Formation of Provitamin- Liquid Crystal with Hydrogenated Lecithin and Its Effectiveness of Moisturizing Activity

Provitamin $B_5$ liquid crystal ($PVB_5$-LC) was the new emulsion system to enhance moisturizing activity on the skin. In this study, it should be mentioned that PVB5-LC could be prepared with the main compound of hydrogenated lecithin (HL) in oil-in water (O/W) emulsion. The key ingredient of humectants was contained 2% of provitamin $B_5$ ($PVB_5$) into the $PVB_5$-LC. The best suitable compositions of $PVB_5$-LC were made from 4.0 wt% of HL, 4.0 wt% of cetostearyl alcohol (CSA) as emulsifier and gelling agent, 3.0 wt% of 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG) and 2.0 wt% of glycerin as moisturizers, 3.0 wt% of cyclomethicone (CMC), 3.0 wt% of isononanoate (ININ), 3.0 wt% of capric/caprylic triglyceride (CCTG), 3.0 wt% of macadamia nut oil (MNO) as emollients. As the analytical result of $PVB_5$-LC, it could know that the distribution range of particle size was 0.14 to 12.37 m level (mean size 3.24 m). It was certified the multi lamellar phase around the droplet of liquid crystal when observed the droplet particles through a polarization microscope. And it clinically was tested the effectiveness of moisturizing activity (in-vivo) compared with control sample (O/W emulsion). The effectiveness of moisturizing activity of $PVB_5$-LC with Skincon-200EX after 6 hours went up 49.0% (p<0.05, n=20) whereas the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of generally O/W emulsion cream was 25.7% (p<005, n=20). Also, in case of Comeometer CM-825, the moisturizing activity of $PVB_5$-LC after 6 hours rose 36.6% (p<0.05, n=20) whereas the effectiveness of moisturizing activity of generally O/W emulsion cream was 10.8%. Therefore, it was known that the effectiveness moisturizing activity of $PVB_5$-LC with HL was remarkably superior compared with O/W emulsion cream.

HL에 의한 프로비타민- 액정의 형성과 보습효과