• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.283-291
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• 2020

추사는 우리 문화역사에서 진주와도 같다. 그의 불우했던 시대적인 환경이 그를 더욱 더 정진하게 하였으며, 이를 통하여 그의 예술은 찬란한 꽃을 피울 수 있었다. 그는 명문가에서 태어나 성장하고, 20대 약관의 시기에 이미 청조 문화의 당대 거장인 옹방강·완원과의 만남을 통하여 자신의 학문적 세계를 넓게 확립할 수 있었다. 특히 그가 유배생활을 했던 적거지(謫居地)에서의 서예술활동은 추사체를 확립할 수 있게 하였다. 또한, 세한도를 그림으로서 그의 문인 정신의 진수를 보여주었다. 수많은 서신을 통하여 그의 문화·예술·사상도 살펴볼 수 있다. 나아가 청대의 고증학을 바탕으로 실사구시의 사상과 철학도 살펴볼 수 있다. 본고는 추사의 문인예술에 대한 심미안(審美眼)을 세한도(歲寒圖)·불작난도(不作蘭圖) 등을 통하여 정신성 측면에서 고찰하여 보고자 한다. 이는 추사 예술의 본질이 되는 심미안이라고 판단되기 때문이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권8호
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• pp.991-1005
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• 2011

This study researches the historical production, process, and design method for 3 pairs of corsets in $18^{th}$ century France. In the analytical stage of historical materials, it grasped the kind, form, origin, and change in style through a lexical definition of relevant terms. Through a precedent study on Garsault's 'L'art du tailleur', preservation costume, and historical reconstruction of pattern in preservation costume, it confirmed corps size, silhouette, pattern form, and material for historical production. The sewing method and the producing sequence were analyzed. In the production stage, 3 selective models in corps plein baleine, corps demi-baleine, and corset were historically produced. With neckline of forming broad Letter U, the bust part is covered roundly. The bodice was composed of 10 panels based on the corps form in the mid-$18^{th}$ century of following a curve of a human body. A shoulder strap was allowed to make the arm movement comfortable by producing and attaching it separately. The cutting line except the center in the front and the back of vertical line was distributed according to the natural flow of a form and movement of the human body. The curve-based pattern line was confirmed.

• 복식
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• 제66권7호
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• pp.171-191
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• 2016

Lady Han, Gongshin-buin(恭愼夫人韓氏: 1410~1483) was Gongnyeo of Ming emperor and sister of Han Hwak(韓確:1400~1456). The aim of this study is to analyze the characteristic of costume presents for Lady Han, and to investigate a part of Joseon women's attire in the 15th century. Most of the presents for Lady Han were native products of Joseon to help alleviate her homsickness, but surviving relics are very rare. The costume-related presents included daily accessories and fabrics such as natural ornaments, embroidered pouch, needle case, wig, wooden comb, portable knife with multi-blades, various colored plain silk [綿紬] and ramie. Also, preceding research analysis of costume relic were combined with study of presents for Lady Han's. The most salient costume of Joseon women in the 15th century was the symmetric collared jacket. In addition, ornamented jeogori, pouch with pine nut stitch, chima, jangot, jangsam, black veil[羅兀] made with ra or jeung, glass beads, paintings of Ming and Joseon can be references. Illustrations show 6 representative type of Joseon women's full attires in the 15th century are as follows. First, is a combination of 'symmetric collared jacket with peacock rank badge, jeoksam, chima, underwear' and 'hoa-a, janga-a, embroidered pouch, needle case, knife with multi-blades: presents for Lady Han'. Second, formal wear focusing on symmetric collared Jacket of cloud pattern. Third, formal wear focusing on multicolor ornamented jeogori. Fourth, town wear with jangot and neoul. Fifth, formal wear with jangsam. Sixth, daily wear focusing on banbi with symmetric squre collar. Accessories and underwear shown in another illustration were same as the first illustration. Results of this study can be used as content for making historically accutate costumes as well as costume education.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.460-466
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• 2011

