Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.15230/SCSK.2011.37.1.001

Nanoemulsions: a Novel Vehicle for Cosmetics  

Cho, Wan-Goo (College of Alternative Medicine, Jeonju University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea / v.37, no.1, 2011 , pp. 1-21 More about this Journal
Abstract
This review describes several kinds of emulsification methods for nanoemulsions and the application of nanoemulsions. Nanoemulsion droplet sizes fall typically in the range of 20 ~200 nm and show narrow size distributions. Although most of the publications on either oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil (W/O) nanoemulsions have reported their formation by dispersion or high-energy emulsification methods, an increased interest is observed in the study of nano-emulsion formation by condensation or low-energy emulsification methods based on the phase transitions that take place during the emulsification process. Phase behaviour studies have shown that the size of the droplets is governed by the surfactant phase structure (bicontinuous microemulsion or lamellar) at the inversion point induced by either temperature or composition. Studies on nanoemulsion formation by the phase inversion temperature (PIT) method have shown a relation between minimum droplet size and complete solubilization of the oil in a microemulsion bicontinuous phase independently of whether the initial phase equilibrium is single or multiphase. Due to their small droplet size nanoemulsions possess stability against sedimentation or creaming with Ostwald ripening forming the main mechanism of nanoemulsion breakdown. An application of nanoemulsions is the preparation of nanoparticles using a polymerizable monomer as the disperse phase where nanoemulsion droplets act as nanoreactors, cosmetics and controlled drug delivery. In this review, we mainly focus on the cosmetics.
Keywords
nanoemulsion; nano-particle; cosmetics; application; formation;
Citations & Related Records
Times Cited By KSCI : 2  (Citation Analysis)
연도 인용수 순위
1 S. J. Radford and E. Dickinson. Depletion flocculation of caseinate-stabilised emulsions: what is the optimum size of the non-adsorbed protein nano-particles?, Colloids Surf. A, 238, 71 (2004),   DOI
2 H. Iwai, J. Fukasawa, M. Fukuda, I. Sugai, H. Uchida, and T. Suzuki, Application of liquid crystal to a skin care cosmetics and its properties. J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. Jpn., 30(3), 310 (1996).   DOI   ScienceOn
3 D. Moinard-Checot, Y. Chevalier, S. Briancon, L. Beney, and H. Fessi, Mechanism of nanocapsules formation by the emulsion diffusion process, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 317, 458 (2008).   DOI   ScienceOn
4 S. Tomomasa, M. Kouchi, and H. Nakajima, Microemulsion formation in two-phase region preparation method and stability, J. Jpn. Oil Chemists' Soc., 37, 1012 (1988).   DOI
5 H. M. Haake, W. Seipel, and S. Cornelsen, A Microwax dispersion to condition hair and reduce breakage, Cosmetics & Toiletries, 124(11), 46 (2009).
6 E. Matsuura, A. Noda, Y. Shiojima, T. Ohmura, Y. Nakama, H. Nakajima, M. Yamaguchi, and Y. Kumano, A transparent liquid hair wax made by a novel aqueous nano-dispersion technique, Proceedings XXIst IFSCC International Congress, Berlin, 272 (2000).
7 J. M. Asua, Miniemulsion polymerization, Prog. Polym. Sci., 27, 1283 (2002).   DOI   ScienceOn
8 T. Pan, Z. Wanga, J. H. Xu, Z. Wu, and H. Qi, Stripping of nonionic surfactants from the coacervate phase of cloud point system for lipase separation by Winsor II microemulsion extraction with the direct addition of alcohols, Process Biochem., 45, 771 (2010).   DOI   ScienceOn
9 W. Liu, D. Sun, C. Li, Q. Liu, and J. Xu, Formation and stability of paraffin oil-in-water nano-emulsions prepared by the emulsion inversion point method, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 303, 557 (2006).   DOI   ScienceOn
10 K. Landfester, J. Eisenblatter, and R. Rothe, Preparation of polymerizable miniemulsions by ultrasonication, JCT Res., 1, 65 (2004).
