Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.7841/ksbbj.2011.26.6.483

Characteristics and Applications of Bioactive Peptides in Skin Care  

Moh, Sang-Hyun (Anti-aging Research Institute of BIO-FD&C Co., Ltd.)
Jung, Dai-Hyun (Anti-aging Research Institute of BIO-FD&C Co., Ltd.)
Kim, Hyoung-Shik (Anti-aging Research Institute of BIO-FD&C Co., Ltd.)
Cho, Moon-Jin (Anti-aging Research Institute of BIO-FD&C Co., Ltd.)
Seo, Hyo-Hyun (Anti-aging Research Institute of BIO-FD&C Co., Ltd.)
Kim, Sung-Jun (Graduate School of Social Education, Sookmyung Women's University)
Publication Information
KSBB Journal / v.26, no.6, 2011 , pp. 483-490 More about this Journal
Abstract
Bioactive peptides (BAP) showed excellent cosmetic activity than bio-materials such as caffeic acid (CA), gallic acid (GA), and nicotinic acid (NA). Caffeoyl tripeptide-1 (CT-1) is a BAP that is stabilized with Gly-His-Lys (GHK) tripeptide and CA by using Fmoc solid phase peptide synthesis. Digalloyl tetrapeptide-19 (DT-19) is stabilized by combining Lys-Glu-Cys-Gly with GA and nicotinoyl tripeptide-1 (NT-1) is synthesized by GHK and NA. According to experiments, CT-1 has an excellent anti-oxidant function even with a very small amount of 10 ppm CT-1. DT-19's tyrosinase inhibition activity has the better effect of about 28.57% in 0.01% and 33.33% in 0.005% of concentration and about 7.89% in 0.001% concentration than vitamin-C. In addition, NT-1 is safer than the NA. Almost BAPs like pal-KTTKS, acetyl hexapeptide, and copper tripeptide-1 have the anti-wrinkle effect while DT-19 and NT-1 are applicable for potential BAPs focused on the whitening effect. The three kinds of BAPs like CT-1, DT-19, and NT-1 consisting of amino acids are safe to the skin, and have more excellent stability than bio-materials which are found to be unstable and cause skin irritation. Due to the high biological activity of BAP in the field of skin care, its utilization will increase constantly.
Keywords
Peptide; Bioactive Peptide (BAP); Anti-Oxidant; Cosmetic; Skin Care;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Mary, P. L. and A. L. Cole (2007) Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol. Ther. 20: 343-349.   DOI   ScienceOn
2 Vlieghe, P., V. Lisowski, J. Martinez, and M. Khrestchatisky (2010) Synthetic therapeutic peptides: science and market. Drug Discovery Today 15: 41-56.
3 Lee, S. K. (1997) Development of recombinant human growth hormone in yeast: efficacy evaluation and safety assessment. Proceedings of the Korean Society of Toxicology Conference. October. Korea.
4 Zhang, L. and T. J. Falla (2009) Cosmeceuticals and peptides. Clinics in Dermatology 27: 485-494.   DOI   ScienceOn
5 Fields, K., T. J. Falla, K. Rodan, and L. Bush (2009) Bioactive peptides: signaling the future. J. Cosmetic Dermatology 8: 8-13.   DOI   ScienceOn
6 Samah, N. H. A. and C. M. Heard (2011) Topically applied KTTKS: a review. J. Cosmet. Sci. 33: 483-490.   DOI   ScienceOn
7 Dellai, A., I. Maricic, V. Kumar, S. Arutyunyan, A. Bouraoui, and A. Nefzi (2010) Parallel synthesis and anti-inflammatory activity of cyclic peptides cyclosquamosin D and Met-cherimolacyclopeptide B and their analogs. Bio. Med. Chem. Lett. 20: 5653-5657.   DOI   ScienceOn
8 Metaferia, B. B., M. Rittler, J. S. Gheeya, A. Lee, H. Hempel, A. Plaza, W. G. S. Stevenson, C. A. Bewley, and J. Khan (2010) Synthesis of novel cyclic NGR/RGD peptide analogs via on resin click chemistry. Bio. Med. Chem. Lett. 20: 7337-7340.   DOI   ScienceOn