감은사는 첨성대가 건축되고 46년 후 서력 682년에 세워진 신라시대 사찰로 현재는 금당터와 석탑 및 각종 석조 유물로 전해지고 있다. 본 논문에서는 1959년 1차 발굴 때 감은사지 금당터의 동편에서 발견된 동편 태극 장대석과 2차 발굴 때 감은사지 남편 연못에서 발견되어 1993년 인위적으로 서편에 배치된 서편 태극 장대석에 대한 과학적 의미를 파악하기 위하여 유물에 각인된 도형의 기하학적 분석을 한다. 그리하여 감은사지 태극 장대석이 의미하는 수학적, 천문학적인 도형의 현대적 해석을 통하여 당시의 과학 수준을 가늠할 중요한 척도를 얻게 되었다. 또한 동편 및 서편 태극 장대석이 나타내는 이등변삼각형들의 배치가 각각 해와 달과 관련된 책력과 연관함을 추론하게 된다. 이러한 엄밀한 수학적 개념 조사를 통하여 역사적 사실이 빈약한 오래된 역사적 구조물을 이해하고 고증하는데 새로운 연구 방향을 제시해준다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.11-24
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• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1322-1331
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to design an official costume of Joseon Ginyeo in the scholar’s banquet in 16th century, thereby making correct historical animation, drama costumes, and various costume contents. Every Ginyeo in and wore a long yellow coat with short front edge. 'Dan-ei', Ginyeo’s court costume, had very similar shape except color and collar, therefore the size of Dan-ei was adapted to design a yellow coat for drama actress. Ginyeo’s Jogori in these paintings was wide and long enough to cover undervelly under the edge of yellow coat, but It was designed more slim and long for better appearence and comfortable movement in my work. A skirt of Ginyeo was designed with circumference of about 360cm and length of about 105cm according as a skirt style of Joseon ladies in 16th century. Ginyeo's Jam(hairpin) was consist of a vase, a plum blossom, and a lotus pattern. And, a wide underpants with a single suspender, portable pouch, Un-hae(women’s shoes) with low heel are needed for drama actress in the role of Ginyeo. In this design, it is very important to save an estimate and time, select suitable mordern fabrics, reform discomportable points, express a charater’s role, and make a trendy appearence.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.691-703
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• 2013

The costume culture of ladies in late Goryeo is an important and rare source for cultural fashion souvenir design. This study investigates the historical costume design sources of late Goryeo to suggest high quality traditional and practical ornament souvenir designs for female dolls as well as examples of coordination with doll costumes. The costume culture of late Goryeo contained golden Buddhism and a revival of $12^{th}$ century Goryeo costume characteristic after the period of Mongolian influences from the Yuan. The main sources for doll ornament designs are $14^{th}$ century Buddhist paintings, a few ornament relics of Goryeo, ancient literature, and portraits of ladies in the $14^{th}$ century that originated from five doll's traditional ornaments (lotus hairpin, cloud-shaped hairpin, Buddhist flower hair ornament, vase-shaped Binyeo, and bell of animalhuman face) and three wig designs (wigs from Buddhist paintings and portraits, and hairpiece) with bleached gilding silver, silk, various gemstones and synthetic hair. These doll ornament and wig designs imply the symbol of Buddhism, exorcism, and costume culture of $14^{th}$ century Goryeo ladies that can be matched with two doll gowns, half-sleeved jacket, skirt, two Jogoris, apron, under trousers as formal, semi-formal, and town-wear according to the T.P.O of late Goryeo; in addition, five ornaments can be used as owner's ornaments. The partial changing colors and materials due to the characteristics of doll ornament goods as well as better communication between researcher and constructor remain to be improved.

• 대한한방부인과학회지
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• 제19권1호
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• pp.139-154
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• 2006

Objective : This experimental study was carried out to investigate anti-coagulation effects and mechanism of Hongdeung-tang on the dissentimenated intravascular coagulation Methods : Each 10 rats were classified as normal gorup, control group and treated group. The control group was given a 0.5mg/ml endotoxin intra-vein injection and was occurred Disseminated Intravascular Coagulation(DIC). The treated group were orally administrated 1ml Hongdeung-tang concentration once a day for 6 days and then it was treated the same as the control group. We took the blood from heart and were investigated number of Platelet and white blood cell(WBC), fibrinogen concentration, prothrombin time(PT), activated partial thromboplastin time(APTT), interleukin-6(IL-6), Tumor Necrosis $Factor-{\alpha}(TNF-{\alpha})$, Prostaglandin $E2(PGE_2)$ from them. Results : There were a statistically significant increase of platelet and fibrinogen concentration in the treated group compared to the treated group. The PT was a significantly reduced in treated group compared to the control group. There was no significant change in numbers of WBC and APTT between control and treated group. On the contrary, the number of PT, IL-6, $TNF-{\alpha}$, $PGE_2$ were significantly decreased in treated group compared to the control group. Conclusion : DIC which was occurred by endotoxin intravenous injection seems to related to the increase of IL-6, $TNF-{\alpha}$, $PGE_2$ and Hongdeung-tang has an effect that supress those factors. we can assume Hongdeung-tang has an anti-coagulation effect by those supressing effect.

