• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.47-65
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to derive the future-oriented characteristics Sonia Delaunay presented at the time based on the identity and modernity shown in her works and diverse activity. The scope of study spans from 1907 to the start of World War II and includes both applied and fine arts, with a focus on textiles and fashion. The research method is a literary study that includes old documents, exhibition booklets, and explanations from museum curators. The visual materials are actual works observed at exhibitions and digital images of various exhibitions. As a result of the research, she was a practitioner who expressed her identity in marriage, artwork, textiles, and fashion. In order to embody her design and express modernity, she showed geometric and modern motifs and she incorporated a sense of bright color and modernized light into her work by following the principle of simultaneous contrast in color. Additionally, she applied Hungarian embroidery techniques to simple materials and created geometric abstraction with her simultaneous colors, which contributed to both originality and the mass production of textile design. The future-oriented characteristics she presented are the dynamism of modern rhythm, the expansion of convergence and collaboration, the innovation of new production and exhibition, the media of consumer society, and the femininity of modern life. She recognized the mass consumer society and mass production of the early 20th century and actively utilized various media and genres to evoke a dynamic sense necessary for modern life and presented a design to be seen as a modern woman.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.513-524
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to trace the development of Chintz pattern design through fashion history, and to focus on its application in modern times with special emphasis on filtered Chintz patterns. Chintz patterns use such motives as tree, animal, bird, and geometrical shapes, etc.. It reached the peak of its popularity with William Morris. His influence continued from the end of the 19th century through to the 20th century. Modern Chintz designs have been modified and diversified in different cultures through time, and such diversification & changes can be easily found in modern fashion. From previous studies and other related sources, we found that Chintz patterns were revived in modern fashion trends with some modification. We also discovered the importance of chintz pattern designs in ethnic and retro trends. Thus in conclusion, this study revealed the significance, flexibility, and lasting popularity of Chintz pattern designs in fashion history.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.37-52
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• 2011

The purpose of this thesis is to study how Physical Distortion has been developed on the fashion from a surrealistic point of view and how it could be contributed to development of clothing design. This body distortion phenomenon has been started from primitivism times and it is still going on with various ways. Each era's distortion has been changed due to social cultural and environment matters. Especially influences of surrealism on the 20th century art transcended the limit of thought. Since appearance of surrealism 21th century fashion design has been opened up for new possibilities. There are no stereotypes no boundaries and our society is getting increasingly diversified. People in those society is longing to have another esthetic requirements. Also surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion has been produced unique design with new technology and new material. Physical distortion in fashion possess an infinite possibilities that could concoct the most amazing clothes. Also it has another strong potential that conducting us the way to produce design in novel ways. There is no doubt that surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion is absolute necessity to continue on evolution of clothing design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.55-72
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is for consideration of the flapper fashion (1924-1928) in Jazz Age (1919-1929) of America and the influences of it on modern fashion. This study is started from the latest fashion trend which is pursuing it's inspiration into the Jazz Age, the 20s. The etimology of 'flapper' was based on mines is 'flap' such as 'flutter of skirt hemline', 'hands', 'arms', 'wings' and a slang which was applied to young women from 1830. In 20th century it has meant not only new American women but also their fashion and attitude. The designs of flapper fashion were expressed by simplicity, functionality, nudity and rhythm. Simplicity was the best value of this time and the simple image was considered the smartest. Functionality was represented by straight boyish style and loose baggy silhouette that was related to free dome. Nudity was expressed by revealing of legs, arms, backs in shapes and see-through by materials. It was related to sexual attraction and point to youth. Rhythm of flapper fashion expressed optical effect of movement. Using of light material was deep related to freedom of flappers, speed, rhythmical Jazz and dancing. The influences of flapper fashion were giving an opportunity that changed fashion leader from high class to young popular group and simple design of flapper fashion effected to modernization and popularization of American apparel business. And it influenced American casual fashion which was known as brightness, youth and openhearted mood. So flapper fashion can be reganded as the starting point of the street fashion of the 20th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.69-86
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• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.89-102
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• 2004

Modern society is age of sports just as health and leisure became dominant concern, which has caused the fixation and development to sports wear considered as fashion for everyday dress. This paper focused on the development process and aesthetic characteristics of knit design expressed in the 20th century sports wear. The importance and direction of knit design in modern sports wear is expected. Style, items, fabrics, colors, details and top designers were analyzed in sports wear from the 1910' s to 1990' s. Sports wear can be categorized into two of the active sports wear and spectator sports wear. Since disappearance of division between ordinary wear and sports fashion in the 1970' s, the functional wear of leggings, cycle shorts, exercise clothes, leotard, and leg warmer appeared. Vicennial developments of synthetic fibers and new fabrics have caused the great changes in knit design. Colors were vivid in the 1950' s, metallic in the 1970' s and neon in the 1990' s. Sportive sense was expressed by various details. The dominant knit designers who expressed aesthetic characteristics to sports wear were Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, Balenciaga, Andre Courrege, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Giogio Armani.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.6
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• pp.176-191
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• 2014

