• 제목/요약/키워드: 감춤의 미

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종교복식의 조형적 보편성에 관한 연구 -고등종교의 종교복식을 중심으로- (A Study on the Figurative Universality of Religious Costume -Centering on the Religious Costume of High Religions-)

  • 서봉하
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제33권6호
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    • pp.958-967
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    • 2009
  • 세계의 여러 종교들은 각기 다른 믿음체계를 바탕으로 다양한 체계를 갖추고 있으며, 종교적 의미의 표현인 종교복식 역시 종교별로 각기 다른 형식을 띠고 있다. 그러나 본 연구는 인류의 다양한 종교복식에서 나타나는 보편적 특징을 연구하는데 목적이 있다. 종교는 그 범위가 불분명하고, 연구의 한계성이 분명하므로 본 연구에서는 세계 4대 고등종교를 대상으로 연구한다. 본 연구의 목적은 첫째, 세계 고등종교에 대한 고찰, 둘째, 종교복식에 나타난 조형적 특징 연구, 셋째, 종교복식에 나타난 보편적 조형미와 미적가치에 대한 연구 및 논의 등이다. 세계 4대 고등종교의 종교복식에는 조형적 보편성이 존재한다. 첫째, 구성과 형태, 착장법 등에서의 비구조적 특징, 둘째, 인체를 감싸는 풍성한 실루엣, 셋째, 장식의 절제와 억제, 넷째, 무채색계열의 선호와 모노톤의 특징 등이다. 종교복식의 보편적 미적가치로는 종교적 절대성과 정숙성 등으로 인한 '감춤의 미', 장식이나 문양 등의 억제와 단조로운 색상 등에서 '절제의 미' 그리고 드레이퍼리와 비구조적인 특징에서는 '자연의 미'가 나타난다. 인간은 종교를 통해 본질적인 것을 추구하고 인체를 은폐함으로써 신성한 것과 접촉하려고 한다. 종교복식은 초자연적 타계와 믿음에 대한 표현이며, 의식의례 행위이다. 각 종교의 종교복식은 물론 종교의 영향을 받은 복식에도 이러한 감춤과 절제의 형식들이 고스란히 반영되어 있다.

종교의 영향을 받은 동아시아 복식미의 연구 - 불교.도교.유교를 중심으로 - (A Study on East Asian Costume Beauty, Affected by Religion - Focusing on Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism -)

  • 서봉하;김민자
    • 복식
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    • 제58권2호
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    • pp.93-106
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    • 2008
  • Asia Folk Costumes are certainly different from the Western Costumes. This distinction is based upon the effect of environment, technology, and social structure, and especially, which was generated by religion, ideology, and philosophy. The ideas of fundamental ground of this eastern features are religions such as Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. The religion of the East has determined the form of traditional costumes, affecting the costume up to now. This study aims at the investigation of the effect of religion on the formation of East Asia Traditional Costumes around Korea, China, and Japan and its figurative beauty. Study was carried out by chiefly referring to literatures. Eastern Aesthetics was formed by accepting aesthetic concepts, acquired from the idea of Three Religions. Especially, the ideas of non-duality(不二), emptiness(空), five aggregates(五蘊), mind control(心法), derived by Buddhism, and nature theory(自然論) and creationism(創造論) of Taoism, and abstinence theory(節制論) and decorum(禮法) and the principles of Yin and Yang(陰陽) of confucianism have had great effect on the aesthetics of costume. The figurative features of costume, affected by three religions are described by the factors; First, non structural feature, second, the beauty of abstinence and chastity of ample silhouette, third, the feature of natural color and achromatic color, fourth, the figurative feature of costume by the principles of Yin and Yang, and fifth, bright ornaments. The aesthetic values of the East Asia Costume are 'A Beauty of Vacancy', 'A Beauty of Concealment', 'A Beauty of Nature', and 'A Beauty of Symbolism'. As philosophy, culture, and ethnics itself, the religions of Asia have had effect on the overall culture, which is inclusive of social structure, as well as art and aesthetics, and have decided the style of costume.

불이[不二] 사상에 영향을 받은 전통복식의 조형미 (The Aesthetics of Korean Traditional Costume Affected by Non-Dualistic Theory of Buddhism)

  • 서봉하;김민자
    • 복식
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    • 제57권3호
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    • pp.165-175
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    • 2007
  • Religion affects all the dimension of human beings, and at the same time it forms one dimension of human beings. Costume Is considered as a result that reflects the phases of the time and the characteristics of a wearer. Costume, also, has been influenced by religion that has led one's belief, social spirit and culture for a long period of time. The Eastern aesthetics has expanded the area of thoughts with the concepts that originated from Buddhism, Taoism, and Confucianism. Among the concepts, Non-Dualistic Theory is the core idea of Buddhism.'rho theory contains the moaning that one should not lean to one side between existence and nonexistence and should not be obsessed with the center. It was the most powerful Buddhistic idea that had an influence on Asian aesthetics. Korean traditional costume is not an exception. This study has a significance that it was conducted to understand the relation between religious principle and traditional custom through mainly using documentary records. The formative characteristics of Korean traditional costume influenced by Non-Dualistic Theory ran be summarized as non-structure like, indeterminate forms, amorphousness and anti-decoration such as plainness, temperance and achromatic color. Aesthetic value was expressed through 'the aesthetic of emptiness', 'the aesthetic of hiding', and 'the aesthetic of nature'. Although the appearance of a religious symbol can change, an essential element in religion lasts as human society remains. Although our clothing culture has converted to western style, Korean traditional aesthetics is placed deep inside of 'the Koreans' spirit and has a consistent effect on our overall culture of clothing.

힌두 사상에 영향을 받은 인도 무봉의(無縫衣)의 조형미 (The Aesthetics of Indian Unstitched Costumes Affected by Hinduism)

  • 서봉하;김민자
    • 복식
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    • 제57권10호
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    • pp.129-141
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    • 2007
  • In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

아시안 에스닉 룩의 조형성과 미적가치에 판한 연구 (The Research of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look)

  • 권하진;김민자
    • 복식
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    • 제56권6호
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    • pp.114-131
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    • 2006
  • An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.