shirts. Also, differences in stature groups were found. The significant differences according to the stature groups were found in the interest in fashion, the purchase criteria, the limitation of the shirt size selection due to stature and body shape, shirt size satisfaction, repair experience, dissatisfaction with purchase and the experience of purchasing online custom dress shirts. Suggestions should be made to improve dissatisfaction with stature groups in the ready-made dress shirts. In addition, the study confirmed the consumer demand for the online custom dress shirts. In order to activate the online custom market, the online custom dress shirts company needs to reduce consumer dissatisfaction and improve size suitability.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권3호
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• pp.222-238
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• 2019

This study is aimed at applying the philosophical concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$" to contemporary men's fashion design, which could effectively show the shift in thinking. For the study method, the author examined the theoretical background of deconstruction and prepared the standard of analysis by organizing the concept of "$diff{\acute{e}}rance$," which exists at the center of philosophy. This study selected the three most popular brands: Maison Margiela, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto. The results are as follows. First, there is expression of perpetual reservation emphasizing time. This includes texture, patchworks, hems with ladder, and exposure of seam that expresses the trace of time flow and delayed delivery of immediate meaning, and the expression creates delay between major and minor and leads to consistent role exchange. Second, the trace of blank that emphasizes the space gives a visual sense of weight on spares with the intentionally granted space, as well as the space that is the trace of trace and creates a sense of depth through the direction of empty space. Third, the space created in the process of wearing cloth is visualized, the structure of clothing is deconstructed, and the movement from the process recomposes the shape of space and expands the definition that enables expansion of time and space. Fourth, the undetermined relationship expresses the border of time and space visually and deconstructs time and space. The approaches are mostly constructive, demonstrating an avant-garde form of clothes-wearing to show the non-form or imbalance condition.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.164-177
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the differences in the image perception of dress shirts, the shirts style preference, the men's fashion consciousness, the shirt purchase attitude, and the usage of the information source between the Daks group(44 respondents) and Renoma group(21 respondents), for developing the possibility and strategy of the dress shirt market in men's wear market for the apparel marketers and manufacturers. For this study, the data obtained from 65 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics, Pearson's simple correlation, ANOVA. The results from the study were as follows ; The 6 stimuli for image perception rated on 5 point Likert-type scales in the 12 features were evaluated by perceivers. By the best 3 features abstracted from each stimulus, the shirts styles were named, they were Basic style, Soft style, Sophisticated style, Modern casual style, Mannish style, and Trendy style. There were significant differences in the image perception of Mannish style, the preferences of shirts style, the fashion consciousness, the shirt purchase attitude, and the usage of the information source between the Daks group and Renoma group.

• 복식
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• 제46권
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• pp.67-88
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• 1999

텍스타일의 발전에 있어서 진보적 기술혁신은 합성섬유의 잠재력을 높이는데 큰 촉매 역할을 해왔는데 그 중 가장 두드러지게 성공적인 분야는 바로 스트레치 직물 분야이다. 스트레치는 그자체의 다양한 종류와 변화무쌍한 특성과 함께 스포츠 웨어, 캐주얼웨어 뿐 아니라 최근에는 정장류 남성복에 이르기 까지 그 사용범위와 미적 표현이 크게 증가되고 다양해졌다. 스트레치의 미는 기능적이고 편안하면서도 직물자체의 유동적인 특성과 함께 인체와 더불어 표출되는시각적 이미지가 현대미에 새로운 개념을 더하고있다는 데에 그 가치가 있다. 본 연구목적은 현대 패션디자인에 표현되어진 스트레치의 미적 개념과 가치가 무엇인가를 발견하는데 있다. 특히 섬유과학기술의 진보로 인한 스트레치 직물의 다양함과 그에대한 디자이너들의 패션철학과 디자인의 다양한 변화를 강조하고 나아가 다음세기를 위한 보다 나은 디자인의 방향을 제시해 보고자한다. 연구결과는 다음과같다. 1, 스트레치의 가장 두드러지는 현대적 미는 편안함과 기능성에 있다. 특히 스트레치 직물 자체가 더욱 가벼워지고 강해지면서 현대생활과 미래생활에서 가장 크게 중시되고 있는 comfortable & functional 의 이상적인 개념을 충적시켜 주고 있다. 2. 스트레치 직물의 유동적특징에서 대표적으로 나타난 스타일은 바디스트인데 이것은 스트레치 자체의 신축성이 기본적으로 인체곡선 위에서 표현되어진 것으로서 거의 비슷한 스타일의 uniformity 현상을 낳게 되었고 또한 인체선의 드러남으로 인해 'healthy'이미지 추구라는 현대미의 새로운 개념을 가져왔다. 2. 더욱 정교해진 스트레치는 결국 transparent look을 낳았고 또한 비치는 직물들을 겹쳐입는 layering 현상을 가져왔는데 이것은 현대적 순수미와 여성미가 시감각적 이미지로 표현되어진 것이라 할수 있다. 4. 스트레치가 되므로서 생기는 긴장은 다른 디자인 요소들에 대해서는 극히 단순한 것을 요구하면서 결국 simplicity를 동반하게 되었다. 5. 스트레치는 디자인 구성 요소들의 보다 작은 개념을 낳았는데 즉 더욱 좁아진 형과 작아진 사이즈 없어지거나 줄어든 다트와 구성선 그리고 그에따라 줄어든 공정과 낮아진 가격이다. 이 개념은 현대미의 minimalism의 한 현상으로 해석되어지며 스트레치 직물은 여기에 가장 부합되는 소재가 되었다. 6. 스트레치의 시각적 이미지는 그자체가 'easy' 'free'느낌과 함께 보편적이면서 미래적이다. 이상으로 볼 때 미래의 패션은 보다 진보적인 섬유과학발전에 힘입어 21세기의 새로운 환경에 잘 적응 할 수 있는 합리적이면서도 미적 가치가 내포된 인간에게 보다 친숙한 디자인으로 전개되리라고 생각되어진다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권4호
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• pp.572-584
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• 2021

