• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.1
• /
• pp.106-122
• /
• 2014

This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.2
• /
• pp.101-115
• /
• 2017

Ancient documents, characters, and relics are the utmost important materials when it comes to researching ancient clothing. Of these, the ancient characters explain the contents of the time, which makes it an objective historical record. China has hieroglyphics, such as oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which existed in Sang[Eun] Ju era. This character is formed by a simple line and detailed drawing, showing the object or the concrete form and characteristics, so the reader can understand the meaning. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script, which are written in pictograph, include contents that help to grasp the original shape and form of ancient official hats. Chinese characters Geon(巾, 건) Byun(㝸, 변) Myun(免, 면) Mo(冒, 모) Ju(冑, 주) and Kwan(冠, 관), which are the names of the official hats, have been researched, and Mi(美, 미) Ryung(令, 령) Wang(王, 왕) and Hwang(皇, 황), which are the characters related to the official hats, have been studied. Geon(巾, 건) switched its form from shape of material around waist to wraping wearer's head. Byun(㝸, 변) is a hat with decoration, and Myun(免, 면) is in form of a helmet with ornaments. Mo(冒, 모) in bone script looks like a hat with decorations on each sides, but in bronzeware script, it is more like a simple round hat Ju(冑, 주) covers one's head and has decorated ornaments, and The Kwan(冠, 관), which is now a common name of official hats, is not shown in oracle bone inscription or bronzeware script, It might have been used later than the other two types of hats. As for the related Chinese characters, Mi(美, 미) is in the shape of a feather decoration, Ryung(令, 령) is similar in shape to the letter 'A', and Wang(王, 왕) is in shape of simple hat from 령 with decorations. Hwang(皇, 황) is like a Wang(王, 왕) hat, but with fancier decorations. Oracle bone inscription and bronzeware script show the original form and shape of ancient hats.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
• /
• no.33
• /
• pp.253-278
• /
• 2008

Samkookyusa is a valuable book, which shows us ancestor's fomality, being folklorically highly evaluated. So I focus on this, look into Samkookyusa's formality especially the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Coming of age ceremony on Samkookyusa performed by a ruler or the nobilities whoes age are uncertainly assumed as thirteen, fifteen or eighteen. In the times, our own ways of ceremonies were performed by them. Marriage ceremony on Samkookyusa, especially king Sooro and Heohwangok's amrriage procedure shows a part of royal family's ceremony before Korea dynasty and have a precious meaning as the earliest outset. Through premarital relation between Yoohwa and Haemosoo shows that there was an non-arranged match for marriage. A record of a marriage between near relatives at the early Korea dynasty is worthy. The funeral ceremony record of king Hyeockgeose on Samkookyusa could be regarded as the first one. The record pointed that using a mound as feudal lords and king Talhae's funeral ceremony showed having Seagoljang customsand making a clay figure for the ceremony. Those facts are crucial documents as helping us understand our ancient time's funeral ceremonial customs. Ancestral ceremony on Samkookyusa, specific record about ancestral ceremony for king Sooro such as fomulas, procedures, ritual fields and foods, sanctuary and portrait is a worthful record to understand a side of national ancestral ceremony of the times. Samkookyusa is a valuable book ceremonially and folklorically to understand the ancient times' ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.47 no.2
• /
• pp.392-408
• /
• 2023

This study concerns the flower-shaped silver crown ornament and inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament of Baekje, which were worn frequently during the Sabi period. The purpose of this study is to present a new estimated shape of the crown and ornaments. Individual excavation cases and archaeological data were analyzed. The flower-shaped silver crown ornament appears as a thin silver plate with buds on the center and side branches and is symmetrically bent from the center to form a ∧ shape. The inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament resembles two right-angle triangles that are back-to-back. The crown to which the two ornaments were added appears to be a triangular crown that was made by covering birch bark of with fabric. Both ornaments were believed to have been located on the front of crown, but that is incorrect. The flower-shaped silver crown ornament was inserted on the front of the crown, and the inverted triangle-shaped crown ornament was fixed with a tip at the top of the crown and then obliquely on the crown's side. The inferred design was confirmed with real reproductions. This study is significant in that it identifies the crown of Baekje during the Sabi period.

