• Title/Summary/Keyword: "There Was a Queen"

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Overview on the Use of Gyeongokgo in the Royal Family of King Sukjong and Gyeongjong (숙종-경종 대 왕실에서의 경옥고 활용에 대한 고찰)

  • Won Nam Kim;Ki Bong Kim;Jun Yong Choi;Ki Tae Ha
    • Herbal Formula Science
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    • v.32 no.3
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    • pp.345-364
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    • 2024
  • Objectives : Gyeongokgo is a representative herbal formula for longevity in Korean medicine and has been applied to prevent and treat various diseases. Gyeongokgo is recognized as a representative tonic for the Joseon royal family. However, there is yet no legitimate research on how the royal family used Gyeongokgo. The present study aims to analyze Gyeongokgo during the reign of King Sukjong and Gyeongjong with historical records. Methods : Historical records were searched through databases such as the veritable records of the Joseon Dynasty and the daily records of royal secretariat of Joseon Dynasty. Results : During the reign of King Myeongjong, the administration of Gyeongokgo started and expanded to the entire royal family, including the king, queen, and queen mother, by King Sukjong. In the early stage, Gyeongokgo was taken to treat coughing or breathing difficulties. Gradually it was recognized as agood tonic for replenishing energy and blood. Conclusions : The tendency to prefer tonic in the late Joseon Dynasty started during the reign of King Sukjong, and Gyeongokgo began to be used as a seasonal tonic in the fall and winter even though no symptoms appear.

Color Rank System of the Court Wonsam of Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 궁중 원삼의 신분별 색상 연구)

  • Park, Hyun-Jung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.10
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    • pp.1552-1563
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    • 2009
  • This paper investigates the color rank system of the Wonsam, ceremonial topcoat, worn as a court formal costume of the Joseon dynasty by analyzing the court costume system and the actual examples of wearing. The research shows that there were some discrepancies of the color rank of the Wonsam between the court costume system and the actual wearing examples. There were red, purple, blue, green, and black Wonsam in the Joseon dynasty. The color rank of the Wonsam is as follows: the Queen's color was red, the Crown Princess's was green and purple, the royal concubine's was usually green and blue, but they could wear purple when they won the King's favor. A prince's wife's was usually green, but she wore blue and purple if she became the mother of the King. The princess's was green, and the court lady's was green, blue, and black. In most cases, the textiles of Wonsam were made by silk with patterns, even though Joseon dynasty was ordered to use silks without patterns in court weddings and funeral ceremonies to avoid extravagance.

A Study of Double-Layered Dangui I - Focusing on the Remains of Double-Layered Dangui - (두벌당의(唐衣)에 관한 연구 I - 겹당의 유물을 중심으로 -)

  • Ku, Nam-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.9
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    • pp.87-96
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    • 2009
  • Dangui is a formal dress of the wives of high officers and royalty in Chosun Dynasty and it was worn as a day dress in palace and a semi-ceremonial dress in upper-class households. Among the remains of Dangui a double-layered Dangui was found in which two sets of Dangui were combined to be worn as a single piece. The double-layered Dangui consists of an Over-Dangui and an Under-Dangui. The results of the examination of the remains for the Over-Dangui are as follows. As lone as the colors of the remains are identifiable, all of the Over-Dangui were green, whereas the Under-Dangui and lining materials were red. The textile was mostly in woven silk with pattern and it was frequently decorated with golden wefts or foils. A breast embroidery with phoenix and a dragon embroidery were also found. Such Dangui was worn mostly by the high members of the king's palace including the queen, crown princess, bastard princess, and monarch. There were two exceptions of wearing Dangui outside the king's palace. A simple Under-Dangui was made to enable a comfort fit of the two sets of Dangui and the suture was partially sewn. With three doth strings and cuffs, two pieces of Dangui were eventually assembled into one piece of clothing. Differences between the remains and the documents were also found in regards to textile and wearers of Dangui.

