• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.21
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• pp.17-28
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• 2019

The term jinjuseon(眞珠扇), meaning literally a pearl fan, refers to a fan decorated with precious stones for use in royal wedding ceremonies. This study examined a jinjuseon housed in the National Palace Museum of Korea (NPMK) which currently lacks jeweled ornaments. In order to determine whether pearls or other gemstone settings originally ornamented the fan,the surface and composition of the gray materials remaining on the washers were investigated and the fan was compared with other artifacts decorated using similar techniques. The analysis revealed that the gray materials visible around the round rims of the washers contain tin-lead alloys. The traces of folded nails suggest that soldering was not applied. The remains of the infill observed in other artifacts with bezel settings indicate that this jinjuseon in the NPMK collection was produced using abezel setting technique wherein pearls or other gemstones were affixed by filling cylindrical bezels with tin-lead alloys.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.382-396
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• 2024

"Keunmeori", the grand headdress with various decorations attached to thickly braided and raised hair has been used as a bride's formal attire since the Joseon Dynasty, and in the modern period, new styles known as goegye and hyuche appeared as formal attire for civil weddings. Goegye was formed from a round wooden pillar wrapped with hair and decorated richly with ornaments; getting married with goegye meant that the wife was officially married. Hyuche was made by braiding the hair into two long plaits and decorating it with colorful fluttering hairpins and gold leaf hair ribbons. Hyuche was originally formal attire for a princess at her wedding, and it is thought to have been less frequently used in the private sector due to its higher cost than goegye. The style of goegye appears to have been influenced by the susik, the highest formal attire for a queen, and in particular, the decorations on the circular top part of the susik were presumed to have been similarly reproduced in folk weddings. Goegye changed in various aspects according to the social environment and atmosphere of the times, and was also used as formal attire for a prince's wife.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.360-378
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• 2018

Noeui was a garment used for women's outfits and robes. In the late Joseon Dynasty it was a special garment that could only be worn by the class belonging to the royal family. Noeui was especially prepared as a wedding dress, and was worn by the bride at the Chinyeong ceremony on the day of the wedding ceremony. Until now, Noeui did not have in depth research at the costume history despite its importance as a royal costume in the Joseon Dynasty. Thus, based on Uigwe for the Royal Wedding Ceremony of King Injo and Queen Jangryeol (which is the only material with a diagram of Noeui and its pattern) this study historically investigated and restored the Noeui set of Queen Jangryeol, which was arranged in 1638, when King Injo and Queen Jangryeol were married. This academic study is the first to historically confirm and restore Queen Noeui's set, and rigorously analyze the historical materials as well as provide new comments on the shapes of Noeui's Git and the front side.