11 C. Puglia, P. Blasi, L. Rizza, A. Schoubben, F. Bonina, C. Rossi, and M. Ricci, Lipid nanoparticles for prolonged topical delivery: an in vitro and in vivo investigation, Int. J. Pharm., 357, 295 (2008).   DOI   ScienceOn
12 Z. B. Zhang, Z. G. Shen, J. X. Wang, H. X. Zhang, H. Zhao, J. F. Chen, and J. Yun, Micronization of silybin by the emulsion solvent diffusion method, Int. J. Pharm., 376, 116 (2009).   DOI
13 O. E. Esposito, M. Drechsler, P. Mariani, E. Sivieri, R. Bozzini, L. Montesi, E. Menegatti, and R. Cortesi, Nanosystems for skin hydration: a comparative study, Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 29, 39 (2007).   DOI   ScienceOn
14 O. Sonneville-Aubrun, J. T. Simonnet, and F. L'Alloret, Nanoemulsions: a new vehicle for skincare products, Adv. Colloid Interface Sci., 108-109, 145 (2004).   DOI
15 A. S. Kabalnov, Modern aspects of emulsion science, ed. B. P. Binks, 212, Royal Society of Chemistry, Cambridge (1998).
16 W. Jahn and R. Strey, Microstructure of microemulsions by freeze fracture electron microscopy, J. Phys. Chem., 92, 2294 (1988).   DOI
17 T. Imae, T. Iwamoto, G. Platz, and C. Thunig, Electron microscopic and light scattering observation on a system with two iridescent phases, Colloid Polym. Sci., 272, 604 (1994).   DOI   ScienceOn
18 H. Kunieda, M. Tanimoto, K. Shigeta, and C. Rodriguez, Highly concentrated cubic-pase emulsions: Basic study on D-phase emulsification using isotopic gels, J. Oleo. Sci., 5(8), 633 (2001).
19 K. Landfester, M. Willert, and M. Antonietti, Preparation of polymer particles in nonaqueous direct and inverse miniemulsions, Macromolecules, 33(7), 2370 (2000).   DOI   ScienceOn
20 N. Uson, M. J. Garcia, and C. Solans, Formation of water-in-oil (W/O) nanoemulsions in a water/mixed non-ionic surfactant/oil systems prepared by a low-energy emulsification method, Colloids Surf. A, 250, 415 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn
21 K. Watanabe, Y. Nakama, T. Yanaki, and H. Hoffmann, Novel vesicle and sponge phase prepared in amphoteric surfactant/anionic surfactant/oleic acid/water system, Langmuir, 17, 7219 (2001).   DOI   ScienceOn
22 A. A. El-Harati, C. Charcosset, and H. Fessi, Influence of the formulation for solid lipid nanoparticles prepared with a membrane contactor, Pharm. Dev. Technol., 11, 153 (2006).   DOI   ScienceOn
23 J. Pardeike, A. Hommoss, R. H. Muller. Lipid nanoparticles (SLN, NLC) in cosmetic and pharmaceutical dermal products, Int. J. Pharm., 366, 170 (2009).   DOI   ScienceOn
24 M. Trotta, F. Debernardi, and O. Caputo, Preparation of solid lipid nanoparticles by a solvent emulsification- diffusion technique, Int. J. Pharm., 257, 153 (2003).   DOI   ScienceOn
25 T. Suzuki, M. Kai, and A. Ishida, Formation mechanism of stable low viscous O/W emulsions containing ethanol: Influence of ethanol concentration during emulsification, J. Jpn. Oil Chemists' Soc., 34, 938 (1985).   DOI
26 T. Suzuki, H. Takei, and S. Yamazaki, Formation of fine three-phase emulsions by the liquid crystal emulsification method with arginine $\beta$-branched monoalkyl phosphate, J. Colloid Interface Sci.., 129(2), 491 (1989).   DOI   ScienceOn
27 P. Izquierdo, J. Feng, J. Esquena, T. F. Tadros, J. C. Dederen, M. J. Garcia, N. Azemar, and C. Solans, The influence of surfactant mixing ratio on nanoemulsion formation by the pit method, J. Colloid Interface, Sci., 285, 388 (2005).   DOI   ScienceOn
28 H. Kunieda and K. Shinoda, Correlation between critical solution phenomena and ultralow interfacial tensions in a surfactant/water/oil system, Bull. Chem. Soc. Jpn., 55, 1777 (1982).   DOI
29 C. Solans, J. Esquena, A. Forgiarini, D. Morales, N. Uson, and P. Izquierdo, Surfactants in solution: fundamentals and applications, Surfactant Science Series, eds. D. Shah, B. Moudgil, and K. L. Mittal, 525, Marcel Dekker, New York (2002).
30 S. Amselem and D. Friedman, Submicron emulsions as drug carriers for topical administration, ed. S. Benita, 153, Harwood Academic Publishers, London (1998).