A Study on the Symbolism of the Number Expressed in Korean Costume (한국 복식에 나타난 수의 상징성)

  • 강윤숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.7
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    • pp.113-127
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    • 2000
  • The purpose of this study was to examine the symbolic meaning of oriental numbers based on Yin-Yang(陰陽) theory. Based on the thought of Yin-Yang Wu-Hsing(陰陽五行), the number was divided the number of the heaven (positive number) 1, 3. 5, 7, 9 from the number cf the earth(negative number) 2. 4, 6, 8, 10. It was descrived very well in the dress and its ornaments and the folk customs. In the costume of the Court, there were 9, 7, 5, 3 patterns costume for the king and queen. Even though an even number, 12 patterns costume for the emperor symbolized 12 months and made it of the principal of the universe. Korean traditional costume Han-bock(韓服) was formed with the three dimentional principal of circle (圓.$\bigcirc$), square(方.$\square$) and triangularity(角.$\Delta$). In the middle of odd numbers, number 3 was regarded as a holy number of the heaven (天), the earth(地) and a man(人). Taken for a highest number. number 3 had the symbolism of wishes for good fortune. Number 10 and number 100, which meant the fullness and the long life, were used regularly. With Ten longevity patterns(十長生紋), the feast of a hundred-day-old baby, our race prayed for the healthy long life. As mentioned above. the symbolism of the number though the costume prefered the positive number to the negative one. Accommodating to the universal principal and the cycle. The deep meaning and the symbolism of the number has been implied the mental wishes.

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A Study on the Costume in Classical Novel 'Shimchungjun' II- Focusing on the Woman's Costume - (소설 '심청전'에 대한 복식 연구 II- 여자 복식을 중심으로 -)

  • 김문자;이수정
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.12 no.3
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    • pp.455-467
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in classical novel 'Shimchungjun' focusing on the woman's costume through the antique records and tombs bequests. Titled ladies for royal family put on 'Wooimkyoryong' and 'Sungun' as a petticoat when the ladies of Song period rode on horses. The underskirt played a part to swell a skirt for ladies. 'Bakjueui' and 'Hwangsangi' were ordinary clothes ranging from ladies of loyal family to women. The red color was limited to royal family. The ordinary clothes of women were white ramie clothes commonly and floral patterned clothes were prohibited to the ordinary clothes for women. 'Ko', a breast-tie (breast ribbon) of a Korean coat, was made of silk and women wear as an outer garment. The common people will wear 'Ko' of white ramie clothes which was very active items. The ladies of royal family and women put on shoes made of white ramie clothes, but the full dress of queen wore blue boots made of leather. The noble women wore 'Suk'(boots) made of deer skin and common people wore straw shoes regardless of gender and age. Sometimes they wore 'Woopihye' made of cowhide. In the first of Koryo era, the styles of dress were consisted of 'Monso', 'Eui', 'Po', 'Dae', 'Koh', 'Sang', 'Sungkun' and 'Kangnang'. The structure of costume for women made little difference and there was a great difference with decoration.

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A Study on Symbolism of Dongjo in Royal Palaces of Choseon Dynasty and Its Way of Operation - Focusing on Donggwol in 17th-18th century - (조선 궁궐, 동조(東朝)의 상징성과 $17{\sim}18$세기 대비전 조영에 관한 연구)

  • Cho, Ok-Yon
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.16 no.6
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    • pp.67-86
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    • 2007
  • Choseon Dynasty, from many aspects, saw the institutional establishment of its royal palaces in the 17th and 18th century, with 'donggwol (east palace)' as the most representative form in the era. In that period, palaces were managed in the best way that fits the royal etiquette and order to maintain the Confucian framework of the times. While the royal palace was the place for the king to conduct state affairs, it was also a compound for the royal family to lead a life in. Since the royal family was also based on the Confucian system, women in the royal palace seldom revealed their existence to outside world. Yet daebi,(a Queen Mother) who was often called 'dongjo,' enjoyed the highest level of honor not only as a member of the royal family but in the hierarchical order of the dynasty. As they often engaged themselves in political affairs, daebi raised their reputation through rites and rituals. So, in the 16th century, they largely used Changgyeong-gung palace in the eastern part of the royal compound since they sometimes had to go out of the royal residence. While it was called 'dongjo' because it was seated in the eastern part, it was also used as a word symbolizing daebi. And, therefore, it has become a general principle of royal palaces to build the palace for daebi in the eastern wing of the compound. However, the residence for daebi was not always built in the eastern part in the 17th and 18th century and, instead, edifices for daebi were sometimes erected in several points within the royal compound. Beside, daebi's residence in this period had additional spaces for ceremonies since they had a number of official events there. Construction of daebi's residences in this era was not confined to the symbolic institutions and they became the peculiar palaces with specific characteristics for official ceremonies of the queen mothers. Consequently, it could be said that the architectural style of dongjo, which was the place of the supreme female in the hierarchical order, stemmed from donggwol where daebi spent the longest time of the royal life.

