Browse > Article

Development and Prospect of Emulsion Technology in Cosmetics  

Kyong, Kee-Yeol (Cosmetics R&D Center, LG Household & Health Care Research Park)
Lee, Cheon-Koo (Cosmetics R&D Center, LG Household & Health Care Research Park)
Publication Information
Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea / v.32, no.4, 2006 , pp. 209-217 More about this Journal
Abstract
Emulsion is a dispersion system among liquids which are not miscible together. There are numerous cosmetic raw materials which have different physicochemical properties. Therefore, emulsion technology is very useful in cosmetics. With the development of emulsifier, several emulsification technologies have been developed. Since HLB method by Griffin in 1950's, PIT method, gel method, and D-phase methods, etc, have been developed. Recently, the application of natural emulsifier and polymeric emulsifier increases in cosmetics in order to achieve enhanced safety and biocompatibility. Besides nano-emulsion, multiple-emulsion, liquid crystal emulsion, and Pickering emulsion have been developed and applied as means of differentiating appearance and texture of products and achieving enhanced delivery of active ingredients. Meanwhile, the application studies of nano-dispersed structural system such as liposome or cubosome are on progress. Liposome is a bi- or multi-lamella layer dispersion system composed of amhiphilic molecules - phospholipids which are main components of plasma membrane. Cubosome also is a nano-sized dispersion system composed of a specific molecule like glyceryl monoloeate derived from natural products. And it has a cubic bicontinuous structure in water due to its unique molecular structure. Incorporating compounds (active materials) into such nano-particles can increase biocompatibility and delivery efficiency of target compounds. Manufacturing process and application of cosmetic emulsions and nano-particles are briefly introduced in this paper.
Keywords
cosmetic emulsion; emulsification method; liposome; cubosome;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 A. D. Bangharn, M. M. Standish, and J. C. Watkins, Diffusion of univalent ions across the lamellae of swollen phospholipids, J. Mol. BioI., 13, 238 (1965)   DOI
2 G. Rummel, A. Hardmeyer, C. Widmer, M. L. Chiu, P. Nollert, and K. P. Locher, Lipidic cubic phases: new matrices for the three-dimensional crvstalli zation of membrane proteins, J. Stru. Biol., 121, 82 (1998)   DOI   ScienceOn
3 P. T. Spicer and K. L. Hayden, Novel process for producing cubic liquid crystalline nanoparticles (Cubosornes), Langmuir, 17, 5748 (2001)   DOI   ScienceOn
4 B. Biatry, Cosmetic or dermatological composition, EP Patent App. 968704 (2000)
5 J. Schreiber and H. Albrecht, Hair care products with disperse liquid Crystals exhibiting the cubic phases, DE Patent App, 10057769 (2002)
6 T. Okamoto, Recent development and prospect in emulsification technique for cosmetics, Fragrance J. Special Issue, 19, 52 (2005)
7 J. Lee, The latest trends of emulsifiers, Fragrance J. Special Issue, 19, 105 (2005)
8 J. D. Kim and J. H. Jung, Surlace chemistry in biocompatible nanocolloidal particles, J. Soc. Cosmet. Scientists Korea, 30(3), 295 (2004)
9 H. Butt, K. Graf, and M. Kappl, Physics and chemistry of interfaces, 246, Wiley-VCH, Weinheim (2003)
10 D. M. Anderson and H. Wennerstrm, Self-diffusion in bicontinuous cubic phases, $L_3$ phases, and microemulsions, J. Phys. Chem., 94, 8683 (1990)   DOI
11 T. Landh and K. Larsson, Particles, method of preparing said particles and uses thereof, US Patent 5,531,925 (1996)
12 A. Ribier and B. Biatry, Oily phase in an aqueous phase dispersion stabilized by cubic gel particles and method of making, US Patent 5,756,108 (1998)
13 Q. XU and M. Nakajima, The emulsification properties of hydrophilic silica nanoparticles, Fragrance J. Special Issue, 19, 39 (2005)
14 T. Landh, Phase behavior in the system pine oil monoglycerides-poloxamer 407-water at 20$^{\circ}C$, J. Physical Chemistry, 98, 8453 (1994)   DOI   ScienceOn
15 S. Engstrom, K. Alfons, M. Rasmusson, and H. Ljusberg-Wahren, Solvent-induced sponge ($L_3$) phases in the solvent-monoolein-water system, Prog. Colloid Polym Sci., 108, 93 (1998)   DOI
16 K. Ogino, The progress and situation of colloid chemistry, eds. M. Sekine and A Tagawa, 86, Nikko chemicals and Nippon Surfactant Kokyo, Tokyo (1987)
17 D. D. Lasic, Liposomes form physics to application, Elsevier (1993)
18 US Patent 5,531,925 (1996)
19 W. Leesajakul, M. Nakano, A. Taniguchi, and T. Handa, Interaction of cubosome with plasma components resulting in the destabilization of cubosomes in plasma, Colloids and Surfaces, 34, 253 (2004)   DOI
20 Y. Nakama, O/W, W/O type emulsification method using liquid crystals, Fragrance J. Special Issue, 19, 83 (2005)
21 M. Nakano, A. Sugita, H. Matsuoka, and T. Handa, Small-angle X -ray scattering and $^{13}C$ NMR investigation on the internal structure of 'Cubosornes', Langmuir, 17, 3917 (2001)   DOI   ScienceOn
22 B. Biatry, Use of phythantriol as anti-pollution agent in a cosmetic composition, EP Patent App. 1161938 (2001)