The emergence of environmental and social issues has led to global discussions for the realization of sustainable development. The purpose of this study is to propose a method of sustainable fashion design using waste Hanbok, focusing on men's Hanbok with cultural values. The study utilizes literature research and fashion design development. From the literature study, reform was judged to be a higher concept encompassing reduction, recycling, and upcycling. Reduction is a design method through removal, and recycling design transforms from its original form into a completely different product. Upcycling design focuses on improvement and change in functionality. Accordingly, nine redesigns using men's Hanbok were developed from which three were produced. Consequently, the reduction design demonstrated a small range of variation without changing the item, and cultural sustainability was confirmed through the design that removed the components and recombined the Hanbok. Second, recycling redesign can be reconstituted into a different item. Third, upcycling enables various designs through module assembly, which prolongs the lifespan of the product and confirms its value as a raw material for waste Hanbok. This study is meaningful in realizing sustainable fashion and suggesting practical measures for the sustainability of Korean traditional culture and creative fashion design planning.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권1호
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• pp.16-38
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop a fashion design with a greater sense of modernism based on the characteristics and design elements of Myanmar traditional clothing focusing on the Yandanapon Mandalay period of the last dynasty of Myanmar using the SCAMPER technique, which is one of the creative methodologies. Contemporary menswear fashion designs were developed based on the individual elements of the questionnaire on the SCAMPER technique using fashion design elements. The design development process was as follows. First, this study set the developmental theme of contemporary menswear fashion design in Myanmar's traditional clothing style during the Yadanapon Mandalay period. Second, to develop designs using the SCAMPER technique, the elements of Myanmar's traditional clothing were first divided into item composition and design elements, followed by application of the SCAMPER questionnaire. Also, various designs were developed by combining and applying different elements. Third, optionally selective elements evolved from the design development process using the SCAMPER technique questionnaire. Fourth, the design evaluation was used to select the designs matching the study purpose out of 55 design sketches via FGI (Focus Group Interview) consisting of four fashion designers. Fifth, a total of six designs were selected by additional design modification. Based on the aforementioned processes, a total of six works of men's clothing design were presented. This study provides basic data for the cultural and aesthetic understanding of traditional Myanmar clothing. It also serves as a source of new ideas to express modern fashion design in different ways.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제28권4호
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• pp.151-163
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• 2023

본 연구는 친환경 소비에 대한 MZ세대의 인식과 친환경 기념품에 대한 선호도를 알아보고자 하였다. 업사이클링 제품을 구매하는 이유로는 디자인, 가격, 차별성, 환경보호 등의 순으로 나타나 디자인이 제품 구매에 가장 큰 영향을 미침을 알 수 있다. 업사이클링 기념품 구매 시에도 디자인을 가장 많이 고려하였다. 환경문제에서는 환경오염의 심각성을 가장 크게 인식하고 있었으며, 패션제품의 재활용이 필요하다고 생각하였다. 친환경적인 패션제품 구매행동에서는 유행하는 옷보다 오래 입을 수 있는 옷을 선택하는 경우가 가장 많았다. 환경이나 친환경상품에 대한 관심이 있을 때 업사이클링 제품에 대한 구매가 이루어지는 것으로 나타났다. 또, 업사이클링 제품 구매 경험이 있을 경우 친환경 패션상품과 패션제품 재활용에 대한 인식이 높고 관심이 많은 것으로 나타났다. 환경문제에 대한 관심과 업사이클링 기념품에 대한 인식은 남성보다 여성이 높았다. 추후 연구에서는 업사이클링 제품, 환경문제, 소비자행동, 업사이클링 기념품 간의 상관성에 관한 연구를 진행해볼 필요가 있을 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식
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• 제52권4호
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• pp.51-63
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the symbolic meaning in 20th century men’s fashion through analyzing of social environment factors. After recent industrial society, men had expressed their privilege, prestige and social power according to fashion. Men's fashion at the beginning of the 20th century was emerged as the images of robustness and strictness with perfect cutting, thick and stick fabric and dark color that were influenced by british style. It was symbolic meaning of authority orientation which showed the superiorities of social and sex classes. It was beginning of change according to social phenomena. The world war Ⅰ,Ⅱ and change of lifestyle by material affluence in automobile industry mollified rules of men's fashion. It showed a serenity of living. Also, the growth of young culture changed trickle-down of men's fashion into bottom-up and showed opposition for elite culture in fashion. These change particularly became acceleration by Individualism, open-society and the collapse of sex class. Men expressed sexual and inherent desire for fashion that was no longer concerned with symbolizing of authority but rather with pleasure pursuit.