31 M. D. Alam, L. K. Shrestha, and K. Aramaki, Glycerol effects on the foemation and rheology of cubic phase and related gel emulsion, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 329, 366 (2009).   DOI   ScienceOn
32 M. S. El-Aasser and C. M. Miller, Polymeric dispersions: principles and applications, ed. J. M. Asua, 109, Kluwer Academic Publishers, Dordrecht (1997).
33 M. Antonietti and K. Landfester, Polyreactions in miniemulsions, Prog. Polym. Sci., 27, 689 (2002).   DOI   ScienceOn
34 K. Shinoda, Solution behaviour of surfactants: the importance of surfactant phase and the continuous change in HLB of surfactant, Prog. Colloid Polym. Sci., 68, 1 (1983).
35 M. A. Schubert and C. C. Muller-Goymann, Solvent injection as a new approach for manufacturing lipid nanoparticles-.evaluation of the method and process parameters, Eur. J. Pharm. Biopharm., 55, 125 (2003).   DOI   ScienceOn
36 B. Heurtault, P. Saulnier, B. Pech, J. E. Proust, J. P. Benoit, A novel phase inversion-based process for the preparation of lipid nanocarriers, Pharm. Res., 19, 875 (2002).   DOI   ScienceOn
37 M. Garcy-Fuentes, D. Torres, and M. Alonso, Design of lipid nanoparticles for the oral delivery of hydrophilic macromolecules, Colloid Surf. B, 27, 159 (2002).
38 H. Hoffmann, C. Thunnig, U. Munkert, H. W. Meyer, and W. Richer, From vesicles to the L3 (sponge) phase in alkyldimethylamine oxide/heptanol systems, Langmuir, 8, 2629 (1992).   DOI
39 S. L. Ee, X. Duan, J. Liew, and Q. D. Nguyen, Droplet size and stability of nano-emulsions produced by the temperature phase inversion method, Chem. Eng. J., 140, 626 (2008).   DOI   ScienceOn
40 H. Kunieda, H. Asaoka, and K. Shinida, Two types of surfactant phases and four coexisting liquid phases in a water/nonionic surfactant/triglyceride/hydrocarbon system, J. Phys. Chem., 92, 185 (1988).   DOI   ScienceOn
41 K. Watanabe, A. Noda, M. Masuda, and K. Nakamura, Bicontinuous microemulsion type cleansing containing silicone oil, I, J. Oleo. Sci., 53(11), 537 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn
42 C. Solans, P. Izquierdo, J. Nolla, N. Azemar, and M. J. Garcia-Celma, Nano-emulsions, Curr. Opin. Colloid Interface Sci., 10, 102 (2005).   DOI   ScienceOn
43 M. S. El-Aasser and E. D. Sudol, Miniemulsions: overview of research and applications, JCT Res., 1(1), 21 (2004).
44 P. T. Spicer, Cubosome processing: Industrial nanoparticle technology development, Chem. Eng. Res. Design, 83(A11), 1283 (2005).   DOI
45 K. Y. Kyung, U. K. Jee, and W. G. Cho, Preparation and evaluation of cubic liquid crystalline phase gel and cubosome containing polyethoxylated retinamide, J. Kor. Pharm. Sci., 37(2), 85 (2007).