• Journal of architectural history
• /
• v.3 no.2 s.6
• /
• pp.47-66
• /
• 1994

Chosun dynasty had accepted the Confucianism as a means of governing whole society and in its practical aspect ${\ulcorner}$Garye${\lrcorner}$ and the ceremonies of family ritual regarded as important. As a result, after mid-Chosun dynasty family ritual was begun to popularized on a national scale, and the socio-culture system which was interrelated with it changed into confucian ones. These fill-scaled change, on the other hand, resulted into the change of spatial use and plan type of yangban houses. In this aspect, this study intends to clarify the influence of family ritual on spatial use of yangban houses through the comparison between ideal pattern and behavioral one of family ritual. And this study made Gwanhonrye except Sangjerye an object because these two ceremonies were peformed in sucession in those day's behavior. The research setting is the Korean traditional society prior to modernization. The collected materials are based on ethnographic information as well as personal documents, public records, field works and the books on family ritual. The methodology for the present study is primarily based on the comparison study between available documents and field work. Especially, as the books on family ritual include some explanatory diagrams of the ideal pattern, these diagrams are compared with another ones made by the author of the behavioral pattern. The major findings are as follows. Firstly, in the aspect of Gwanhonrye's process, the ideal pattern is similar to the behavioral one. But even the essential course of the ideal pattern of Honrye is 'chinyoung', it has never been accepcted in Chosun dynasty on account of 'seoryubuga'. Secondly, even though the names of the performing space of family ritual are different each pattern, the methods of spatial use in processing these two ceremonies are similar. In other words, according to the books on family ritual the major performing spaces of Gwanhonrye are 'chungsa' and 'jungchim', but in practical process of both ceremonies 'sarangchae' and 'anche' are used. Lastly, as family ritual like Gwanrye and Honrye had been practiced at yangban houses after mid-Chosun dynasty as mentioned above, the spatial arrangement had to be changed to a certain extent.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
• /
• v.98
• /
• pp.22-53
• /
• 2020

This paper analyzes the contents, characteristics, and historical significance of the dedicatory inscriptions (josanggi) on the Amitabha Buddha and the Maitreya Bodhisattva statues of Gamsansa Temple, two masterpieces of Buddhist sculpture from the Unified Silla period. In the first section, I summarize research results from the past century (divided into four periods), before presenting a new perspective and methodology that questions the pre-existing notion that the Maitreya Bodhisattva has a higher rank than the Amitabha Buddha. In the second section, through my own analysis of the dedicatory inscriptions, arrangement, and overall appearance of the two images, I assert that the Amitabha Buddha sculpture actually held a higher rank and greater significance than the Maitreya Bodhisattva sculpture. In the third section, for the first time, I provide a new interpretation of two previously undeciphered characters from the inscriptions. In addition, by comparing the sentence structures from the respective inscriptions and revising the current understanding of the author (chanja) and calligrapher (seoja), I elucidate the possible meaning of some ambiguous phrases. Finally, in the fourth section, I reexamine the content of both inscriptions, differentiating between the parts relating to the patron (josangju), the dedication (josang), and the prayers of the patrons or donors (balwon). In particular, I argue that the phrase "for my deceased parents" is not merely a general axiom, but a specific reference. To summarize, the dedicatory inscriptions can be interpreted as follows: when Kim Jiseong's parents died, they were cremated and he scattered most of their remains by the East Sea. But years later, he regretted having no physical memorial of them to which to pay his respects. Thus, in his later years, he donated his estate on Gamsan as alms and led the construction of Gamsansa Temple. He then commissioned the production of the two stone sculptures of Amitabha Buddha and Maitreya Bodhisattva for the temple, asking that they be sculpted realistically to reflect the actual appearance of his parents. Finally, he enshrined the remains of his parents in the sculptures through the hole in the back of the head (jeonghyeol). The Maitreya Bodhisattva is a standing image with a nirmanakaya, or "transformation Buddha," on the crown. As various art historians have pointed out, this iconography is virtually unprecedented among Maitreya images in East Asian Buddhist sculpture, leading some to speculate that the standing image is actually the Avalokitesvara. However, anyone who reads the dedicatory inscription can have no doubt that this image is in fact the Maitreya. To ensure that the sculpture properly embodied his mother (who wished to be reborn in Tushita Heaven with Maitreya Bodhisattva), Kim Jiseong combined the iconography of the Maitreya and Avalokitesvara (the reincarnation of compassion). Hence, Kim Jiseong's deep love for his mother motivated him to modify the conventional iconography of the Maitreya and Avalokitesvara. A similar sentiment can be found in the sculpture of Amitabha Buddha. To this day, any visitor to the temple who first looks at the sculptures from the front before reading the text on the back will be deeply touched by the filial love of Kim Jiseong, who truly cherished the memory of his parents.