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http://dx.doi.org/10.15230/SCSK.2014.40.4.321

Inhibitory Effect of Fractionated Trapa Japonica Extracts on UVB-induced Skin Photoaging  

Nam, Jin-Ju (Cosmax R&I Center)
Lee, Kyung-Eun (Cosmax R&I Center)
Park, Ji-Eun (Cosmax R&I Center)
Moon, Seong-Joon (Cosmax R&I Center)
Youm, Jong-Kyung (Cosmax R&I Center)
Publication Information
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea / v.40, no.4, 2014 , pp. 321-330 More about this Journal
Abstract
Ultraviolet B (UVB) is a primary environmental factor that induces adverse effects on skin such as photoaging, skin burn and cancer. UVB also increases the expression of $11{\beta}$-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1 ($11{\beta}-HSD1$), which converts inactive cortisone to active cortisol in response to a variety of stressors in target tissues. Thus, we have screened new herbal extracts that suppress $11{\beta}-HSD1$ expression induced by UVB in human dermal fibroblasts. We also investigated whether Trapa japonica (TJ) extract and its fractions inhibit UVB-induced photoaging in Hs68 cells and 3D skin model. Results showed that TJ extract inhibited the increase of $11{\beta}-HSD1$ expression in UVB-exposed Hs68 cells significantly. TJ extract and its fractions not only inhibited $11{\beta}-HSD1$ expression, but also suppressed the increase of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, 3, 9) and proinflammatory cytokines (IL-6, 8) in UVB-irritated Hs68 cells. TJ extract also inhibited MMP-1 expression in UVB-irritated 3D skin model. In addition, TJ extract recovered UVB-induced decreases of epidermal thickness and PCNA-positive cells in 3D skin model. Taken together, these results suggest that TJ extract and its fractions inhibit UVB-induced skin photoaging by interfering with $11{\beta}-HSD1$ and MMPs.
Keywords
Trapa japonica extract; photoaging; 11${\beta}$-hydroxysteroid dehydrogenase type 1; ultraviolet B; matrix metalloproteinases;
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