46 F. Shakeel, S. Baboota, A. Ahuja, J. Ali, M. Aqil, and S. Shafiq, Nanoemulsions as vehicles for transdermal delivery of aceclofenac, AAPS Pharm. Sci. Tech., 8(4), 104 (2007).   DOI
47 B. Sjostrom and B. Bergenstahl, Preparation of submicron drug particles in lecithin-stabilized o/w emulsions, I. Model studies of the precipitation of cholesteryl acetate. Int. J. Pharm., 88, 53 (1992).   DOI
48 K. Bouchemal, S. Briancon, E. Perrier, and H. Fessi, Nano-emulsion formulation using spontaneous emulsification: solvent, oil and surfactant optimisation, Int. J. Pharm., 280, 241 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn
49 S. A. Wissing, O. Kayser, and R. H. Muller, Solid lipid nanoparticles for parenteral drug delivery, Adv. Drug Deliv. Rev., 56, 1257 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn
50 L. Priano, D. Esposti, R. Esposti, G. Castagna, C. De Medici, F. Fraschini, and M. R. Gasco, A. Mauro, Solid lipid nanoparticles incorporating melatonin as newmodel for sustained oral and transdermal delivery systems, J. Nanosci. Nanotechnol., 7, 3596 (2007).   DOI   ScienceOn
51 K. Shinoda and H. Saito, The effect of temperature on the phase equilibria and the types of dispersions of the ternary system composed of water, cyclohexane, and nonionic surfactant, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 26(1), 70 (1968).   DOI   ScienceOn
52 C. A. Miller, M. Gradzielski, H. Hoffmann, U. Kramer, and C. Thunig, Experimental results for the L3 phase in a zwitterionic surfactant and their implications regarding structures, Colloid Polym. Sci., 268, 1066 (1990).   DOI   ScienceOn
53 R. Strey, W. Jahn, G. Porte, and P. Bassereau, Freeze fracture electron microscopy of dilute lamellar and anomalous isotropic (L3) phases, Langmuir, 6, 1635 (1990).   DOI
54 H. Kunieda, K. Hanno, S. Yamaguchi, and K. Shinoda, The three-phase behavior of a brine/ionic surfactant/nonionic surfactant/oil system: Evaluation of the hydrophile-lipophile balance (HLB) of ionic surfactant, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 107(1), 129 (1985).   DOI   ScienceOn
55 E. Matsuura, A. Noda, Y. Shiojima, T. Ohmura, Y. Nakama, H. Nakajima, M. Yamaguchi, and Y. Kumano, A transparent liquid hair wax made by a novel aqueous nano-dispersion technique, Proceedings XXIst IFSCC International Congress, Berlin, 272 (2000).
56 J. Ugelstadt, M. S. El-Aassar, and J. W. Vanderhoff, Emulsion polymerization: initiation of polymerization in monomer droplet, J. Polym. Sci., 11, 503 (1973).
57 J. M. Gutierrez, C. Gonzalez, A. Maestro, I. Sole, C. M. Pey, and J. Nolla, Nano-emulsions: New applications and optimization of their preparation, Curr. Opin. Colloid Interface Sci., 13, 245 (2008).   DOI   ScienceOn
58 K. Watanabe, A. Noda, M. Masuda, T. Kimura, K. Komatsu, and K. Nakamura, Bicontinuous microemulsion type cleansing containing silicone oil. II, J. Oleo. Sci., 53(11), 547 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn
59 T. Suzuki, K. Yoda, H. Iwai, K. Fukuda, and H. Hotta, Studies surface science and Catalysis, Proceedings International Conference on Colloid and Surface Science, 132, 1025, (2001).
60 D. S. Seo, J. C. Kim. H. H. Sohn, W. G. Cho, S. U. Lee, E. Y. Kim, G. Tae, J. D. Kim, S. Y. Lee, and H. Y. Lee, Two-dimensional packing patterns of amino acid surfactant and higher alcohols in an aqueous phase and their associated packing parameters, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 273, 596 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn
61 P. Walstra, Encyclopedia of emulsion technology, ed. P. Becher, 1, Marcel Dekker, New York (1996).
62 J. Floury, A. Desrumaux, M. A. V. Axelos, and J. Legrand, Effect of high pressure homogenisation on methycellulose as food emulsifier, J. Food Eng., 58, 227 (2003).   DOI   ScienceOn
63 S. A. Vitale and J. L. Katz, Liquid droplet dispersions formed by homogeneous liquid-liquid nucleation: The Ouzo effect, Langmuir, 19, 4105 (2003).   DOI   ScienceOn
64 F. Ganachaud and J. L. Katz, Nanoparticles and nanocapsules created using the ouzo effect: spontaneous emulsification as an alternative to ultrasonic and high-shear devices, Chemphyschem., 6, 209 (2005).   DOI   ScienceOn
65 I. Sole, A. Maestro, C. Gonzalez, C. Solans, and J. M. Gutierrez, Optimization of nanoemulsion preparation by low-energy methods in an ionic surfactant system, Langmuir, 22, 8326 (2006).   DOI   ScienceOn
66 H. Arai and K. Shinoda, The effect of mixing of oils and of nonionic surfactants on the phase inversion temperatures of emulsions, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 25(3), 396 (1967).   DOI   ScienceOn
67 K. Shinoda and H. Takeda, The effect of added salts in water on the hydrophile-lipophile balance of nonionic surfactants: The effect of added salts on the phase inversion temperature of emulsions, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 32(4), 642 (1970).   DOI   ScienceOn
68 I. Sole, A. Maestro, C. M. Pey, C. Gonzalez, C. Solans, and J. M. Gutierrez, Nanoemulsions preparation by low energy methods in an ionic surfactant system, Colloids Surf. A, 288, 138 (2006).   DOI
69 K. Ogino, Recent progress of emulsification techniques, Fragrance J., 8, 11 (1998).
70 A. Forgiarini, J. Esquena, J. Gonzalez, and C. Solans, Studies of the relation between phase behavior and emulsification methods with nanoemulsion formation, Prog. Colloid Polym. Sci., 115, 36 (2000).