• 트랜스-
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• 제3권
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• pp.137-162
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• 2017

벨기에 출신의 영화감독 제라르 꼬르비오의 영화 <왕의 춤>은 17세기 프랑스의 궁중을 배경으로 루이 14세가 어떻게 강력한 절대군주, 태양왕 루이 14세로 거듭나는 과정을 실존했던 예술가들의 활동을 통해서 보여주는 작품이다. 영화는 바로크시대의 예술 애호가였던 루이 14세가 예술을 어떻게 즐기고 권력의 수단으로 사용했는가를 흥미롭게 보여주고 있다. 하지만 영화가 그리고 있는 모습은 역사적 사실과는 맞지 않는 부분도 상당히 많다. 본 연구는 영화가 묘사하는 당시의 예술계와 역사적으로 고증된 예술계를 비교하면서, 과연 영화가 말하고자 한 진짜 목표가 무엇인지를 찾아내려 한다. 언뜻 영화는 루이 14세에 대한 영화로 소개되는 듯하다. 하지만 보다 자유로운 시선으로 바라본다면, 이 영화는 루이 14세의 총애를 받던 궁정 음악가 장 바티스트 륄리의 관점에서 그려진다는 사실을 발견하게 된다. 이를 통해 제라르 꼬르비오는 당시 예술과 예술가들의 모습을 한 예술가의 시선으로 바라보며 그리려 했다. 그리고 륄리에 비견되어지는 극작가 몰리에르의 모습 또한 영화에서 잘 활용되고 있다. 왕의 총애를 받았으며, 지금도 위대한 극작가로 평가되는 몰리에르가 영화에서는 지금과 같은 평가를 기대하기 힘든 인물로 그리고 있다. 그의 문학적 업적으로 높이 평가받는 혁신적이고 진보적인 모습은 영화에서 찾아볼 수 없다. 이 두 예술가의 비교는 영화가 사용하는 예술적 이미지의 핵심이 '아이러니'란 점을 기억 할 필요가 있다. 영화는 '태양왕'의 이미지를 통해 루이 14세가 감추려 한 내면적 고통을 묘사하고, 이와 동시에 댄스 장면을 통해 루이 14세의 압도적인 예술을 향한 애정의 관점을 그려낸다. 이처럼 영화 <왕의 춤>이 사용한 화려한 미장센의 양면성을 본 연구는 '예술'이라는 매개물을 통해 17세기를 들여다보는 아이러니한 장치로써 접근한다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권2호
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• pp.113-136
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• 2000

Problems and improvemental measures for the historical inquiry of TV drama costumes and for the reproduction of them were investigated. For this study, the MBC historical drama 'The way of the Great King' started on march 24 in 1998 and ended on september 26 in 1998 was selected as the subject. The reasons why the drama was selected are as follows. First, the historical background was the time of King Young ＆ drama introduced various kinds of costumes Joungjo, which is the starting era of traditional costumes peculiar to Korea. Second, the based on the historical inquiry of that time. There is a limitation in the process of historical inquiry about the costumes of that time because we don't have enough research data such as relics, remains, references, literary works, pictures, etc. Although, in some cases, exact historical inquiry about the costumes were made, they could not be reproduced in the original forms due to several reasons: the absence of the materials of that time, structural changes including length and size for convenience of action, alterations of the manufacturing method for the reuse, addition of the gorgeous and various olors for the enhancement of image quality, variations in colors according to the actor's character, modulations of the structures and colors by the producer's intention, and the restraints in time and money for manufacturing. In view of these situations, it seems to be difficult for us to settle the problems occurring between the historical inquiry about the traditional costumes and the reproduction of them in drama. However, the costumes presented in historical drama have the meanings to provide informations of that time with TV audience. Therefore I think that it is necessary to narrow the gap between the historical inquiry of TV drama costumes and for the reproduction of hem, First, It should be restrained that each broadcasting stations show the costumes under the similar situations of the same age in different ways. Second, We need to unify the inquiry systems concerning historical drama costumes, In addition to this, it is also necessary for broadcasting stations to establish internet sites of traditional costumes for communication.