This article focuses on the late 19th to early 20th century gat, the Korean top hat for men, to understand the diverse meanings behind the hat. During the late 19th to early 20th century, the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910) was plunged into confusion and turmoil as it was nearing its end. It was a period of drastic changes in regards to philosophy and ideology. To that end, the hats of society mirrored such changing times, as well as the differences in the awareness of Joseon's internal subject entities and external observers. Based on the analyses of the relevant documents, this study takes a multi-faceted approach to the process in which traditional Korean hats, which were once a symbol of the Joseon civilization, became reduced to an outdated object, as well as observing the awareness and attitudes of the entities involved in such a pivotal process.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.109-126
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressional characteristics of the machine aesthetics in the fashion design. First, this study was started from analyzing mechanical beauty represented on the early 20th century art style. Machine aesthetics has influenced on the art and fashion design from modern to now. Futurism was grounded in the complete renewal of human sensibility brought about by the great discoveries of science. Especially, Russia avant-garde was inspired by the Futurism, that is Rayonism, Constructivism, Suprematism. Kasimir Malevich moved on immediately to purely abstract paintings of which the first was a black square on a white canvas. He had begun the art he called 'Suprematism'. Malevich's geometry was funded on the straight line, the supremely elemental form which symbolized man's ascendancy over the chaos of nature. The square was the basic suprematist element and was a repudiation of the world of appearances, and of past art. He repudiated any marriage of convenience between the artist and the engineer. Vladimir Tatlin made some of the most revolutionary works of modern art, these were the first works to be called 'construction'. Constructivists believed that the essential conditions of the machine and the consciousness of man inevitably create an aesthetic which would reflect their time. They eulogized simple shapes. That believed that buildings and objects should be freed from the ornamental excrescences and the accumulated barnacles of past art. Consequently, under the theoretical background, the result is as follows. First, The functional formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a geometrical silhouette, construction line, non-ornamental construction, simple color in the 20th century design. Second, The mechanical formativeness of machine aesthetics was expressed as a construction of new material-iron, aluminium, plastic, glass-, geometrical form of material in he 20th century design. That is, machine beauty has more concerned with the expressional ideology of the art style and the formativeness of fashion design by silhouette, construction line, material, form.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.9
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• pp.1308-1319
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• 2002

The purpose of this is to analyze the aesthetics characteristics of our modern sports fashion, and thereby, discuss them in the light of the overall mentality or the 20th century, and thus, present the conditions or sports fashion design meeting modem people's divers aesthetics values and desired. Modern sports fashion sues can be categorized into futurist sports style, erotic sports style and American sheet sports style. And the 20th century mentality characterized by changes of lifestyle, identity and aspiration has influenced the aesthetic features of such sports fashion sues, which can be summed up as follows; first, the futurist sports style applies the functional items and details of active sportswear to design, while heralding a positive and hopeful message of technology and future by using the material of hi-tech functions and senses. This sports style was affected much by shift from social status, attraction and wealth to demonstration of state-of-the-art science, pursuit of functionality in terms of shapes and materials, convenience through See combinations of sportswear items or design elements. Second, the erotic sports style based on minimalism attempted to express the erotic body beauty indirectly by exposing some parts of body or using the material pressed against the body. This sports style was closely related with the changes of sexual identity such as neutral sexualism, bi-sexualism and homo-sexualism. Lastly, the American street sports style was born from black Americarns' sports and dances. This spors style pursues “youth” beyond TPO concept As mass media and commercial sports developed, the young generation copied sports stars' uniforms or fashions to share honor, wealth and youth with them. In sort, the American sheet sports style was affected much by the so-called “heroism”. Such a changed object of aspiration influenced the aesthetic characteristics of American shot sports style directly.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2004

Pop art, an artistic trend which was actively popular centering around popularization of America in the 1960's, appears as punk style in the 1970's and as one of diversified style in the 1980's, and have co-existed in the third culture and pluralistic combination since the 1990's. The image of pop art includes complexity, familiarity and popularity as well as extension of media, and so directly influences the fashion in the end of the 20th century. Especially, sportslook show up by the virtue of rising lower cultural area such as street fashion becoming influential and change in life style, which was recreated as clothes by developing characteristics of design including style, details and colors showed in active sports wear. This study is aimed to ana analyze the image of pop art showed again in the modern fashion in the end of the 20th century and graffiti-art which was well known to the general public after the 1980's. Through this analysis, I will study characteristics of pop art showed in sportslook which is the mainstream in modern fashion and graffiti of Keith Haring. Consequently, I suggested a functional, esthetic and future-oriented sports look design which comprises the image of the graffiti-art of Keith Haring by using Design CAD(photoshop & primavision) enabling to attempt variously and to derive quickly the output of design and textile.