9 Richter, S., T. Ramenda, R. Bergmann, T. Kniess, J. Steinbach, J. Pietzsch, and F. Wuest (2010) Synthesis of neurotensin(8-13)-phosphopeptide heterodimers via click chemistry. Bio. Med. Chem. Lett. 20: 3306-3309.   DOI   ScienceOn
10 Grillo, B., D. F. Rabanal, and E. Giralt (2011) Improved Fmoc based solid phase synthesis of homologous peptide fragments of human and mouse prion proteins. J. Peptide Science 17: 32-38.   DOI   ScienceOn
11 Coin, I., M. Beyermann, and M. Bienert (2007) Solid-phase peptide synthesis: from standard procedures to the synthesis of difficult sequences. Nature Protocols 2: 3247-3256.   DOI   ScienceOn
12 Chiara, F., L. Luisa, P. Alessandro, and B. Luisa (2005) Bioactive Peptides from Libraries. Chemistry biology 12: 417-426.   DOI   ScienceOn
13 Valerie, D., N. Pierrick, M. Jean, and L. Frederic (2009) Solventfree synthesis of peptides. Angewandte Chemie 121: 9482-9485.   DOI   ScienceOn
14 Andrey I., L. Liran, M. Amram, A. C. Gregory, F. D. William, M. Mati, L. Binhua, and G. David (2010) Role of the conformational rigidity in the design of biomimetic antimicrobial compounds. Angewandte Chemie 49: 8460-8463.
15 Hartmann, R. and H. Meisel (2007) Food-derived peptides with biological activity: from research to food applications. Cur. Opin. Bio. 18: 163-169.   DOI   ScienceOn
16 Sato, A. K., M. Viswanathan, R. B. Kent, and C. R. Wood (2006) Therapeutic peptides: technological advances driving peptides into development. Current opinion in biotech. 17: 638-642.   DOI   ScienceOn
17 Ioannis, S., F. Demosthenes, V. Katerina, G. T. Andreas, K. Valentinos and B. Evangelos (2010) Cyanobacterial cyclopeptides as lead compounds to novel targeted cancer drugs. Mar. Drugs 8: 629-657.   DOI
18 Osborne, R., L. A. Mullins, and B. B. Jarrold (2009) Understanding metabolic pathways for skin anti-aging. J. Drugs Der. 8: 4-7.
19 Ruiz, M. A., B. Clares, M. E. Morales, and V. Gallardo (2010) Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cosmetic formulations with an anti-aging peptide ($Argireline^{(R)}$). Ars. Pharm. 50: 168-176.
20 Benedetto, A. V. (1998) Environment and skin aging. Clin. Derm. 16: 129-139.   DOI   ScienceOn
21 Amer, M. and M. Maged (2009) Cosmeceuticals versus pharmaceuticals. Clinics in dermatology 27: 428-430.   DOI   ScienceOn
22 Bissett, D. L. (2009) Common cosmeceuticals. Clinics in dermatology 27: 435-445.   DOI   ScienceOn
23 Foldvari, M., S. Attah-Poku, J. Hu, Q. Li, H. Hughes, L. A Babiuk, and S. Kruger (1998) Palmitoyl derivatives of interferon: potential for cutaneous delivery. J. Pharmaceutical Sciences 87: 1203-1208.   DOI
24 Robinson, L. R., N. C. Fitzgerald, D. G. Doughty, N. C. Dawes, C. A. Berge, and D. L. Bissett (2005) Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. J. Cosmetic science 27: 155-160.   DOI   ScienceOn
25 Lee, H. J. (2011) The use of oligopeptides as cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Foreign high-tech research business report, pp. 9. Korean Institute of Science and Technology Information Press, Seoul.
26 Becker-Wegerich, P. M., L. Rauch, and T. Ruzicka (2002) Botulinum toxin A: successful decollete rejuvenation. Dermatologic Surgery 28: 168-171.   DOI   ScienceOn
27 Goldsmith, J., L. Granera, and C. Wolfe (2009) Effects of argireline on EPSP amplitude at the crayfish neuromuscular junction. Pioneering Neuroscience 10: 11-14.
28 Furstenau, A., G. Hazeltine, and M. Miller (2010) The effectiveness of argireline as a synthetic BoNT questioned, as examined in the neuromuscular junction of the procambarus clarkii. Pioneering Neuroscience 7: 7-10.