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Semantic Interpretation of the Name "Cheomseongdae" (첨성대 이름의 의미 해석)

  • Chang, Hwalsik
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.53 no.4
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    • pp.2-31
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    • 2020
  • CheomSeongDae (瞻星臺) is a stone structure built in Gyeongju, the former Silla Dynasty capital, during the reign of Queen Seondeok (632~647AD). There exist dozens of hypotheses regarding its original purpose. Depending on to whom you ask, the answer could be a celestial observatory, a religious altar, a Buddhist stupa, a monumental tower symbolizing scientific knowledge, and so on. The most common perception of the structure among lay people is a stargazing tower. Historians, however, have suggested that it was intended as "a gateway to the heavens", specifically the Trāyastriṃśa or the second of the six heavens of Kāmadhātu located on the top of Mountain Sumeru. The name "Cheom-seong-dae" could be interpreted in many different ways. 'Cheom (瞻)' could refer to looking up, staring, or admiring, etc.; 'Seong (星)' could mean a star, heaven, night, etc.; and 'heaven' in that context can be a physical or religious reference. 'Dae (臺)' usually refers to a high platform on which people stand or things are placed. Researchers from the science fields often read 'cheom-seong' as 'looking at stars'; while historians read it as 'admiring the Trāyastriṃśa' or 'adoring Śakra'. Śakra is said to be the ruler of Trāyastriṃśa' who governs the Four Heavenly Kings in the Cāturmahārājika heaven, the first of the six heavens of Kāmadhātu. Śakra is the highest authority of the heavenly kings in direct contact with humankind. This paper examined the usages of 'cheom-seong' in Chinese literature dated prior to the publication of 『Samguk Yusa』, a late 13th century Korean Buddhist historical book that contains the oldest record of the structure among all extant historical texts. I found the oldest usage of cheom-seong (瞻星臺) in 『Ekottara Āgama』, a Buddhist script translated into Chinese in the late 4th century, and was surprised to learn that its meaning was 'looking up at the brightness left by Śakra'. I also found that 'cheom-seong' had been incorporated in various religious contexts, such as Hinduism, Confucianism, Buddhist, Christianism, and Taoism. In Buddhism, there was good, bad, and neutral cheom-seong. Good cheom-seong meant to look up to heaven in the practice of asceticism, reading the heavenly god's intentions, and achieving the mindfulness of Buddhism. Bad cheom-seong included all astrological fortunetelling activities performed outside the boundaries of Buddhism. Neutral cheom-seong is secular. It may help people to understand the nature of the physical world, but was considered to have little meaning unless relating to the spiritual world of Buddhism. Cheom-seong had been performed repetitively in the processes of constructing Buddhist temples in China. According to Buddhist scripts, Queen Māyā of Sakya, the birth mother of Gautama Buddha, died seven days after the birth of Buddha, and was reborn in the Trāyastriṃśa heaven. Buddha, before reaching nirvana, ascended from Jetavana to Trāyastriṃśa and spent three months together with his mother. Gautama Buddha then returned to the human world, stepping upon the stairs built by Viśvakarman, the deity of the creative power in Trāyastriṃśa. In later years, King Asoka built a stupa at the site where Buddha descended. Since then, people have believed that the stairway to the heavens appears at a Buddhist stupa. Carefully examining the paragraphic structure of 『Samguk Yusa』's records on Cheomseongdae, plus other historical records, the fact that the alignment between the tomb of Queen Seondeok and Cheomseongdae perfectly matches the sunrise direction at the winter solstice supports this paper's position that Chemseongdae, built in the early years of Queen SeonDeok's reign (632~647AD), was a gateway to the Trāyastriṃśa heaven, just like the stupa at the Daci Temple (慈恩寺) in China built in 654. The meaning of 'Cheom-seong-dae' thus turns out to be 'adoring Trāyastriṃśa stupa', not 'stargazing platform'.

