Effect of Processing Conditions on the Homogeneity of Partially Degummed Silk Evaluated by FTIR Spectroscopy

The partial degumming of silk has recently attracted researchers' attention because of its ability to produce silk textiles with new tactile properties, intermediate between the softness of fully degummed silk and the hardness of raw silk. However, it is difficult to obtain partially degummed silk in a homogenously degummed state due to the heterogeneous character of sericin removal. It is also difficult to examine the homogeneity of degumming. In the present study, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy with attenuated total reflection (ATR) geometry was used to evaluate the effect of processing conditions on the degumming of silk yarns. The crystallinity index, calculated from FTIR spectra, showed an increase with the degumming ratio. Therefore, the homogeneity of degumming could be evaluated by the variation of crystallinity index for 30 different spots in silk yarns. The homogeneity of degumming was influenced by the total degumming time, the content of surfactant, and the liquor rate. No effect was observed upon changing the number of degumming cycles at the same total degumming time.