• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.51-66
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• 2010

This study aimed to analyze the changing characteristics between Men's Gender Role and Men's wear Design in 20th century. To analyze the representative Men' Gender roles, the related studies and literatures reviewed. Literature reviews and quantitative studies were performed to analyze the changing differences of Korean Men's wear Deign as a symbolic factors of gender role. The results of study are as follows. 1) The representative men's gender roles in 1900's~1920's were 'Patriarchal/ Stern Man'. The narrow V-zone of jacket and shoulder, high shirt collars and well fitted suits expressed the stern images of that times. 2) In 1930's~50's, 'Enervated/ Escapist Man' were the representative images. They were expressed with wide lapels and shoulders, emphasized V-zone and abundant trousers. Especially 40's style was under the influence of American 'Zoot Style'. 3) The representative gender roles were the men of 'Producer/Provider' in 60's~70's. Shortened jacket, wide lapels & neckties, slim trousers were used to express the strong & young images of Producer/ Provider during the industrialization era. 4) The representative gender roles were 'Attentive/ Intellectual/ Beautiful Men' in 80's~90's. The exaggerated round shoulders which were influenced by 'Big Look', and easy silhouette were related with the attentive images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.