29 Blanes, M., C. J. Clemente, G. Jodas, A. Gil, G. F. Ballester, B. Ponsati, L. Gutierrez, E. P. Paya, and A. F. Montiel (2002) A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. Int. J. Cos. Sci. 24: 303-310.   DOI   ScienceOn
30 Gutierrez, L. M., S. Viniegra, J. Rueda, A. V. Ferrer-Montiel, J. M. Canaves, and M. Montal (1997) A peptide that mimics the C-terminal sequence of SNAP-25 inhibits secretory vesicle docking in chromaffin cells. J. Bio. Chem. 272: 2634-2639.   DOI
31 Antonio, V. F., M. G. Luis, P. A. James, M. C. Jaume, G. Anabel, V. Salvador, A. B. Jennifer, A. Michael, and M. Mauricio (1998) The 26-mer peptide released from SNAP-25 cleavage by botulinum neurotoxin E inhibits vesicle docking. FEBS Lett. 435: 84-88.   DOI   ScienceOn
32 Luis, M. G., M. C. Jaume, V. F. Antonio, A. R. Juan, M. Mauricio, and V. Salvador (1995) A peptide that mimics the carboxyterminal domain of SNAP-25 blocks Ca2+-dependent exocytosis in chromaffin cells. FEBS Lett. 372: 39-43.   DOI   ScienceOn
33 Maquar, F. X., L. Pickartb, M. Laurentc, P. Gillerya, J. C. Monboissea, and J. P. Borela (1988) Stimulation of collagen synthesis in fibroblast cultures by the tripeptide-copper complex glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+. FEBS Lett. 238: 343-346.   DOI   ScienceOn
34 Gorouhi, F. and H. I. Maibach (2009) Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. J. Cosmetic Science 31: 327-345.   DOI   ScienceOn
35 Yamamoto, I., N. Muto, K. I. Murakami, and J. I. Akiyama (1992) Collagen synthesis in human skin fibroblasts is stimulated by a stable form of ascorbate, 2-O-${\alpha}$-D-Glucopyranosyl-L-Ascorbic acid. J. Nutr. 122: 871-877.
36 Wegrowski, Y., F. X. Maquart, and J. P. Borel (1992) Stimulation of sulfated glycosaminoglycan synthesis by the tripeptide-copper complex Glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine-Cu2+. Life Sciences 51: 1049-1056.   DOI   ScienceOn
37 Pickart, L. (2008) The human tri-peptide GHK and tissue remodeling. J. Bio. Sci. 19: 969-988.   DOI   ScienceOn
38 Lampe, J. W. and J. L. Chang (2007) Interindividual differences in phytochemical metabolism and disposition. Seminars in Cancer Biology 17: 347-353.   DOI   ScienceOn
39 Chen, J. H. and C. T. Ho (1997) Antioxidant activities of caffeic acid and Its related hydroxycinnamic acid compounds. J. Agric. Food Chem. 45: 2374-2378.   DOI   ScienceOn
40 Krizkova, L., M. Nagy, J. Polonyi, J. Dobias, A. Belicova, D. Grancai, and J. Krajcovic (2000) Phenolic acids inhibit chloroplast mutagenesis in euglena gracilis. Mutat. Res. 469: 107-114.   DOI   ScienceOn
41 Shahrzad, S., K. Aoyagi, A. Winter, A. Koyama, and I. Bitsch (2001) Research communication: pharmacokinetics of gallic acid and its relative bioavailability from tea in healthy humans. J. Nutrition 131: 1207-1210.
42 Kroes, B. H., A. J. J. Berg, H. C. Q. Ufford, H. Dijk, and R. P. Labadie (1992) Anti-inflammatory activity of gallic acid. Planta. Med. 58: 499-504.   DOI   ScienceOn
43 Kang, N. J., K. W. Lee, B. J. Shin, S. K. Jung, M. K. Hwang, A. M. Bode, Y. S. Heo, H. J. Lee, and Z. Dong (2009) Caffeic acid, a phenolic phytochemical in coffee, directly inhibits fyn kinase activity and UVB-induced COX-2 expression. Carcinogenesis 30: 321-330.