A Study on Victorian Wedding Dress Design and Making Techniques of America (미국 빅토리안 웨딩드레스의 디자인과 제작기법 연구)

  • Lee, Sang-Rye
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.9
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    • pp.161-176
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    • 2007
  • The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.

The Study on the Tea Ceremony and the Costumes for the Tea Ceremony in Korea - Focusing on Royal Tea Ceremony - (우리나라의 다례와 다례에 관한 복식 - 궁중다례를 중심으로 -)

  • 서옥경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.5
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    • pp.59-70
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    • 2004
  • Tea has influenced the basis of Korean culture in history for a long time. The dissertation aims to establish the history of the costumes for the tea ceremony based upon historical data. During Thee Kingdom Period. there was a ceremony called Tea Offering Ceremony In Silla times, there were Tea Offering Ceremony and Royal Shrine Tea Ceremony: In Corea age, they served Tea Presenting Ceremony: In Chosun age. tea ceremony was a part of Tea Presenting and was held during official greeting feasts for foreign envoys and during feast ceremonies at the court. The costumes for the tea ceremony by period are as fellows : In Corea times, king and all the government officials wore official court attire for Enthronement Ceremony (Ka-Rye). For Official Guest Reception Ceremony (Bin-Rye), king wore official costume, but in case the envoy was not carrying an Official King's Letter, king wore Ordinary Costume. In Chosun times, both king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes (with golden dragon patterned segment) for Envoy Reception Tea Ceremony. In time of royal feast ceremony, king and prince crown wore ordinary costumes of winged silk crowns and royal robes, while queen wore red purple silk robe (red purple embroidered segment). Chosun's royal court occasionally held tea ceremonyat royal feast ceremonies during which king also wore ordinary costume of winged silk crown and royal robe as a costume to attract good fortunes. In case of ceremonies for bad occasions, a tea ceremony was included in Royal Inquisition procedures (joong-hyung-ju-dae-eui) during which king wore simple costume (Pyun-Bok).

A Study on the Sang-Uiwon to Make Royal Attire in Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 상의원의 왕실복식 공급체계 연구)

  • Kim, Soh-Hyeon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.2 s.111
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    • pp.11-28
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    • 2007
  • Sang-uiwon was the bureau of Royal attire in Chosun Dynasty. It had been established in King TAEJO, Chosun Dynasty. The 597 artisans, sorted by 68 types were assigned to Sang-uiwon. The ministry of Taxation[Hojo] and Tribute bureau[Seonhvecheong] had charged of finances of Sang-uiwon. According to the Regular rule of Sang-uiwon, there were five types for finances. The principal income tax[Won Gong] was the assignments of national finance to Sang-uiwon. The materials for the Royal informal dress were offered by usual tributes. The kinds of usual tributes were the tribute for the Royal families' birthday, holidays such as New Year's Day, the fifth day of the fifth lunar month, the harvest festival[Chuseok], and the winter solstice, the tributes for spring and fall, every first day and fifteenth day of the month, an annual tribute, an annual present, and an annual laudatory goods which were the King's presents to His Majesty's lieges. With usual tributes from Sang-uiwon, the Royal informal dress was made by the dressmakers and embroiderers who were Court ladies. The Royal informal dress for the King and the Crown Prince was trousers[Ba JI], shirts[Sam A], jackets[Gua Du], men's gowns[Chul lick], and long vests[Due Grae]. The Royal informal dress for the Queen and the Crown Princess was loose drawers[Dan Ni Ui], long skirts[Chi Ma], shirts[Sam A] and jarkets[Go Ui]. When there were the king's proceeding outside the palace, royal parties, cases of tributes to Chinese, special tributes were offered according to the procedures, like as making letters about the affairs, consulting, and permission. The tributes were also offered by a royal ordinance. According to the kinds of Royal event, the officers of Sang-uiwon procured the Royal costume which were conformed to the Royal etiquette.