71 P. R. Sperry, H. B. Hopfenberg, N. L. Thomas, A simple quantitative model for the volume restriction flocculation of latex by water-soluble polymers, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 82(1), 62 (1981).   DOI   ScienceOn
72 W. G. Cho and S. J. Kim, Formation of skin lotions using various vehicles and skin hydration effects for a skin, J. Kor. Oil Chemists' Soc., 26(2), 1 (2009).
73 P. T. Spicer, K. L. Hayden, M. L. Lynch, A. Ofori- Boateng, and J. L. Burns, Novel process for producing cubic liquid crystalline nanoparticles (cubosomes), Langmuir, 17, 5748 (2001).   DOI   ScienceOn
74 P. T. Spicer, W. B. Small, M. L. Lynch, and J. L. Burns, Dry powder precursors of soft cubic liquid crystalline nanoparticles (cubosomes), J. Nanoparticle Res., 4, 297 (2002).   DOI   ScienceOn
75 H. Wu, C. Ramachandran, N. D. Weiner, and B. J. Roessler, Topical transport of hydrophilic compounds using water-in-oil nanoemulsions, Int. J. Pharm., 220, 63 (2001).   DOI
76 R. K. Thakur, C. Villette, J. M. Aubry, and G. Delaplace, Dynamic emulsification and catastrophic phase inversion of lecithin-based emulsions, Colloids Surf. A, 315, 285 (2008).   DOI
77 P. Fernandez, V. Andre, J. Rieger, and A. Kuhnle, Nano-emulsion formation by emulsion phase inversion, Colloids Surf. A, 251, 53 (2004).   DOI
78 A. Forgiarini, J. Esquena, C. Gonzalez, and C. Solans, Formation of nano-emulsions by low-energy emulsification methods at constant temperature, Langmuir, 17, 2076 (2001).   DOI   ScienceOn
79 N. Uson, M. J. Garcia, and C. Solans, Formation of water-in-oil (w/o) nano-emulsions in a water/mixed non-ionic surfactant/oil systems prepared by a low-energy emulsification method, Colloids Surf. A, 250, 415 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn
80 M. Porras, C. Solans, C. Gonzalez, A. Martinez, A. Guinart, and J. M. Gutierrez, Studies of formation of w/o nano-emulsions, Colloids Surf. A, 249, 115 (2004).   DOI
81 K. Shinoda and H. Saito, The effect of temperature on the phase equilibria and the types of dispersion of the ternary system composed of water, cyclohexane, and nonionic surfactant, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 26, 70 (1968).   DOI   ScienceOn
82 H. M. Courrier, T. F. Vandamme, and M. P. Krafft, Reverse water-in-fluorocarbon emulsions and microemulsions obtained with a fluorinated surfactant, Colloids Surf. A, 244(1), 141 (2004).   DOI
83 T. Tadros, P. Izquierdo, J. Esquena, and C. Solans, Formation and stability of nano-emulsions, Adv. Colloid Interface Sci., 108-109, 303 (2004).   DOI
84 S. A. Vitale and J. L. Katz, Liquid droplet dispersions formed by homogeneous liquid-liquid nucleation: 'The Ouzo effect', Langmuir, 19, 4105 (2003).   DOI   ScienceOn
85 F. Ganachaud and J. L. Katz, Nanoparticles and nanocapsules created using the ouzo effect: spontaneous emulsification as an alternative to ultrasonic and high-shear devices, Chemphyschem., 6, 209 (2005).   DOI   ScienceOn
86 J. L. Dickson, C. Ortiz-Estrada, J. F. J. Alvarado, H. S. Hwang, I. C. Sanchez, and G. Luna-Barcenas, Critical flocculation density of dilute water-in-CO2 emulsions stabilized with block copolymers, J. Colloid Interface Sci., 272, 444 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn
87 A. Taden, M. Antonietti, A. Heilig, and K. Landfester, Inorganic films from three different phosphors via a liquid coating route from inverse miniemulsions, Chem. Mater., 16, 5081 (2004).   DOI   ScienceOn