44 Jung, U. J., M. K. Lee, Y. B. Park, S. M. Jeon, and M. S. Choi (2006) Antihyperglycemic and antioxidant properties of caffeic acid in db/db mice. J. Pharm. Exp. Ther. 318: 476-483.   DOI   ScienceOn
45 Ow, Y. Y. and I. Stupans (2003) Gallic acid and gallic acid derivatives: effects on drug metabolizing enzymes. Current Drug Metabolism 4: 241-248.   DOI   ScienceOn
46 Kubo, I., Q. X. Chen, and K. Nihei (2003) Molecular design of antibrowning agents: antioxidative tyrosinase inhibitors. Food Chemistry 81: 241-247.   DOI   ScienceOn
47 Kubo, I., I. Kinst-Hori, Y. Kubo, Y. Yamagiwa, T. Kamikawa, and H. Haraguchi (2000) Molecular design of antibrowning agents. J. Agric. Food Chem. 48: 1393-1399.   DOI   ScienceOn
48 Kim, Y. J. (2007) Antimelanogenic and antioxidant properties of gallic acid. Biol. Pharm. Bull. 30: 1052-1055.   DOI   ScienceOn
49 Kim, S. H., C. D. Jun, K. H. Suk, B. J. Choi, H. J. Lim, S. J. Park, S. H. Lee, H. Y. Shin, D. K. Kim, and T. Y. Shin (2006) Gallic acid inhibits histamine release and pro-inflammatory cytokine production in mast cells. Toxicological Sciences 91: 123-131.   DOI   ScienceOn
50 Chen, L. G., W. L. Chang, C. J. Lee, and L. T. Lee (2009) Melanogenesis inhibition by gallotannins from chinese galls in B16 mouse melanoma cells. Biol. Pharm. Bull. 32: 1447-1452.   DOI   ScienceOn
51 Gehring, W. (2004) Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. J. Cos. Der. 3: 88-93.
52 Loren, P. (2002) Copper peptides for tissue regeneration. Speciality Chemicals 22: 29-31.
53 Ferruti, P. and R. Paoletti (1978) High polymers containing nicotinic acid, process for their preparation and their use. US Patent 4,067,876.
54 Hakozaki, T., L. Minwalla, J. Zhuang, M. Chhoa, A. Matsubara, K. Miyamoto, A. Greatens, G. G. Hillebrand, D. L. Bissett, and R. E. Boissy (2002) The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Bri. J. Der. 147: 20-31.
55 Nico, S., V. Jana, and P. Stan (2009) The hunt for natural skin whitening agents. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 10: 5326-5349.   DOI   ScienceOn
56 Boonme, P., V. Junyaprasert, B. Varaporn, N. Suksawad, and S. Songkro (2009) Microemulsions and nanoemulsions: novel vehicles for whitening cosmeceuticals. J. Biomedical Nanotechnology 5: 373-383.   DOI   ScienceOn
57 Shen, B., D. M. Makley, and J. N. Johnston (2010) Umpolung' reactivity in semiaqueous amide and peptide synthesis. Nature 465: 1027-1032.   DOI   ScienceOn
58 Youhei, S. and K. Yoshiaki (2006) Click peptides-chemical biology-oriented synthesis of alzheimer's disease-related amyloid ${\beta}$ peptide (A${\beta}$) analogues based on the o-acyl isopeptide method. Chem. Bio. Chem. 7: 1549-1557.   DOI   ScienceOn
59 Han, S. Y. and Y. A. Kim (2004) Recent development of peptide coupling reagents in organic synthesis. Tetrahedron 60: 2447-2467.   DOI   ScienceOn
60 Grillo-Bosch, D., F. Rabanal, and E. Giralt (2011) Improved Fmoc based solid phase synthesis of homologous peptide fragments of human and mouse prion proteins. J. Peptide Science 17: 1075-2617.
61 Sarika, N. and A. E. B. Heather (2010) Cyclic peptides as potential therapeutic agents for skin disorders. Peptide Science 94: 673-680.   DOI   ScienceOn
62 Matsuzaki, K. (2009) Control of cell selectivity of antimicrobial peptides. BBA 1788: 1687-1692.   DOI   ScienceOn